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Safety question for the Purge B2B v4

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
So i finally got everything together and fired it. Heres the thing im concerned about. Of course its a hybrid. I have a vandyvape bonza and a blitz ghoul rda. If it put either one on flush with the mech deck, I cant close the bottom completely. It leaves a copper ring. But if completely screw the firing switch into the mech, i cant put the rda completely down. What am i supposed to here? Is there supposed to be a copper ring protruding? And is it positive up or down for the Purge? Because i put it positive up and pressed the firing switch without the rda before i put the rda down, and some sparks came out the positive end through the hybrid hole. It left a couple black specs. I hit it several times and it has also already started arcing the battery. Just need some tips about it.
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
So i finally got everything together and fired it. Heres the thing im concerned about. Of course its a hybrid. I have a vandyvape bonza and a blitz ghoul rda. If it put either one on flush with the mech deck, I cant close the bottom completely. It leaves a copper ring. But if completely screw the firing switch into the mech, i cant put the rda completely down. What am i supposed to here? Is there supposed to be a copper ring protruding? And is it positive up or down for the Purge? Because i put it positive up and pressed the firing switch without the rda before i put the rda down, and some sparks came out the positive end through the hybrid hole. It left a couple black specs. I hit it several times and it has also already started arcing the battery. Just need some tips about it.
Definitely dont fire it without the rda on. That's a hard short. That's how batteries vent. . I don't know much about the b2b but I've used plenty of hybrids. Had a small that was too short of a tube for the 26650 battery and I had to split the difference.

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DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
Okay you see, ive never seen that nor have i ever heard that about the hard short before. It was just for a split second. Sparks equal no good. Obviously. I just wanted to know wtf was going on. Thank you very much, seriously. Ill definitely keep that engraved in my mind forever. Im just concerned about the fact that it doesnt completely. Do you want a pic? And also, since it doesnt completely screw down, do i need it tight or loose against the battery? Too loose and itd be a short right? But i dont wanna crush the negative end. Its weird. Id love to know why the slight arcing happened. And also... I dont know if i mentioned it or not, but does the firing switch need to be screwed in completely? Or is it user preference? Isnt that called throw? Nobody has ever told me this nor could i find the answer.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
And actually the b2b v4 is a very large mech. Its quite long. And im using a 21700. Sometimes I called it a 21650 or 21750, but its just because im not used to using them. Its a samsung 30t.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
I know the body of the mech is what comprises the circuit, but i didnt know it could complete the circuit without a point like an rda. I was just trying to get a feel for it. Im glad it gave me a warning like a split second spark.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Whatever you do with a hybrid mech, don't put the battery in before you screw on your atomizer, and don't use an atomizer that doesn't have a protruding 510 pin. The sparks that you mention are proof that you created a hard short like @Wtmke1 said, i.e. they're proof that you could have blown your face off, thereby making your head look similar to (or much worse than) the one that's been engraved onto the B2B V4.

The button not completely screwing in is perfectly normal. It's how they automatically adjust for battery rattle. It also explains why RDAs with a 510 that is longer than usual are going to ruin the aesthetics the way you have described so, if you want the aesthetics to look normal, then the combined length of the 510 connector and the protruding part of the 510 center pin should measure only about 5mm, as is the case with most top quality RDAs also including the Goon, the Kennedy, and the CSMNT, just to name only a few examples that adhere to this, for lack of a better word, "standard" length. The B2B V4 has vent holes around the top so, because the venting disc of a battery is located at the positive (top) contact of the battery, in the B2B V4 you should not put in the battery upside down.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
Well it also looks like it has venting holes in the bottom towards the firing switch. But ive had it positive up, mainly because if a hard short (god forbid) ever happens while vaping ill know from autofire. But that shouldnt be an issue. I'm keeping it above .1 ohm. My batteries are rated for 35 amp cdr. These crazy shopkeepers at the vape shop run high end hybrid mechs at like .08 and .06 with the same battery i have and 26650s... Theyre like awe dude just dont chain vape you'll be fine. Clouds bro clouds. And i admit, i hit it and it was nice, but man im not doing that. They swear up and down cdr means you can fire for 5 minutes straight and nothing will happen, that may be true, but doesnt mean you can make a 50 amp build on a 35 amp battery and pulse fire it till discharged safely... Besides even at .15 i only get like 60 hits maybe less before it drops below nominal voltage. Thank you for the info. But there is 1 more unanswered question. The firing switch. You know how you can take it apart and clean it and replace/adjust the magnets? When you screw that plate back in... Does it matter if its fully screwed in or not?
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
And honestly i like that copper ring towards the bottom. Its a nice touch. I just wanted to make sure it was good. I mean it has constant contact with batteries but still. I have alot of experience with coil building and all the math to maximize the experience... But all ive ever used are regulated. It was sure one hell of a choice to start my dive with mechs with a purge mod... I shoulda just said f it and got a slam piece while i was at it, instead of the b2b.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
No, if a hard short ever happens, then you'll not know from autofire. Autofiring is when your vape setup acts as if you are pressing and holding the fire button despite you are not, i.e. due to the button being stuck or something very similar. A hard short is the leading cause, not to battery venting (streams of burning hot toxic gas escaping under pressure for a short while after the venting disc bursts open, also releasing a bit of tepentine-like thick liquid that's toxic so you have to wash it off of your skin right away should you get it onto your skin), but to thermal runaway (the battery catching on fire, basically turning itself into a rocket engine, and possibly exploding with metal shrapnel flying through the air like a hand grenade or lodging your RDA into your throat or skull before they will take you to the local cemetery).

Among several other highly important things, you need to make perfectly sure the current flow follows the normal path in such a way that it cannot bypass your stable coil build (stable, i.e. the coil doesn't suddenly weld a part of itself onto the deck or onto the inside of the cap or anything like that...), and also verify and make sure that there's no tiny piece of stray metal lurking in a spot where it can create a bridge across the insulator between the positive parts and the negative parts of your RDA... either on the inside of your RDA or on the 510 connector of your RDA that's screwed into the inside of your hybrid mech mod. That's just because a hard short can result in thermal runaway of the battery, i.e. smoke and flames, fires, explosions, shrapnel, firing projectiles like from a real gun.

A coil build at .06 ohms isn't inherently very dangerous or irresponsible use. What makes it unacceptably unsafe is if the user is unaware that, in addition to not chain vaping it of course, there are a few other extremely important safety factors to additionally take also into account. For one, in the possible event that something goes wrong with the mod whilst such a coil build is being used on it, the user needs to react fast and intervene appropriately, safely, before the battery temperature will reach to insane height. Accidental long button presses happening inside your pocket or bag or whilst leaving the mod unattended are yet another recipe for disaster if you don't know what exactly it takes to avoid them. Finally, due to unknown factors that might be at play, we cannot recommend going above the CDR of the battery, to you or anyone else. Remember you are responsible for your own safety.

Staying at or below the CDR doesn't make it safe. But instead, it gives you a bit of that extra safety margin to start and work out all the details about battery knowledge, battery safety and mech safety. So the "just don't chain vape you'll be fine" type attitude is inadequate and totally naive because, especially with a .06 build, you really need to understand certain things like how the duration of your pull and the wait time between pulls affect the temperature of the battery that you select. There's a learning curve. The path doesn't end at or below the CDR. But it certainly doesn't START at .06 ohms.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
As for your question about the button. The magnets are fragile so, because their magnetic force is so incredibly powerful (yes really...), make sure to not let them bump into each other or else they will break. Personally, I, always screw the plate in completely because doing that allows the mod to stand up nice and stable, the plate is slightly recessed so it is better protected against getting it all scratched up, the button throw is kept comfortably short, and TBH it simply just looks a whole lot better that way.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
Thanks for the reply. What i meant was, if i ever have an unoticable nick in my battery wrap, since the postive is facing up, wont it cause autofire through the rda since it would complete the circuit through the nick in the battery?
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
And they keep telling me the 30t can take super sub ohm resistance. But i dont know man like i said imma just stay between .1-.2 right now.
 

derrickfosgate

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yes u will yes you will have some threads showing after you screw in your bottom piece it all depends on how far your 510 on your Atty protrudes no need to screw it tight screw your Addie all the way down with no battery in the mech put your battery in screw the bottom piece until it's snug never put a battery in your mod without the atty on it and hit the fire button here are some pics of my Purge mods none of my bottom switches sit flush also whatever you do do not try to force it to sit flush you will ruin your battery
66a17c00498c2761e89e5ca38cc41da5.jpg
2f5e7963739500e108327c7cd07d0a3f.jpg
3065387c28f27cd6d4e4196451785a2e.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

derrickfosgate

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
And honestly i like that copper ring towards the bottom. Its a nice touch. I just wanted to make sure it was good. I mean it has constant contact with batteries but still. I have alot of experience with coil building and all the math to maximize the experience... But all ive ever used are regulated. It was sure one hell of a choice to start my dive with mechs with a purge mod... I shoulda just said f it and got a slam piece while i was at it, instead of the b2b.
Like these
81f950770b7d261036cb7776a40bdf6b.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Thanks for the reply. What i meant was, if i ever have an unoticable nick in my battery wrap, since the postive is facing up, wont it cause autofire through the rda since it would complete the circuit through the nick in the battery?
It depends on your definition of "unnoticeable". A minuscule hole (the size of a pinhead) in the wrap isn't going to complete the circuit, but the condition of the wrap might continue to deteriorate as it gets torn up around the edges of the hole. If it deteriorates, it will do so gradually until finally it does become noticeable. But if there is an "unnoticeable" small cut in the edge of the wrap that's on the negative (bottom) contact of the battery, then if screwing/unscrewing the button, yes, the button can rub against that and grind itself through that particular weak spot pretty much instantaneously I guess. That's why that particular edge of the wrap is the most critical area. People with normal vision under good lighting conditions will still notice these small cuts excepting only if these people are too negligent to look, though. So if in doubt, just use a magnifier to inspect the wrap.

But if you put the battery upside down, then a torn wrap may result in a hard short causing the risk of going into thermal runaway. Whereas not putting it upside down may result in autofiring, which only becomes truly dangerous if drawing more current than the CDR of your chosen battery in the possible event that autofiring starts whilst the mod is left unattended (and keeps autofiring continuously until finally the battery vents). The key differences here are, 1/ autofiring may still give you a reasonable chance to react and intervene in a timely fashion if it doesn't happen unattended, and 2/ assuming good batteries, will not result in thermal runaway excepting maybe if you are drawing way more current than the CDR of your battery.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
And they keep telling me the 30t can take super sub ohm resistance. But i dont know man like i said imma just stay between .1-.2 right now.
The 30T can take super sub-ohm resistance. But if something goes wrong with the mod, causing the battery to start being discharged continuously, that's when the whole story changes... so basically only if you are advanced enough to know how to prevent it from ever getting discharged continuously all the way down until finally it gets so hot that it vents, and also you limit the duration of your pull (thereby limiting the amount of heat each pull generates inside the battery), and also you give the battery enough wait time between pulls to let it cool back down again, reasonably, so you don't end up torching it. If you notice it starting to get a little warm, just put the mod down. At .1 ohm, the Samsung 30T won't heat up very fast. It can still reach dangerously high temperature if you let it get discharged continuously at .1 ohm, but like I said that's why you should first make sure you know what exactly it takes to prevent it from ever getting discharged continuously. Also, make sure your ohms reader is truly accurate enough to avoid surprises.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
Honestly i have a cheap chinese ohms reader but it says the same thing that my ohmboy rage regulated mod says. So i doubt its innacurate, it may not be DNA but it has a damn good chip... I dunno. Ive been chain vaping the crap outta my purge on some fused claptons at .15... I dont have alot of experience with increasing vapor output with mechs. Can you possibly give me some examples of some cloud chucking builds that also provide better flavor than just regular round wire? I heard just parallel round wire, 24g is great but i mean.... I was building that 2 years ago. But i never used it on a mech. I can perfectly build a few staple variations perfectly. But it doesnt vape well in my purge. Honestly i dunno why i even learned how to do staples... Because my fused claptons taste better to me. Im not interesting in super long pulls, just that in your face, aggressive, super hard hit. Like a 1-2 second strong pull.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
I mean those fused claptons but out vapor on the purge but its actually less than my ohmboy at 100 watts. At 100 watts they chuck hard.
Its nichrome.. 26 gauge dual core, 40 gauge wrap wire, 6 wraps.
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
I have stainless steel... Kanthal. Nichrome. Round wire, ribbon wire, extremely high gauge wire, you name it i got it and can make almost any kind of coil. I just wanna get that purge kicking balls with those hard hits. I wanted to get the slam piece because yknow, it hits hard. I coulda bought it but i decided to save money for now and start with a simple, albeit high quality and expensive, mech. I love it. I just need to get it to that aggresive hit hahaha
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Ni80, 3-core 27/36 aliens at 4.5 wraps 2.5mm ID, dual coil at .11 ohms has been my go to coil build for use in a mech with a single Sony VTC5A or VTC5D or Vapcell gold 30A 3100mAh (20700) or Samsung 20S, the latter battery being the hardest hitting battery among these choices, clearly noticeably. But the Samsung 30T (I have the Vapcell purple 35A 3100mAh 21700, which is a rewrap of the 30T... back at the time the original/non-rewrap Samsung wasn't yet available to me where I live) hits even much harder still so as a result I find that, with this particular coil build, using this particular battery I need to increase the ID to ~2.8mm to tame it or else it has a tendency to scorch my cotton wicks. Mooch has also been getting reports from people confirming the 30T is forcing them to build to slightly higher ohms due to the 30T hitting so much harder than any other cell.
Right now I'm vaping on this setup here: http://vapingunderground.com/threads/post-your-builds.737/page-459#post-2306899
It is a serious tad more aggressive than the aforementioned aliens, also it's a smoother vape, but the flavor performance has roughly the same quality to it. Smooth like a fish, aggressive... that's why I had decided to use it in my Piranha by Comp Lyfe of course. :giggle:

About that B2B V4. I think you are heavily underestimating how hard these things hit, and, possibly also you're forgetting to take into account the fact you can upgrade the firing switch with the, separately sold, silver spring and silver firing pin. In addition to 22 other mods by Purge Mods, I own both the Slam Piece B2 brass and the Enforcer stacked brass cerakoted blood stain including all the silver upgrades (i.e. not only the spring and firing pin, but also the silver plated 510 pin for the Carnage deck... in fact I own six Carnage decks, but anyway...). So many people are so entirely full of shit all the time. :p
 

DeepInTheAbyss

Member For 1 Year
I've recently purchased a B2B V4 and I'd like to know if a B2B V4 is stackable and if so what stack piece would i be looking for exactly?
Yes, I've been using mine for a long time now. I have the stack piece as well. You wanna search up purge 21700 stacked extension. You'll find it by doing that. Just remember that you shouldn't ever go under .2 ohms on a stack. Even .2 is questionable. It depends on your battery. It really wouldn't be pleasant either, too hot. I usually build a .25 ohm coil, 9 wraps, kanthal fused Clapton. 24g. It has great taste and chucks huge clouds.
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
you, most purge allows you to twist the bottom to 'screw in / out' so it sits flush while standing:

Thats a v4 just a couple of twists clock / counterclock wise

IMG_1231.jpg IMG_1232.jpg
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
yup, dont disagree, i'm moving away from Purge for this and a few other reasons

But this b2b & a copper twistd i'm keeping, feels GOOD in the hand, very hefty & hard hitting
You can press on top of the firing pin with your index finger whilst you turn the button's bottom plate by holding your thumb against it to screw it tight enough that it doesn't start to come loose after you take a couple of hits. So as a matter of fact nothing's wrong with the design. Not sure what these "few other reasons" might be, aside from the price maybe... although that's just personal IMO, and also it greatly depends on where you live; I paid 380 Euros for my Green Distressed Viper full setup that also includes the stainless steel Carnage build deck so I can't really complain much. My Ronin Competition Mods US Flag Distressed equipped with the Terk V2 RDA and a TACT5VE drip tip set me back about double that amount, and, solid silver firing contacts from Ronin also are notably more expensive than solid silver firing pins from Purge. The only other reason I can think of why you're moving away from Purge is I'm not selling you my SK 1. :p

SK1.jpg
 
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dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
You can press on top of the firing pin with your index finger whilst you turn the button's bottom plate by holding your thumb against it to screw it tight enough that it doesn't start to come loose after you take a couple of hits. So as a matter of fact nothing's wrong with the design. Not sure what these "few other reasons" might be, aside from the price maybe... although that's just personal IMO, and also it greatly depends on where you live; I paid 380 Euros for my Green Distressed Viper full setup that also includes the stainless steel Carnage build deck so I can't really complain much. My Ronin Competition Mods US Flag Distressed equipped with the Terk V2 RDA and a TACT5VE drip tip set me back about double that amount, and, solid silver firing contacts from Ronin also are notably more expensive than solid silver firing pins from Purge. The only other reason I can think of why you're moving away from Purge is I'm not selling you my SK 1. :p

View attachment 135228
- overpriced, i have three and have owned 5, like the mods but they are overpriced imo, around 50 ~ 150 based on model

- looks, i life a few models, but most of them ~like the one in your pic~ are not to my taste at all

- performance, yeah they hit great, but so does my vindicators & outlaws, heck, i have a copper roundhouse v2 20700 and hits as good as my b2b v4

- they are not high end, they are expensive but not high end for sure, these things are everywhere now.. spending 4 hour in engravings and painting doesnt make it a high end.

- the hipster factor, defining a tube as "My Ronin Competition Mods US Flag Distressed equipped with the Terk V2 RDA and a TACT5VE drip tip" or "380 Euros for my Green Distressed Viper full setup that also includes the stainless steel Carnage build deck" says a lot i dont particularly care for. as a brand they are getting too close to A.V. for my liking

I love mech mods, it's all I use, I just dont care about being snobby for owning this or that one.

thanks you can keep the sk1, that one i particularly dislike
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
- overpriced, i have three and have owned 5, like the mods but they are overpriced imo, around 50 ~ 150 based on model

- looks, i life a few models, but most of them ~like the one in your pic~ are not to my taste at all

- performance, yeah they hit great, but so does my vindicators & outlaws, heck, i have a copper roundhouse v2 20700 and hits as good as my b2b v4

- they are not high end, they are expensive but not high end for sure, these things are everywhere now.. spending 4 hour in engravings and painting doesnt make it a high end.

- the hipster factor, defining a tube as "My Ronin Competition Mods US Flag Distressed equipped with the Terk V2 RDA and a TACT5VE drip tip" or "380 Euros for my Green Distressed Viper full setup that also includes the stainless steel Carnage build deck" says a lot i dont particularly care for. as a brand they are getting too close to A.V. for my liking

I love mech mods, it's all I use, I just dont care about being snobby for owning this or that one.

thanks you can keep the sk1, that one i particularly dislike
Like I already tried to explain, the thing about price tags is always going to be subjective. The Roundhouse V2 is a typical example of a mod that just fails to appeal to me, similar to a Rig or a SOI... they just aren't anything particularly special IMO, and, in that particular price bracket I much prefer the XXX from Vaperz Cloud and also the various tube mech options from Deathwish Modz, but I do like my black Vindicator 21700 a lot and that I use for my daily beater. I don't base my mech buying decisions on performance alone. I just buy what I like is all. I firmly disagree with your stance that Purge aren't typical high end. The exceptional high quality of the design and the machining is tangibIe. I don't own anything made by AV and probably never will, as they just aren't my kind of taste at all. Finally, I find your denominator of "hipster factor" a bit naive TBH. In fact I'm calling it a childish remark, as I'm pretty much the exact opposite of a hipster in every way.
 
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dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Like I already tried to explain, the thing about price tags is always going to be subjective. The Roundhouse V2 is a typical example of a mod that just fails to appeal to me, similar to a Rig or a SOI... they just aren't anything particularly special IMO, and, in that particular price bracket I much prefer the XXX from Vaperz Cloud and also the various tube mech options from Deathwish Modz, but I do like my black Vindicator 21700 a lot and that I use for my daily beater. I don't base my mech buying decisions on performance alone. I just buy what I like is all. I firmly disagree with your stance that Purge aren't typical high end. The exceptional high quality of the design and the machining is tangibIe. I don't own anything made by AV and probably never will, as they just aren't my kind of taste at all. Finally, I find your denominator of "hipster factor" a bit naive TBH. In fact I'm calling it a childish remark, as I'm pretty much the exact opposite of a hipster in every way.

I'm pointing out the reasons I'm moving away from them, those are my personal reason, which may or not be valid to you.

I like plain, straight, preferably cerakoted copper mods better than all the engravings going around. again, personal preference. I DO like the feel & heft of my copper twistd 18650 (better than the copper 20700 twistd I also have here)

Next purchased is a straight vindicator 21700 cerakote copper, didnt know you could order those if you left the request in the order's comment. Basically would have the shape of a b2b v4 although not as massive.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I'm pointing out the reasons I'm moving away from them, those are my personal reason, which may or not be valid to you.

I like plain, straight, preferably cerakoted copper mods better than all the engravings going around. again, personal preference. I DO like the feel & heft of my copper twistd 18650 (better than the copper 20700 twistd I also have here)

Next purchased is a straight vindicator 21700 cerakote copper, didnt know you could order those if you left the request in the order's comment. Basically would have the shape of a b2b v4 although not as massive.
Well yes of course it's all just about personal preferences like I already said (twice). But when people try to suggest that I'm a snob, that's when it no longer is about personal preferences because, then, it's about being an envious fuckass.
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well yes of course it's all just about personal preferences like I already said (twice). But when people try to suggest that I'm a snob, that's when it no longer is about personal preferences because, then, it's about being an envious fuckass.
sorry didnt mean to refer to you, i mean the aura that is being building around the brand itself is not to my liking, in my eyes it's reaching av stuff.

not a personal offense for real. I enjoy the mods, much like i enjoy all other mech mods I have, I just dont think they are 2x or 3x times better than a kennedy or an outlaw

again, I have two twistd, 1 a copper 18650 and a zombie 20700 and a b2b v4 blue cerakote. like them all, very impressed with the heft of the b2b.

had a twistd 20700 chameleon and for $270 dollars this is just not right:

Screen Shot 2019-04-05 at 3.56.56 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-05 at 3.56.41 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-05 at 3.56.34 PM.png

this is from very light use btw

also had a brass slim that i felt hit too weak for my taste compared to other 18650 mods i own. just traded it.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
sorry didnt mean to refer to you, i mean the aura that is being building around the brand itself is not to my liking, in my eyes it's reaching av stuff.

not a personal offense for real. I enjoy the mods, much like i enjoy all other mech mods I have, I just dont think they are 2x or 3x times better than a kennedy or an outlaw

again, I have two twistd, 1 a copper 18650 and a zombie 20700 and a b2b v4 blue cerakote. like them all, very impressed with the heft of the b2b.

had a twistd 20700 chameleon and for $270 dollars this is just not right:

View attachment 135279 View attachment 135280 View attachment 135281

this is from very light use btw

also had a brass slim that i felt hit too weak for my taste compared to other 18650 mods i own. just traded it.
Fair enough, but I never tried to suggest they're that much better. That Twiztid 20700 Stingray in the pic you posted is identical to my Mako excepting only for the color; the Mako's color is less dark and it's greener. I also own the Turbo Stingray stacked and a Twiztid Stingray extension tube, the latter being the matching extension tube for the mod shown in your pic. Neither of both of these two setups have the paint coming off. To me this implies that your Twiztid 20700 Stingray had a production fault, and, if I were you I would have contacted Matthew Kleizo in private about the issue.
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Fair enough, but I never tried to suggest they're that much better. That Twiztid 20700 Stingray in the pic you posted is identical to my Mako excepting only for the color; the Mako's color is less dark and it's greener. I also own the Turbo Stingray stacked and a Twiztid Stingray extension tube, the latter being the matching extension tube for the mod shown in your pic. Neither of both of these two setups have the paint coming off. To me this implies that your Twiztid 20700 Stingray had a production fault, and, if I were you I would have contacted Matthew Kleizo in private about the issue.

i already sold the stingray

what's worrysome is that i got this week the zombie twistd from gadget and the paint is already showing spots of the copper underneath (less than 4 days of use). It's tony here and there but it's there, i'm guessing where's it's going to be in three months.

May have to black cerakote myself with a local certified guy who oes mods for me for 40~50 bucks a pop
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
i already sold the stingray

what's worrysome is that i got this week the zombie twistd from gadget and the paint is already showing spots of the copper underneath (less than 4 days of use). It's tony here and there but it's there, i'm guessing where's it's going to be in three months.

May have to black cerakote myself with a local certified guy who oes mods for me for 40~50 bucks a pop
Sounds like the skin of your hands might be permeated with something abrasive or with a sand-like powdery substance, e.g. mortar or dust from concrete, or stone dust.
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Sounds like the skin of your hands might be permeated with something abrasive or with a sand-like powdery substance, e.g. mortar or dust from concrete, or stone dust.

might be my bad luck, i'm software developer i only thing i use for work are my fingertips :/

also, no issue with any of my cerakote kennedys or rigs
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
might be my bad luck, i'm software developer i only thing i use for work are my fingertips :/

also, no issue with any of my cerakote kennedys or rigs
Of all the Purge Mods that I currently own, 8 are cerakoted brass, one is cerakoted copper; the latter and 2 of the former ones I have used daily for several months. No issue with any of them.
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Of all the Purge Mods that I currently own, 8 are cerakoted brass, one is cerakoted copper; the latter and 2 of the former ones I have used daily for several months. No issue with any of them.

Might be an issue on how the twistd's are painted, i dont think those are cerakoted. The b2b is holding up great

here:

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Yes, I've been using mine for a long time now. I have the stack piece as well. You wanna search up purge 21700 stacked extension. You'll find it by doing that. Just remember that you shouldn't ever go under .2 ohms on a stack. Even .2 is questionable. It depends on your battery. It really wouldn't be pleasant either, too hot. I usually build a .25 ohm coil, 9 wraps, kanthal fused Clapton. 24g. It has great taste and chucks huge clouds.
Aye thanks for the feed back man I'll be taking all those things into account good looking out!
 

PaulS

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Wow. Purges are expensive because the machining overall is very good. The cerakoting is meh but Purge will custom cerakote and they are better. All the Purge switches I've used have that slight gap. Does not bother me at all. It fires beautifully - Purge switches are solid as fvk and that is what counts. Now I'm not a Purge fanboy. I have or have owned Avs, Rogues, Rigs, Complyfes, Glas etc, etc. My beater mod is Vaper Coudz - love their buttons. I have two and a stack.

I buy and trade mods a lot. Nothing much stays in my house for over 6 months unless it is exceptional. And even then I'm open trades. In my house now is one Complyfe, one Purge, three Vapercloudz and a stabwood OG Limitless tube, lol.

I cannot use tubes at work - need to go stealth. And I do enjoy a large mod with a 30mm + tank as much as my mechs. And I squonk. My mod set ups range i price from around 100 to as much as 600 Can. I'm no snob. But I can appreciate a Purge.

Bottom line - buy and use whatever you like. It's all about staying away from the analogs.
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
i'll say this much, havent let go my b2b v4 since i go it, thinking of grabbing a black one, dont care about the 20700 twistd (have had 2), dont much use but love the 18650 copper twistd. got a clone of a slam and love it so may grab one soon

so what i'm using these are kennedys, purges & descendant / outlaws, also loving the Siege mod.

the kennedy switches are imo better than purge but tht's just imo. havent been able to compare each company's CC switches though
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Wow. Purges are expensive because the machining overall is very good. The cerakoting is meh but Purge will custom cerakote and they are better. All the Purge switches I've used have that slight gap. Does not bother me at all. It fires beautifully - Purge switches are solid as fvk and that is what counts. Now I'm not a Purge fanboy. I have or have owned Avs, Rogues, Rigs, Complyfes, Glas etc, etc. My beater mod is Vaper Coudz - love their buttons. I have two and a stack.

I buy and trade mods a lot. Nothing much stays in my house for over 6 months unless it is exceptional. And even then I'm open trades. In my house now is one Complyfe, one Purge, three Vapercloudz and a stabwood OG Limitless tube, lol.

I cannot use tubes at work - need to go stealth. And I do enjoy a large mod with a 30mm + tank as much as my mechs. And I squonk. My mod set ups range i price from around 100 to as much as 600 Can. I'm no snob. But I can appreciate a Purge.

Bottom line - buy and use whatever you like. It's all about staying away from the analogs.
The reason why their cerakoting doesn't suck is simply because, some time before I picked up vaping 2 years and 3 months ago, they had a batch of Head Shot RDAs the black cerakoting on which you could scrape off with nothing more than your fingernail and so a fuck ton of people went into bitch fit mode about that. It means that if your claim was true, a fuck ton of people would be in bitch fit mode right now, but I just don't see that happening so........ and in fact I got my 10th cerakoted mod from Purge yesterday so I think I know fairly well what I am talking about here.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
i'll say this much, havent let go my b2b v4 since i go it, thinking of grabbing a black one, dont care about the 20700 twistd (have had 2), dont much use but love the 18650 copper twistd. got a clone of a slam and love it so may grab one soon

so what i'm using these are kennedys, purges & descendant / outlaws, also loving the Siege mod.

the kennedy switches are imo better than purge but tht's just imo. havent been able to compare each company's CC switches though
About those switches from Purge. Simply replacing the magnets with a solid silver spring already fixed that problem, at least for me, and, thus far, I'm also liking the constant contact switch on my Skull & Shield cerakoted Blood Splatter setup. (I also own the Vindicator 21700 cerakoted black full setup BTW, but I haven't got the constant contact switch upgrade for this one yet.)
 

dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
About those switches from Purge. Simply replacing the magnets with a solid silver spring already fixed that problem, at least for me, and, thus far, I'm also liking the constant contact switch on my Skull & Shield cerakoted Blood Splatter setup. (I also own the Vindicator 21700 cerakoted black full setup BTW, but I haven't got the constant contact switch upgrade for this one yet.)

Yeah definetly going for another vindicator myself. the CC is 62 on its own, but only +20 if you order a vindicator

gonna go for cerkote copper straight tube (available if you leave it in the order's comments) + CC Switch in raw copper, much like you see in my avatar but straight tube

Screen Shot 2019-04-10 at 8.46.41 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-10 at 8.46.48 PM.png
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Yeah definetly going for another vindicator myself. the CC is 62 on its own, but only +20 if you order a vindicator

gonna go for cerkote copper straight tube (available if you leave it in the order's comments) + CC Switch in raw copper, much like you see in my avatar but straight tube

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I'm not actually even sure if I'll ever get the constant contact switch upgrade for my Vindicator 21700. I live across the pond in a country where online sales of vaping products to consumers is illegal, and, with the stock button on my Vindicator 21700, arcing is pretty minimal.

Vindicator.jpg
 

CashNVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
sorry didnt mean to refer to you, i mean the aura that is being building around the brand itself is not to my liking, in my eyes it's reaching av stuff.

not a personal offense for real. I enjoy the mods, much like i enjoy all other mech mods I have, I just dont think they are 2x or 3x times better than a kennedy or an outlaw

again, I have two twistd, 1 a copper 18650 and a zombie 20700 and a b2b v4 blue cerakote. like them all, very impressed with the heft of the b2b.

had a twistd 20700 chameleon and for $270 dollars this is just not right:

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this is from very light use btw

also had a brass slim that i felt hit too weak for my taste compared to other 18650 mods i own. just traded it.
I've had my purge viper for a month or more and the paint is not wearing down.
You should hit up fasteddies

Sent from Amchitka
 

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