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Sigelei 150w.24g Kanthal. Dual Coil Build Problems =/

Hello all! Im new here.

My name is Josh, and Im an O level Aircraft mechanic, that enjoys tinkering with things. Which is why I originally started building mods. I've had a lot of issues with clones and finally decided to get an original Sigelei 150w. Previously I've had the vape shop in San Clemente build coils for me, but this also costs extra money. When I can just do it myself. Im going to give you the most information possible to help solve my issue.

Currently, I am running a Dual Coil build. I tried to find a similiar post, to mine. But it seems that each one is unique, and different depending on the individual's setup.

I have 4 posts on my atomizer. Which is the Mutation X V3
They look like this and ill be using this reference to help build the best picture of my issue.

"1.23.4"

I am running a 24g Kanthal wire, with 10 wraps, around a 3mm screwdriver.(As instructed by local shop) With the following:

Coil 1: Connected to posts 1/3
Coil 2: Connected to posts 2/4

Currently, as of today my mod is at 6.6v-7.5v 1.5 Ohms @ 40.6w This seems ridiculously high to me, which lead me here.

My Battery info is the following:

Manufacturer: NXJO
IMR: 18650
Volts: 3.7v
MAH: 2500
35A

This is a married pair.

For wicking I am using Organic Japanese cotton, I am also not over stuffing my coils.


My question is, what is wrong here?

Do I need to rebuild my coils? If so, how many wraps @ 24g (Kanthal)/What size coils? 3mm 2mm ect.

Do you need pictures? I can provide those as well.

I just dont have a good feeling about what the output on my vape is telling me. Im an O level mech, I feel like I should be able to figure this out, but vapes are foreign to me. I use 3mg Juice as well 90/10 VG/PG.

I just enjoy making large clouds more than I do the actual nicotine. I'd like to cloudchase as much as possible

But i want to be able to do so safely, without blowing my hand off. Until this issue is resolved, I've currently taken the batteries out of my Vape for safety reasons.

My goals with this mod are, thick clouds, minor throat hit. I don't need the high nicotine content that some other users do. This is also becoming a hobby for me.
Its funny sometimes, that you can fix an airplane. But you cant fix a metal box. Haha

I will be doing my wraps by hand as well, unless another user has a better suggestion.

STEAMENGINE Recommends 0.347 Ohms, as the sweet spot.

Thank you for your help.
 

BigNasty

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
OK....
First off tear that over done build out of that poor muty... now unscrew and clean the whole thing.
After that is done try a dual set up with just 6-7 wraps each make sure it is not touching the afc... go center line close to posts.
Should net you about .30ish ohms or so.
 
^ oh man, did the shop give me some bum ass information? I really did feel like 10 was too much

Should i stick with 3mm @6-7 wraps?
 

OBDave

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yep, I'd stick to 6/7 wraps at 3 mm inner diameter. One thing I've found helpful with my Mutations is to slightly elevate the coils to get plenty of airflow to them/directly under them. This is a build I ran for some time on my Mutation X v3 on a Sig 100 box at around 60 watts with no issues - now using dual 26g twisted wire instead of straight 24g in a quest for better flavor...
 
Okay! since its regulated im not too worried about box blowing up on me, but still i was worried, Im going to give this build a shot tomorrow. Ill probably stick to 7 wraps just to err on the safe side.

Do you recommend 6?

Or is 7 the safest route.
 

OBDave

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Try 7 first - do you have an ohm meter or multimeter to double-check the resistance? My Sig is pretty good with the built-in one, but I always double check before installing new builds.

That said, the regulated factor is definitely your friend as a new builder...
 
I Dont have 1 =/ shitty. i cam use one at work probably. im gonna try 7 when i get home, and see what the box says
 

OBDave

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If you're going to get into building, it's money well spent at only $15 or so:

http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/cartomizer-and-atomizer-ohm-meter

Also, you may have better luck cranking the wattage up - I find I've got horrendous lag time heating up much below 45 watts, and I generally run in the 50-60 range...just make sure before you put the cap on there's no chance the coils will make contact once it's installed.
 
currently sitting at 0.3 Ohms, but the coils arent that pretty. How do you guys make yours? im currently wrapping by hand.
 

OBDave

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
@UncleRJ - I thought those MXJO batteries were a rewrapped 20A masquerading as 35A - in other words, on par with the Samsungs and LGs. I could certainly be wrong, though, as I've never used them...might be something to look into.

@Josh Lego - there are a ton of different types of 18650 batteries out there, what you need to be concerned with is the continuous amp rating, which should be 20 or higher. MXJO and Efest are a couple of companies that are pretty suspect in the vaping world because they don't actually produce product but re-wrap others' products with misleadingly high amp ratings, usually citing the "pulse" or "burst" rate as a level that's safe to use continuously. Samsung and LG are currently the only know, reliable battery source, though there are still some old Sony VTC3 and VTC4 series batteries floating around that go to 30A (most are unfortunately counterfeits). While I wouldn't use a MXJO and would advise going with one of the more reliable brands next time, I believe that you'll be safe in a regulated, dual-battery mod like the Sig 150 - I still have some of the Efest purples claiming 35A (they're also really only rated to 20A) that have worked for me so far, though I won't be buying them again.

For wrapping, I'm partial to the Kuro Coiler, having tried both that and the CoilMaster - both easy, idiot-proof ways to wrap clean coils. But I started out wrapping around a drill bit and eventually learned to do just fine with those. There's a guy around here by the name of @MacTechVpr who has some really good info on basic coiling technique - he calls it the "tension coil." I'd recommend looking up his posts and reading up on that to learn how to build reliably without a special tool (which didn't even exist until a few months ago)...
 

MacTechVpr

Bronze Contributor
Member For 5 Years
For wrapping, I'm partial to the Kuro Coiler, having tried both that and the CoilMaster - both easy, idiot-proof ways to wrap clean coils. But I started out wrapping around a drill bit and eventually learned to do just fine with those. There's a guy around here by the name of @MacTechVpr who has some really good info on basic coiling technique - he calls it the "tension coil." I'd recommend looking up his posts and reading up on that to learn how to build reliably without a special tool (which didn't even exist until a few months ago)...

Thanks for the nod OBD. There's a difference between form and function. And the two aren't mutually exclusive. Over on ECF super_X_drifter introduced the contact coil two years back and it revolutionized vaping. The importance of the adaptation is that compact precise proximity enhances output as every cloud blower knows. Takes a lot of wire and power to do it otherwise and its unavoidably then a high temperature vape. I introduced the mechanics of strain, how to use it to stabilize resistance through uniform adhesion (closest contact) in the oxidation of coils. This maximizes transfer phase efficiency. No mechanical forming device or method in vaping does that. And using other adaptations of strain and leverage can show a totally green builder how to produce a build in perfect symmetry within 5-minutes. Usually takes me about an hour for the demo.


IMG_1191a.jpg


Little history lesson. A true functional oxidized micro circuit does not fire inside out. When adequately oxidized electron flow stabilizes and the better that insulation the better heat flux is equalized across the length of the wind. However, if no one credited MacTechVpr for this, refered folks as you did, then readers never discovered that electron flow should stabilize. So understand my amusement and concern over the last couple of years reading and watching thousands of accounts and videos on what a microcoil is by folks who were never clued in on the secret (physics). And it's no wonder then so many think microcoils don't work, spaced winds are better and that they cook juice at center. Folks passed on the contact coil without understanding its definition or purpose.

These developments though did open the door to a lot of commercial opportunity for the industry. They sold us a shitload of drippers and mods. But it don't mean a thing OBD because that's not where vaping is going. Convinced of that this week. Today they trip over a dollar to pick up a dime, capitalize on incomplete knowledge with things like coilers which don't deliver on a coil's potential for a really great vape. And there's really not much that you or I are gonna be able to do about it I'm afraid. They've got us all diced up like a cored apple fighting with each other on preferences and pretty, over facts.

Good luck, vape on bro. and read up on what you can, while you can.

:)
 
Last edited:

OBDave

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks for the nod OBD. There's a difference between form and function. And the two aren't mutually exclusive. Over on ECF super_X_drifter introduced the contact coil two years back and it revolutionized vaping. The importance of the adaptation is that compact precise proximity enhances output as every cloud blower knows. Takes a lot of wire and power to do it otherwise and its unavoidably then a high temperature vape. I introduced the mechanics of strain, how to use it to stabilize resistance through uniform adhesion (closest contact) in the oxidation of coils. This maximizes transfer phase efficiency. No mechanical forming device or method in vaping does that. And using other adaptations of strain and leverage can show a totally green builder how to produce a build in perfect symmetry within 5-minutes. Usually takes me about an hour for the demo.


View attachment 19263


Little history lesson. A true functional oxidized micro circuit does not fire inside out. When adequately oxidized electron flow stabilizes and the better that insulation the better heat flux is stratified across the length of the wind. However, if no one credited MacTechVpr for this, refered folks as you did, then readers never discovered that electron flow should stabilize. So understand my amusement and concern over the last couple of years reading and watching thousands of accounts and videos on what a microcoil is by folks who were never clued in on the secret (physics). And it's no wonder then so many think microcoils don't work, spaced winds are better and that they cook juice at center. Folks passed on the contact coil without understanding its definition or purpose.

These developments though did open the door to a lot of commercial opportunity for the industry. They sold us a shitload of drippers and mods. But it don't mean a thing OBD because that's not where vaping is going. Convinced of that this week. Today they trip over a dollar to pick up a dime, capitalize on incomplete knowledge with things like coilers which don't deliver on a coil's potential for a really great vape. And there's really not much that you or I are gonna be able to do about it I'm afraid. They've got us all diced up like a cored apple fighting with each other on preferences and pretty, over facts.

Good luck, vape on bro. and read up on what you can, while you can.

:)
Thanks for popping in to expand my knowledge base a bit, as well as the OP's, hopefully. I'm thinking I ought to revisit some of your work, put down the lazy man's coiling tool and wrap some up in the way you've prescribed to see if there's really a noticeable dropoff in quality with the tool...
 

MacTechVpr

Bronze Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Thx again. PM me if you can't run down the description here on how to start your first wind. Done simply those first few winds and you will gain the motor memory to detect when the wire hits adhesion (closest proximity). That's where "sticky" lives and you get a coil that wants to be a coil. Second aspect is pulsing to uniform oxidation which is expedited by the close contact and the whole goal of making a micro, the resistance stability and optimization that brings.

Good luck OBD.

:)
 

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