Single vtc4 under .1ohm mech?

[kennykoils]

Okay I know it's kind of taboo and whatnot. Not posting to get bashed, but who can say they run their vtc4 battery in a tube mod under .1 ohm and what's it like, I've got a .11 dual parallel 24 ga build in my kennedy on my SMPL mech and i only use authentic vtc4 batteries.. This is an all day build and my mod/button never get hot, I'm wondering how low people actually vape these at. Thanks

 

[kennykoils]

Wondering how conservative the amp ratings are for the vtc4 battery, I've been into mechs and building for awhile, all of my builds are between .1 and .2, usually landing right around .14-.17 but I got some 316l elite and want to build real low just wondering who has real life experience with it

 

[raymo2u]

I wouldnt advise anyone building to go lower then .1 on a single 18650...Ive done it but Im a jackass so dont follow my lead.
I suggest you pick up a Parallel Box, most can be had for around $30-$40 and it gives you headroom and more safety then a single 18650 Tube.

 

[Pancho_Brown]

I agree. Even though there are people doing it, I highly recommend that you dont. It just asking for to much trouble pushing a single battery like that.

 

[Slurp812]

Hmm. OK Ill bite. Its not taboo to me. Its just not the smartest thing to do. I can drive 90 mph to work every day, and most days likely make it unscathed. But its not safe. Realistically speaking , your only a little over 100 watts. Assuming the build were exactly 0.11 ohms , it would go something like this. You might get ~3.6 volts on a fresh battery when you press the button. You'd add ~ 0.01 ohms just for connections, and the mod itself. So we use 3.6 volts, and 0.12 ohms. That's 30 amps, and 108 watts. Maybe the first time you press the button when the battery is hot off the charger, it may be a bit more. Im a regulated mod guy myself. You can easily and consistently get that power from a regulated mod. Please be careful. Check the mod and topper every time you take it apart, and don't short the battery out.

 

[raymo2u]

One of the reasons I just bought a Tres Equis and HOG V1 Mod...

 

[robot zombie]

The sag on a single battery trying to power a super-sub is going to be ridiculous. Basically, what it amounts to is running your battery right into the ground just to waste a bunch of power. It's not just that going too low strains the batteries - they are physically incapable of adequately and effectively powering something with that much current draw.

It's an inferior method that's stupid on two levels. Not only is it dangerous, but pointless as well. There is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to current draw and voltage sag.

You will get a better vape running something that the battery isn't struggling to power. Seriously! Lower does not equal better. It doesn't even necessarily mean all that much more power in some cases. If you want to super sub, you can do like raymo2u suggested and get a parallel box or better yet, get a regulated box mod that can go that low. Two that come to mind are the IPV5 and the Hohmwrecker G2.

 

[raymo2u]

The sag on a single battery trying to power a super-sub is going to be ridiculous. Basically, what it amounts to is running your battery right into the ground just to waste a bunch of power. It's not just that going to low strains the batteries - they are physically incapable of adequately and effectively powering something with that much current draw.

It's an inferior method that's stupid on two levels. Not only is it dangerous, but pointless as well. There is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to current draw and voltage sag.

You will get a better vape running something that the battery isn't struggling to power. Seriously! Lower does not equal better. It doesn't even necessarily mean all that much more power in some cases. If you want to super sub, you can do like raymo2u suggested and get a parallel box or better yet, get a regulated box mod that can go that low. Two that come to mind are the IPV5 and the Hohmwrecker G2.

Forgot the Snow Wolf, Laisimo L1 and Xcube2

 

[raymo2u]

Safe and still lower then most builds...

 

[vap3r]

...316l elite ...build real low... who has real life experience with it

I run single tube mechs as low as 0.1 with HB2/HB4/HB6 (I have four of each). This is only on cells with low IR (versus brand new and unused stock) as verified with a Hitec X2 AC Plus (RC charger) and a dedicated ESR meter. Also, periodically verify that your cells are holding capacity (charge/discharge cycle) and voltage (DVM/DMM). With IR and capacity numbers in hand, you can calculate a true C rating for a cell which you can then use to make an informed decision on how hard you want to push it (lower IR + higher capacity = lower risk).



Like raymo2u, builds under 0.1 are typically reserved for triple parallel mechs such as the Tres Equis LE ...

 

[JERUS]

The sag on a single battery trying to power a super-sub is going to be ridiculous. Basically, what it amounts to is running your battery right into the ground just to waste a bunch of power. It's not just that going too low strains the batteries - they are physically incapable of adequately and effectively powering something with that much current draw.

It's an inferior method that's stupid on two levels. Not only is it dangerous, but pointless as well. There is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to current draw and voltage sag.

You will get a better vape running something that the battery isn't struggling to power. Seriously! Lower does not equal better. It doesn't even necessarily mean all that much more power in some cases. If you want to super sub, you can do like raymo2u suggested and get a parallel box or better yet, get a regulated box mod that can go that low. Two that come to mind are the IPV5 and the Hohmwrecker G2.

To add to this, IMO lowering resistance doesn't do a whole hell of a lot on it's own. On mech mods it's what creates higher wattage so it's "necessary" to a point. But grab a regulated mod and it's simply not needed or really helping much at all. Now some great builds simply come out low on their own, Raymo's build above is a good example, I mean look at that surface area, it's going to vape great, but it's not because of the resistance but because of the design. and shape.

Anyways to the OP, the VTC4 is a strict 30amp cell, do not push it, it's not one that will treat you well if you do. If you want to push a 30amp limit grab the HB2s, they have low mAHs but they'll be able to handle stupidity far better (not trying to call you stupid as much as the actions of pushing batteries, which I do, but I recognize my own stupidity in it).

If you're set on a tube mech, stick to .14Ω or higher and you should be good with the VTC4s though I'd still suggest HB2s (or any of the HB series).

 

[Zamazam]

I allow a 10% head room in my builds. With a 30 amp battery, I will never build below a 27 amp draw. This is safe and it is prudent. Learn and love Ohm's law.

 

[JERUS]

Okay I know it's kind of taboo and whatnot. Not posting to get bashed, but who can say they run their vtc4 battery in a tube mod under .1 ohm and what's it like, I've got a .11 dual parallel 24 ga build in my kennedy on my SMPL mech and i only use authentic vtc4 batteries.. This is an all day build and my mod/button never get hot, I'm wondering how low people actually vape these at. Thanks

It's not taboo, it's dumb. That's not meant as a bashing as I do dumb things too, just realize you're being dumb and be careful. Personally when I do dumb things I do it alone, the last thing I want is someone else hurt for my mistakes.

Anyways, I couldn't help but say that stuff, it needs to be said. I've run close to that on a single battery before and came out ok, I'm going to leave the warnings alone and assume you know ohm's law and the math and all that, you do what you want.

My comment is more, are you just using strait 24g builds? If so, I'd suggest looking into some of the more advanced coil types. At the very least parallel, but moreso try zipper, and if you're up for it fused claptons and maybe alien/staples. Doing all of these in more safe settings will still net you a far better vape, push them and yeah it'll improve on a mech. Surface area is the name of the game. The more wire touching the wick the better. And the more space inside the coil for juice to seep into the better. This is why things like claptons, staples, and multicores are so good.

All that said, again to safety, I'd invest in some HB series batteries, while the VTC4's run 30amp they are pretty strictly set at that. They don't get pushed very well. Just something to consider.

Anyways, GL.

 

[raymo2u]

View attachment 43398

Like raymo2u, builds under 0.1 are typically reserved for triple parallel mechs such as the Tres Equis LE ...

View attachment 43399

Damn You! Your making me impatient waiting for mine!

 

[OBDave]

When I was a mech user, I always considered my battery at its' full 4.2v potential and the continuous rating of my battery - I figured that voltage drop might offset any potential inaccuracy in my multimeter and give me a bit of a safety buffer.

That said, 0.11 resistance would draw 38.19 amps from a fully-charged battery, well beyond the limits of the VTC4 (or any battery known to man). That's considering that your method of testing resistance is perfect, and that there's no chance you're off by a couple hundredths.

"All I wanted was a Pepsi. Just one Pepsi. And she wouldn't give it to me!" - Suicidal Tendencies

 

[JERUS]

When I was a mech user, I always considered my battery at its' full 4.2v potential and the continuous rating of my battery - I figured that voltage drop might offset any potential inaccuracy in my multimeter and give me a bit of a safety buffer.

That said, 0.11 resistance would draw 38.19 amps from a fully-charged battery, well beyond the limits of the VTC4 (or any battery known to man). That's considering that your method of testing resistance is perfect, and that there's no chance you're off by a couple hundredths.

"All I wanted was a Pepsi. Just one Pepsi. And she wouldn't give it to me!" - Suicidal Tendencies

I always use the full 4.2v for safety, and then use 3.7 for figuring out what I should expect from the vape (wattage for instance).

 

[OBDave]

Merging dupe threads, apologies if the result is a bit confusing...

 

[OBDave]

I always use the full 4.2v for safety, and then use 3.7 for figuring out what I should expect from the vape (wattage for instance).

That's a nice way of looking at it from a practical use standpoint - for safety's sake when talking with new users I tend to focus more on the maximum/worst case than the average, though.

 

[Slurp812]

When I was a mech user, I always considered my battery at its' full 4.2v potential and the continuous rating of my battery - I figured that voltage drop might offset any potential inaccuracy in my multimeter and give me a bit of a safety buffer.

That said, 0.11 resistance would draw 38.19 amps from a fully-charged battery, well beyond the limits of the VTC4 (or any battery known to man). That's considering that your method of testing resistance is perfect, and that there's no chance you're off by a couple hundredths.

"All I wanted was a Pepsi. Just one Pepsi. And she wouldn't give it to me!" - Suicidal Tendencies

Its good to have a safety margin. But you'll never see anywhere near 4.2 volts under load. It's also be difficult to accurately measure 0.1 ohms. Down this low there is a difference between 0.11 and 0.09 ohms. Enough so that it could be an issue. Please be careful!!!

 

[OBDave]

Its good to have a safety margin. But you'll never see anywhere near 4.2 volts under load. It's also be difficult to accurately measure 0.1 ohms. Down this low there is a difference between 0.11 and 0.09 ohms. Enough so that it could be an issue. Please be careful!!!

The second part of your statement is justification for the 4.2 buffer in the first. Sure you're not going to hit 4.2 in actual use, but I'm just as sure most people are using cheap $10 ohm meters (if they're using them at all), making the potential for disaster much higher. Thus, I'll continue to recommend building considering your battery's max potential, not some guess as to where you are after voltage drop and sag.

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

 

[Slurp812]

The second part of your statement is justification for the 4.2 buffer in the first. Sure you're not going to hit 4.2 in actual use, but I'm just as sure most people are using cheap $10 ohm meters (if they're using them at all), making the potential for disaster much higher. Thus, I'll continue to recommend building considering your battery's max potential, not some guess as to where you are after voltage drop and sag.

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

Safety is very important.