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So little discussion of Yihi SxMini M class and other boards like SX350???

Powerman

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The Hcigar Vt200 is a really nice DNA 200 mod too and you can get them for $150. Its super light, feels good in the hand, it built well and has a 1300 lipo instead of the VaporShark 900 one. The only drawback for the Hcigar over the VaporShark is that if you want to change batteries, you have to unscrew the battery compartment instead of having a magnetic battery door. But personally, i wouldn't change the batteries on a regular basis with either one since there's too much of a change of pulling the wires from the connectors on either device.

the vt200 also comes with a 1 year warranty
That's me too. I would not want to put wear and tear on the connectors. Thats what made me curious... why put magnets on a mod you don't really change the battery? You can put holes to vent. I would be fine with screws.
 

Powerman

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Oh... and as far as the discussion... I discussed it for about 5 minutes and pulled the trigger on a SX mini. I'll probably get it long before my DNA200 mod. I'm hoping by Saturday isn't too optimistic.
 

fq06

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Just updated. So they stuck another menu item (coil select) between changing temp and exit :confused:

Why not 5 clicks, temp change menu, 1 click to exit menu then up/down button?
Joules shouldn't be 1st, that's easily accessed on the home screen.
Temp, then exit and whatever you want in whatever order after that because 99% of the time we go into the sub menu it is to change temp to dial in a new atty or juice.
Why make us feel like we are in a provari menu with 9 clicks just to adjust voltage?

I thought for sure someone would have figured out that we use temp more than anything and temp then exit would be the most efficient. Move temperature F/C out of the way (now add coil select), change that often?o_O
 

Vlad1

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Just updated. So they stuck another menu item (coil select) between changing temp and exit :confused:

Why not 5 clicks, temp change menu, 1 click to exit menu then up/down button?
Joules shouldn't be 1st, that's easily accessed on the home screen.
Temp, then exit and whatever you want in whatever order after that because 99% of the time we go into the sub menu it is to change temp to dial in a new atty or juice.
Why make us feel like we are in a provari menu with 9 clicks just to adjust voltage?

I thought for sure someone would have figured out that we use temp more than anything and temp then exit would be the most efficient. Move temperature F/C out of the way (now add coil select), change that often?o_O

Have you been running Ver 1.4? Or are you confusing the M class with the S class?

Coil Select has been there for a long time. As to the menu ordering not everyone uses their devices the same. Some want to adjust temp all the time others want t adjust power or joules all the time. Some want to do it without entering the menu system some want to do it while they're making other changes within the menu system. Tomatto Tomotto

Edit: To clarify and add to what I said "Coil Select" was added back when they added Ti support so you could change between Ni200 or Ti01. With this last update Ver. 2.32 they've added an additional selection under Coil Select of Manual TCR so you can input any TCR you like for whatever wire you may be using. And yea for me I do change it a lot right now with three tanks running Ni200, 304SS & Ti in my rotation.
 
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fq06

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Yeah, never updated to the Ti firmware. Makes sense that was there to select Ti.

Makes sense that joules is on the home screen since in power mode you have watts on the home screen and there's probably something shared between the two modes when they wrote the firmware.

But if you have joules on the home screen, why have joules your first choice in the sub menu? Kind of redundant, joules to joules.
If you want to adjust joule, its right there without going into the sub menu.
If you are entering the sub menu, I would think that the most frequent thing you're going in for is to adjust temp. There are 9 clicks besides up & down adjustment when it could be 2 for the most commonly used sub menu adjustment.

Yeah, you change an atty and change wire type. One and done. Now you have to fiddle a little to dial in temp. How many times did you access wire and how many temp for the change of the atty and getting dialed in?

I don't know, thats at least what makes the most sense to me after using it for a while now.

Good to have someones ear in this thread that communicates with yihi.
 

Vlad1

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Yeah, never updated to the Ti firmware. Makes sense that was there to select Ti.

Makes sense that joules is on the home screen since in power mode you have watts on the home screen and there's probably something shared between the two modes when they wrote the firmware.

But if you have joules on the home screen, why have joules your first choice in the sub menu? Kind of redundant, joules to joules.
If you want to adjust joule, its right there without going into the sub menu.
If you are entering the sub menu, I would think that the most frequent thing you're going in for is to adjust temp. There are 9 clicks besides up & down adjustment when it could be 2 for the most commonly used sub menu adjustment.

Yeah, you change an atty and change wire type. One and done. Now you have to fiddle a little to dial in temp. How many times did you access wire and how many temp for the change of the atty and getting dialed in?

I don't know, thats at least what makes the most sense to me after using it for a while now.

Good to have someones ear in this thread that communicates with yihi.

Like I said Tomatto Tomotto, it's one button press to skip past that Joule / Power setting once you enter the menu system if you don't like it. I recall many that didn't know they could make the adjustment with the Up / Down buttons when the device was first released so were doing it in the menu system. As far as adjusting temp I rarely ever change it after the initial setup, once my temp is set for a given build / juice it pretty much stays there and I'll adjust the Joules or Preset if I want to ramp up faster or slower. Like I said earlier some want to adjust Temp others adjust the Joules / Power, it's pretty simple for me. Can understand it being a nuisance for those that want to adjust temp all the time though.
 

fq06

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Trying to figure out what I should be setting TCR at for 316L SS wire.

Looking at Steam engine's wire wizard and I choose 24g 316L/Elite (whatever elite is) I get this...

Resistance 0.297 Ω
Resistivity 3.66 Ω/m
TCR in vaping range 879 ×10-6
TC precision 261

When I go to adjust TCR on the Mini I see an adjustment that starts at 0.00050.

so how would I come to a number for the Mini?
0.00087?
0.879?
879 X (10-6) ?

Does going from 24g to 26g change the numbers? TCR in vaping range does on Steam Engine, but maybe that's not what I should be looking at?
 

f1r3b1rd

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Trying to figure out what I should be setting TCR at for 316L SS wire.

Looking at Steam engine's wire wizard and I choose 24g 316L/Elite (whatever elite is) I get this...

Resistance 0.297 Ω
Resistivity 3.66 Ω/m
TCR in vaping range 879 ×10-6
TC precision 261

When I go to adjust TCR on the Mini I see an adjustment that starts at 0.00050.

so how would I come to a number for the Mini?
0.00087?
0.879?
879 X (10-6) ?

Does going from 24g to 26g change the numbers? TCR in vaping range does on Steam Engine, but maybe that's not what I should be looking at?
I have it set at 0.00155
 

Vlad1

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Copied from someone else. I've not tried them all but should get you in the ballpark.

Stainless steel types:
317: 0.000875
316: 0.000915
304: 0.00105
430: 0.00138
410: 0.00155 - this value hasn't been verified yet

NiFe alloys:
Pernifer36(Invar): 0.00117
Resistherm(Dicodes): 0.0032
Nifethal52(NiFe48 at Zivipf): 0.00405
Nifethal70(NiFe30 at Zivipf): 0.00506

Ni200: 0.0052 (20°C-200°C)

Titanium #1: 0.0035

(Niobium: 0.0028 - not verified)
 

f1r3b1rd

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Umm what's Niobium:
 

fq06

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Unobtanium isn't on the list yet?

Thanx everyone. Now i just need to find somewhere with 24g & 26g in stock. Local store vapordna only has 28g.

Edit: Origin vape has 26 & 24 but so far haven't found any on the west coast.
317L seems to be the preferred wire but what about 316LVM?
 
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f1r3b1rd

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I've been using the 316L

I played test dummy for ss in tc but I'll let someone else get the Nubian thing started.
 

Mattp169

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Niobium, formerly columbium, is a chemical element with symbol Nb (formerlyCb) and atomic number 41. It is a soft, grey, ductiletransition metal, which is often found in the pyrochlore mineral, the main commercial source for niobium, andcolumbite. The name comes from Greek mythology: Niobe, daughter of Tantalussince it is so similar to tantalum.[2]

thats wikipedia
Im no genius but I found this statment in the wiipedia as well

Niobium is in many ways similar to tantalum and zirconium. It reacts with most nonmetals at high temperatures: niobium reacts withfluorine at room temperature, with chlorine and hydrogen at 200 °C, and with nitrogen at 400 °C, giving products that are frequently interstitial and nonstoichiometric.[28] The metal begins to oxidize in air at 200 °C,[37] and is resistant to corrosion by fused alkalis and by acids, including aqua regia, hydrochloric, sulfuric, nitric and phosphoric acids.


so i fit oxidizes at 200C
that will occur with vaping
so if the oxides are unhealthy to inhale, then this metal be no good for us

Im clueless and leave it to a chemist or some other smart person to figure that out
 

f1r3b1rd

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Niobium, formerly columbium, is a chemical element with symbol Nb (formerlyCb) and atomic number 41. It is a soft, grey, ductiletransition metal, which is often found in the pyrochlore mineral, the main commercial source for niobium, andcolumbite. The name comes from Greek mythology: Niobe, daughter of Tantalussince it is so similar to tantalum.[2]

thats wikipedia
Im no genius but I found this statment in the wiipedia as well

Niobium is in many ways similar to tantalum and zirconium. It reacts with most nonmetals at high temperatures: niobium reacts withfluorine at room temperature, with chlorine and hydrogen at 200 °C, and with nitrogen at 400 °C, giving products that are frequently interstitial and nonstoichiometric.[28] The metal begins to oxidize in air at 200 °C,[37] and is resistant to corrosion by fused alkalis and by acids, including aqua regia, hydrochloric, sulfuric, nitric and phosphoric acids.


so i fit oxidizes at 200C
that will occur with vaping
so if the oxides are unhealthy to inhale, then this metal be no good for us

Im clueless and leave it to a chemist or some other smart person to figure that out
Ahh thanks dude. i'll pass and stick with SS
 

fq06

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There's two bugs that I'm aware of testing with single 18650 in this release, let me know if you find any and how to reproduce them and I'll add them to my bug list.

Seems like when in Ni mode and I change the battery out it reverts back to 50J and you can not adjust it higher.
Change wire to Ti and click it up past 50J and then change back to Ni wire and you can go up to 75J.

Not a big deal but seems like a bug.
 

fq06

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Also, what's the thought behind temp compensation? 25°C is about 80°F so summer in los angeles is usually about 80° so I would put it at 26 and in the winter it drops to a chilly 60° so I would set it to 15?
 

Mroutlaw

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So has anyone actually figures out the temp compensation and what it does?
 

Powerman

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Just got to say... USPS sucks. 3 day priority on hopes of getting Saturday... no updates, then arrives my town Saturday morning... out for delivery. SWEET! No, no package Saturday. Oh well. Sometimes it is just them changing carriers. I'll get it Monday. The original delivery date.... No, no package Monday. Update says it got in my town again, being sorted.... What is so flippin' hard to have accurate package updates in this day and age? Every other carrier seems to be able to do it. So maybe I'll get it tomorrow. Late. Glad I paid for Priority. First world problems to be sure... just venting.
 

Powerman

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So I finally got my SX Mini yesterday. Interesting. I did the 2.32 upgrade. Set my TCR to .00090 for my Crown SS coil. Total guess. I have yet to read what SS the Crown coils are. Some observations:

The SX is everything you guys said. build quality is great. Very comfortable in the hand.

I was a little surprised at the PWM. It's rather dramatic. All I have to compare to is the D2. But it is a Yihi TC too. On my D2, using the Ni coil, it's there. More steppish, faster. The SX Mini is more wave like. But pretty pronounced. Can feel hot to cold.

I set it to 75j, even though I might actually only be doing 50j. I used powerfluFU at first. But went to standard. Went down to 70j. Started at 450F, then 500F, then 550F. I'm trying to get close to what it is, to minimize the pulses. My thinking is if it only needs say 40j to maintain temp, and I keep hitting it with 75j, then the pulses will/should be more pronounced. If I want a temp limit... then for any given coil, it is only going to take "X" joules to hit that limit with what I do.

It seems though compared to my D2, that the TCR is definitely different. Meaning the vape on the SX is very cool. On the D2, I can get it pretty warm. No big deal. It's just a setting. What ever the temp is, that is what it will limit to.

So far I like it. I'll play with it more. any suggestions are great. But generally, after stepping up to the D2 and the Crown, I got used to warm vape. Not hot, just warm. And it was so smooth, the warmth allowed me to feel it was actually doing something. Now my vape is cool again. Still get plenty. Can make a cloud. It's just odd because it is so smooth, I can't even tell it's firing... except when I blow out vape. At this point I just want to fine tune a bit to calm the pulse down.
 

fq06

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Bump tcr up to 91 or 92. Leave temp and joules alone so you know what the change does.

For SS 0.00090 is too low and will give you a cool vape. 93 is too high, hot vape at low temp setting. 0.00001 makes a surprisingly large difference in heat.

And I think your right, pushing J too high will make the pwm work overtime. I set mine a little above what it takes to get the coil up to temp quickly and don't notice any rattlesnake or wave. For single coil Ni 26g I am usually around 35J. For a subohm tank, 55J+. Those seem to need more power than my clt with a 0.06 build on it for whatever reason... maybe a long think wire needed for the build?
 
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Powerman

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So correct me if I'm wrong.... My thinking is, regardless of what the actual TCR is, SS is a lot lower than Ni/Ti. A much smaller rise in resistance for temp. So regardless of TCR, all it is actually doing is shifting temp scale. Set TCR too low, and a very small rise in resistance would read high temp rise. A higher TCR could actually shift it out of range. Meaning, the chip would say you are at 600F limit, but actual temp could be 700F.

Vlad provided a list of SS TCRs above. Pretty wide range even though all are much lower than Ni/Ti. They would all work, but temp scale will be off. F1r is using 155 on his. A general number for SS starts at 80. The same range Vlad posted.
 

Powerman

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Ifound Vapor Royalty saying Crown uses 316. Above that's .000915. I set mine to .00092. Lowered to 60j/500F and powerful. Definitely reduced pulse. Pretty smooth. Just not warm. So I'm in the ball park.
 

Mroutlaw

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So correct me if I'm wrong.... My thinking is, regardless of what the actual TCR is, SS is a lot lower than Ni/Ti. A much smaller rise in resistance for temp. So regardless of TCR, all it is actually doing is shifting temp scale. Set TCR too low, and a very small rise in resistance would read high temp rise. A higher TCR could actually shift it out of range. Meaning, the chip would say you are at 600F limit, but actual temp could be 700F.

Vlad provided a list of SS TCRs above. Pretty wide range even though all are much lower than Ni/Ti. They would all work, but temp scale will be off. F1r is using 155 on his. A general number for SS starts at 80. The same range Vlad posted.

With stainless steel it becomes trial and error. The small is so small, it's finicky. Also, there are so many variants out there that two different 316L wires could have completely different TcR. I figure it out by doing the "burn test". Put a piece of cotton in and fire it dry at 420 degrees and I keep raising the TcR until it starts to char.
 

Powerman

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With stainless steel it becomes trial and error. The small is so small, it's finicky. Also, there are so many variants out there that two different 316L wires could have completely different TcR. I figure it out by doing the "burn test". Put a piece of cotton in and fire it dry at 420 degrees and I keep raising the TcR until it starts to char.
That's actually a good test. I have the RBA with the extra coils Uwell provided. I would love to "assume" it's the same SS wire. That would give a good indication of temp for TCR.
 

Vlad1

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So I finally got my SX Mini yesterday. Interesting. I did the 2.32 upgrade. Set my TCR to .00090 for my Crown SS coil. Total guess. I have yet to read what SS the Crown coils are. Some observations:

The SX is everything you guys said. build quality is great. Very comfortable in the hand.

I was a little surprised at the PWM. It's rather dramatic. All I have to compare to is the D2. But it is a Yihi TC too. On my D2, using the Ni coil, it's there. More steppish, faster. The SX Mini is more wave like. But pretty pronounced. Can feel hot to cold.

I set it to 75j, even though I might actually only be doing 50j. I used powerfluFU at first. But went to standard. Went down to 70j. Started at 450F, then 500F, then 550F. I'm trying to get close to what it is, to minimize the pulses. My thinking is if it only needs say 40j to maintain temp, and I keep hitting it with 75j, then the pulses will/should be more pronounced. If I want a temp limit... then for any given coil, it is only going to take "X" joules to hit that limit with what I do.

It seems though compared to my D2, that the TCR is definitely different. Meaning the vape on the SX is very cool. On the D2, I can get it pretty warm. No big deal. It's just a setting. What ever the temp is, that is what it will limit to.

So far I like it. I'll play with it more. any suggestions are great. But generally, after stepping up to the D2 and the Crown, I got used to warm vape. Not hot, just warm. And it was so smooth, the warmth allowed me to feel it was actually doing something. Now my vape is cool again. Still get plenty. Can make a cloud. It's just odd because it is so smooth, I can't even tell it's firing... except when I blow out vape. At this point I just want to fine tune a bit to calm the pulse down.

On the Crown I've been using .00105 as if it were 304SS and it works well for me. I'm not sure but I've read both that it's 316 & 304 and on top of that the legs may be Ni200 so you may try that. As to the "PWM" it's actually PFM if it's noticeable to you your probably either overshooting temp and over regulating the temp by having the Joules set way higher than needed, having a wicking problem or your coil is just dry or with little air flow. You might try seeing where your build / juice temperature normally vaporizes. You can do this by setting your temp to max, set your joules to about 15J then fire the device. Watch where you temperature first stalls then set you temp to about 20F above that, this should be a good point where your vaporizing your juice but not necessarily burning it and not causing it to over regulate. Vape it and see if you like it, if it's not warm enough try boosting to Powerfu+ or Powerful or if it's too warm try Soft etc.. You can also adjust your Joule setting and raising your temp setting to get it warmer / cooler but you'll want to repeat the steps on setting your temp using a slightly higher Joule setting so your not over regulating. Hope that made sense. If not look up Butt Kickers review of it I think he went over the setup on his youtube review.
 

Powerman

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So what does the power mode do? I thought that was just initial hit to get coil up to temp faster.
 

Vlad1

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So what does the power mode do? I thought that was just initial hit to get coil up to temp faster.

Power mode is for Kanthal, Nichrome etc.., The Presets "Powerful, Powerfu+" if i recall correctly is 10% & 15% additional power for the first 2 seconds after firing then defaults to your power or joule setting depending on the mode your in.
 

Mroutlaw

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That's actually a good test. I have the RBA with the extra coils Uwell provided. I would love to "assume" it's the same SS wire. That would give a good indication of temp for TCR.
I believe the crown occ coils are d grade, which is 304. Try .01 for a tcr
 

Powerman

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Well I haven't seen anything from Uwell. I've seen a couple things from vendors. But that could be stupid guess, or plain marketing spin lies. The burn test would be a fair calibration test. That would not be gnats ass accurate, but it would be a fair test of coil mod build with a generally known number of 400F ish where cotton burns.

But just going by Vlads list... Huge variation between 316 and 304 TCRs.
 

fq06

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Or... set the temp and joules the same as your D2 and adjust the tcr up until you get the heat the D2 is giving you with the same crown tank and juice.
 

Powerman

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I played around another way.... Since I know the Crown .25 can handle plenty more than 75w, I set out put to max. 75j and 575F. Then, I kept raising TCR until it stopped limiting power. No idea how accurate for TC that is, but that wasn't the point. I want the SX to be able to do full output, then I would limit temp. I got to 0.00120 for TCR at 75j/575F. Then I lowered temp to what I wanted. 475F. Warmish vape, slight temp limit. If I went by my D2 in power, I would guess I would be 60-70 w. Lowering joules to 65 leaves very little temp limit pulsing.

Bottom line is I got the vape I like, and temp is limited and consistent at a reasonable temp to not overheat the juice. Very smooth. I'm using a 70/30 mix right now, but I just ordered a bunch of max VG. We'll see how that does with its higher boiling point.
 

Mroutlaw

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Well I haven't seen anything from Uwell. I've seen a couple things from vendors. But that could be stupid guess, or plain marketing spin lies. The burn test would be a fair calibration test. That would not be gnats ass accurate, but it would be a fair test of coil mod build with a generally known number of 400F ish where cotton burns.

But just going by Vlads list... Huge variation between 316 and 304 TCRs.

This is my Uwell crown package. It clearly states d grade stainless steel heating wire. Again, D grade is 304 stainless steel, so start with .01 for a tcr.
0b81b1ebc69036e80a8d284bf663ec4d.jpg
 

Powerman

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Well, I guess I should have gone to the company site sooner. Uwell specs the Crown tank as SUS304 and their coils as SUS316 SS.

As far as "food grade", there is no standard spec in any standards. It's a generic term applied at whim it seems. Most SS for food service equipment happens to be 304 or 316 depending on application. But they are both the most commonly used SS too.

I tried my experiment with the 0.25 coil. When I went to the 0.50 coil, there was no temp limiting. I had to lower to 375F. That makes sense as my TCR is too high. At 375F actual was probably closer to max. I'm going with SUS316 for now and play with that.
 

Sparks

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SX Mini M Class battery cap replacement has now been custom made by a really great guy in Colorado and I thought I'd make a mention about it.
It's quit possible you all already know this as it seems I'm the one who's always late with the news .. LOL
Anyhow, if any of you have had to buy replacement battery caps like I have and twice now from Varitube or whomever, then you know they cost with shipping from Florida $10.04, so at first site you may think that these custom made caps seem a little steep cost wise, but I think not really considering.
The fellas name is Nathan and I've spoke to him a number of times and yesterday he emailed me after I placed an order with him to let me know that he had actually came down some on the price he was initially asking for them and that he also now has the cap available in stainless and not just the original material of aluminum, plus he has made them anodized in different colors to match the SX..
So here's his link if your interested and mine is in the mail so if you want to what a little I come back and let you all know what I think of these caps.
http://shop.elevatedvapeaccessories.com/main.sc SX Mini M stainless custom made replacement cap.jpeg

Bye the way, he explained to me that these are supposed to be very easy to get on and off and no coin or what ever is needed to get the cap off, so this should be interesting to see..
 

harpo1

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SX Mini M Class battery cap replacement has now been custom made by a really great guy in Colorado and I thought I'd make a mention about it.
It's quit possible you all already know this as it seems I'm the one who's always late with the news .. LOL
Anyhow, if any of you have had to buy replacement battery caps like I have and twice now from Varitube or whomever, then you know they cost with shipping from Florida $10.04, so at first site you may think that these custom made caps seem a little steep cost wise, but I think not really considering.
The fellas name is Nathan and I've spoke to him a number of times and yesterday he emailed me after I placed an order with him to let me know that he had actually came down some on the price he was initially asking for them and that he also now has the cap available in stainless and not just the original material of aluminum, plus he has made them anodized in different colors to match the SX..
So here's his link if your interested and mine is in the mail so if you want to what a little I come back and let you all know what I think of these caps.
http://shop.elevatedvapeaccessories.com/main.sc View attachment 32585

Bye the way, he explained to me that these are supposed to be very easy to get on and off and no coin or what ever is needed to get the cap off, so this should be interesting to see..
I have them on both my SX Mini M's. So much easier to work with.
 

Sparks

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I have them on both my SX Mini M's. So much easier to work with.
Opp, see what I mean I'm always a day late and usually a dollar short LOL ..
Well I am really glad to hear that anyhow as I am really feed up with that stupid SX cap, thanks for mentioning that you have them, that is great..!!
Also I really do like the fella who has made these so told him I would be spreading the word as I'm fairly certain I'm not the only one sick and tired of those really ignorantly designed caps, hope he makes out really good financially as I myself had wished I knew how to make them but sure don't know a lick about machining parts.
 

fq06

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I will be ordering one soon but in the mean time I just cut some slits in the stock one to get a little better grip on it for now.

20151102_193733-1.jpg
 

Sparks

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I will be ordering one soon but in the mean time I just cut some slits in the stock one to get a little better grip on it for now.

View attachment 32589
That there is a really good idea, smarter than the SX designers for sure
 

fq06

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Yeah, the thread pitch and lack of grip pisses me off daily lol.

I will be ordering one soon and I would love it if someone made a course thread cap and a matching tap to cut new threads in the battery tube. But I would guess most people wouldn't want to go grinding new treads into it. It wouldn't be pretty but there is nearly zero force those threads need to hold in so I'm sure cutting a course thread in the copper tube would last just fine... try to talk someone into shoving a tap into their $200 mod though lol
 

Sparks

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
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Yeah, the thread pitch and lack of grip pisses me off daily lol.

I will be ordering one soon and I would love it if someone made a course thread cap and a matching tap to cut new threads in the battery tube. But I would guess most people wouldn't want to go grinding new treads into it. It wouldn't be pretty but there is nearly zero force those threads need to hold in so I'm sure cutting a course thread in the copper tube would last just fine... try to talk someone into shoving a tap into their $200 mod though lol
Hell ya, I tell you I have been talking with the fella who has had these caps made Nathan and about exactly that, the threads in that fn brass battery tube and I am with you all the way about pissed the heck off every battery change and trying like crazy to be very careful on a stupid $200 mod so I don't cross thread the tube, I've bought 3 replacement caps from Varitube at $10 a pop and now bought this fellas new designed one which I believe is going to fix some of the issue but still that tube, I have asked and he is going to talk to his machinist for me about getting a tap and I WILL shove that tap so far into this mods a**, ah battery tube, and as a matter of fact I'm already looking at the newest version the ML and I will then tear this M class down and see what I can do to fix that stupid tube, the rest of the mod is awesome, out of the hundreds of different mech mods I have something will work in that mod I'm fairly sure, I have a ton of crap just sitting in boxes like sizes of the Origin which if I recall is 21mm up to gigantor size 26650 what is that like 30+mm?? I've never had a mod that cost this much annoy me this much, LOL but still be so awesome, geez
Bye the way, about a week ago I went so far as take a automotive bore scope and looked down into that tube with the camera to see if I had cross threaded it and I couldn't even tell, the threads are so bad, it's like it starts then stops and starts again, very weird I've never seen anything like it, I can't just follow the threads around and down, I was trying to match up the start of the caps threads with the start of the tubes thread and it's almost impossible, I really think I just got a very bad mod honestly, I don't believe they could all be as bad as mine or people would be really screaming..
 
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fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Aftermarket cap showed up.
Threads are sharper and a little deeper so it threads in & out nicely.
Caps a little taller so more of it sticks out to grab onto taking it out.

All in all a nice improvement, wish yihi just made a decent cap to start with but for those willing to throw a twenty at the problem, at least there's a solution. Well, besides a $200 ml class to fix the cap problem but I like the $20 option better :D

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Vlad1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
I've heard those are nice. I've had 3 SXmini m's and not any problems with the factory caps on any of them. Do wish they were coarse threaded though to make it easier to line up when placing back on. I keep the threads on the cap and the sleeve clean and all I have to use to get it on and off is
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fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Whoever put the cap in at the factory cross threaded my warranty replacement unit.
My first unit was fine, could have been better but didn't have sticky threads that don't want to let go of the cap on it's way out.
 

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