Become a Patron!

sony batteries

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
anyone no if the sony vtc5 is good to use in a fully mech mods, i use the vtc4, but I seen on a website where it only recommended the vtc4 and not the vtc5, my assumption is that they are the same battery with the difference deign in the man's i believe they are both 30 amp
 

not2coolguy

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
VTC5s are great. They both are 30 amp, but the vtc5 is 2500 mah whereas i believe the vtc4 is 2100 mah. I have a few vtc5s and love them, but not as much as my 35A purple Efests!!!
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Thanks would u be able to post a link where I can buy that 35a efast batt
 

not2coolguy

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
may be cheaper elsewhere but those are the ones I bought
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Are these good for a duel coil
.3 ohm build?
 

not2coolguy

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Efest merly relabels batteries t he Purple you are speaking of is a Sony so if you can find a good deal then get a Efest branded battery but they do not make batteries..
I did not know that. So why can't i find any actual sony 35A 18650s?
 

Ace

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Whew. When i see a thread started that has battery and smoke grenade in it i have to wonder. Looks like a false alarm... As you were.
 

Sully

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Efest merly relabels batteries t he Purple you are speaking of is a Sony so if you can find a good deal then get a Efest branded battery but they do not make batteries..
I dont agree with this. The CONTINUOUS discharge on the 35A Efests is 20A (I thought). The Sony's are 30A continuous. Plus, the Sony's hit waaay harder than the Efests IMO. No way they are the same battery...
 

not2coolguy

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I believe the efests are rebranded lg he2 batteries. People are saying that the specs are misleading and the 35A is the pulse discharge rating. Honestly I don't see much of a difference between these and my vtc5s and im usually vaping at .2-.3 ohms. I have never had the efest get hot or any problems but I have had one of my vtc5s get so hot that it burned my hand til it blistered when quickly trying to remove it from a hot mod. Popped the purple efest in once the mod cooled down and it vaped like a champ. I threw the vtc5 on my i4 once it cooled and it hasn't had the problem again. Not sure what was up with it!!!!
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Whew. When i see a thread started that has battery and smoke grenade in it i have to wonder. Looks like a false alarm... As you were.
Lol I never thought of that when I created the name. Lol. I am new to mechanical mods. So just trying to get info so I can safely vape while using a mech mod.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ace

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Whew. When i see a thread started that has battery and smoke grenade in it i have to wonder. Looks like a false alarm... As you were.
Is there a way I can change my username on vapingunderground
 

MrScaryZ

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I believe the efests are rebranded lg he2 batteries. People are saying that the specs are misleading and the 35A is the pulse discharge rating. Honestly I don't see much of a difference between these and my vtc5s and im usually vaping at .2-.3 ohms. I have never had the efest get hot or any problems but I have had one of my vtc5s get so hot that it burned my hand til it blistered when quickly trying to remove it from a hot mod. Popped the purple efest in once the mod cooled down and it vaped like a champ. I threw the vtc5 on my i4 once it cooled and it hasn't had the problem again. Not sure what was up with it!!!!
Yep you are correct :)
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
How do I change my username on vaping underground. Sorry to go off topic.
 

Sully

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Makes me wonder what battery the Efest purple 10.5amp 18350 I've run 0.45ohm on is REALLY...
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Ok got the name changed. Lol
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
If the battery has more amps does that mean it is a safer battery
 
The "safeness" of the battery really depends on what type of chemical makeup it has. Some types of batteries contain gases that when contact air explode. If I am not mistaken that is the ICR battery type. But don't quote me. Also when dealing with the amp draw, yes, because you can have a lower ohm build safely.
 

Superjeep

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
FYI Efest is notorious for shall we say "embellishing" battery stats. I am not saying they are not good batteries but I personally stay clear for that reason after doing a ton of reading on reviews on sites like budgetlightforum and candlepowerforum. I just would rather get the real cell and know exactly what they can do instead of having to play the "guess what cell and stats efest is using this time" game.
 

not2coolguy

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
FYI Efest is notorious for shall we say "embellishing" battery stats. I am not saying they are not good batteries but I personally stay clear for that reason after doing a ton of reading on reviews on sites like budgetlightforum and candlepowerforum. I just would rather get the real cell and know exactly what they can do instead of having to play the "guess what cell and stats efest is using this time" game.
This thread really opened my eyes to efest batteries. I guess I had too much trust in the specs, not knowing what is really going on. I also just never had a problem with them. Time to be a bit more careful and do a bit more research before believing everything a company publishes as far as specs go. Thanks everyone!
 

Fishee

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I run the purple efest and the vtc5 and there is a noticeable difference. But nothing too drastic.
Vaping the same amount with the same coil for the same time span and I always notice the purple efest has drained a bit lower than the vtc5.
I feel very comfortable using the efest but I feel even more comfortable with the vtc5 because I know it is what it says it is.
Really the only thing I know about my purple efest is that it is a purple efest because the wrapper says so. But I DON"T know what it might actually be under the wrapper.
 

Superjeep

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
For the average user the efest are fine really. Its not that they are bad cells its just that they like to overstate things like amp limits and mah sometimes. I primarily sub ohm so I prefer to stick with sony's. Also the couple efest batteries I had back when I was using quality AW batteries the efest just did not last near as long. I still have a couple AW 1600 mAH that are going strong I purchased at the same time as the red efest and the efest are long since dead.

Its also really important you make sure you are getting legit cells. Unfortunately far to many brick and morter and ebay listings are fakes. Its not that they are trying to scam its that they just do not test and know what to look for and they end up buying shipments of fakes from china vendors. The fakes might very well work fine for the average user but when ya start sub ohming you can tell pretty quick put next to a legit cell.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
How do you no how battery life you have left when vaping sub ohm on mech mod. I always worry about draining my battery down to far.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
How many coils will I need to get 1.0 ohms using 24 gauge kanthal anyone no?
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
How do you no how battery life you have left when vaping sub ohm on mech mod. I always worry about draining my battery down to far.
How many coils will I need to get 1.0 ohms using 24 gauge kanthal anyone no?

(1) There is a noticable difference in the way your device vapes as the battery gets near the recharge point. However, until you are experienced, you should continuously check your battery charge with an ohm meter. Say about every 1/2 hour of vaping until you know how your batteries react within your device at any given resistance coil.
(2) It depends on the type, size, and number of wraps of coils. 1.0 ohms will typically be one fairly large coil when using 24g kanthal. Try taking a look at the coil tool, here:

http://coiltoy.ermeso.com/

Also, I recomend you research A LOT more about Ohms Law, coil resistance, battery safety, and how they relate to vaping. When asking the type of questions you just have, I would also suggest you stick with a GOOD regulated device and try to build coils at a reasonable resistance level until you gain enough experience.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Thanks Chris. But how do I check my battery with a ohm meter. I have one but I have to take the atty off to check. Also how long do the coils actually last before I have to change them.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
(1) There is a noticable difference in the way your device vapes as the battery gets near the recharge point. However, until you are experienced, you should continuously check your battery charge with an ohm meter. Say about every 1/2 hour of vaping until you know how your batteries react within your device at any given resistance coil.
(2) It depends on the type, size, and number of wraps of coils. 1.0 ohms will typically be one fairly large coil when using 24g kanthal. Try taking a look at the coil tool, here:

http://coiltoy.ermeso.com/

Also, I recomend you research A LOT more about Ohms Law, coil resistance, battery safety, and how they relate to vaping. When asking the type of questions you just have, I would also suggest you stick with a GOOD regulated device and try to build coils at a reasonable resistance level until you gain enough experience.

Thanks Chris. But how do I check my battery with a ohm meter. I have one but I have to take the atty off to check. Also how long do the coils actually last before I have to change them.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
(1) There is a noticable difference in the way your device vapes as the battery gets near the recharge point. However, until you are experienced, you should continuously check your battery charge with an ohm meter. Say about every 1/2 hour of vaping until you know how your batteries react within your device at any given resistance coil.
(2) It depends on the type, size, and number of wraps of coils. 1.0 ohms will typically be one fairly large coil when using 24g kanthal. Try taking a look at the coil tool, here:

http://coiltoy.ermeso.com/

Also, I recomend you research A LOT more about Ohms Law, coil resistance, battery safety, and how they relate to vaping. When asking the type of questions you just have, I would also suggest you stick with a GOOD regulated device and try to build coils at a reasonable resistance level until you gain enough experience.

Also I use 24g kanthal my build is .3 ohms I am using a authentic manhattan. Do I go higher in gauge to get a higher ohms resistance and also some told me not to vape any juice over 6mg when dripping on a mech mod. Thanks in advance.
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Thanks Chris. But how do I check my battery with a ohm meter. I have one but I have to take the atty off to check. Also how long do the coils actually last before I have to change them.
You check the battery by removing it from the mod, select the appropriate DC voltage setting on the meter, and placing the meter leads to the correct anode or cathode. You really need to watch some reputable YouTube videos. Or even better, have an experienced person train you.
Coils can last weeks to months depending on the type of coil, gauge used, resistance, wicking, type of device it's applied to, how it's used, how much you vape, power setting or voltages applied, and how you care for/clean them. I've had coils last so long, that I finally just got bored and changed them out of spite!

I had said ohm meter in a previous post, but I should have said multimeter instead. Check you batteries with a multimeter. Sorry I didn't catch my mistake earlier.
 
Last edited:

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Do u use a kick in your mech mods or do you go straight battery to atty.
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Also I use 24g kanthal my build is .3 ohms I am using a authentic manhattan. Do I go higher in gauge to get a higher ohms resistance and also some told me not to vape any juice over 6mg when dripping on a mech mod. Thanks in advance.

FACEPALM! Vinny, the only real advice I can honestly give you is to PLEASE put the mech mod down until you know what you're doing!!!! Get a good cheap regulated APV like a MVP2 and practice building with 32 to 28 gauge wire for coils above 1.2 ohms until you ABSOLUTELY KNOW THIS INFORMATION!

You are walking the razors edge with a pipe bomb held up to your face! Man, I just don't want to see you hurt!
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Thanks bro I appreciate. I did have some one teach me. But he taught me how to build a .3ohm coil with 24 gauge wire which is easy and I did with no problems. The ohms tested good and I had no shorts or anything getting hot. So building is not the issue. My concern is how to identify a problem when down the road on battery's. I use good batts sony vtc4. So I just trying to get some insight on the dangers or signs to look for. Such as hot button or hot battery which I know are danger signs.
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Vinny, I firmly believe that the person that taught you how to build a .3 ohm coil, without teaching you this information, was being irresponsible and put your life in danger!

The higher the gauge, the thinner the diameter of the wire and the more resistance the wire has. A 32g wire is thinner than 30g or 28g and has a higher resistance. Think of it this way, the lower the gauge number, the more experienced you need to be to use it!
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Thanks chowder. Appreciate it.
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Do u use a kick in your mech mods or do you go straight battery to atty.

At this point Vinny, you should definitely use a kick! That is unless you have a safer regulated mod.
 

Superjeep

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
remember a kick is not gonna fire a .3 ohm coil. I would probably spend some money and buy 28 and 30ga wire, one of those $15 ohm checkers vape stores carry and spend a evening watching youtube tutorials. Its really hard to explain the ins and outs of safely making sub ohm coils on a forum. Watching videos and building as you watch from trusted people will keep you safe and show you what you need to know. .3 ohm is no joke. I have been vaping on mech's for years and I usually dont go below .5 just because that satisfy s my habit.. .3 is very advanced user territory and puts a metric shit ton(actual scientific term) of stress on your batteries so you really need the cream of the crop cells and the right tools and accessories.

The Efest LUC V4(battery charger) can be had for $35 and it shows battery levels (digital readout)in bars and actual voltage as well as actually having 4 micro controllers(1 per actual bay unlike most others)and lets you charge at .5, 1 and 2 amps. You cant just throw high end IMR cells on any old charger. I just stopped using a intellicharger i4 a while back which was well regarded because I found out it only has a single 1.5 amp shared microcontroller and putting multiple sony's on it was making it get hot as well as charging them at a lower amp then they needed(charging 4 batts on it is only .375 amp per bay).

The charger isnt gonna make your batteries blow but they will make cells degrade and go bad. IMR batteries we use for sub ohing need to be charged at specific rates or they actually degrade batteries(.5-1amp for 18650, 1-2 amp for 26650). These are the type of things you really need to learn about before making crazy sub ohm coils.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Super jeep thank you for the very informative comment. I have a very good charger. What gauge and how many wraps get you to .5ohms
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I really depends on the inner dia of the coil. I use http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp when I am experimenting with different coils. It has about every option you need. You really need a ohm meter or a decent multi-meter.

He needs both an ohm meter and a multimeter. And learn how to use the multimeter for both checking the resistance and voltage.
 

OBDave

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VTC5s are great. They both are 30 amp, but the vtc5 is 2500 mah whereas i believe the vtc4 is 2100 mah. I have a few vtc5s and love them, but not as much as my 35A purple Efests!!!
I'm in the opposite camp - I have VTC5s and Efest purples, and I notice a harder hit off a fresh Sony, and that the "fresh" feeling lasts longer than it does with my Efest. Wife and I both have a pair of each, purchased from a reputable vendor (Mt. Baker), so I'm trusting they're legit.

OP - in addition to an ohm meter for your builds, you need a digital multimeter. Lots of people hate on the cheap ones from Harbor Freight (they were free until a month or so ago), but I've got pretty accurate readings comparing mine to a guy I work with who shelled out $40 for his. Here's a tutorial on how to use one:

http://altsmoke.com/multimeter.html

Use one every half hour or so on your battery until you learn to judge your charge level based on the performance of your mod - it shouldn't take more than a week or so until you can guess with pretty good accuracy what voltage your battery is putting out. Once you hit 3.7 volts, time for your battery to hit the charger.

I strongly recommend you keep your builds in the 1.0-1.2 ohm range until you've familiarized yourself with using all the proper tools and can vape your battery by feel to within 0.1-0.2 volts of power. I started there with 30g wire and have gradually worked down over 2 months to where I'm now building 0.4 ohm dual coils with 26g. 0.2 ohm and below is where you can really run into battery safety issues, but that's not to say malfunction or operator error isn't a significant concern at the 0.3 you're pushing now. At least you have good batteries - I say stick with the VTC series (3, 4, or 5 - all the same, but the bigger the number the better the battery life), but that's my personal opinion only having one other battery to compare with.

I'm guessing you're using a good charger like a Nitecore, Xtar, or Efest, but if you're not you should be - run like hell from the ones that are just like a big wall wart and any battery with the word 'fire' in the name.

As far as a coil's lifespan, it can be pretty long - I usually have to re-wick with fresh cotton every 2-3 days, but if you do a good dry burn (hold your fire button until the coil gets red, release, repeat until it stops smoking) I've heard of people getting a month or more out of them. My current setup is about 3 weeks old and dry burning isn't quite knocking all the crud off, so I'll probably re-coil next time I re-wick.

Hope this helps you find a better (and safer) vape going forward!
 

Chowder

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
@vinnyvapes, you are going to hear the same advice over and over again from just about EVERY responcible person you ask. The only reason, that I can see right now, that you haven't had a bad experience is because you are using a good battery. If that battery fails, or you try to use an inferior battery, you CAN be seriously hurt and possibly hurt the people around you. These things are no joke. Most of us will help you find the information you want so you CAN learn. But we want you to be safe while you are gaining that experience. PLEASE use a kick or wrap your coils above 1.0 ohms until you know this stuff. @OBDave has some very good advise, and if you don't listen to me, please listen to him. That's about all I got for you bud. Vape safe.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
No I am def listening to you guys that's why I am asking actually later today I am going to pick up some 32 gauge to get my ohms a lot higher. Thanks everyone.
 

Superjeep

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No I am def listening to you guys that's why I am asking actually later today I am going to pick up some 32 gauge to get my ohms a lot higher. Thanks everyone.
32 ga is a pita to work with because its so soft and thin. 28 is frankly your best bet followed by 30 but 30 can be pretty soft as well. I actually use twisted 30ga in a fair amount of my builds.
 

Superjeep

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
To also add to what I just said. If you read a little bit and you have good batts and charger then .7-.8 is a pretty safe range to vape at. You just need to steer clear of the .5 or below until you wrap your head around the ins and outs is all. 28 ga will serve you well and you can always twist 28(there are vids showing you how) to essentially make 26 gaish wire.
 

vinnyvapes

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Thanks guys picked up some 28 gauge today.
 

VU Sponsors

Top