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Sparks Flying / Hot Button -help-

I've actually been vaping for about a year and a half but just recently got into Mech Mods and dripping.

My current rig is a Fuhattan (Manhattan Clone) and a Plume Veil clone RDA. Anyways I had dual parallel coils for a few days and loved it but one was firing faster than the other so i scrapped them and actually just built them again. 24 g Kanthal 5 wraps and it was firing great out f the gate, then i put the cap on the plume veil and all the sudden the button on the bottom of the Manhattan clone got really flipping hot and burned me a little so i used pressure to fire it on a glass table and and a few sparks actually flew out from the bottom, so i took the battery out and let it cool off and now it hits normal again. I am just curious as to what might have caused this and how to prevent it.

Thanks guys, Vape on!
 

Eric DeCastro

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coil shorted to top cap? did you measure the resistance before attaching it to your mod?
 

Eric DeCastro

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With resistance that low any piece of dirt will become a resistor and dissipate heat. Try a new spring unless you have magnets and clean all connections.

Just my opinion don't vape such low resistance if you don't want to keep your gear in top working order to keep up with the demands of a load that low.
 

Eric DeCastro

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You're pulling over 40 amps. Depending on battery voltage it's close to 200 watts. You're basically shorting the battery. You need to stop.
telling someone to stop vaping at .09ohms is like telling an alcoholic to stop drinking. they will continue to do so until something bad happens. I'm sure when the battery vents or worse, he will stop then. but it's a moot at this point. when a major incident (notice I didn't say accident) happens it will be all over the news and vaping will take another hit on why it's bad.
 

Kemosabe

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if your switch gets hot to the touch, do not attempt to fire it again without first finding out what went wrong. its a sign of your battery failing to handle the load you put on it. you shorted your coil, which is basically zero resistance (not that your very far from 0 with 0.09Ω :facepalm: )

Trevor, increase your resistance. it doesnt seem as if you are dead set on being that low seeing how you are kinda new to building/mechs. after you get a new build in there, test it on an ohm meter or a regulated device with the atty cap on, to see if you get a normal/expected reading. im guessing that your build was intended to be higher, or that technically it should be higher and that the 0.09Ω number is the result of a shortened circuit. but maybe not.

anyway, always inspect the build prior to firing to ensure your coil isnt touching anything, especially metal. it could be touching the deck, atty cap, etc. also make sure its not touching any insulators because itll likely damage/melt the insulator and give you one heck of a gnarly flavor in the process.

good luck and vape on brother.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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Some good advice here, and please disassemble your mod and check ohms on your atty, and all connections if you get a burning hot button. I mean no offense, but this reminds me of the video of the guy with the towel. If the button is too hot to touch, you probably have a short, and you certainly shouldn't use a surface to fire it.

I truly mean that with respect, please be safe. I'd never venture anywhere that low, but to each their own, and use care man. );
 

Johnny2Much

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just now, my fuhattan button is tossing little sparks too...using tugboat atty with 28 guage kanthal zipper coil reading at around .39 ohms. took it apart, cleaned everything (it was all dry and clean already) using the nice sony vtc5...top cap isn't on and test firing it throws sparks...wtf?
 

Rommel

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24 gauge five wrap should not read 0.09 ohms. Single coil would be around 0.43-0.5 depending on the diameter and duals about 0.2-0.26 ohms. Build it again or toss the atty, you may have a shitty insulator.

Hmm. Kinda late with this response. :D Oh well.

Sparks are never good, i wouldnt use a mod that does that.
 

nabibrian

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This is the only kind of good sparks...
11187053_882595158468560_2137547386_n.jpg
 

Johnny2Much

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so its most likely the atty? my fuhattan isn't even a week old. it's a tugboat clone that im currently using.
 

twisted

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24 gauge five wrap should not read 0.09 ohms. Single coil would be around 0.43-0.5 depending on the diameter and duals about 0.2-0.26 ohms. Build it again or toss the atty, you may have a shitty insulator.

Hmm. Kinda late with this response. :D Oh well.

Sparks are never good, i wouldnt use a mod that does that.

He said is was a 24g duel parrelel.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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wonky atty causing a dead short in the switch and cap.

Good luck with not getting a handful of fuck.
You have a way with your words and putting things so light and kind... ;) lol.

But he's right. Sparks are bad. They mean troubleshoot start to finish to figure out the issue. Do not continue firing something that is doing that. The beauty of mechs is that you can disassemble and go through everything. Do that and ask specific questions if needed. That battery might be bad news now, too.
 

BigNasty

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You have a way with your words and putting things so light and kind... ;) lol.

But he's right. Sparks are bad. They mean troubleshoot start to finish to figure out the issue. Do not continue firing something that is doing that. The beauty of mechs is that you can disassemble and go through everything. Do that and ask specific questions if needed. That battery might be bad news now, too.
If a venting battery in an enclosed tube to possible explosive results is not a handful of fuck then I do not what else to call it.
 

Haadkoe

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.09 on a single 18650, and he just kept trying to fire it. Lol

We should bring icr's back into fashion. People would only do stupid shit once.
 

martinelias

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Sony vtc3/4 can handle that, probly shorted somewhere. Dirty contacts, shit insulator, shitty build, etc.
 

Haadkoe

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46.67 amps @196 watts though. Hot damn!
 

martinelias

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Yeah that cant be pleasurable.
 

Johnny2Much

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You have a way with your words and putting things so light and kind... ;) lol.

But he's right. Sparks are bad. They mean troubleshoot start to finish to figure out the issue. Do not continue firing something that is doing that. The beauty of mechs is that you can disassemble and go through everything. Do that and ask specific questions if needed. That battery might be bad news now, too.
ok...tried different attys, still sparking, different batteries, still sparking, sanded contacts with 400 grit paper, cleaned everything, build new coils, .65 ohms this time....yep, still sparking. please help!
 

Johnny2Much

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seriously, i don't get it. the sparks are orange, and happen between the firing button on the sides of the mod. battery isn't getting hot though. went from a .3 to .6 build, different EVERYTHING i just don't understand. magnets are strong as hell, like i said all new mod, betteries are only 2 weeks old, sony vct5...if i don't fix this soon ill succumb to smoking...my cherry bomber doesn't get in till fucking thursday!!! AAAAAHHHHH!!!!!!!
 

Johnny2Much

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did i mention i've been vaping since early April, and my first mod was an ipv mini 2 souvenir which broke my 3rd week in? seems the gods of vape have it in for me lol
 

Johnny2Much

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anyone here in the philly area? lol this is humiliating, im just starting to get into building custom mods, and i cant get a $20 fuhattan to work....
 

Haadkoe

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If your vtc5's are 2 weeks old, they're almost certainly fakes... But that probably isn't why the mod is sparking I'm guessing.... Then again, maybe it has something to do with it. I dunno.

I'm not familiar enough with that particular tube and switch to be of much help though, unfortunately. Assuming it has an adjustable contact, have you adjusted it to get rid of any battery rattle? Battery correct side up?

Beats me buddy, but if there is a local shop near you I'd bring it in to them to have a look. Most shops are pretty helpful, especially if it'll help to earn them a new customer. Worst case, spend too much on another mod to tide you over till the bomber comes in. At least you'll have a backup for your backup, and you won't be smoking.
 

Johnny2Much

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i've only had the batteries for 2 weeks, closer to 3, bought them from my local shop. don't know how old they actually are, but they were new in box. and yes, i've adjusted the crap out it, and what's more confusing, no hot button (it does get a bit warm) and the battery doesn't get hot (also a bit warm) it really makes no sense. if i wrap the outside edges of the firing button (brass) will the mod still work? where is negative contact making connection with the body to complete the circuit? it seems that if there was less space between the button and the tube there wouldn't be any arcing. maybe some conductive tape or something....i will take it to my shop tomorrow maybe they'll have some answers
 

Haadkoe

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Despite the fact you just bought those batteries, there is a good chance they're counterfeit. Then shop who sold them to you may have bought them in good faith, but they haven't manufactured a vtc5 in like 2 years, and they were/are in high demand so I seriously doubt they've been sitting on a shelf unsold for all of this time. Impossible to say for certain since the counterfeiters have gotten better and better at what they do, but frankly I wouldn't risk it myself.

In any event, hit up a shop and see what they have to say. Hopefully they can get you sorted out. Good luck. :)
 

J Pope Paul

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Man, if ALL of the connections are clean between the tube and the switch, and the switch itself has been taken apart and cleaned out thoroughly with no burrs or rough spots. That sounds like you battery has reversed polarity on you... If you close a contact on the positive side of an electrical circuit that is pulling a sub-ohm load, it will spark like that. I know it sounds crazy, but I've seen it happen. Just not to 18650 batteries.
 

J Pope Paul

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Just read through the thread again and saw you tried different batteries... make sure you are putting them in the correct way (negative side towards the switch) and double check the inside of the switch and the inside of 510 connection at the top of your mod. There should be some sort of insulator that protects the positive pin from grounding out on the outside of your mod. You must have missed something that would make it have a bad/shorted connection. Since you have checked it in your ohm meter, I would assume the build is ok. However, you might want to re-check the connection of your coils and look for small pieces of rogue kanthol inside. I hope this helps.
 

Johnny2Much

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yup. did all that. and used different atomizers as well lol. it sparks a little inside the switch, the 1/32 of an inch space around the button ant the inside of the tube....and a tiny little snippet of kanthal was on the bottom of my switch the other day, and when i fired it it burned the shit out of my finger. im over it. my cherry bomber came in today and it's awesome! i don't really like mech mods anyways. thanks for all the help i really appreciate it. now....any pointers on where to find a replacement switch for my cherry bomber clone?
 

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