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Spitback, how to avoid it?

centella4u

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Member For 4 Years
I’m just curious. Is there a sure fire way to avoid spitback?
I’m not sure what causes it.
Anyone any idea?
Thanks
Oh, recently, I got spitback on my Aromamizer Plus (30mmm. rdta)
Wrapping 0.6 Kanthal wire 7 rounds on 4 mm. core came out at 0.33 ohm vaping at 50 watts 4.09 volts Aegis mod.
5928b0a49a1a9e829c45a64681d251de.jpg



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AndriaD

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The usual suggestions are to try slightly higher wattage, and/or slightly looser airflow. I vape at very low wattage with very tight airflow, so I use an angled adapter, or a knucklehead (swivel) driptip; usually the pops go straight up, not around the bend of the angled adapter or knucklehead. Sometimes it's just a misbehaving coil and the only way to fix it is to replace the coil.

Andria
 

AndriaD

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Knucklehead on left, angled adapter on right. Both are usually about $2-ish, though it can vary.

knuckleheadandangled.jpg

Andria
 

John C

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Ive battled this for most of my vaping life. Tighter wicking can help. Some coil types just want to spit for me, regardless. Twisted coils, some loose types of claptons, ive got a caterpiller track type setup on one RDA and it spits after a day or so after the wick gets more and more saturated and compressed.
 

centella4u

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The usual suggestions are to try slightly higher wattage, and/or slightly looser airflow. I vape at very low wattage with very tight airflow, so I use an angled adapter, or a knucklehead (swivel) driptip; usually the pops go straight up, not around the bend of the angled adapter or knucklehead. Sometimes it's just a misbehaving coil and the only way to fix it is to replace the coil.

Andria

Higher wattage made it worse, airflow already open all the way, which I don’t quite like, I like it to be tighter draw.
Was goona try to change driptips but still couldn’t get this original one out plus I don’t have the bent or swivel this size (810 or goon-style size)
But thanks


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centella4u

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ive battled this for most of my vaping life. Tighter wicking can help. Some coil types just want to spit for me, regardless. Twisted coils, some loose types of claptons, ive got a caterpiller track type setup on one RDA and it spits after a day or so after the wick gets more and more saturated and compressed.

Will try to change, wick first coz I used 4 mm. dia. and not used to.
If not, will change the coils completely.
Thanks


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John C

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Higher wattage never ever helped with my spitback. I dont know why, because its an extremely popular response/suggestion. Maybe my spitback is caused by abnormal reasons. The only thing that has helped is tighter wicking (I use RDAs, so tanks may be hindered by tighter wicking, making wicking of juice slower) and moving coils a bit. For instance my pulse 24 RDA I had to make the coils lower down, further away from the driptip..this cut it down but it will still spit after a day old wicking.
 

greasegizzard

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Member For 4 Years
Higher wattage never ever helped with my spitback. I dont know why, because its an extremely popular response/suggestion. Maybe my spitback is caused by abnormal reasons. The only thing that has helped is tighter wicking (I use RDAs, so tanks may be hindered by tighter wicking, making wicking of juice slower) and moving coils a bit. For instance my pulse 24 RDA I had to make the coils lower down, further away from the driptip..this cut it down but it will still spit after a day old wicking.
Same here. Turning wattage up has never helped me. Maybe I don't turn it up enough... I don't like hot vapes. Lowering the coils or rewicking have helped. I think sometimes people just repeat the most popular answers without fully understanding the situation. lol Like someone else said here, sometimes I have coils that just do that. They don't stay around long.

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Letitia9

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I've had zero spitback since switching to Drago egyptian cotton. Using thinner wire helps as well.
 

SteveS45

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One sure way I have found to avoid spit back is to blow into the Atomizer before actually taking a hit. This clears out any unnecessary e-Liquid. This also depends on having the proper amount of power going to the coils and only works with properly configured devices that may have sat for a little while and got overly saturated. It does not work if your not vaping correctly. Just my opinion based on personal experience.
 

fq06

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Can you turn up the preheat on your mod so it will get up to temp fast vaporizing the juice instead of boiling it on it's way to eventually vaporizing it?
 

SteveS45

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Yeah, some mods have a functuon that allows you to increase the wattage for a certain amount of time when in power mode.
Not all mods but it seems most of the newer ones do.

What MOD's in particular? I am curious.
 

kevin littell

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My experience with a Boreas is that if I go above 3.5-4mm dia coils it requires more cotton....Which saturates as the cotton breaks in and floods the coils. I now wrap round 26ga 5/6 K1 for .8 ohms (.4 total) and vape around 40 watts.

I get good flavor, more vape then I need and no spit.


With any of the topfeeders I've played with its the same results...Anything bigger then 4mm spits like a cobra and cooks my front teeth.


IMHO YMMV.
 

Letitia9

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You can use power curve with kanthal if your mod has that firmware.
 

fq06

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Yihi 350j, artery nugget 2 are two that I know of. I think most of the alien and newer smok mods have it, a ton of mods have the power or power plus or preheat or power curve or whatever each manufacturer wants to call it, it pushes more watts than what you are set at for ~1 second. Most you can adjust how long it kicks in and like Letitia mentioned, curve which gives you a power exponential control.

Great for getting big or fancy coils up to temp fast but letting it settle into the wattage that gives you a comfortable vape.

Kind of a noob user friendly TC like option to get fat coils up to temp quickly. And I don't say noob in a derogatory manner, for new vapers that are not technically inclined the gear can be all too much. Add TC and their heads spin.
 

SteveS45

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My Aliens do not have a preheat I know of but do have power ranges with light, normal and high.
 

fq06

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That's it.
You can reduce the power for a second with light, not do anything with normal or boost power with high.
I have no idea how long the effect lasts in your mod, it's probably in the manual but most mods are around a second. Better to have time adjustable, best to have an exponential curve. (Time or curve adjustable is better IMO because I take about a 1 second drag so non time adjustable is useless for me)

Or ultimate, figure out TC and push 50% higher wattage that the mod will pull back when needed to keep you at set temp.
 
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Carambrda

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What MOD's in particular? I am curious.
Both my RX2/3 and my RX300 have the option to use preheat whilst operating in power mode. But if using the original firmware by Wismec, it is useless IMO so this is why I use the ArcticFox firmware instead... it allows you to use a power curve for preheat, like, for example, one that looks like this:

power curve.jpg
Notice how, in the example I gave, the wattage changes every 0.1 second for the first 0.5 seconds of every puff. So it starts off at 110 percent, then 122 percent, and so on until the preheat finishes at 100 percent of the wattage you set in power mode. On the vast majority of mods that can support power curves, the curves have to be completely re-adjusted manually each time when you change the wattage on the mod up or down. Whereas with ArcticFox firmware, using the accompanying NToolbox software to edit the power curves, up to six different power curves can be uploaded via USB connection into the mod. In addition, because [in ArcticFox] each dot on a power curve represents a percentage number as opposed to representing a watts number, the power output numbers (watts) resulting from the power curves will be automatically scaled correctly each time when you change the wattage on the mod up or down. This percentages-based automatic scaling does not happen on something like, for example, the Boxer mod. For this reason alone, I'll never vape on any regulated mods other than ones that can support ArcticFox... excepting only some PWM mods─such as my X-Vault by Surric Vapes. That is, until someone invents a better preheat technology and implements it in a high powered regulated mod that's neither bass ackwards nor horrificly overpriced to someone who doesn't need temp control.
 

Brad Mitchell

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The idea behind turning up the power is because if your watts are too low then it is not vaporizing enough juice compared to the amount being brought in during inhale. Do that enough times and there will be too much juice in the cotton or on the coil which causes spit back.

Also doing it for only a few drags inst going to fix the situation. You might have to do a few more hits until it equalizes. That being said it may not fix all situations.
 

zephyr

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I wish someone could name a MOD that does this because I might own one to try it with!

A bunch do...even the 2 year old RX200 with the latest firmware; I figure any other Wismec mods would as well, and my Livepor 160 also has a more customizable wattage -change / preheat setting

Me, I don't like messing with it - I depend more on coil, wicking, and juice flow control to get my vape right

Edit again...my coils could benefit from a boost, but I prefer taking short puffs at high enough wattage to eliminate ramp up time anyway, plus there's the difference between the first cold vape and then every vape after where everything is already warm...


When my mod sits overnight, and juice is super saturating my coils, I close juice flow off and blow Out while powering a couple times, then wipe
 
Last edited:

zephyr

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That's it.
You can reduce the power for a second with light, not do anything with normal or boost power with high.
I have no idea how long the effect lasts in your mod, it's probably in the manual but most mods are around a second. Better to have time adjustable, best to have an exponential curve. (Time or curve adjustable is better IMO because I take about a 1 second drag so non time adjustable is useless for me)

Or ultimate, figure out TC and push 50% higher wattage that the mod will pull back when needed to keep you at set temp.

Yeah, a bunch of mods also have that soft/hard thing, I had a Tesla Nano 160 and on Hard it would boost power by about 1.2 volts for about a second. Wismec allows you to set specific wattage and time, and Livepor allows you to set a whole vape-s worth of changes, like 1 second +30 watts, +0 watts for 3 seconds, then even -30 or whatever watts for the rest of your vape
 

Carambrda

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A bunch do...even the 2 year old RX200 with the latest firmware; I figure any other Wismec mods would as well, and my Livepor 160 also has a more customizable wattage -change / preheat setting

Me, I don't like messing with it - I depend more on coil, wicking, and juice flow control to get my vape right

Edit again...my coils could benefit from a boost, but I prefer taking short puffs at high enough wattage to eliminate ramp up time anyway, plus there's the difference between the first cold vape and then every vape after where everything is already warm...


When my mod sits overnight, and juice is super saturating my coils, I close juice flow off and blow Out while powering a couple times, then wipe
I don't like messing with it either. That's precisely why I love the fact I only had to dial it in once... it took me less than five minutes to edit those numbers and upload them into my three Wismec mods (1 × RX2/3 and 2 × RX300).
 

Carambrda

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All DNA chipped mods have the preheat function. It can be adjusted in the evolv PC software
Last time I checked, it required a "cheat" to get it to work in power mode. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65540-preheat-in-kanthal-it-works/
In addition, the preheat only allows you to adjust the "Power", "Punch", and "Time Limit" so it doesn't even come close to what I wrote about using ArcticFox in my post: http://vapingunderground.com/threads/spitback-how-to-avoid-it.366613/#post-1942811
 
If you want to avoid spit in any rebuildable atomizer make sure the cotton is covering the juice channel tightly, but you also want it untaggled to absorb quickly and avoid dry hits so make sure to straigten it or simply comp it with your tweezer and cut the excess.
Again if you want to avoit spitting cover the juice channel tightly
 

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