Springs

[Warhawk-AVG]

Came across a post in another forum I go to

Concerning springs and the volts/power loss in springs

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35228

More or less the jist of it was even the high dollar super metal springs have loss...a simple mod/upgrade massively reduces the loss in the springs by providing a better lower resistance path for current to flow

The mod/upgrade I am referring to is a solder braid upgrade, soldering in a piece of solder wick and the overall loss in the spring is cut to almost nothing, AND it also will help keep from overheating and/or damaging springs

If you have a mod that has a spring..try this cheap trick and see if it helps it hit better

 

[Jackson]

This braided shield works fine.

No reason to solder it (looks like it was in the pic you posted.) Just flare it out and shove it in.

 

[Celtic Fog]

This braided shield works fine.

No reason to solder it (looks like it was in the pic you posted.) Just flare it out and shove it in.

I just split a coaxial cable and stole the center conductor copper wire out of it, made a fire switch spring for my vanilla clone...holy shit.....fucking clouds man! I was losing more power to that pussy spring than I would have ever imagined...now my switch is not all floppy wobbly and sissified. Boom!

 

[Donald Bickers]

I just split a coaxial cable and stole the center conductor copper wire out of it, made a fire switch spring for my vanilla clone...holy shit.....fucking clouds man! I was losing more power to that pussy spring than I would have ever imagined...now my switch is not all floppy wobbly and sissified. Boom!

im not following whats up here,,,,i have a nemesis that doesn't fire worth a shit,i thought it was the pin,,,am I missing something

 

[Celtic Fog]

my spring was a little flimsy spring, and it was allowing for massive voltage loss....if your mod is firing, but seams weak, it might need a new spring as well. Take a pic of your spring if you can and post it up here. Ill take a pick of my old spring next to my new one and post it here so you can see the difference in springs.

 

[Donald Bickers]

is this what want

 

[Donald Bickers]

is this what want

this spring aint flimsy,i was wondering what you all were doing with the cable wire

 

[Celtic Fog]

looks like a beefy spring. Do you know what metal it is made out of?

 

[Donald Bickers]

looks like a beefy spring. Do you know what metal it is made out of?

I really don't know,,it looks like silver plate to me,,,if that even makes sense

 

[Donald Bickers]

if it helps ,,,this nemi came from angels

 

[Krom]

I had to replace the spring in my Cartel. If i built below .3ohms it would heat up the button cap. Took a trip to Menards and found myself a 3/4inch steel spring, fairly large gauge, and now i dont get heatup unless im under .15ohms. Does the copper braiding just have to bridge from one side of the spring contact to the other? I'd like to use my old spring because the new one has a much harder tension.

 

[TheWestPole]

I just split a coaxial cable and stole the center conductor copper wire out of it, made a fire switch spring for my vanilla clone...holy shit.....fucking clouds man! I was losing more power to that pussy spring than I would have ever imagined...now my switch is not all floppy wobbly and sissified. Boom!

I borrowed your idea last week @Celtic Fog, except for a solid core electrical application.

About what you did, I was really surprised that it was springy and hard enough for a coil spring. Did you heat treat it?

 

[TheWestPole]

BTW I do find grinding the ends flat on my springs, particularly at the battery end, solves most of my v-droop problems. Don't have a photo right now but you can imagine it I'm sure.

 

[Celtic Fog]

I borrowed your idea last week @Celtic Fog, except for a solid core electrical application.

About what you did, I was really surprised that it was springy and hard enough for a coil spring. Did you heat treat it?

did not heat it first, but I probably should have. Here is a pic of the old spring and the new one. I am trying to make a newer one with a more traditional shape to it, just having a tuff time with it.

 

[Celtic Fog]

I had to replace the spring in my Cartel. If i built below .3ohms it would heat up the button cap. Took a trip to Menards and found myself a 3/4inch steel spring, fairly large gauge, and now i dont get heatup unless im under .15ohms. Does the copper braiding just have to bridge from one side of the spring contact to the other? I'd like to use my old spring because the new one has a much harder tension.

just has to bridge yes, from top of spring to bottom of the button or spring.

 

[TheWestPole]

did not heat it first, but I probably should have. Here is a pic of the old spring and the new one. I am trying to make a newer one with a more traditional shape to it, just having a tuff time with it.
View attachment 10219

I'm curious whether it holds it's shape and tension over time. Please let us know. I'm sick of ordering springs that I'm just going to modify anyway.

That said, I'm definitely going to try one. How can I resist(ance) it?

 

[Celtic Fog]

well it only took around 5 inches of the wire, and i have around 95 and a half feet left....lol. I can make one every month and be stocked up for quite a while. I was trying to find one for sale, but the only ones I found were 5 bucks and the upgrade spring is 24...so far its been holding up like a champ, no more warm button and much much better vape production.

 

[TheWestPole]

For what it's worth, these are my go-to medium to large mod springs. Good quality and cheap.



http://www.madvapes.com/5ml-6mg-13350.html