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SS wire for Temp Control?
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f1r3b1rd
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I can't speak to any of the others, other than the sx350j, and in that case i do believe you are correct. Albeit, those are at home and I can't verify it. But, in any case I understand the operational reason for doing it that way.
Why direct anyone to Busardo? Sure he talks a lot, but what qualifies him to be an authoritative source for how a mod should be used in TC? Why not just go to the Evolv forum and ask the owners? Makes more sense to me to get this from engineers and programmers.
lordmage
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as i understand TC the reason to lock ohms is so the board knows the baseline to adjust power to keep your temp at or below the set point. keep in mind the board is reading a known resistance on the curve so when you take ti at a room temp and lock it at say .36 when you use it and the temp raises the ohms you get an accurate or close to accurate vape. without locking when you fire the resistance would go up there for the amount of power needed would change when compare to a lock resistance.
now dna may be different but that's the way i understand it
from http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf
"If you are using temperature protection, be careful to only attach new atomizers that have cooled to room temperature. If a new atomizer is attached to the DNA 200 before it has cooled down, the temperature may read and protect incorrectly until the new atomizer cools."
"The DNA 200 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance"
"To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 200 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure"
which tells me that some locking of the ohms maybe needed
now dna may be different but that's the way i understand it
from http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf
"If you are using temperature protection, be careful to only attach new atomizers that have cooled to room temperature. If a new atomizer is attached to the DNA 200 before it has cooled down, the temperature may read and protect incorrectly until the new atomizer cools."
"The DNA 200 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance"
"To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 200 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure"
which tells me that some locking of the ohms maybe needed
We are talking 2 different things here. Many TC mods you "set" initial resistance with a coil at room temp for baseline. Most Yihi boards do this by pressing + and - button at same time.
Locking ohms on a DNA 200 is something different. And you don't have to set initial resistance. The board does it automatically when you attach a coil at room temp.
As far as SS and this discussion that's not the problem. And my 430 needing a higher TCR that the established one it isn't the cold reading. It's room temp when I connect.
Locking ohms on a DNA 200 is something different. And you don't have to set initial resistance. The board does it automatically when you attach a coil at room temp.
As far as SS and this discussion that's not the problem. And my 430 needing a higher TCR that the established one it isn't the cold reading. It's room temp when I connect.
I have tried various builds with SS and spaced coils just provide a consistent vape. I tried a dual parallel 6 wraps, 2.5 ID and was able to get it to pass the dry cotton test.
Locked the ohms in, then it threw out a dry cotton message when the cotton was saturated. I increased the ohms and got it to perform nice. After vaping on it for about 30 mins i literally watched the ohms increase WHILE in locked mode.
So i switched profiles and set it up on the fly, seemed to get better.
I never have issues with spaced coils.
IMO, TI is easier and more reliable to work with. The DNA software seems to know this material very well.
Locked the ohms in, then it threw out a dry cotton message when the cotton was saturated. I increased the ohms and got it to perform nice. After vaping on it for about 30 mins i literally watched the ohms increase WHILE in locked mode.
So i switched profiles and set it up on the fly, seemed to get better.
I never have issues with spaced coils.
IMO, TI is easier and more reliable to work with. The DNA software seems to know this material very well.
You see my point though? And I am by no means one to point fingers because as soon as I think I have it all figured out there comes the monkey wrench. I'm just not finding Phil to be much an authority on anything. He's opinionated but not what I consider very technically minded. As for the way YiHi boards function I couldn't tell you. All I know is Evolv actually advises not locking ohms as a matter of habit, but more as a way to counter instability issues with a setup.
f1r3b1rd
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I couldn't find the post but James had addressed everything on the evolv early adopter forum. -James being the chief engineer with evolv; and the brain behind the DNA.
For the DNA board, the atty lock was a workaround because some mods have poor grounding (ie Hana) which can cause slight fluctuations in total resistance. It doesn't take much of a fluctuation to make tc go bananas- as we all know. Essentially 'the heartbeat' is just that, a hearbeat on the scope only its referred to as refinement- the board checks the atty periodically to monitor it for resistance changes and to help keep it in sync. The atty lock is a workaround causing it to use the locked in resistance as the baseline rather changing it with the heartbeat. This is also why you don't always get asked if it's a new atty when you swap. If the total resistance is a difference of 25% or more the board makes the assumption and automatically uses the present resistance as a baseline. Additionally to the poor connection at the mods 510, the same goes for a poor connection at the post. I was reminded of this thread this morning rebuilding my crius and watching the leg snap-piece of shit post screw.
He also mentions yihi's methodology for tc, which is similar to a welder. Where evolv dances around the set temp, yihi slaps it with power intermittently keeping it elevated.
As to Phil, I've exchanged a few emails with him about tc where the kf4 is concerned. He is a smart dude, and knows his stuff on electronics and has the right outlook that numbers dont lie. I don't vape th same way as he does so his opinions on performance I ignore, but his graphs, charts and the math I find VERY useful.
Lets be honest for a newer vapor or one looking to get started from ego to hobbyist, his reviews would be helpful and as a mouthpiece for the industry, we could do worse. His opinion on gear may be scewed but his assimilation of information is fantastic. Im bias though, his reviews helped me make the switch. Besides, Can you picture the bogan talking to the FDA?
For the DNA board, the atty lock was a workaround because some mods have poor grounding (ie Hana) which can cause slight fluctuations in total resistance. It doesn't take much of a fluctuation to make tc go bananas- as we all know. Essentially 'the heartbeat' is just that, a hearbeat on the scope only its referred to as refinement- the board checks the atty periodically to monitor it for resistance changes and to help keep it in sync. The atty lock is a workaround causing it to use the locked in resistance as the baseline rather changing it with the heartbeat. This is also why you don't always get asked if it's a new atty when you swap. If the total resistance is a difference of 25% or more the board makes the assumption and automatically uses the present resistance as a baseline. Additionally to the poor connection at the mods 510, the same goes for a poor connection at the post. I was reminded of this thread this morning rebuilding my crius and watching the leg snap-piece of shit post screw.
He also mentions yihi's methodology for tc, which is similar to a welder. Where evolv dances around the set temp, yihi slaps it with power intermittently keeping it elevated.
As to Phil, I've exchanged a few emails with him about tc where the kf4 is concerned. He is a smart dude, and knows his stuff on electronics and has the right outlook that numbers dont lie. I don't vape th same way as he does so his opinions on performance I ignore, but his graphs, charts and the math I find VERY useful.
Lets be honest for a newer vapor or one looking to get started from ego to hobbyist, his reviews would be helpful and as a mouthpiece for the industry, we could do worse. His opinion on gear may be scewed but his assimilation of information is fantastic. Im bias though, his reviews helped me make the switch. Besides, Can you picture the bogan talking to the FDA?
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Well put, and I know I'm probably too hard on PB. I suppose it's easy to forget how much those types videos helped back when I didn't know jack shit. In that regard PB is definitely one of the most helpful and informative out there. The Bogan....LOL! So if you have Rip, Bogan and The Modified vapor standing in a row, my reaction is I wonder if he's on m*th. Man I KNOW he must be on m*th. Holy shit, am I on m*th?
He is actually a gentleman, polite and articulate, and he DOES talk to the 'Strailian equilevant of the FDA.
Then you need to re-read the posts then. I am not the one that brought Phil into this. I am the one that knows what ohms lock is for. You are directing this at the wrong person.
f1r3b1rd
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Well, I only know him via the personality he wants projected - through his you tube videos.
But if you say so. He is hilarious though.
Huh? No, cancel that. I really don't care enough to hear more. But I'm glad you know what ohms lock is for, that's a plus.
f1r3b1rd
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How does the evic do it? And how is with ss?I don't know why this thread turned so Evolve centric, but they don't own the market.
You have to take each mod on a case by case basis.
Some have a user "padlock"... some don't.
Most just auto populate the register and hold that value.
Some use a button press to tell the mod "this is my coil's res".
Some have a New/Same query. I'm seeing more and more of that one.
In my small sample of six, I have combinations of all of the above.
In general then (uh oh), the padlock serves two purposes...
It helps stabilize the TC with dodgy connections, and it allows you to refill a hot tank.
Believe me, even with the padlock unlocked, you would know instantly if your mod used the warm res value next time you fired it.
I have been using TC with ss on the Evic vct and I must say for the price of this mod, it does a great job. You lock in resistance and your off to Vape land. If you change coils to a resistance higher than what was on it, the mod will ask you if it's a new coil. It won't ask if the resistance is lower. It will just read the resistance and then you lock it in. Seemed weird to me but it works oddly enough
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Yes I've had the xcube go wacky on me. There was not a doubt in my mind it was malfunctioning. That was after several attempts to fix its incessant problem of reading resistance incorrrectly. But if I have ohms locked how do I know there's a problem with a connection? If all it does is cheat itself into firing anyway, how is that safer? I look at ohms lock the same way I do a donut spare on a car. Good for getting you somewhere to get fixed, but not something you want to run on all the time. But hey, just another in a long line of opinions.
Works great for me. I'm using 317L and narry a problem. Don't run it all the time because I prefer titanium, but I do have one tank with SS set up and that little mod just surprises me with killer performance.
You are having a discussion with the wrong poster. Just trying to help you catch up. But if you don't care, feel free to keep quoting people and correcting things that say the same thing you do. At least you know how to quote. That's a plus.
In general then (uh oh), the padlock serves two purposes...
It helps stabilize the TC with dodgy connections, and it allows you to refill a hot tank.
Believe me, with the padlock unlocked, you would know instantly if your mod used the warm res value next time you fired it.
But they don't.
LOL there is the third reason to use the"lock" ... Your build might perhaps possibly be just a miniscule tiny bit low to fire, after pulsing your coils..... And you are feeling lazy.
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MY wife's runs SS just as well as the M class, it's a really good mini mod for the money.
Well I'll be a son of a bitch.... I built 3 decks today. I think I finally got a couple things figured out. 8.5 wraps of 24g at 2.5 mm. Biggest coil I could fit on a Crius. Spaced well and not touching the posts....
Guess what, the TCR for 430 SS is 138 and not 170. First pulse full power... Woah... Switch to proper profile, just fine. Lowered punch to 120w, and 480F is great.
So while contact coils I make work. And it's consistent performance... Spaced coils are what is correct.
Guess what, the TCR for 430 SS is 138 and not 170. First pulse full power... Woah... Switch to proper profile, just fine. Lowered punch to 120w, and 480F is great.
So while contact coils I make work. And it's consistent performance... Spaced coils are what is correct.
Stainless wire is somewhat treated by the general vaping public as if as long as it's SS then it will work in temp control. This is true if the mod used is set up for it. But it's not a one size fits all material as the various grades have different temp coefficients. In the case of DNA boards you can upload the one for the wire you're using but for a device without that ability you need to use the grade for which it is programmed. There is a pretty large difference between 316 and 430. Here's a good article. http://m.imgur.com/a/VwEAo
The TCR for 430 SS is 138... Or 0.00138. However, contact coils seem to throw off TC whether it nickle or SS. I had to bump up my TCR to 170 just to get TC to fire the coil right. For a spaced coil it fires right with the correct TCR of 138. Contact coils definitely effects TC.
If I have to move it up, that means I have to tell it to fire at like 600-700 just to get 400-500 temp. That's fine since it fires right. But I couldn't tell you if the coil is heating even. My guess is its not. Just across wraps.
If I have to move it up, that means I have to tell it to fire at like 600-700 just to get 400-500 temp. That's fine since it fires right. But I couldn't tell you if the coil is heating even. My guess is its not. Just across wraps.
Honestly, I'm still having a hard time wrapping my head around this. In any circuit you can get a short. So a wire 10 cm long between +/- terminals has X resistance. Coil it, loop it and touch only the tops together now you have a short. Not the distance between the two +/- terminals is 2 cm. Who cares... Except now 2 cm of wire only has 1/5 the resistance of the straight wire.
So this is the part I don't get. I can only assume. I going to use numbers straight out of my ass to illustrate the point. I assume measuring the effect of temp on resistance is on a material at a equal temp. So 2 cm of wire at the same temp for the whole length of the wire. 2 cm wire with 1 ohm at 100 degrees. Heat it up to 200 degrees it has 2 ohms. But if 1 cm is 300 degrees, and 1 cm is 100 degrees, the average is 200 degrees. 2 ohms.
If a coil is contacting only at the top, and current is shorted, I could see the short heating up much hotter than the rest of the coil. I could see TC limiting power because it sees the rise. The top is hotter than the bottom and the average is the rise. But if there is a short, then that 10 cm wire is now only 2 cm. And the natural resistance of the wire would show that. 10 cm with 1 ohm is now 2 cm with 0.2 ohm resistance.
The part I don't get is why does my mod see the full resistance of the full length of the wire, but TC seems to only see the rise in one small part of the wire. Path of least resistance should be measured. A 10 cm length of wire shows 1 ohm on mod, not 0.2 of a shorted contact coil? I hope that makes sense.
So this is the part I don't get. I can only assume. I going to use numbers straight out of my ass to illustrate the point. I assume measuring the effect of temp on resistance is on a material at a equal temp. So 2 cm of wire at the same temp for the whole length of the wire. 2 cm wire with 1 ohm at 100 degrees. Heat it up to 200 degrees it has 2 ohms. But if 1 cm is 300 degrees, and 1 cm is 100 degrees, the average is 200 degrees. 2 ohms.
If a coil is contacting only at the top, and current is shorted, I could see the short heating up much hotter than the rest of the coil. I could see TC limiting power because it sees the rise. The top is hotter than the bottom and the average is the rise. But if there is a short, then that 10 cm wire is now only 2 cm. And the natural resistance of the wire would show that. 10 cm with 1 ohm is now 2 cm with 0.2 ohm resistance.
The part I don't get is why does my mod see the full resistance of the full length of the wire, but TC seems to only see the rise in one small part of the wire. Path of least resistance should be measured. A 10 cm length of wire shows 1 ohm on mod, not 0.2 of a shorted contact coil? I hope that makes sense.
I only can get 316L to work on my Evic VTC mini single coil, and on my DNA200's.
The wires coefficient is MUCH lower than NI200 or SS, with the Evolv created profiles, my Efusion was rubbish on 316L.
So were my other two.
So I managed to find a CSV thanks to the help of some forum members-but SS is still sub-par for TC compared to NI200 and TI, at least in my case.
I was really wishing it was good. I ordered some extra 316L incase it was the wire I had from a hardware type store causing issue, it was not.
So I know have 3 rolls of SS, 2 316L 26G rolls and a roll of 317L, which I have not managed to find a CSV for that works, the efusion one also does not work correctly.
Even WITH the better Csv file in place, in escribe once it hits temp it is all over the place, jumping up and down.
If anyone knows a good CSV for SS, could you please let me know?
I wanted this wire so I could not get confused, as I could use it in power mode as well as TC-but due to its performance I will be sticking to NI200 and TI for the foreseeable future, and kanthal for standard build.
Its a shame-but oh well. I am hoping as tech improves, we will have smooth SS TC one day soonish.
If not, TI does the job well for me.
Does anyone know of a Mod that actually manages to do SS TC out of the box, preferably dual battery?
If so, that will be January's mod, I like the idea of SS a lot, but am not impressed so far for TC use.
The wires coefficient is MUCH lower than NI200 or SS, with the Evolv created profiles, my Efusion was rubbish on 316L.
So were my other two.
So I managed to find a CSV thanks to the help of some forum members-but SS is still sub-par for TC compared to NI200 and TI, at least in my case.
I was really wishing it was good. I ordered some extra 316L incase it was the wire I had from a hardware type store causing issue, it was not.
So I know have 3 rolls of SS, 2 316L 26G rolls and a roll of 317L, which I have not managed to find a CSV for that works, the efusion one also does not work correctly.
Even WITH the better Csv file in place, in escribe once it hits temp it is all over the place, jumping up and down.
If anyone knows a good CSV for SS, could you please let me know?
I wanted this wire so I could not get confused, as I could use it in power mode as well as TC-but due to its performance I will be sticking to NI200 and TI for the foreseeable future, and kanthal for standard build.
Its a shame-but oh well. I am hoping as tech improves, we will have smooth SS TC one day soonish.
If not, TI does the job well for me.
Does anyone know of a Mod that actually manages to do SS TC out of the box, preferably dual battery?
If so, that will be January's mod, I like the idea of SS a lot, but am not impressed so far for TC use.
Hi man, would you mind PM'ing me the UD SS CSV? I have not tried that one-it could be the answer to my prayers.
OK-I take what I said back. On my Hotcig V2-I have 3 different SS profiles, one is named stainless, one SS test, and one Efusion, so must be from the efusion.
It is actually working very well with the new wire in a royal hunter last night.
I need to log out of mac and into windows, and find exactly which CSV is this 'SS Test" as I can not remember, but it seems to work rather smoothly and no dry hits.
Maybe SS IS what I wanted after all.
It is actually working very well with the new wire in a royal hunter last night.
I need to log out of mac and into windows, and find exactly which CSV is this 'SS Test" as I can not remember, but it seems to work rather smoothly and no dry hits.
Maybe SS IS what I wanted after all.
So are you using contact coils?
So do you know how to make your own TCR curve?
Do you know how to find the TCR of the curves you are using?
When you say your temp is jumping all over the place... Do you mean what you feel, or watching it on the graph on device monitor?
f1r3b1rd
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What do you mean by contacting at the top?
I think I know what you're saying but I've been staring at this for 30minutes and can't think of a way to type what im thinking. Without a chalkboard.
If I understand your question correctly: Perhaps because the short circuit is imperfect, and the rest of the wire is contributing to the circuit?
f1r3b1rd
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I always think of a microcoil like im building a resister. So the whole coil is a resister with + and - legs.
When it heats from the inside out that's electronic energy, transferring into heat energy from the center point between magnetic + and -. That glow would be the hottest part.
Im guessing that the heat from what part or not is because the metal being an alloy, is showing imperfections, or from the coil not being completely equidistant between wraps. That's why strumming a microcoil helps solve the issue of it nor glowing from the inside out.
As to why the board doesn't see it? The board will only see the coil as one unit over all, not sectional.
Keep in mind, im going to see this from the electronics angle, I don't know a fucking thing about metallurgy or fluid dynamics or anything else.
I know electronics and mechanics and sometimes I wonder about that. Lol
So take my answer as pure speculation and enjoyment of the topic
I am using contact coils at the moment.
I do know now, just today, how to make a custom curve via steam engines wire wizard, I got the wires specs from crazy wire. I do NOT know how to create them without the wire wizard, I admit that.
My 317L would not work-but using the wire wizard, entering everything manually, such as wraps, diameter, gauge of wire ETC it is now working quite well with 317L.
I know how to fins the basic curves for SS ETC, but did not realize that gauge and wraps affect the CSV, but it is working fantastically now.
I mean by jumping all over the place-just in steam engine, one CSV I have seems to be pretty smooth, but does not prevent dry hits (But I understand TC is still working, just not to MY setup).
The 317L curve I created in wire wizard, is seeming to work well with 317L. It is the best so far, even to the stage of no dry hits, but vapour production is good, and temperature seems to be around the right area.
Now I know how to make the custom CSV's, I have a feeling I will have a much better time with SS.
.
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Would I be better to use a spaced coil or contact coils?
Also entering the individual data to create a custom CSV should be enough should it not-or is it better to create your own in Escribe? If I knew how I would, I understand you drag the points up and down effecting the TC, but I do not know to where.
I know wires basic coefficients, but do NOT know how to create a CSV in Escribe, only with wire wizard, Escribe actually recommended that when I clicked custom materials.
Do you know of anywhere I can learn to make my own curves without using wire wizard-or is that not necessary?
Thank you for the help here
.EDIT: Now I am using the crazy wire, I thought I might try the Efusion settings to see how they work.
All of my SS builds of different wire type are now working.
I was mistaken. I think the Efusion SS settings will be going on all of my devices now.
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You just put in your own TCR. Under the graph on your profile is. 4 buttons. One is the button to click to load your CVS. The far right "special"... Click that. 2 options, click the bottom one... Says custom TCR or something like that. A dialog box pops up.... Put your number in. 0.00???
On steam engine, when you pick a wire... In the blue box on the left of the screen, where all the values are, it has the TCR. So if you pick 316, at the top you should see 910 x10/6. So the TCR is 0.00091. I just say that so you can see what value you actually have.
You can't enter a number below 0.00100. Even though you can load CVS with lower values. So your options are to enter 0.001. That isn't crazy off from what you should have. It's a bump. Enter that and see what you think.
Or you could use the CVS in steam engine for SS 304. That is 105. Again not crazy. Lots of people use the 304 file for 316/317 wire.
Or... There is an option in Steam Engine to make your own CVS. You enter your value, and it calculates 8 points and makes a CVS. I haven't done that, so I can't tell you how to click through it. But it is there and is easy.
Or... If you enter a value in escribe, it will plot one point. The resistance at standard room temp at 68F. Then just add a few more point for added accuracy. At the bottom of the graph on the left there are 3 buttons. Delete, split,?. Click "split" and go to 600F on the graph and click it and it will add a point. I go through and split it at every 100 degrees. There you go, you made your own graph.
On steam engine, when you pick a wire... In the blue box on the left of the screen, where all the values are, it has the TCR. So if you pick 316, at the top you should see 910 x10/6. So the TCR is 0.00091. I just say that so you can see what value you actually have.
You can't enter a number below 0.00100. Even though you can load CVS with lower values. So your options are to enter 0.001. That isn't crazy off from what you should have. It's a bump. Enter that and see what you think.
Or you could use the CVS in steam engine for SS 304. That is 105. Again not crazy. Lots of people use the 304 file for 316/317 wire.
Or... There is an option in Steam Engine to make your own CVS. You enter your value, and it calculates 8 points and makes a CVS. I haven't done that, so I can't tell you how to click through it. But it is there and is easy.
Or... If you enter a value in escribe, it will plot one point. The resistance at standard room temp at 68F. Then just add a few more point for added accuracy. At the bottom of the graph on the left there are 3 buttons. Delete, split,?. Click "split" and go to 600F on the graph and click it and it will add a point. I go through and split it at every 100 degrees. There you go, you made your own graph.
Oh I knew how to do the special and load in the wires coefficient method, I didn't realise that was a custom one woops.
Thank you for the detailed reply-its much appreciated.
I got the DNA200's so I could tinker and get the best vape, and that is what I am doing mostly, so I feel that they was well worth it.
I have realised now that the efusion profiles work quite well with the crazy wire. It was me mixing up atomizers.
If I find that I don't like this in the long run, I will try the 304 CSV for example. I guess with that though it does not offer full dry hit prevention?
Not that it matters anyway-I redrip well before I get a dry hit, and by then the cotton is actually pretty dry, so TC is working as it should-it is just me tinkering around causing issue.
Now its working with the Evolv created Efusion profiles though, I think I may as well load these onto my other DNA200's as they seem to work about the best. If I find another I prefer I can always change it, which in my eye, is the beauty of the device
. Thank you for your help.
No sweat. Here's my take on dry hit prevention. Cotton starts to burn around 400F. But actual vape at 400 is cold and weak. VG juice boiling point is like 540F. So it has to get to that to vaporize. With nic and some flavorings it will be lower. I want to say PG is 370F.
So with PG/VG and an actual nice vape, we are well over the point dry cotton begins to burn. But even at 550F, we are still well below 700-800 a coil could get. And a dry or burnt hit on TC is nothing compared to the choking harsh ass crappie you get with non TC.
So I don't concern myself too much with burnt hit prevention. I just appreciate it's greatly diminished in TC.
So with PG/VG and an actual nice vape, we are well over the point dry cotton begins to burn. But even at 550F, we are still well below 700-800 a coil could get. And a dry or burnt hit on TC is nothing compared to the choking harsh ass crappie you get with non TC.
So I don't concern myself too much with burnt hit prevention. I just appreciate it's greatly diminished in TC.
What does dual coil mode do?
Does it? I Highly rate the EVIC VTC Mini-its my favourite single battery mod
. I will try later-I may be confused and it was TI that it did not work well in. Mine is on firmware 2.0 though and with the ego one mega, not the Tron tank. I bought the tron tank though, as its my fiancees favourite colour, so gave her the original and am using the Tron. Same tank Essentially-but her name is Cheyenne (Pronounced shy-anne) and the colour is Cyan, so not only is it her favourite colour, its also very close to her name so she likes it even more lol.
EDIT: OK, on the EVIC VTC mini SS does not even work with either 316L or 317L, the wattage immediately drops to 5 watts and outputs no vapour. It must of been TI I was using.
I will try a Uwell crown coil in it later, see if it works with that. Not sure whats going on there if I am honest.
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Ahh, I have been making pure contact coils with SS. I knew that NI200 HAD to be spaced, but I did not realise with SS the TCR is correct with a spaced coil.
I will make some spaced coils-and see if there is an improvement. This might be the last key to the joys of SS in TC mode.
I was just mentioning the Tron tank-I tend to go off on different subjects, sorry about that.
I am mainly using SS 316L on my DNA200's with various drippers, not the EVIC VTC mini with the tron tank, I just added that in. It was unnecessary information-but I tend to do that, I apologise for that, but I can't seem to not write what I am thinking in the moment since early 2014.
When I WAS using the Evic VTC mini-it was with the Uwell crown SS coils, but I HAVE used the Evic VTC mini with the Tron tank with a 316L buld using the CLR coil heads, it was just an example of it.
I know you have to lock resistance when the coil is cold/room temp.
I have it working, quite well now on my DNA200's, but it still seems slightly lacking, so I will try spaced coils.
This will be on a RDA single coil to start with.
I will try spaced coils in a little while, and report back what I found.
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OK-Non contact seems to definitely be the way forward for me. Vast improvement.
Thats what I love about here, learning how to get the best performance out of devices, helping others where I can, and just the majority of people on here. It's the reason I use two forums-here and POTV's as I am in the UK.
But non contact works great on the Evolv made Efusion profiles, only used 316L to test but I will try 317L too later spaced, see if that also works better.
I think now, SS may be what I use for future builds. It does not matter if I get confused, and use it in non TC mode, so is fantastic for me.
How is everyone else getting on with SS, and do you have a preferred type? As I am quite new to using SS for TC, I have 2 reels of 316L, a reel of 317L, and some 316 on the way.
I may find a preference for one type, or may find them all to be as good as each other-but I will post on here my results.
I made a 5 Wrap 26 gauge SS 316L 2MM ID single coil to test the spaced method.
Spaced from now on baby! Also no dry hits at all, which is a huge bonus.
Thats what I love about here, learning how to get the best performance out of devices, helping others where I can, and just the majority of people on here. It's the reason I use two forums-here and POTV's as I am in the UK.
But non contact works great on the Evolv made Efusion profiles, only used 316L to test but I will try 317L too later spaced, see if that also works better.
I think now, SS may be what I use for future builds. It does not matter if I get confused, and use it in non TC mode, so is fantastic for me.
How is everyone else getting on with SS, and do you have a preferred type? As I am quite new to using SS for TC, I have 2 reels of 316L, a reel of 317L, and some 316 on the way.
I may find a preference for one type, or may find them all to be as good as each other-but I will post on here my results.
I made a 5 Wrap 26 gauge SS 316L 2MM ID single coil to test the spaced method.
Spaced from now on baby! Also no dry hits at all, which is a huge bonus.
OK 317L Is working very well with the Efusion CSV profile as well. I am happy with SS now as a TC wire.
Shows how just the tiniest differences can make huge difference to your vaping experience.
Shows how just the tiniest differences can make huge difference to your vaping experience.
OK-I am having MUCH better results with 317L than 316L. Has anyone else found this? As there was even a long thread at the Evolv forum about SS316/316L not working correctly, with TC turning off and firing as a standard non TC coil ETC.
317L has not done that once-yet.
A few days of each one, and hopefully I will have SS TC down and working well, even with 317L, glad I got the 317L actually.
317L has not done that once-yet.
A few days of each one, and hopefully I will have SS TC down and working well, even with 317L, glad I got the 317L actually.
martinelias
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How does ss vape in power mode compared to a1 kanthal or nichrome80?
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Not too bad if I am honest. It seems to need about the same power as kanthal, maybe a TINY bit higher, thats with 316L, I haven't tried 317L in power mode yet, only temp.
I seriously doubt the alloy has anything to do with it. The differences between 316 and 317 are miniscule. It's more probable the 316 you think you have isn't 316. 316 is n9 different for our purposes than 317.