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stainless steel coil builds

robot zombie

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What gauge are you working with? What kind of vape are you shooting for? What atty and power source are you building for?
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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^ Basically what he said, i mean what is your question?
 

Mazam

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Yeah, i'm sitting here attempting my first builds and feel pretty in the dark myself. Looking around online and on youtube i'm not finding much in terms of direct information on the actual building itself.

28g/316L. Currently got a dual coil contact build going, 8-9 3mm wraps looking like it's ohm'ing out a bit above .4'ish (depending on the device i put it on). Not sure if i should or shouldn't be attempting a dry burn, but a few quick pulses at 15w to see if my coil is glowing from in the inside out already has a blue tint building up on them.

This is bad, yes?
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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Yeah, i'm sitting here attempting my first builds and feel pretty in the dark myself. Looking around online and on youtube i'm not finding much in terms of direct information on the actual building itself.

28g/316L. Currently got a dual coil contact build going, 8-9 3mm wraps looking like it's ohm'ing out a bit above .4'ish (depending on the device i put it on). Not sure if i should or shouldn't be attempting a dry burn, but a few quick pulses at 15w to see if my coil is glowing from in the inside out already has a blue tint building up on them.

This is bad, yes?

This is normal with nichrome 80
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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Yeah, i'm sitting here attempting my first builds and feel pretty in the dark myself. Looking around online and on youtube i'm not finding much in terms of direct information on the actual building itself.

28g/316L. Currently got a dual coil contact build going, 8-9 3mm wraps looking like it's ohm'ing out a bit above .4'ish (depending on the device i put it on). Not sure if i should or shouldn't be attempting a dry burn, but a few quick pulses at 15w to see if my coil is glowing from in the inside out already has a blue tint building up on them.

This is bad, yes?
I think with SS too, not with kanthal
 

robot zombie

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SS can be dry-burned, as in it won't melt too easily if you only pulse. And yes, it will turn some rather strange colors when it oxidizes. You can see deep crimsons and purples, yellows and blues. With enough pulsing, those outer layers will give way to black splotches.

Heat takes away the corrosion-resistant properties of stainless steel. While this outer layer of rust helps prevent shorts in contact coils, the safety of vaping on steel after corrosion has set in is dubious. Additionally, there have been concerns regarding whether or not the heat generated causes the coils to give off significant amounts of toxic hexavalent chromium. The same chromium that once made the steel corrosion resistant is released in a toxic form when heat is involved. It is known that hexavalent chromium is produced when SS is heated to sufficient temperatures. What has yet to be seen is how that shakes down when SS is used as a direct-contact heating element for vaping.

It's probably best to err on the side of caution, though personally, I don't think it's a huge concern... ...just something worth bearing into consideration. It is theoretically possible, but it seems unlikely that hexavalent chromium would be present in large quantities under normal vaping conditions. The risk is probably comparable to that of dry-burning nichrome, which also contains chromium - more than SS, even.

That being said, you could always rinse your fresh coils off after pulsing and working the shorts out. If any nasties are being generated, that would be the time when you'd be seeing the most of them. Some people also dry-burn with a cooler heat source, such as a lighter and use brushes to scrape off the residue as measures for minimizing the risk of overexposure to toxic compounds. I'm not entirely sure that this is necessary, myself, but I also don't think it's a bad idea.
 

Neunerball

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Where do you get 316L wire from? I've looked at all places, I usually get my wires from, but couldn't find any 316L
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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SS can be dry-burned, as in it won't melt too easily if you only pulse. And yes, it will turn some rather strange colors when it oxidizes. You can see deep crimsons and purples, yellows and blues. With enough pulsing, those outer layers will give way to black splotches.

Heat takes away the corrosion-resistant properties of stainless steel. While this outer layer of rust helps prevent shorts in contact coils, the safety of vaping on steel after corrosion has set in is dubious. Additionally, there have been concerns regarding whether or not the heat generated causes the coils to give off significant amounts of toxic hexavalent chromium. The same chromium that once made the steel corrosion resistant is released in a toxic form when heat is involved. It is known that hexavalent chromium is produced when SS is heated to sufficient temperatures. What has yet to be seen is how that shakes down when SS is used as a direct-contact heating element for vaping.

It's probably best to err on the side of caution, though personally, I don't think it's a huge concern... ...just something worth bearing into consideration. It is theoretically possible, but it seems unlikely that hexavalent chromium would be present in large quantities under normal vaping conditions. The risk is probably comparable to that of dry-burning nichrome, which also contains chromium - more than SS, even.

That being said, you could always rinse your fresh coils off after pulsing and working the shorts out. If any nasties are being generated, that would be the time when you'd be seeing the most of them. Some people also dry-burn with a cooler heat source, such as a lighter and use brushes to scrape off the residue as measures for minimizing the risk of overexposure to toxic compounds. I'm not entirely sure that this is necessary, myself, but I also don't think it's a bad idea.
Yea ive looked at some studies and it seems temps when vaping arent hot enough to get toxic, youd have to get close to melting point
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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Where do you get 316L wire from? I've looked at all places, I usually get my wires from, but couldn't find any 316L
You can get it from originvape, i think they have it, but i got mine from jet.com, only difference is mine says its for beading which makes it wayy cheaper,its the same wire
 

Mazam

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Where do you get 316L wire from? I've looked at all places, I usually get my wires from, but couldn't find any 316L

I just wanted to try it, so i snagged some cheap off ebay (which on a side note, i totally lucked out and got a first class package from Cali to FL in 2 days. record for me):

www.ebay.com/itm/331680929176?

After vaping it for a day and giving it the direct Pepsi challenge this morning (similar to what i do for TC. Same exact setup on an IPV D2, except i tell people each is the opposite. All the 3 of my friends agreed the Kanthal "tasted cleaner" while thinking it was the SS. Placebo at it's best lol), i'm not finding myself buying in to the hype though fwiw
 

f1r3b1rd

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I've been using SS for a little over a month now.
Best way to put it::
I build with it EXACTLY like I build with kanthal only the Rt is lower.
Normally I go with 8/9 wraps at 2.5 internal diameter gives me 0.43 ohm per coil.

To err on the side of caution like @robot zombie sd I pulse pinch at a very low power.
Ie- 9w-10w.
The flavor is much cleaner than anything else I've used.
So far all I've used has been UD 316L SS.
 

MrScaryZ

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SS can be dry-burned, as in it won't melt too easily if you only pulse. And yes, it will turn some rather strange colors when it oxidizes. You can see deep crimsons and purples, yellows and blues. With enough pulsing, those outer layers will give way to black splotches.

Heat takes away the corrosion-resistant properties of stainless steel. While this outer layer of rust helps prevent shorts in contact coils, the safety of vaping on steel after corrosion has set in is dubious. Additionally, there have been concerns regarding whether or not the heat generated causes the coils to give off significant amounts of toxic hexavalent chromium. The same chromium that once made the steel corrosion resistant is released in a toxic form when heat is involved. It is known that hexavalent chromium is produced when SS is heated to sufficient temperatures. What has yet to be seen is how that shakes down when SS is used as a direct-contact heating element for vaping.

It's probably best to err on the side of caution, though personally, I don't think it's a huge concern... ...just something worth bearing into consideration. It is theoretically possible, but it seems unlikely that hexavalent chromium would be present in large quantities under normal vaping conditions. The risk is probably comparable to that of dry-burning nichrome, which also contains chromium - more than SS, even.

That being said, you could always rinse your fresh coils off after pulsing and working the shorts out. If any nasties are being generated, that would be the time when you'd be seeing the most of them. Some people also dry-burn with a cooler heat source, such as a lighter and use brushes to scrape off the residue as measures for minimizing the risk of overexposure to toxic compounds. I'm not entirely sure that this is necessary, myself, but I also don't think it's a bad idea.
Depending on the Grade of SS the concern will change in regards to what it is giving off. 316 SS is 10% Nickle now with this being an Alloy will it give off something and at what verified temperature.. I am curious about 430 SS as it seems to only contain 0.75% of Nickle it surely has not been documented yet that I an find ..
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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SS i dont notice much, but Nichrome 80 TO ME, gives a better flavor, and I no longer use Kanthal, I use SS or Ni80, the reason why is the resistance, lets say a .2 with 5 wrap kanthal can be a .2 9 wrap Ni80, more surface area, more heat, more vapor, more flavor
 

MrScaryZ

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SS i dont notice much, but Nichrome 80 TO ME, gives a better flavor, and I no longer use Kanthal, I use SS or Ni80, the reason why is the resistance, lets say a .2 with 5 wrap kanthal can be a .2 9 wrap Ni80, more surface area, more heat, more vapor, more flavor
I hear ya but if we use this logic then would not TI even be better ? more wraps then even SS correct?
 

f1r3b1rd

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hahaha thats good enough for me once I get my 316 SS if it tastes like a depends dude Im coming for ya :)
Hahaha!!! In full disclosure I've only seen a few others get the funky TI taste. its like nichrome in that way, 98% of people I've seen have loved the stuff after using it. For me, ill stick the SS. It's all I use on any of my mods(for Tc and non TC alike) with the sole exception of the one or two 22g kanthal builds I have.
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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Yea I havent use Ti so I cant comment, but I think firebird just turned me from trying it lol
 

f1r3b1rd

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Yea I havent use Ti so I cant comment, but I think firebird just turned me from trying it lol
Totally not my intent. like I said, I was one of very few people that got that taste.
 

BreeZyCloudZ

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Totally not my intent. like I said, I was one of very few people that got that taste.
Haha not a big deal, i like my Ni80 and SS, Id only get Ti if I bought a TC Mod
 

Zamazam

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316L or 317, have not noticed a difference the the vape quality.
 

awoodby

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I got 316l from amazon pretty cheap, and like 30 yards. Got 26 and 28 gauge for something like $8 apiece. From what I've read it's low in nickel, so shouldn't be a problem to vape. Much better than nichrome.

Just search "316l stainless wire"

Chemical Formula
Fe, <0.03% C, 16-18.5% Cr, 10-14% Ni, 2-3% Mo, <2% Mn, <1% Si, <0.045% P, <0.03% S
 

awoodby

Member For 4 Years
OK. I just like the convenience of Amazon, and figure the 60' I got will last me long enough lol
 
I hear ya but if we use this logic then would not TI even be better ? more wraps than even SS correct?

Man I really don't get some folks nichrome always has tasted like crap that was the fist wire used id for manufactured coils the old school cartos and silica both are now obsolete we gave up on the old silica nichrome combo's and moved on to kanthal OCC as that did not give that funky taste that nichrome is known for then next came nickel Occ and that just pain in backside to work with needing spaced coils and so many warps making dual coil builds with nickel but if your making a single coil build and have the space it fine as long as you can use 30 to 26 ga. nickel it's fine. The truth is whatever u use is fine. If you like NI, TI' SS Kanthal and it works for you, it's all just fine and dandy! Everything out is 100 times better than smoking and noting that comes from any of the current wires used today All the hype and BS about wire is just ways to make you buy more junk you don't need but if you want to use it then its all good to the amount of any of the toxic stuff it vaping for a month don't come close to the amount crap you breathe in one day of LA smog or the 30 min you get stuck in a traffic jam in rush hour and get stuck with some old diesel blowing that nasty stink right at you is got more nasty stuff that a month vaping whether you like it or not there already so much crap in the air we breathe every day that lifetime of vaping at this point there is nothing going to kill ya from vaping any faster than the nasty crap you inhale every single day. The amount of toxins from vaping no matter what wire or wick you use what juice you use don't add up to squat.
I build all my own stuff now boxes to coils I don't do making juices this market its just that they come out with something new toss out some propaganda to make you think you got to have that next new device, that new wire, that new tank. and it BS so you take your hard earned money to make some china man his bowl a rice that day and make some CEO a fat paycheck for sitting on his fat ass doing nothing while all the underpaid overworked chinaman has a job. They had shut down their factories because the dam smogs so bad in china right now that when the world games were there so the whole world would not see a frigging filthy that place is we all breathe that crap I would say the average glass a tap water has more bad crap in it then month a vaping no matter what you use.
For me the only wire, I will use is TI oxidation be damned. I was smoking 3 pack a day I don't give a hoot what there selling I use what I like and 500 times better off than I was. Folks you got to stop tweaking over every tiny little bit of some that may or may not be harmful to me. I just keep on using my Kanthal and my TI wire with OCC and not have to deal with the hassle listen to the buy this crap propaganda and I am really sure that I am way ahead not smoking 3 packs a day and I am not making any little chinaman work in some sweat shop polluting the works air for then next little insignificant thing they say is better because it BS.
And I buy Evolv chip cause there made here in the USA everything that goes into my mod where made right here right down to the wire I buy that from the same place the military buy it. I making nobody have to work in a sweatshop so I can not smoke at least any more than is absolutely necessary.


I would love to know where some folk gets their ideas from I heard some clown trying to tell me that he wanted to have high PG juice because he got a reaction from VG so I asked do you have a reaction from eating salad he so no. So call BS! VG is a from vegetable oil all natural. That most have reaction from PG because it a chemical. Sometimes I just read these forums and it amazes the ridiculous stuff folk say
Hey, news flash vaping safe the number of toxins no matter what you use is so low it not worth talking about !!!
IMHO SS wire is just another pain in backside not worth the time effort and cost, so for those want it great but I would not waste time and effort it just like nickel a pain in rump the only thing that SS better that nickel is you 28 to 24 ga where with nickel 32 to 28 ga and 9 out of 10 times with nickel 30 and 32 ga you think you're all done and go to check your screws and give them just a bit a snug and pop the break off I use TI wire twisted 28 Ga and 26 ga in most of my builds heath give tweak the tweezers to make a closed coil 7 to 8 wraps and bingo right around .4 ohms with nickel you lucky when you can get to .15 with 28 ga so 10 coils later from tweaking the legs off cause you're doing a dual coil and messing with 30 and 32 ga
I like My TI it works the closest kanthal build wise I can get my dual atty just the same no tweaking the legs off no spend 30 min just trying to get the spacing right or getting hot legs or not of that stupid stuff I would use any wire that has to be made as an open coil Ti stay clean longer heats faster cools faster and you can use it on anything has temp control you don't need to have TI setting I just start at 310 F about 20 watts and find the sweet spot all the TI setting does is compensate so you temp it right so like when I am at like 350 F it around 410 420 my DNA 40s I built runs TI wire better them most of the newer models I have with the presets for TI. but that because their china clone China bases chips
So I find SS wire just another gimmick unneeded so SS wire NOT for those that like more to power to ya but it not need and waste money for having to buy new PVD and coil building supplies all that hassle for what maybe it 1 toxin less o till a few month go buy and they need a new gimmick to sell you it just another thing to make vaping a money pit
I have everything here to build my DNA 200 except for chip. I lots of mods so I am no hurry just waiting to see if the chip goes down a bit since I have like 15 PVD's I have plenty to keep me busy
SO for SS wire, I Vote BS not worth 1 dime more I not giving up my DNA 40's that custom built for another pain in the rear wire that is still unproven to better and it sure is less convenient
Vape ON
 

awoodby

Member For 4 Years
I'm getting it for $7 for 30 meters, it wraps easy and you can program in the profiles easily in any DNA device. I don't find it very inconvenient at all. I guess I could use kanthal, and not get TC, or nickel and pay more and have it's springiness. No need to me though.

Ah, TI, well, maybe that's better, probably springier but still doable, none of my mods would take it that I know of though.

To each their own though. As you say, it's wire, whatever.
 

MrScaryZ

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I'm getting it for $7 for 30 meters, it wraps easy and you can program in the profiles easily in any DNA device. I don't find it very inconvenient at all. I guess I could use kanthal, and not get TC, or nickel and pay more and have it's springiness. No need to me though.

Ah, TI, well, maybe that's better, probably springier but still doable, none of my mods would take it that I know of though.

To each their own though. As you say, it's wire, whatever.
You are best to order some Stainless as it appears you have an be done with it.. I have not used anything but stainless steel in about 8 months.. I did use TI for a bit and had nothing but issues
 

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