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Subox mini kit (Not Working anymore)

ForrestGump

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I come to find out noon of my 2 kanger subtanks work with the new Subox Mini mod. Since it is not spring loaded the mod only lasted about 2 months. In my opinion Kanger is pulling a fast one on us. The mod should work with other attys and especially work with the attys it comes with. Am I the only would disapointed about the spring loaded pin not being there and the center fixed pin not making connections anymore? Its a great mod except the center pin problem.

If anyone can help and lend me a hand into how to mod this device so it can still be useful to some of my attys would be much appreciative. Thanks
 

jack

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try with a tiny screw driver to move the pin side to side and maybe it will pop back up, not an uncommon problem
 

Teresa P

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^ ^ ^ Yeah, this....mine has worked with anything I've put on it so far.
 
Use a tiny flathead as Jack said. pry around the 510 center pin evenly until you move it up a little bit. It's a very common design flaw. Should fix it 99% of the time.
 

ForrestGump

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^ ^ ^ Yeah, this....mine has worked with anything I've put on it so far.
i do not believe you sorry its hard for me to believe you. its fixed its impossible for it to work with everything unless they made yours spring loaded a tiny bit mine was the first batch.
 

Teresa P

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Lol! Well, it's true...not everything I have will work on the Sig or the iPV, or even the Cloupor - but the subox and the KBox will take anything I put on them. Dunno why....
 

Teresa P

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Well, it works with everything I have. And I don't have everything. Just sub tanks, sub tank minis, and a nano. Doesn't fire low enough for the builds on my rdas.
 

Budds

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
As has been said.....
LIGHTLY, and EVENLY..... ever so GENTLY, Raise the pin a bit.

How I fixed this issue from happening again on one of my MVPs was to raise the pin, and then slip a tiny O-Ring over the head of the pin.
It will/should snap close around the pin under the head and prevent it from ever dropping to low again !

Hope you get it sorted out.
:)
 

mkhilario

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Much easier and more effective :
Open batt compartment. Remove 2 screws. One is under a sticker. Slide out internals. The only loose part is the insulator at the end of the spring for the negative battery terminal, don't let it fly away.
Push up the 510 contact from the inside.
Reassemble.
Takes 5 minutes at most and safer to avoid damage to 510 pin.
 

mkhilario

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Just to show you how flimsy and crappy the 510 is I will post this. NB- I now only use the included ST Mini with my Kbox Mini. My RDAs either don't fire, or push the stupid positive pin down so it then won't fire the tank afterwards. The ff photos show the internals, the flimsy plastic stem holding the 510, and finally my reinforcement job using high temp epoxy. Having said all this, a flush mounted tank will anchor the 510 to the top plate and achieve structural rigidity. I dropped my mod with the ST attached on both granite and cement (before my glue job) and nothing ever happened other than paint chipping off the tank.
 

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amali.supafly

Member For 4 Years
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Nice. Yeah this is a known problem.. Nice job on the reinforcement! Since you have the casing out, why not polish it for a chrome finish? Hehe


Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk
 

mkhilario

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I swear it takes less than a minute to slip off the casing. Try it. Easiest mod to open up besides a mech maybe.
Not crazy about chrome, but some airbrushed flames might be nice..
 

OneBadWolf

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Much easier and more effective :
Open batt compartment. Remove 2 screws. One is under a sticker. Slide out internals. The only loose part is the insulator at the end of the spring for the negative battery terminal, don't let it fly away.
Push up the 510 contact from the inside.
Reassemble.
Takes 5 minutes at most and safer to avoid damage to 510 pin.


Well explained. I had to do the repair on my buddies,On his, one screw was hidden under a sticker. The only thing I did different is put a plastic support under the 510 to support it. On his, the fire and + and - buttons were also loose, I would tape them from the front of the mod, before you take it apart.
 

mkhilario

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Well explained. I had to do the repair on my buddies,On his, one screw was hidden under a sticker. The only thing I did different is put a plastic support under the 510 to support it. On his, the fire and + and - buttons were also loose, I would tape them from the front of the mod, before you take it apart.
Just hold the mod casing screen side down and the buttons stay in place. I like the tape idea though.
 

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