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Super sub ohming question

Chaotic_Vapes

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Can anybody tell me the benefits of going below .1 ohms? I have been building around 0.15 - 0.3ohms.

I understand the safety risk involved with regular sub ohming and super sub ohming but I'm wondering what the benefits are, if it would be worth going for as a cloud chaser?

I posted this in coils because it's about coils and not cloud chasing in general.

Edit: Typo in ohms. I'm asking why go below 0.1 such as to 0.06.
 
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smacksy

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Can anybody tell me the benefits of going below .1 ohms? I have been building around 1.5-3 ohms.

I understand the safety risk involved with regular sub ohming and super sub ohming but I'm wondering what the benefits are, if it would be worth going for as a cloud chaser?

I posted this in coils because it's about coils and not cloud chasing in general.
Lower resistance means using thicker wire mostly.. The advantages are numerous, like more cotton covered per wrap, and the thicker wire gets hotter..A .25 ohm 24g build at 60w or so is alot hotter than say a 1.5 ohm 30g build at 25w ...in general a build below 1.0 ohm is considered sub ohm... Most of my builds I like for clouds are .25-.3 ohms using a high powered VW mod... Using a mech I like builds a little lower...usually between .17 and .21 ohms... Cloud chasing is fun, but always obey ohms law to stay safe, especially using a mech....I don't do cloud competitions but I do enjoy fogging up my room once in a while like this pic having fun under the blacklight... Lol
50eab5729a06987432d32d65235b0ae2.jpg


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MrScaryZ

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Can anybody tell me the benefits of going below .1 ohms? I have been building around 1.5-3 ohms.

I understand the safety risk involved with regular sub ohming and super sub ohming but I'm wondering what the benefits are, if it would be worth going for as a cloud chaser?

I posted this in coils because it's about coils and not cloud chasing in general.
Really as the name implies sub-homing is anything below .1 there are alot of differences benefits I am not so sure.. Typically the vape will be warmer the lower you go in Ohm also as you lower the .ohm the more nicotine is available for inhalation so typically you can cut the amount of nicotine you were vaping at a higher .ohm so if you were a 24mg at 1.5 Ohm's you can go to 12mg this is just a guesstimate and not 100% accurate as everyone is different.. Moving to Sub-ohm vaping will require a new VV/VW device that has a higher output typically between 30-200+ also you will need to purchase additional atomizers..
Hope this helps
 

Chaotic_Vapes

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Thanks everybody except for 1 person but I made a typo in the ohms I use. My builds clock in at about 0.15-0.3. I was asking why people go below 0.1 to something like 0.08
 

Neunerball

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Thanks everybody except for 1 person but I made a typo in the ohms I use. My builds clock in at about 0.15-0.3. I was asking why people go below 0.1 to something like 0.08
Mainly because it's a hotter vape. However, I keep my builds in the 0.3 Ohm range, just my personal preference.
 

Chaotic_Vapes

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Mainly because it's a hotter vape. However, I keep my builds in the 0.3 Ohm range, just my personal preference.
No benefits to cloud chasing then? Thanks for the straight answer.
 

Chaotic_Vapes

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Cloud chasing depends on the build of the coil(s), like having larger surface area, and good airflow (for hotter builds), not necessarily the resistance.
And going that low won't give me a lot of surface area. At least not to my knowledge.
 

OBDave

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And going that low won't give me a lot of surface area. At least not to my knowledge.
Using fat wire like 22 will give you better surface area given the extra wraps you'll need to come in at a decent resistance. That said, there's little reason to drop below 0.2 on a regulated mod. Just crank up the wattage.

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Chaotic_Vapes

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Using fat wire like 22 will give you better surface area given the extra wraps you'll need to come in at a decent resistance. That said, there's little reason to drop below 0.2 on a regulated mod. Just crank up the wattage.

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone
I'm just going to have to find what I like when it comes to ohms and watts. I am currently running dual parallels of 26 gauge kanthal 5 wraps and its clocking in at 0.14 ohms. I have it on my 200w snow wolf and I haven't tried anything above 1.5 ohms on it yet. I have tried a .3 on an unregulated mech. So far I've enjoyed this build at about 80-120w

Stupid me only bought 10 feet of 1 type of wire. I didn't think I'd enjoy building so much or want to rebuild so often. So I'm buying a 100 foot of 28 and 24 tomorrow for claptons/fused claptons (never made them before so I'll have to double check my gauges).
 
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VapinGeorgie420

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Anything under. 1 is usually just used for comps. I don't usually build under .12. My mechs I don't build below .15 using a good battery and pulse vape. I usually stay between .2 and .3 builds when using my mechs to be safe and with the right build deck and airflow you can get just as big clouds as a build under .1 Anything under .15 I only use on my regulated boxes. IMO I don't see a need to risk blowing up my hand out face so I stay far away from building below .1

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BigNasty

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Sub ohm is anything under 1.0.
Below .1 is tard ohm, dancing with Darwin since it is technically a dead short. Fast fuckery will happen on a normal set up but with tard ohm and a mech the vape to oh fuck!! is fraction of a second.

I like playing with shit that goes BOOM just not in my hand and near my face.
 

robot zombie

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I can see the appeal. Absurd amounts of power and surface area with thick, LR wire. With enough chamber space and airflow, you could summon a dragon.

I sometimes wonder how cool it would be to run a dual 20g kanthal build at something stupid like .08. I'm just not dumb enough to want to find out what might happen if I pull 42 amps from my battery, unfortunately.

It can be done more reasonably with a triple or quad parallel box. You need something that can split the amp-load... ...preferably more than once. I mean, if people can make a box that can keep the current load on the batteries low enough and also handle all of the current itself without popping a wire or shorting a button, then maybe there are some super-sub-ohm builds out there that are worth trying. Maybe there is something to it, if it's done properly.

I do think its excessive, though. I find a dual 22g kanthal buld @ .15-.16 to be enough vapor for me on a mech. But I run that in short pulses, using 30-amp LG HB6's. I did try a .12 dual staged 22/24 build with those batteries, but I didn't like the vape. Just way too hot and intense. Can't imagine myself trying to go much lower. On a regulated device, anything much lower than .2 with dual 22g is too much. And besides, at 125w, a .19 dual 22g chucks like its powered by alchemy.

I still sometimes wonder if there's a safe way to go under, or if it's really the best way to go about utilizing somewhat taboo combinations of power and surface area. You could build a series box and do the same thing with a higher-resistance approach... ...maybe you could even use a series-parallel box. Two individual pairs of batteries in a series configuration, with both of those series pairs feeding into a parallel circuit... ...so that you have two sets of stacked cells pumping out 8.4v each while sharing the amp load in parallel. You could run a .2 @ 350+ watts that way. In a perfect scenario, you would only need 21 amps from each series pair. And you're hitting friggin 350w!
 
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Chaotic_Vapes

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I can see the appeal. Absurd amounts of power and surface area with thick, LR wire. With enough chamber space and airflow, you could summon a dragon.

I sometimes wonder how cool it would be to run a dual 20g kanthal build at something stupid like .08. I'm just not dumb enough to want to find out what might happen if I pull 42 amps from my battery, unfortunately.

It can be done more reasonably with a triple or quad parallel box. You need something that can split the amp-load... ...preferably more than once. I mean, if people can make a box that can keep the current load on the batteries low enough and also handle all of the current itself without popping a wire or shorting a button, then maybe there are some super-sub-ohm builds out there that are worth trying. Maybe there is something to it, if it's done properly.

I do think its excessive, though. I find a dual 22g kanthal buld @ .15-.16 to be enough vapor for me on a mech. But I run that in short pulses, using 30-amp LG HB6's. I did try a .12 dual staged 22/24 build with those batteries, but I didn't like the vape. Just way too hot and intense. Can't imagine myself trying to go much lower. On a regulated device, anything much lower than .2 with dual 22g is too much. And besides, at 125w, a .19 dual 22g chucks like its powered by alchemy.

I still sometimes wonder if there's a safe way to go under, or if it's really the best way to go about utilizing somewhat taboo combinations of power and surface area. You could build a series box and do the same thing with a higher-resistance approach... ...maybe you could even use a series-parallel box. Two individual pairs of batteries in a series configuration, with both of those series pairs feeding into a parallel circuit... ...so that you have two sets of stacked cells pumping out 8.4v each while sharing the amp load in parallel. You could run a .2 @ 350+ watts that way. In a perfect scenario, you would only need 21 amps from each series pair. And you're hitting friggin 350w!
After two read overs in my semi unconscious state I figured out what you were saying.

Personally I tried a 0.07 build (don't remember if it was dual or quad or single wire or parallel or how many wraps, I change them so much and that's all I've made so far) on my snow wolf 200W (obviously didn't run it that high) and it was terrible compared to my current 26 gauge 5 wrap dual parallel coils. Of course I still haven't explored it much. I checked the safety of it and it was good to go but this current build is much better. So I've been under but it wasn't worth it. Maybe I just need more experience before I can build a coil that's worth going under the 0.1 mark.
 

MonsterClouds

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chaotic_vapes. what batteries are you using in your snow wolf when sub ohm vaping?
 

Powerman

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Lower resistance means using thicker wire mostly.. The advantages are numerous, like more cotton covered per wrap, and the thicker wire gets hotter..A .25 ohm 24g build at 60w or so is alot hotter than say a 1.5 ohm 30g build at 25w ...in general a build below 1.0 ohm is considered sub ohm... Most of my builds I like for clouds are .25-.3 ohms using a high powered VW mod... Using a mech I like builds a little lower...usually between .17 and .21 ohms... Cloud chasing is fun, but always obey ohms law to stay safe, especially using a mech....I don't do cloud competitions but I do enjoy fogging up my room once in a while like this pic having fun under the blacklight... Lol

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Thicker wire does not get hotter. It carries more current. Resistance is heat. The lower the resistance, the higher current with less heat. For the same power of 50w, the bigger wire will be cooler. To get the same wire temp as a smaller wire, you have to deliver more watts.

Once you have higher watts, and you have the same high temp as the smaller wire... Now you have more mass and more surface are than the smaller wire. Heat transfer is directly proportional to surface area. Higher amount of heat transfered means more liquid vaporized.

Everyone seems to get fixated on the resistance number. It's not resistance that we are driving for, it's heating element size. And a larger heating element produces more vapor, can deliver more watts, and has more mass. Resistance it directly proportional to length, and inversely proportional to cross section.
 

Chaotic_Vapes

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Thicker wire does not get hotter. It carries more current. Resistance is heat. The lower the resistance, the higher current with less heat. For the same power of 50w, the bigger wire will be cooler. To get the same wire temp as a smaller wire, you have to deliver more watts.

Once you have higher watts, and you have the same high temp as the smaller wire... Now you have more mass and more surface are than the smaller wire. Heat transfer is directly proportional to surface area. Higher amount of heat transfered means more liquid vaporized.

Everyone seems to get fixated on the resistance number. It's not resistance that we are driving for, it's heating element size. And a larger heating element produces more vapor, can deliver more watts, and has more mass. Resistance it directly proportional to length, and inversely proportional to cross section.
To be put simply, a twisted 24 gauge coil with 2 strands wrapped 5 times will be much cooler with 50 watts (barely able to fire if I remember when I tried it) but with 90 watts it will be able to be used.

When I started building, around the time this thread was started, I was thinking resistance and quickly learned from first hand experience that resistance isn't the key factor in your build. Wish I would have known about heating back then, would have saved me from a few failed coils.


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iSubOhm

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Thanks everybody except for 1 person but I made a typo in the ohms I use. My builds clock in at about 0.15-0.3. I was asking why people go below 0.1 to something like 0.08
To blow their faces off. In reality, they just want to push lower resistances for more clouds. Kind of like a big dick contest.
 

iSubOhm

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I'm using some 30 amp lg batteries with 3000 mah. I have 4 of them, 2 married pairs.


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Only use that married pair in your SnowWolf. Don't put those other two in there.
 

MrScaryZ

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Thanks everybody except for 1 person but I made a typo in the ohms I use. My builds clock in at about 0.15-0.3. I was asking why people go below 0.1 to something like 0.08
Benefit hmmm I have built that low but to do it you need a quad parallel box for safety. do people do it? Yes all the time I myself consider it way to hot and the hit is extreme with a Quad box... effectively you can cut your nic level even lower at this Ohm.. Now the flipside is kinda out there some believe that if you build that low when using TC you get a more accurate control of Temperature, some mods as you have seen will go that low..But only in TC and because of Joules law a mod even though it does not follow the amp requirements of Ohm's law is able to push that low of a build...
 

robot zombie

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Everyone seems to get fixated on the resistance number. It's not resistance that we are driving for, it's heating element size. And a larger heating element produces more vapor, can deliver more watts, and has more mass. Resistance it directly proportional to length, and inversely proportional to cross section.
And with that in mind, it really depends on what you're building for. On a mech, a thick, low resistance coil is going to have to be pretty small since the wattage is set by your voltage. Resistance is as much a factor as size and mass. As you go down in gauges, your resistance has to be proportionately lower in order to get enough power to it for it to fire properly, so there's a limit to how much you can benefit from having a thick, heavy, low-resistance coil. You have to take roughly as much length out as you add bulk.

That's where I think the whole resistance mindset comes from. It's a remnant from a time not so long ago, when the only way to get the power we take for granted now was through a low-resistance coil on an unregulated device.

That's also where the current-to-heat association comes from. There was a time when this was always true. I remember when people still thought that voltage could never give them the heat like current could. They hadn't considered that the wattage-mass ratio was the key factor because current was all that they had to work with.

That is to say that it really does come down to the wattage for your coil mass either way, though. The approach just differs slightly, depending on how you get your power. Going by resistance isn't necessarily wrong, it's merely an oversimplification of things.

Ramp-up time and wicking efficiency are factors, as well. Sometimes, a smaller coil that requires less power can outperform a larger coil simply because the wicking has an easier time keeping up across the smaller surface area, which also transfers heat more quickly without getting as hot overall, effectively making it able to displace more juice in a shorter period of time without overheating it, whereas a larger coil displaces a larger amount of juice at a slower rate. It comes back to that heat-transfer balance you were referring to. One must also consider that a coil can only move as much juice as the wick can, which is something that I'm sure tank users in particular can attest to.

I don't know why people focus on any one factor. There is so much to consider. But I suppose the easiest way to learn how all of the variables relate is to examine them one by one.
 
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Chaotic_Vapes

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Only use that married pair in your SnowWolf. Don't put those other two in there.
To blow their faces off. In reality, they just want to push lower resistances for more clouds. Kind of like a big dick contest.
I think you misread me or perhaps I typed it in a way to make you see it that way but of the 4 batteries each are married, two sets of two so I use both. One set recharges while the other is being used. All labeled so I never mix them.

This post is from when I was new and even then I knew my battery safety before I even bought anything. I spent a lot of time wondering if you were just looking for an excuse to try and make a fool out of somebody on their thread or just one of the battery police around this website, either way thanks for looking out for people. Last thing we need are even more news stories of people's mods exploding.

Also to each their own, for me cloud chasing is the only reason I'm still vaping rather than smoking. Sure that sounds ridiculous but in my view, if I just vape the same thing without any challenge in it then it's no different than smoking an analog. I get theirs flavor chasing or just getting into intricate builds but it just doesn't suit me.


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Chaotic_Vapes

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And with that in mind, it really depends on what you're building for. On a mech, a thick, low resistance coil is going to have to be pretty small since the wattage is set by your voltage. Resistance is as much a factor as size and mass. As you go down in gauges, your resistance has to be proportionately lower in order to get enough power to it for it to fire properly, so there's a limit to how much you can benefit from having a thick, heavy, low-resistance coil. You have to take roughly as much length out as you add bulk.

That's where I think the whole resistance mindset comes from. It's a remnant from a time not so long ago, when the only way to get the power we take for granted now was through a low-resistance coil on an unregulated device.

That's also where the current-to-heat association comes from. There was a time when this was always true. I remember when people still thought that voltage could never give them the heat like current could. They hadn't considered that the wattage-mass ratio was the key factor because current was all that they had to work with.

That is to say that it really does come down to the wattage for your coil mass either way, though. The approach just differs slightly, depending on how you get your power. Going by resistance isn't necessarily wrong, it's merely an oversimplification of things.

Ramp-up time and wicking efficiency are factors, as well. Sometimes, a smaller coil that requires less power can outperform a larger coil simply because the wicking has an easier time keeping up across the smaller surface area, which also transfers heat more quickly without getting as hot overall, effectively making it able to displace more juice in a shorter period of time without overheating it, whereas a larger coil displaces a larger amount of juice at a slower rate. It comes back to that heat-transfer balance you were referring to. One must also consider that a coil can only move as much juice as the wick can, which is something that I'm sure tank users in particular can attest to.

I don't know why people focus on any one factor. There is so much to consider. But I suppose the easiest way to learn how all of the variables relate is to examine them one by one.
All of this is correct except one part, "as you go down in gauges,..." Technically speaking it's as you go up in gauges as the lower the number the thicker the wire and more resistance it has. Thus making it in all terms but the gauge size itself, bigger. But that's just my outlook on it and there's probably a very logical explanation for why they are numbered as such.

However the wicking part is what amazes me. Yes it's simple logic really however I wonder how one could increase the efficiency of a basic cotton wick. Clapton and alien coils both aid wicking, the alien in particular. However they only aid it which brings me back to the first question, how could you increase the efficiency of cotton? There's obviously different methods, I prefer the Z wick method, however there's not much you can do about the fibers of it. Which makes me wonder if there are other wicks that are better? I've seen plenty, but wonder how efficient they are.


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Chaotic_Vapes

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Benefit hmmm I have built that low but to do it you need a quad parallel box for safety. do people do it? Yes all the time I myself consider it way to hot and the hit is extreme with a Quad box... effectively you can cut your nic level even lower at this Ohm.. Now the flipside is kinda out there some believe that if you build that low when using TC you get a more accurate control of Temperature, some mods as you have seen will go that low..But only in TC and because of Joules law a mod even though it does not follow the amp requirements of Ohm's law is able to push that low of a build...

A snow wolf 200w supposedly can push a 0.05 build in regular and TC modes. I can't confirm it as I've never built that low but it was working on a .09 that I had awhile ago in regular mode.



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zaroba

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I sometimes wonder how cool it would be to run a dual 20g kanthal build at something stupid like .08. I'm just not dumb enough to want to find out what might happen if I pull 42 amps from my battery, unfortunately.

You would likely only need 2-3 wraps for each coil with an inside diameter of 3mm.
It wouldn't provide much surface area for juice evaporation. Ramp up time would be fast, and it would easily get hot enough to vaporize the liquid faster then the cotton can wick it. On a mech, full lung hits wouldn't be possible without a huge dry hit. On a regulated you could do lung hits as long as the wattage was kept under maybe 75 (guesstimate).

I've never actually tried it (my sigelei can only go down to 0.12), but I normally vape with 20 gauge kanthal in dual coil setups that are 0.12 (~5 wraps) to 0.14 (~7 wraps). The 0.12 can easily get hot enough to dry the cotton faster then it can wick if used at over 90 watts.
 

iSubOhm

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All of this is correct except one part, "as you go down in gauges,..." Technically speaking it's as you go up in gauges as the lower the number the thicker the wire and more resistance it has. Thus making it in all terms but the gauge size itself, bigger. But that's just my outlook on it and there's probably a very logical explanation for why they are numbered as such.

However the wicking part is what amazes me. Yes it's simple logic really however I wonder how one could increase the efficiency of a basic cotton wick. Clapton and alien coils both aid wicking, the alien in particular. However they only aid it which brings me back to the first question, how could you increase the efficiency of cotton? There's obviously different methods, I prefer the Z wick method, however there's not much you can do about the fibers of it. Which makes me wonder if there are other wicks that are better? I've seen plenty, but wonder how efficient they are.


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Actually, the higher the gauge and the thinner the wire, the higher resistance per unit length than a lower one. And I was in no way trying to make a fool of you. I'm just all about safety, bud.

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Powerman

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Ya, resistance is directly proportional to length and indirectly proportional to cross section. The longer it is, or the thinner it is equals more resistance.
 

Flightmedic76

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I was taught to use a highway for comparison. A 4 lane highway can carry more traffic (current) before it jams up (resistance) than a 2 lane road that will take much less. A big burly coil is going to require a lot more power from a mod to heat up even though the ohms are lower. That's how it was explained to me and it makes sense to me. Something like a Clapton or twisted coil needs a bit of power to ramp up, but the trade off (debatable by plenty I'm sure) is more overall surface area of wire exposed to the wick as well as juice being trapped in between the wraps.
 

iSubOhm

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I was taught to use a highway for comparison. A 4 lane highway can carry more traffic (current) before it jams up (resistance) than a 2 lane road that will take much less. A big burly coil is going to require a lot more power from a mod to heat up even though the ohms are lower. That's how it was explained to me and it makes sense to me. Something like a Clapton or twisted coil needs a bit of power to ramp up, but the trade off (debatable by plenty I'm sure) is more overall surface area of wire exposed to the wick as well as juice being trapped in between the wraps.
Wow excellent analogy man. Thanks for that share

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Chaotic_Vapes

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Actually, the higher the gauge and the thinner the wire, the higher resistance per unit length than a lower one. And I was in no way trying to make a fool of you. I'm just all about safety, bud.

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You'll have to excuse me, I was so tired I didn't even notice I was thinking backwards.


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iSubOhm

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It happens, bud

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robot zombie

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You'll have to excuse me, I was so tired I didn't even notice I was thinking backwards.


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LMAO, you had me second-guessing myself for a minute there. I was like "Wait... ...did I really overlook that?" I started doing backwards front-flips in my head for a minute there.

However the wicking part is what amazes me. Yes it's simple logic really however I wonder how one could increase the efficiency of a basic cotton wick. Clapton and alien coils both aid wicking, the alien in particular. However they only aid it which brings me back to the first question, how could you increase the efficiency of cotton? There's obviously different methods, I prefer the Z wick method, however there's not much you can do about the fibers of it. Which makes me wonder if there are other wicks that are better? I've seen plenty, but wonder how efficient they are.
Well, you can tweak coil diameter. That's going to be a major factor. It doesn't change the way the material itself wicks, but it does drastically alter the wicking demands of the coil. You can also play around with different gauges to get the right balance of heating properties for your surface area. You can do two builds with different gauges or types of wire that perform about the same and go through roughly the same amount of juice, but still have different wicking demands because of their heating properties.

Maybe one heats up slower, but stays hotter for longer and thus reaches higher temperatures overall, while the the other heats up faster, but stays cooler because it can more easily lose that heat to airflow and juice. The latter is always going to be easier on the wicking even if it doesn't necessarily go through less juice. While after a certain point, the former is going to overcome the temperature-regulating properties of the juice and air flow. Remember, we're assuming that they're both going through the same amount of juice. The reason that one seems to wick better than the other has to do with how well that fixed juice flow regulates the temperature, not how much juice they can displace overall.

That's why TC can make otherwise un-vapable coils wick flawlessly in any topper. At that point where the airflow and wicking falter, the device steps in and keeps the temperature from surpassing them - it's essentially doing their job for them.

When thinking about wicking, I tend not to think about how I'm going to wick a coil. There's only so much you can do on that front. I think more about how I'm going to build a coil that accomplishes such and such result with minimal wicking demands. It comes back to the heat capacity and flux. You can't talk about things like surface area and heating properties without bringing wicking into the equation. Those factors directly impact how a coil will wick. No matter what kind of coil you're building, you have to balance it to what your wicking material and airflow are capable of taming.
 
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Brian L

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I wouldn't compare super sub-uhm vaping to a "big dick contest", personally. Maybe (probably) some do it just to try to get as big a cloud as possible, but on my mechanical box mod I run a .06 ohm build simply because that's what gives me the warmth and flavor I like. I use VTC4's in that mod and they barely get warm after a 15 minute chain-vape session. That's the only device I go that low on. On my regulated mods I keep it at .18 - .2 and run it at 125 watts and up. Just personal preference.
 

iSubOhm

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I wouldn't compare super sub-uhm vaping to a "big dick contest", personally. Maybe (probably) some do it just to try to get as big a cloud as possible, but on my mechanical box mod I run a .06 ohm build simply because that's what gives me the warmth and flavor I like. I use VTC4's in that mod and they barely get warm after a 15 minute chain-vape session. That's the only device I go that low on. On my regulated mods I keep it at .18 - .2 and run it at 125 watts and up. Just personal preference.
Don't take offense. I was just making a funny about how some guys push the limits and sometimes go beyond just to get a bigger cloud than someone and end up hurting themselves and others possibly.. For me, I'm in the range of .18 on this one I believe. Didn't mean to go below .2, but it just came out that way

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Brian L

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Don't take offense. I was just making a funny about how some guys push the limits and sometimes go beyond just to get a bigger cloud than someone and end up hurting themselves and others possibly.. For me, I'm in the range of .18 on this one I believe. Didn't mean to go below .2, but it just came out that way

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No offense taken. I was just offering a different viewpoint.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

Chaotic_Vapes

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If I knew how to close this thread I would. It's long since been solved.


Sent from my dos terminal.
 

Powerman

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So has pretty much 90% of the stuff on the Interweb. How about we just close it?
 

ej1024

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If I knew how to close this thread I would. It's long since been solved.


Sent from my dos terminal.
I think they just want to push the limits,some VAPERS like the heat
Some don't
Some are MTL SOME ARE DL
It's different for everybody,
I tried a 0.06 before its scares the hell out of cuz my battery and mod gets too damn hot.
And it was a WOOD BOX
BOOM lol
Be safe
And




VAPE ON
 

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