Become a Patron!

Temp Control Q&A

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
I have recently started to test out TC mode on my mod. I'm using a Kylin RTA and wrapping my own coils with 316L Stainless Steel.

In TC-SS mode, which according to Eleaf is for SS 316, I can run it at about 160˚C and it gives a nice vape.

When in M1 mode, which I have set with a TCR of 0088 (which I got from steam-engine) I have to run it at about 250˚C + to get a decent vape from it.

Which of these is right?

Either could try bumping the TCR up to 0092 see if that changes the M1 setting which will probably be what the standard TC uses (others say this is the right TCR for 316 I've always used steam engine as a guide myself)
 
Yeah, I currently have M1 set to 0088, M2 set to 0092 and M3 set to 0130, which was suggested elsewhere in this thread.

Problem is, even with resistance locked, switching between modes while the coil is warm kicks me out of TC mode and suddenly I'm vaping at 20w in VW mode. Therefore I have to wait for the coils to cool down before I can compare.

Will test some more.

I'm getting a decent vape just using the default TC-SS mode at 150˚C (302˚F), just trying to understand why it's so different when set to 0088. 270˚C (518˚F) seems rather hot, or is that more likely the correct value, and the 150˚C is a little low?
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
TC-SS and TCR 0092 should produce the same vape if set to the same temp assuming TC-SS is set by the factory for 316L.

You don't have to wait for anything, just change modes. Only time you have to wait for the atomizer to cool down is if you are locking in resistance.
 

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
TC-SS and TCR 0092 should produce the same vape if set to the same temp assuming TC-SS is set by the factory for 316L.

You don't have to wait for anything, just change modes. Only time you have to wait for the atomizer to cool down is if you are locking in resistance.

Some mods will kick you out like F1end has found if it requires to lock resistence in each mode
 
Tried all now. I can get a decent vape out of all 3, I'm just interested in what the SS mode is set to by default (I'm guessing around 0150) and which one is actually correct!!

TC-SS: nice at around 150-160˚C
TCR0088: nice at 270-280˚C
TCR0092: around 250-260˚C
TCR0130: nicest around 200-210˚C

At the end of the day it doesn't really matter, I can get a nice vape out of it whatever, but then it vapes OK at around 45-50W in VW mode anyway!!
 
Last edited:

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
Tried all now. I can get a decent vape out of all 3, I'm just interested in what the SS mode is set to by default (I'm guessing around 0150) and which one is actually correct!!

TC-SS: nice at around 150-160˚C
TCR0088: nice at 270-280˚C
TCR0092: around 250-260˚C
TCR0130: nicest around 200-210˚C

At the end of the day it doesn't really matter, I can get a nice vape out of it whatever, but then it vapes OK at around 45-50W in VW mode anyway!!

TC varies wildly from device as to how accurate the chip reads it. sounds like 0150 is what they set it at like you say, end of the day the setting that works best for you after trial an error is the best one to use, even in escribe for DNA it takes time to dial it in
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Some mods will kick you out like F1end has found if it requires to lock resistence in each mode


Never had one do that, the board locks resistance and you can change the program to whatever mode you want and the locked resistance is locked resistance. Yeah, go from SS or TCR 0092 to Ni with SS wire and you get kicked out but to stick with the same wire setting, it should not need to be relocked.
I don't have cheap mods, so maybe that issue does exist and hasn't happened to me. I stuck with two high end boards and a RX200 but even the RX200 doesn't operate like that.

TC-SS: nice at around 150-160˚C
TCR0088: nice at 270-280˚C
TCR0092: around 250-260˚C
TCR0130: nicest around 200-210˚C

That makes perfect sense.
If you leave temp at one setting, a higher TCR will give you a hotter vape and a lower TCR will give you cooler vape.
So to keep the vape the same temp you had to reduce temp setting as you increased TCR.

450° to 500°F is about the average temp people use, that's 232° to 260°C so I think 0092 is most likely the correct TCR for the wire you are using.

Like you and kingpin said, whatever works and makes you happy is the right setting for you. But this reply is just to point out the relation of TCR to temp setting so you understand what the change does and not just set to a number someone or a site told you to set it to.
 
Last edited:
I have a Ijoy Captain PD270 mod, I'm using a ACME TANK, and the coil size is an ijoy . 25 ohm, 5-20 watts coil, I'm new to vaping and I'm sure its not set up right coils don't last but a few puffs and then its burnt hits.

Can anyone help me? Tank is 304 stainless steel.
 

Attachments

  • 20180213_212042.jpg
    20180213_212042.jpg
    777 KB · Views: 10

skt239

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
is it the tank that is made out of 304 or the coil wire? I’m willing to bet that’s a kanthal coil.
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The tank is constructed out of 304. The coils are not. The coils are likely Kanthal or NiChrome 80. Those wires are not suitable for TC on 99.999% of mods.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
Description:

Coil’s design is base on the Inspiration of the RDA atomizer, it is the newest and best structure when compare with kanger and aspire.

It is the smallest coil when compare with kanger and aspire. But the power of it is incredible.

For the smallest size, it allows the ACME atomizer to hold more e-liquid. Our 22mm ACME can hold 5ml e-liquid.


what is new in the IJOY ACME-L COIL design?


ijoy acme-L coils have two choices.

A1(horizontal coil) coil for ACME-L introduction:

1.Coil’s design is base on the Inspiration of the RDA/RBA atomizer, it is the newest and best structure when compare with kanger and aspire.

2.it is dual coil design, and with the fastest e-liquid intake system and greatest vapor production and best taste. when it works on 20w~25w can work perfectly.


A2(vertical coil) coil for ACME-L introduction:

1.A2 is the first Parallel dual coil. can offer better experience than BVC technology. when it works on 25w~30w can offer perfect vapor experience.



Both A1 and A2 coil use the stainless steel cover, which can keep the coil from high temperature to ensure the clearomizer won't get high temperature.



another advantage is the size of the coil is the smallest one when compare to other sub ohm tank design, which can leave more space for use to fill e-liquid for atomizer
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I think there is to much power hitting the coil resulting in burnt hits
There is no way for the mod to regulate temperature on these coils. They should be used in wattage mode only.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
So that would be user setting and just keep low at 25 watts? I probably cooked it using it at higher watts.

I'm new to vaping have a cloud beast king tank but it leaks like a pig. I like the ijoy acme tank because it don't leak. Can you recommend a set up for my mod with a tank that don't leak and a newbie can handle? Thanks
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
So that would be user setting and just keep low at 25 watts? I probably cooked it using it at higher watts.

I'm new to vaping have a cloud beast king tank but it leaks like a pig. I like the ijoy acme tank because it don't leak. Can you recommend a set up for my mod with a tank that don't leak and a newbie can handle? Thanks
Keep the Acme around 25 watts, yes.

Tanks that don't leak? Smok Xbaby, Cleito Exo. Those are top airflow tanks, though, and they're prone to flooding...

If your Cloud Beast King (aka TFV12) leaks like a sieve, it could be the seals/o-rings, the coil, or running at too low a wattage causing the cotton to become over-saturated. Check your seals, install a new, primed coil, and increase the wattage. I wouldn't have even discussed the TFV12 except that's what I'm using this evening, and have used for the past 4 days with very few leaks (floods while filling). Note, however, that I am using the Ystar TFV12 RBA rather than a stock coil head.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the info and yes mine floods too, but its to powerful for me right now, will save for the future. I ordered new coils can't wait to get them for this acme tank.

Thanks for the advice!
 
Hi all

I'm vaping with a voopoo drag
I'm gonna use dual coils, two staggered fused clapton with a total resistance of 0.2.

since voopoo has a TC mode named NC with recommended TCR of 400
I know NC mode is JUST a mode and you can made a lot of these modes yourself with a range and drag has a TCR mode with a nice range of numbers to choose from.

anw
what do you think about this setup
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hi all

I'm vaping with a voopoo drag
I'm gonna use dual coils, two staggered fused clapton with a total resistance of 0.2.

since voopoo has a TC mode named NC with recommended TCR of 400
I know NC mode is JUST a mode and you can made a lot of these modes yourself with a range and drag has a TCR mode with a nice range of numbers to choose from.

anw
what do you think about this setup
What wires are used in the coils?

NC often stands for NiChrome (80). There are some that claim it can be used in TC, but it's an iffy proposition at best. If it's SS316L, just use the correct mode. However, I think you'll be disappointed in the performance as it'll take a lot more wattage than the VooPoo can dish out to ramp up. You're better off, in that mod, using round wires rather than exotics...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
oh I forgot to give u the wire details
it's : [26GA+32GA]*2 as core (loose) wrapped in 30GA
its staggered fused clapton by Vapethink

I was expecting 0.2 but I got 0.16 when I installed it

ye Drag's TC mode is fair in above 0.2 ohm range

I'm using it in wattage mode now, on 75 Watt, giving me a good vape \m/
 
Last edited:

zephyr

Dirty Pirate Meg
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
How well does a parallel SS build do temp control, assuming the mod handles TC well? I'm looking at building a 6 strand parallel build (dual coils) 316L for a DNA250C, and wondering if it would work in TC/Replay...seems like it should, with wires all being SS and same gauge, with very high gauge kanthal wrap?
 

mjag

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
How well does a parallel SS build do temp control, assuming the mod handles TC well? I'm looking at building a 6 strand parallel build (dual coils) 316L for a DNA250C, and wondering if it would work in TC/Replay...seems like it should, with wires all being SS and same gauge, with very high gauge kanthal wrap?

I have heard that Replay works fine with a SS core, kanthal/nichrome wrap. I haven't tried it myself but know Replay is pretty forgiving. I use parallel SS claptons a bunch for TC and no prob just as long as they are made with quality wire.
 

Severinomotta

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
NO TC AFTER HEAT AND RINSE SS CLAPTON COILS...

Ow man, big discussion abou TC huh?

So here goes a new one. Dont know if it is my shi* prebuild SS Claptons (24g-32g) or my mod or my tank.

But the thing is this. When i clean the SS Clapton - heat, tap water, do it again one or two times, them brush it a little bit with a metalic brush, it looks almost like new. BUT....

It loses the TC ability.

It became to work just like in power mode. If i put 100 celsius or 300 celsius nothing changes. The vape is the same i get in watts mode. If it is 60 watts, ill have the same cloud and same temperature, and this happen with my mod in TC mode.

Did it two times. In this two times i had to change my coils for new ones to the TC mode work again. Put new ones and boom, TC all working fine again.

Use Revenger X and Zeus Dual Coils WITH de dual coils :)

Any one of you guys think the termic shock in SS in the cleaning process with tap water can affect anything? Os maybe is just a lousy pre made coil i bought (or mod, or whatever)?

Thansk, and beautiful discussion above.

Best for the ladies and the dudes.

Cheers.
 
Last edited:

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
after a clean it is worth resetting your resistance you didn’t mention if you had done that mate?

If you have then sometimes a little adjustment with the TCR setting and temp can help offset any slight changes to the metals structure (move it up in value rather than down first)
 

Severinomotta

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
after a clean it is worth resetting your resistance you didn’t mention if you had done that mate?

If you have then sometimes a little adjustment with the TCR setting and temp can help offset any slight changes to the metals structure (move it up in value rather than down first)
King, sorry for my bad english, beside that, i still not quite used to the vap slangs.... So lets go. 1) " resetting your resistance" - what do you mean by that? (unlock and then lock again the resistence? is this? ) if not, what exactly is this and how can i do it? - and 2) Guess i did it one time (unlock and then lock again), but no sure, so lets go for a "no". Other thing, when i have this kind of trouble i always check the TCR and it stills in 92 (as i had set it to my SS316). And, for the finale, i didnt quite understand the " (move it up in value rather than down first)". You mean up my TCR and the temp and give a few fires?

Sorry to bother with all this questions, but very gratefull for your attention.

Thanks again man.

PS: Cause what i think that what could be happening is some kind of transformation in the SS or in its peel. Maybe i heat it too much for a SS before put under tap water... The thing is, after that, the mod seems to not recognize it anymore like SS and assume it is just a regular Kantal or other non TC wire, and begin to work like it work in regular power mode, even when is in TC mode-- and all of this is i trying to guess, all supositions, of course :) im not a scientist or nothing, kkk
 
Last edited:

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
No probs :)

1) Remove the atomiser completely and press the fire button on the mod, this will reset the resistance most of the time to 0 ohms (if not unlock resistance then do the above)

When you have re-wicked and juiced up the atomiser, at room temperature re-attach the atomiser and let the mod read the resistance again (lock it in before you heat the coil if you have to do that on that mod)

2) I’ve seen mods range anywhere between 0.00088 to 0.00140 before to get TC working for stainless steel so instead of 0.00092 (92) try 94 then 96 etc ...see what I mean?

Note: TCR is a linear line to show average resistance change when heated, it stands to reason depending on where you buy the wire, it’s impurities or composition and the accuracy of the mod itself will affect this variable.


Also warm glow only for SS if you are over heating it you will make it rust and frankly it’ll taste like shit at that point
 

Severinomotta

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
No probs :)

1) Remove the atomiser completely and press the fire button on the mod, this will reset the resistance most of the time to 0 ohms (if not unlock resistance then do the above)

When you have re-wicked and juiced up the atomiser, at room temperature re-attach the atomiser and let the mod read the resistance again (lock it in before you heat the coil if you have to do that on that mod)

2) I’ve seen mods range anywhere between 0.00088 to 0.00140 before to get TC working for stainless steel so instead of 0.00092 (92) try 94 then 96 etc ...see what I mean?

Note: TCR is a linear line to show average resistance change when heated, it stands to reason depending on where you buy the wire, it’s impurities or composition and the accuracy of the mod itself will affect this variable.


Also warm glow only for SS if you are over heating it you will make it rust and frankly it’ll taste like shit at that point
Thanks so much for the info King.

Just one last doubt.

When you say "Remove the atomiser completely" is just like, take the hole tank, the Zeus in my case, of the mode, and fire? Or
disassemble the entire Zeus, taking the coils off also, assemble it all again, puting coils back, attach the rest, etc, and then follow the next steps?

Thanks again.

Peace man!
 

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
Just take the Zeus off the mod ..no need to dissasble you’ve already done that when cleaning :)

You are resetting the mod effectively
 

expat42451

Member For 4 Years
Brief note to say thanks to all the contributors..... after a year with a Releaux Gen 3 (even with Arctic Fox) I got a Woody Vapes X200 and finally have TC. Works great on my different atomizers with 26 ga 316 but (as I have read here) using Kanthal or Clapton bounces the mod out of TC to power mode. Supposed to have a VooPoo Drag in the next few weeks as well. I have learned a lot here. Just a note to say thanks for all the great info.
 

Theboss

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Interested in getting this thread revived and hearing what mods you guys think do temp control really well. Obviously Dicodes, DNA and Yihi are all very good temp control chips and I have vaped temp control on 2 of them, but what else out there is close?
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The Smoant Cylon does good TC. Modefined Lyra. Believe it or not, Smok's new chip (in the Morph) does pretty decent TC.

Personally I consider a mod to do good TC, even if I have to adjust the TCR some. No big deal.
 

vuJim

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Reddit Exile
Mike Vapes (?) raved about the Vaporesso Gen TC in his review.
 
I want to start to vape in TC mode with my Drag 2 mod (Gene chip). I've had reading a lot about TC mode but with SS it"s a little mess.

1st.- The TCR for SS316L that I found varies from sources: 0.00088 to 0.00092. While the Drag 2 recommends 1300...
What's the correct TCR for SS316L in the Drag mod?

2nd.- What is the correct maximum temperature for flavor, without the cotton becomes6a toast? I heard 210°C, but 150°C too. There is a great gap between those two numbers.

Thank guys!

Enviado desde mi Mi A2 mediante Tapatalk
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I want to start to vape in TC mode with my Drag 2 mod (Gene chip). I've had reading a lot about TC mode but with SS it"s a little mess.

1st.- The TCR for SS316L that I found varies from sources: 0.00088 to 0.00092. While the Drag 2 recommends 1300...
What's the correct TCR for SS316L in the Drag mod?

2nd.- What is the correct maximum temperature for flavor, without the cotton becomes6a toast? I heard 210°C, but 150°C too. There is a great gap between those two numbers.

Thank guys!

Enviado desde mi Mi A2 mediante Tapatalk
The TCR for 316L is indeed 88-92 (or 94 or so)

I don't own a device with the Gene chip, but if I did I would start with the default settings.

What temperature you run it at will depend on the build and how you like to vape. I routinely run TC at over 200C. Average around 420F (215C)

What power you use will also depend on what coils you're using.

What coils ARE you using btw?
 
The TCR for 316L is indeed 88-92 (or 94 or so)

I don't own a device with the Gene chip, but if I did I would start with the default settings.

What temperature you run it at will depend on the build and how you like to vape. I routinely run TC at over 200C. Average around 420F (215C)

What power you use will also depend on what coils you're using.

What coils ARE you using btw?
Hi @gsmit1

I want to use artisanals handcrafted coils Framed Staple of 23 ohms in a single coil RDA atto (The Flave EVO 22 mm).

Thanks a lot!

Enviado desde mi Mi A2 mediante Tapatalk
 

KingPin!

In my defence, I was left unsupervised ^^
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reviewer
Hi @gsmit1

I want to use artisanals handcrafted coils Framed Staple of 23 ohms in a single coil RDA atto (The Flave EVO 22 mm).

Thanks a lot!

Enviado desde mi Mi A2 mediante Tapatalk

I’ve often found with the big the coil types is it’s harder for TC to work correctly with it ...heating then cooling between hits (bigger coil cools slower) so you might have to factor that in as well

sorry not used the gene chipset so can’t help on the settings for it
 
Hi All
Thought it would be good to have a dedicated thread for temp control Q & A for newbies (and veterans alike to help us noobs)

I've recently got into building my own coils one of the things I've noticed is how easy it is to get a dry or burnt hit especially when you put in some of those bigger coil builds. Now I know some will say that's a wicking issue or try turning down the wattage.... whilst that is true, in a lot of cases these chunky heaps of coiled madness just can't cool down quick enough!

so I started looking into temp control as a means to maintain the flavour...draw for long periods of time...chain vape like a madman...avoid cremating my cotton...and not mash up my coil that I spent bloody ages building!

What I've learnt so far

There are 4 main things to remember for temp control

1) All metals change resistance when heated, but it's those metals that change more that are the best suited for temp control, and its for this reason most temp control mods have Nickel, Titanium, and Stainless Steel as a default ...imagine a hose pipe fully open, now pinch it (resistence in our case), it's harder for the water (current in our case) to get through... that's exactly what's going on here as the metal is heated.
You will start with a new coil build at say 0.3ohm at room temperature and when heated it goes up to 0.5ohm ...the resistance goes up (some metals change far more than others) this effect is known as Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (TCR*) It's the average amount the resistance changes for every 1 degree Celsius heated

(*note there is a proper temperature curve some devices can utilise which is different to the average linear line that is TCR but for ease of explaination I'll stick to TCR)

note 2, Kanthal is usually out of the question for temp control on most mods as its resistance changes so little when heated

Edit: Hohm wrecker G2 claims to support this metal type thanks @PhantomOp

2) The type of Metal you choose for your coil changes the correct TCR you use on your mod (I believe I've read somewhere you also need to factor in your own mods internal resistance although on most regulated devices I would assume the chip accounts for this?)
I'll post a follow up after this of all the metals common TCRs

3) Temperature - this is what you want your mod to max out at and stay at when it gets there ...meeting all of those things I listed above (avoid cremating cotton etc)... now it's important to note your mod isnt actually detecting the temperature, it's carrying out calculations 1000's times a second based on reading the starting ohm resistance and the resistance while heating this is why TCR is important..(it's also really important you have a good connection on your deck for your coils as well, dodgy ohm readings to start with are bad news, health and safety first people)

Example:
  • A coil is at 0.10Ω at room temperature (20°C / 68°F)
    • You vape and the chip sees its resistance is now 0.22Ω
      • So it knows its resistance rose by 0.12Ω
    • Then it calculates using the TCR you pre set of 0.006 (NI200) thats a resistance rise of 0.12Ω equals a temperature rise of 200°C (392° F)
      • And therefore the coil temperature is now 220°C (428°F)
      • (0.22Ω - 0.10Ω) / (0.006 * 0.1Ω) = 200°C (392°F)
      • + 20°C (68°F) [starting temp] = 220°C (428°F) [coil temp]
4) Wattage - This is serving to only get you to the temperature you set earlier because your mod will maintain temperature when it's peaked (that's why you see that temp message on your mod) it's pulsing here to maintain temp rather than keeping going in power mode, it's not turning off like a lot of people think ....
So set this based on how quickly you want to reach your max temp, if like me your not fussed on the pulsing bit set it lower, if you want it at max level immediately raise it there is no right or wrong

No doubt there are things I've forgotten or don't yet know so Q&A time guys

I'd like to take my hat off to Steve @Wingsfan0310 for helping me complete this picture :)

Edit: found a really useful article which has a very thourough explanation of all the elements affecting TC well worth a read

https://www.ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/
Great thread!! Thank you for all your information!!
I recently started using TC control and it is fantastic, definitely the best way to go!! I feel like a dummy because I have been vaping well over 10 years and never utilized TC, only used watt mode.
Not only is the flavor of the vape much better, but I am changing the cotton and homemade coils much left often. I vape only homemade NET tobacco 85vg/15pg which causes pre-made coils to taste like crap after 36 to 48 hours which led me to only use MTL RTA's and was changing only my cotton every 48 hours because of a burned vape taste. I also use 28 gauge titanium wire for my 3mm homemade coils, and cut a strip of organic cotton. The 28 gauge wire is a little difficult to work with when seating the coil in the baseplate of the atty and assuring a good connection due to how thin the wire is, but is well worth it because the ramp up time is nearly non-existent.... truly a MTL vapors perfect combination IMO.
I swap the homemade coil about one a week, or sooner if there are hotspots on the coil, or if I warp the coil when swapping the cotton.when swapping the coil.
I sure wish I knew all this 10 years ago, I would have saved allot of money!!
IMO, a perfect NET MTL vape, and least expensive way to go is by using a single coil RTA, with 28 gauge titanium wire and organic cotton, and by using temperature control. I tried the braided rope, but was not happy with the wicking speed, seemed much slower than regular cotton pads.
Thanks again for your commentaries!!
Matt
 
Other threads ive read suggest that metals that change ohm resistence more substantially when heated are overall better for temp control as its easier for your mod to detect the changes and make the temperature calculations more accurately

Check out my second post on this thread for the common TCR numbers ...the higher the number the more the ohm resistence will change for that metal. Know that you might not like the taste of all metals, also some are safer than others at high temperatures so bear this in mind with your decision about what to go with ;)

in terms of thickness of gauge it's something to experiment with... what's right for one person might not be right for the next I don't think there is such a thing as best it's subjective... however avoiding hotspots and going for spaced coils is seen as the better option for temp control

As a side note to this it's very important your starting ohm resistence is stable so checking coils are tightly screwed in the posts occasionally taking off your tank and resetting it on the mod are equally important
Your side note on assuring that the coil is tightly secured is VERY important! A loose, or partially seated coil will impact performance greatly. I have an MTL RTA that came with screws that were tapered causing an unreliable connection which created havoc when using TC. I replaced the screws with 2.5mm stainless steel screws and no more issues when using temp control.
As for which type of wire to use, IMO, titanium seems to be the most consistent, with nickle80 a close second. I did not like using stainless steel wire as it seemed more apt to create a burned taste compared to titanium. And another plus that I find convenient is that titanium wire is very easy to work with...easy to shape, and so "spring-back" like SS wire. And as for removing the tank occasionally, that points to a weak spring in the mod. I've been using E-Leaf mod products, and my older istick has a poor connection. I have to pull the spring loaded contact in the mod each time I remove the tank, but that mod is nearly 10 years old. My newer istick an Pico are fine so far. I have not been forced to remove the tank at all.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
titanium wire...
...is indeed the best material for TC IMHO. The TCR curve makes it easiest for the circuit to track and many times even mods that struggle with TC for SS will do pretty good with Ti1. The dangers of titanium are way overblown in my view too. I worked on an open die forging crew with glowing hot thousand pound bars of titanium and we had all the safety literature there. (long story)

Depending on which Eleaf mod, it may accept ARCTIC FOX which will improve TC even more, though it is a bit technical and can be more complicated to setup.

I don't think you said what atomizers you're using.
 
Last edited:

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Another plus for Ti1 is that, at least to me, it has NO flavor. Just none. It doesn't effect the flavor of the vape one way or the other. Stainless and to a lesser degree, Kanthal can have a metallic taste, which doesn't bother me, but titanium doesn't have it.

For whatever reason, I have had a rough go with Nickel. I haven't spent a ton of time on it, but the time I did spend, I just couldn't get it to do what I wanted.
 
Thanks for your replies!!
I have a few questions for folks who use TC mode and have installed Artic Fox....
Once I figured out how to properly use temperature control I absolutely loved it! I haven't used any of my mods that don't have TC. I would imagine that would be the case for most serious vapers. Too bad it took me so long to catch on.
I am an eletronics junkie, but I have been reluctant to flash my mod with Artic Fox due to fears of bricking the mod making it useless.
Is my worry unwarranted?
Can I brick my mod if I make a mistake?
If I did make a mistake, would I be able to flash my mod back to it's original firmware?
What are the main advantages of Artic Fox?
I am currently using my 10 year old E-Leaf Pico which is a great little mod. The only setbacks with the Pico are, #1, limited to 22mm RTAs, #2 ... The LED screen gets dimmer, and dimmer as time passes. I have 4 authentic Pico's, and only 1 has an LED screen that I can read. One of the 3 has is not readable at all, and the other 2 are so dim that I have to go into my walk-in closet where it is pitch dark, and setup the TC settings because the Led display is so dim.
I have written E-Leaf several times and their response has been an automated message that the unit is out of warranty. So I am very reluctant to purchase any more E-Leaf products. It's ashame because I like how small they are, and how reliable they have been, except for the LED screen.
Suggestions welcome
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Is my worry unwarranted?
Yes :)
Can I brick my mod if I make a mistake?
Anything is possible, but if you make sure that your mod is supported and follow the highly idiot resistant instructions, (they really are) the flash is a trivial operation. Even for a non-technical person.

Take a look at the MANUAL first.
If I did make a mistake, would I be able to flash my mod back to it's original firmware?
If you have the file for the original firmware. I don't remember offhand if there's a download function where you can dump the onboard firmware to a file on the PC. I don't think so, but I could be wrong.
Pico's, and only 1 has an LED screen that I can read.
That seems to be an Eleaf thing, maybe with the controller on the board or maybe with the screens they use. I have a few Eleaf mods where the screen has gotten pretty dim. Unfortunately, Arctic Fox won't overcome that.
 
Thanks for your reply! I figured that the Artic Fox firmware won't fix the LED issue 😩, but I'm going to have to have a backup mod before I try the new firmware because the other 3 Pico's would be useless to me since I won't be able to go through all the settings to test what works best.At least now I can.eventually get to the settings I prefer just by knowing how many clicks to make once powered on.
I posted a different thread asking for suggestions on buying a new, small, TC mod.
 
So that would be user setting and just keep low at 25 watts? I probably cooked it using it at higher watts.

I'm new to vaping have a cloud beast king tank but it leaks like a pig. I like the ijoy acme tank because it don't leak. Can you recommend a set up for my mod with a tank that don't leak and a newbie can handle? Thanks
I use a Innokin Ares II, and the top fill opening is protected against leakage by having a silicone plug-like slot. It works well if the mod/tank is left on its side, or even upside down...it may flood, but no leaks in my pockets. (I have stained many shirt top pockets over the years).
But, when filling the tank, that silicone peice works so well that any remaining juice gets pushed out (opposite of vacuum). So, to avoid that I insert a syringe tip so the pressure is released as the tank fills.
That silicone stopper is a great idea, but the instructions should inform the purchaser. When I first started using the Ares II I couldn't understand why the tank leaked so much after filling. It wae to the pressure that built up from filling the tank, then it slowly leaked out while in my shirt pocket🤔.
 

VU Sponsors

Top