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Tempatuere control vs. normal power mode

treys2k

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I have never used a temp control mod and was woundering how diffrent it is from a regular mod? how diffrent does it feel while vaping. I had a ijust 2 that I loved and on a full charge it puts out about 80w should I get a temp mod that puts out that much to be comparable to the Ijust 2? Any reccomendations , I was looking at he cloudour gt 80w
 

eruptedvapor

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Temp Control Vs Power.

Temp control is a chip set that allows the box to sense what the temperature of the coil is. What does this do? Well, cotton has a certain burn temp, so you can set up your box to be just below that point, making it difficult (although not impossible) to burn your cotton, eliminating the risk of taking a giant drag of cotton. The next part is the heat of your vape. Some people, not I, like really cool clouds. With a temp sensing mod, you can put the temperature low enough so that it feels like you are inhaling tasty air, with barely a hint of warmth.

In order to accomplish this, you will need coils that are not made of Kanthal. Typically either Nickel or Titanium. Everyone has a preference one way or the other. When I use temp sense, I use nickel.

As far as your box is concerned, it's totally up to you and your aesthetic. I like the IPV D2 and the IPV 4S. One is 75 watt (D2) and the other is a 150W (4S).

Justin with Erupted Vapor
 

Markw4mms

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One of the best things about TC is there is little, to no ramp up time on the coil compared to power mode. Not getting dry hits is the best thing about it though.
 

treys2k

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Temp Control Vs Power.

Temp control is a chip set that allows the box to sense what the temperature of the coil is. What does this do? Well, cotton has a certain burn temp, so you can set up your box to be just below that point, making it difficult (although not impossible) to burn your cotton, eliminating the risk of taking a giant drag of cotton. The next part is the heat of your vape. Some people, not I, like really cool clouds. With a temp sensing mod, you can put the temperature low enough so that it feels like you are inhaling tasty air, with barely a hint of warmth.

In order to accomplish this, you will need coils that are not made of Kanthal. Typically either Nickel or Titanium. Everyone has a preference one way or the other. When I use temp sense, I use nickel.

As far as your box is concerned, it's totally up to you and your aesthetic. I like the IPV D2 and the IPV 4S. One is 75 watt (D2) and the other is a 150W (4S).

Justin with Erupted Vapor
Do you still set a wattage when in temp mod? Like do you set it at 50w 500 degrees?
 

Myk

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Do you still set a wattage when in temp mod? Like do you set it at 50w 500 degrees?

Some you set wattage, some set joules. You probably set some kind of power.

How it works is if you're set to 400° and you have the power to low to get there it will be limited by the power and never get to temperature. If you have the power maxed out it will quickly jump to the temperature then back off, and jump again, you end up with a rattlesnake type vape. If you have the power set where it can get to temperature but not overpowered it gets to temperature more calmly and holds it better without the quick jumps and backing down.

Note that all TC mods are not really TC. Some are complete frauds like the M80+. Some are just really bad at it like the Sigelei 75wTC.
 

Neunerball

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One of the best things about TC is there is little, to no ramp up time on the coil compared to power mode. Not getting dry hits is the best thing about it though.
A nichrome coil also has little to no ramp up time, and that's obviously in power mode.
 

RenoMama

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@Myk do you have much experience with other sigelei models? I have the 150w TC and wondering how good of a mod it is? I picked it up about a month ago and am still learning about TC. May have got ahead of myself since I am still a bit of a noob.
 

Myk

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@Myk do you have much experience with other sigelei models? I have the 150w TC and wondering how good of a mod it is? I picked it up about a month ago and am still learning about TC. May have got ahead of myself since I am still a bit of a noob.

No, just the 75w. It's soured me on the Sigelei name, I wouldn't trust getting a 150w. I know when they were first release the TC worked right, but getting two that do pretty much the same thing tells me they changed something, and they'd have to be pretty blind to release them like this.

You can test it if you make your own coils. Put a dry cotton wick in, set it to 400°F and fire it. It shouldn't turn it more than a light brown if that.
 

RenoMama

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Good to know. Thank you for the input. I bought it on kind of a spur of the moment at a local shop and was told I'd never need to buy another mod.
 

Myk

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Good to know. Thank you for the input. I bought it on kind of a spur of the moment at a local shop and was told I'd never need to buy another mod.

LOL, That's why I think TC is a good place to start. Although I wouldn't have "need" enter into it. A good TC mod pretty much has everything, can do everything. You can figure out exactly what you like and what works for you so you won't have to waste money buying things you don't like.
But need? I need about 5 tanks to have 5 different flavors loaded and I need 5 mods to hold those tanks so I don't have to change them. Or 8, yeah, I need 8, maybe 10 :)
 

RenoMama

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10 sounds like a good place to start. Lol. Variety is the spice of life.
 

Mroutlaw

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Do you still set a wattage when in temp mod? Like do you set it at 50w 500 degrees?

On the devices you set wattage, you are setting a cap on what you want. So if I set it at 50w, the mod won't go past that 50w. It will put as much power as it needs up to 50watts to get the coil to that temp but if it starts exceeding the temperature, it will dial the watts back.

Asides from no dry hits or burnt cotton, temperature control all serves a safety purpose. When you heat ejuice too hot it starts releasing carbonals (carcinogens). Temperature control helps prevent that from happening. Vaping at constant extreme wattages (80w, 100w, 150w) is definitely making the ejuice to hot.

The purpose of these high wattage devices like the dna200, snow wolf, xcube and other 100w devices is not so much for vaping at those wattages, but more for hitting the coil for a second or two to ramp it up quickly, hen dial it back.

It only takes about 30w to get your coil to 420degrees, but if for example, you have a Dna 200, you can have it hit the coil with 100watts to "preheat the coil" then it drops back to whatever you set it at, like 50watts
 

ej1024

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On the devices you set wattage, you are setting a cap on what you want. So if I set it at 50w, the mod won't go past that 50w. It will put as much power as it needs up to 50watts to get the coil to that temp but if it starts exceeding the temperature, it will dial the watts back.

Asides from no dry hits or burnt cotton, temperature control all serves a safety purpose. When you heat ejuice too hot it starts releasing carbonals (carcinogens). Temperature control helps prevent that from happening. Vaping at constant extreme wattages (80w, 100w, 150w) is definitely making the ejuice to hot.

The purpose of these high wattage devices like the dna200, snow wolf, xcube and other 100w devices is not so much for vaping at those wattages, but more for hitting the coil for a second or two to ramp it up quickly, hen dial it back.

It only takes about 30w to get your coil to 420degrees, but if for example, you have a Dna 200, you can have it hit the coil with 100watts to "preheat the coil" then it drops back to whatever you set it at, like 50watts
Really dude???
The only reason I'm buying a 200 watts mod is to heat up my coil? Are you serious?
I don't VAPE TC mode, I never get dry hits or burnt cotton, I VAPE around 80 watts 2-3 second draw, 100%vg.. So ur telling me that E-LIQUIDS when it gets too hot it becomes cancerous??? Can you prove this? and if the juice is set to let's say 510F the juice is not CARBONALS, do you have facts to support this? Because if you can! I will quite vaping!



VAPE ON
 
VW vs VT, pretty simple watts regulates the power put into the coil which means that it CAN get really hot if you keep the finger on the button too long......

Temperature on the other hand heats the coil to a certain temperature then keeps it there... Three problems with this, one is on some mods (sigelei 75) it can take several seconds to reach vaping temperature. Another is that you are using titanium or nickel alloy for heating elements. This can change the flavor considerably from what you get from kanthal (iron alloy) The last is that only a few manufacturers, not all have bothered to make replaceable coils for some but not all of their tanks.

As far as overheating juice, yes it is possible for VG to turn into certain dangerous chemicals, at temperatures well over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit in an oxygen free environment..... Sooooo you basically need to do it in a vacuum chamber. Dont believe me? Put a bit of veggy oil in a pan on high for a while, I bet it bursts into flames well before it hits the magic 1000+ temperature.
That and I have never heard of somebody deliberately vaping a flaming atty for long...... Stop believing the hype produced by those who arent making billions off of the vape industry and start looking fo9r reputable sources of your info.
 

Mroutlaw

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Really dude???
The only reason I'm buying a 200 watts mod is to heat up my coil? Are you serious?
I don't VAPE TC mode, I never get dry hits or burnt cotton, I VAPE around 80 watts 2-3 second draw, 100%vg.. So ur telling me that E-LIQUIDS when it gets too hot it becomes cancerous??? Can you prove this? and if the juice is set to let's say 510F the juice is not CARBONALS, do you have facts to support this? Because if you can! I will quite vaping!



VAPE ON

There have been several studies which have shown that heating PG and VG beyond certain levels will cause carbonyls, one of which is formaldehyde. These studies started years ago when we were only vaping up to 4.8v with 2.5ohm attys. And no one is saying that vaping at 510 is bad, but if you are vaping at 80watts, it is probably much higher than that. The truth is, no one knows yet what the exact level is because the research is not moving fast enough. Vaping is not safe, it is just probably safer than cigarettes. But we really don't know how much safer. Vaping technology is moving ridiculously fast. It wasn't too long ago when we wouldn't even consider vaping on a coil below 1 - 2 ohms and now most coils are below .5ohms. Hell, a year ago, people would call you crazy to vape of 40-50 watts. You also have to remember, there are lots of chemicals in the flavorings, which were designed for ingesting, not inhaling.

And yes, the main purpose for the 150 to 200 watt mods is for preheating the coils, not vaping at that high wattage. Try vaping on 200 watts and watch what happens to the coil and your battery, you'll be lucky to get 10 minutes out of a dna200.
 

ej1024

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There have been several studies which have shown that heating PG and VG beyond certain levels will cause carbonyls, one of which is formaldehyde. These studies started years ago when we were only vaping up to 4.8v with 2.5ohm attys. And no one is saying that vaping at 510 is bad, but if you are vaping at 80watts, it is probably much higher than that. The truth is, no one knows yet what the exact level is because the research is not moving fast enough. Vaping is not safe, it is just probably safer than cigarettes. But we really don't know how much safer. Vaping technology is moving ridiculously fast. It wasn't too long ago when we wouldn't even consider vaping on a coil below 1 - 2 ohms and now most coils are below .5ohms. Hell, a year ago, people would call you crazy to vape of 40-50 watts. You also have to remember, there are lots of chemicals in the flavorings, which were designed for ingesting, not inhaling.

And yes, the main purpose for the 150 to 200 watt mods is for preheating the coils, not vaping at that high wattage. Try vaping on 200 watts and watch what happens to the coil and your battery, you'll be lucky to get 10 minutes out of a dna200.
Thanks for the info,
But why do I need 200 watts to heat up a coil?
Nickel,titanium, requires 200 watts to heat it up?
Can you please elaborate?


VAPE ON
 

f1r3b1rd

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Ive been using tc since the first run dna40 boards and heres kind of the concept
It is not a thermostat, you don't set the temp and have it held there.
You set temp 'x' and the board essentially reads the resistance of the metal and as the resistance rises the heat also rises at the same ratio or temperature coefficient of resistance (tcr) this allows the board to calculate the temperature based on the change in the resistance.
Different metals have a different tcr, some have none or it is so small it is not calculable.(Kanthal for instance)

For the The dna200:
You don't need 200w, ive had my dna200 for about a month and took 2pulls at 200w and was done.
That number is there so that evolv could show their manhood.
The way I work the DNA 200 on average is with a dual coil build using SS at a 0.18-0.22 ohm build with a 1.5 sec preheat at 90w then down to 50-55w at 460°
Basically what it does is hit the coil at 95w until it sees the temp setting then drops it. (In a nutshell) and I have yet to even need the 95w with that build. The preheat lasts until you hit your temp setting or until the dent preheat time is reached, whichever happens first.

For the others:
Your wattage is hour power ceiling and your temp set is your heat ceiling,
If you set it to 55w/j it will fire that power until it approaches your temp setting them it backs down the power to ensure that you don't go over the temperature set.

How is 'tc. Different from power?
This answer will be different depending on the user, for me its the enjoyable, consistent vape and I can regulate the flavor of the juice based on temp rather than power. think lf pure power as a corvette, and temperature as a BMW. One is fast, hard and a sheer blast, the other is fast and smooth with nimble handling. Both are fantastic at what they do, they just offer a different style of an experience
Sometimes I want the vette- dual 22g Kanthal at a 0.25 on the hexohm at 5v(100w)
 
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Mroutlaw

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People like to heat it up quicker, so its an instant vape. its not just for temperature control, its for kanthal mode (or stainless steel), which is where most people use that much power, especially in drippers. So you say you like to vape at 80watts, right. Not sure what device you use, but a 200 watt device, like the dna200, would allow you to have a preheat of 200 watts for a second, and then drop it to 80 watts (or whatever settings you want). Remember, the lower the ohms, the longer it takes that coil to heat up. The 200 watts (again, or whatever you like) just heats the coil up quicker, but you wouldn't stay at that setting. On my DNA200, I use a preheat setting of 100watts for 1 second and then vape at 30-40watts. So if I take a 2 second vape, Im getting the same vape through the whole 2 seconds rather than 1 second of an anemic vape, followed by my full 40 watts. If I use my TFv4 with the 4 coil head, I set it to a preheat of 150 watts and then drop to 80watts. That allows the 4 coils to heat up quick and give me an instant vape

Until the DNA200, the temperature control devices never used that much power. For example, the SXmini M class, which can go to 150 watts with dual 18650, can only go to 75 joules in temperature control. The 150 watts isn't even available to it. Even on my Xcube 2, which is 150 watts, It will push as much power as it can to the coil in temperature control mode, but cut off when the coil gets to my desired temperature, which I have set for 450, it shuts off. I find that it happens to quick on that device, so I have it at a slow ramp up, and it starts at about 30 and then goes up or down to maintain my temperature. The problem with that is, there isn't as much vapor for the first half second or so.
 

ej1024

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Ive been using tc since the first run dna40 boards and heres kind of the concept
It is not a thermostat, you font set the temp and have it held there.
You set temp 'x' and the board essentially reads the resistance of the metal and as the resistance rises the heat also rises at the same ratio or temperature coefficient of resistance (tcr) this allows the board to calculate the temperature based on the change in the resistance.
Different metals have a different tcr, some have none or it is so small it is not calculable.(Kanthal for instance)

For the The dna200:
You don't need 200w, ive had my dna200 for about a month and took 2pulls at 200w and was done.
That number is there so that evolv could show their manhood.
The way I work the DNA 200 on average is with a dual coil build using SS at a 0.18-0.22 ohm build with a 1.5 sec preheat at 90w then down to 50-55w at 460°
Basically what it does is hit the coil at 95w until it sees the temp setting then drops it. (In a nutshell) and I have yet to even need the 95w with that build. The preheat lasts until you hit your temp setting or until the dent preheat time is reached, whichever happens first.

For the others:
Your wattage is hour power ceiling and your temp set is your heat ceiling,
If you set it to 55w/j it will fire that power until it approaches your temp setting them it backs down the power to ensure that you don't go over the temperature set.

How is 'tc. Different from power?
This answer will be different depending on the user, for me its the enjoyable, consistent vape and I can regulate the flavor of the juice based on temp rather than power. think lf pure power as a corvette, and temperature as a BMW. One is fast, hard and a sheer blast, the other is fast and smooth with nimble handling. Both are fantastic at what they do, they just offer a different style of an experience
Sometimes I want the vette- dual 22g Kanthal at a 0.25 on the hexohm at 5v(100w)
Thanks for the info..


VAPE ON
 

ej1024

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People like to heat it up quicker, so its an instant vape. its not just for temperature control, its for kanthal mode (or stainless steel), which is where most people use that much power, especially in drippers. So you say you like to vape at 80watts, right. Not sure what device you use, but a 200 watt device, like the dna200, would allow you to have a preheat of 200 watts for a second, and then drop it to 80 watts (or whatever settings you want). Remember, the lower the ohms, the longer it takes that coil to heat up. The 200 watts (again, or whatever you like) just heats the coil up quicker, but you wouldn't stay at that setting. On my DNA200, I use a preheat setting of 100watts for 1 second and then vape at 30-40watts. So if I take a 2 second vape, Im getting the same vape through the whole 2 seconds rather than 1 second of an anemic vape, followed by my full 40 watts. If I use my TFv4 with the 4 coil head, I set it to a preheat of 150 watts and then drop to 80watts. That allows the 4 coils to heat up quick and give me an instant vape

Until the DNA200, the temperature control devices never used that much power. For example, the SXmini M class, which can go to 150 watts with dual 18650, can only go to 75 joules in temperature control. The 150 watts isn't even available to it. Even on my Xcube 2, which is 150 watts, It will push as much power as it can to the coil in temperature control mode, but cut off when the coil gets to my desired temperature, which I have set for 450, it shuts off. I find that it happens to quick on that device, so I have it at a slow ramp up, and it starts at about 30 and then goes up or down to maintain my temperature. The problem with that is, there isn't as much vapor for the first half second or so.
Ok ok, WOW since I never really explored TC I never really know how it works, I'm still gonna get the sig 200 watts when it comes out maybe by then I will start exploring this temp modes, thanks so much for the Infos, in the mean time I will stick to my power mode..
Thanks again


VAPE ON
 

Mroutlaw

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Ok ok, WOW since I never really explored TC I never really know how it works, I'm still gonna get the sig 200 watts when it comes out maybe by then I will start exploring this temp modes, thanks so much for the Infos, in the mean time I will stick to my power mode..
Thanks again


VAPE ON
No problem.

Theres nothing wrong with power mode. I use it sometimes. I prefer temperature control because, for me, its more consistent. The nice thing is that most of the devices coming out now have the TC, so you have the ability to use both.
 

SoCal_Son

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On the devices you set wattage, you are setting a cap on what you want. So if I set it at 50w, the mod won't go past that 50w. It will put as much power as it needs up to 50watts to get the coil to that temp but if it starts exceeding the temperature, it will dial the watts back.

Asides from no dry hits or burnt cotton, temperature control all serves a safety purpose. When you heat ejuice too hot it starts releasing carbonals (carcinogens). Temperature control helps prevent that from happening. Vaping at constant extreme wattages (80w, 100w, 150w) is definitely making the ejuice to hot.

The purpose of these high wattage devices like the dna200, snow wolf, xcube and other 100w devices is not so much for vaping at those wattages, but more for hitting the coil for a second or two to ramp it up quickly, hen dial it back.

It only takes about 30w to get your coil to 420degrees, but if for example, you have a Dna 200, you can have it hit the coil with 100watts to "preheat the coil" then it drops back to whatever you set it at, like 50watts
You hit the nail on the head. TC in the sense it's marketed is more a misnomer when the actual experience is about limiting or imposing caps. It's more like setting the thermostat for AC than baking at a desired temperature. I've got mods with the DNA 200, YIHI, GX, and SXK chips and I've not gone beyond 36-37watts in "TC" mode. I find the slower ramp to temp provides a more consistent experience than a fast ramp and having the pulse feature kick in.

SoCal Son
 

eruptedvapor

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This should likely be a separate forum topic, but I thought I'd put this bit of research I did out there.

The picture below is from a screen grab this article. What this is saying is as follows;

Formaldehyde release is caused by higher voltage vaping. At 3.2 volts, no mixture (Pure PG, Pure VG, 50/50) released Formaldehyde in measurable amounts (based on the test parameters). At 4.0 volts, the measurements are very low. However, when the test moved to 4.8 volts, the 50/50 mix moved to around 27 micrograms per 15 puffs. The pure pg mixture at 4.8 volts was at roughly 17 micrograms per 15 puffs. Lastly, and most interestingly, the pure VG blend was close to near zero.

Now, we see that the 50/50 blend had the highest output at 4.8 volts and to be honest, it was a very sizable jump. According to the article, PG is the culprit, but there must be some kind of interplay between the VG and PG as far as output of carbonyl compounds are concerned.

Bearing this in mind, I would (and do) advocate higher VG blends for practically any device. For pen styles a mix would seem, according to this, a safe thing to use (for a given value of safe, these aren't fruits and vegetables, people. Let's not confuse safe to use, with good for you). This is because pen style devices do not typically use very high levels of volts. Conversely, it would be wise to focus on how high your volts are getting while vaping. You'll notice on larger devices (higher watt devices) that the volts will increase as your watts increase. This is a directly proportional relationship.

As an example, I am currently vaping on my Vengeance tank. It's reading .25 Ohms, 68.5 Watts and around 4.2 Volts. My mixture is a 90/10 (VG/PG). This means, my measurement levels of these carbonyls are very low, based upon this specific study.

Now, this information is useless without a good comparison. Fortunately, this article comes through for us. Within the Abstract, where you'll find Results, this phrase is present "The amounts of formaldehyde and acetaldehyde in vapors from lower voltage EC were on average 13- and 807-fold lower than in tobacco smoke, respectively. The highest levels of carbonyls were observed in vapors generated from PG-based solutions." What is this saying, that's the question. Essentially - formaldehyde production is 13 times lower then cigarettes and acetaldehyde is 807 times lower. Conversely, higher Watt mods can produce these two carbonyls at equal rates to cigarettes.

Just remember, that being informed is your best way to vaping in a healthier way.

Hope this helps. I'm aware it's a wall of words, sorry. (EDIT - added a few things for clarity. Grammar, FTW!)

Justin with Erupted Vapor
 

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Myk

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You pretty much wasted all that time on formaldelies.
We all know voltage without watts is as meaningless as not knowing liquid flow rate.

That has nothing to do with TC. We don't know at what temperature aldehydes are created but we do know our taste is a very sensitive to it.
For TC don't set your mod to burn. Hope it has dry hit control for the temperature you set.
 

Powerman

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So for the OP, feel is subjective. I could not run my subtank mini over 20w without burnt hit. The vape wasn't warn. Never even knew what that was. So I get the D2 and Crown tank. Huge difference. In power mode, I can go to full 75w, but it's hot. Wouldn't want much more than that. Burnt hits are not even a worry. Running TC, well with all the air, the vape is cold. So smooth you don't even think it's working. But that is temp control. It's limiting to that temp. No telling what temp is getting to in power.

So now I have a SX mini. I still don't care for hot vape, but I got real used to warm. TC doesn't really do warm unless I jack it all the way up and fake out the best a bit. The box is limited to 575F. I'm at 550, 75j, and my TCR is set higher than what it is. That might be giving me a temp of 600-650. Who knows. It's limiting. Cause it still isn't what 75w is in power mode. With correct TCR at 550F, it's a cool vape.

So it is what it is. If you want balls out every thing you can handle, then TC is not for you. If you want a cool consistent vape, you have to have TC. A warmish vape on TC is still not getting as hot as power modes are doing. That is if you are concerned with higher Temps and what that means for flavor, or harmful chemical formation. As far as burnt hits.... Well, TC will definitely take care of that... But so will getting a good tank made to flow and wick well. That's definitely not the subtank mini. Most of the new vertical coil tanks with huge holes don't have that problem at any power level most would vape at.
 

MrScaryZ

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There have been several studies which have shown that heating PG and VG beyond certain levels will cause carbonyls, one of which is formaldehyde. These studies started years ago when we were only vaping up to 4.8v with 2.5ohm attys. And no one is saying that vaping at 510 is bad, but if you are vaping at 80watts, it is probably much higher than that. The truth is, no one knows yet what the exact level is because the research is not moving fast enough. Vaping is not safe, it is just probably safer than cigarettes. But we really don't know how much safer. Vaping technology is moving ridiculously fast. It wasn't too long ago when we wouldn't even consider vaping on a coil below 1 - 2 ohms and now most coils are below .5ohms. Hell, a year ago, people would call you crazy to vape of 40-50 watts. You also have to remember, there are lots of chemicals in the flavorings, which were designed for ingesting, not inhaling.

And yes, the main purpose for the 150 to 200 watt mods is for preheating the coils, not vaping at that high wattage. Try vaping on 200 watts and watch what happens to the coil and your battery, you'll be lucky to get 10 minutes out of a dna200.
Your logic is flawed... It is not VG when heated it is PG
 

OneBadWolf

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These studies started years ago when we were only vaping up to 4.8v with 2.5ohm attys


And after some protracted pesting by the good Dr.Farsilinos, they released their methodology for those experiments which showed that they were driving CE4s at 12-14 watts in order to get their formalydehyde.
 

Diesel_Danno

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just found this post, thanks to everyone who posted good information. covered a lot of questions i had, looking to get into tc. The only question i still have: titanium versus nickel? i know there was a bit of debate over heated nickel releasing particles, but i know titanium is toxic when hot enough to release gas. I also know that it takes a welder to generate those temps, not a vape mod. an earlier post mentioned its a matter of preference, but can someone please try to describe the difference? Thanks in advance
 

Myk

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just found this post, thanks to everyone who posted good information. covered a lot of questions i had, looking to get into tc. The only question i still have: titanium versus nickel? i know there was a bit of debate over heated nickel releasing particles, but i know titanium is toxic when hot enough to release gas. I also know that it takes a welder to generate those temps, not a vape mod. an earlier post mentioned its a matter of preference, but can someone please try to describe the difference? Thanks in advance

I don't think we know for sure.

My thought is the people against Ni made a good case that it could release into the liquid without heat.
So I prefer Ti. My thought there is that titanium dioxide that is the known inhalation problem is the dust. That is produced at temperatures hot enough that your coil will be brittle and destroyed. You mention gas but what I know of metals causing irritating gas is that's also very hot, this is the first I've really thought of that.
I don't think either will be getting hot enough to be a problem with normal vaping temperatures. If you're getting that hot you're making vaping itself a potential problem.
I use both (but more Ti). I can't see even the worst fear mongering being as bad as cigarettes.

But my Ni coil is with a liquid that has cinnamon (bad) and acetoin (potentially 7% diacetyl). I'm still invincible :)
 

Mroutlaw

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just found this post, thanks to everyone who posted good information. covered a lot of questions i had, looking to get into tc. The only question i still have: titanium versus nickel? i know there was a bit of debate over heated nickel releasing particles, but i know titanium is toxic when hot enough to release gas. I also know that it takes a welder to generate those temps, not a vape mod. an earlier post mentioned its a matter of preference, but can someone please try to describe the difference? Thanks in advance

When using temperature control, your coils won't get hot enough to worry about that, however never use titanium or nickel in wattage mode. Also never dry fire, dry burn or pulse your coils with no eliquid, regardless of what people say.

I prefer titanium because it's easier to work with. Nickel is a bitch because it's so soft and the resistance Is so low, you need a lot of wraps. It's kinda a PITA when you need 10 or 12 spaced wraps.

Also, though some people do it, temperature control works best with spaced coils, not touching


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Myk

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however never use titanium or nickel in wattage mode.

Not a problem, although not a desirable vape.
You still can't cause a wet coil to glow. Even more so because wattage isn't continuous read like TC. When the button is pushed voltage is set based on the ohms read at that point. Ohms increase as the coil heats up, requires more volts to keep the wattage but they're not there. You need to continually bump the fire button to get it to increase and eventually you can't bump it fast enough.
It's a very inconsistent vape but it's not overheating unless you set it to overheat.

I occasionally pop into VW for a bit of strange.
 

Nancy_Bout

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I have the EvicVT and I have it at 590 degrees w the crown... It's very good BUT I prefer what I'm used to


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CharlesInCharge

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I love tc. My everyday mod is my D2 with TiWire. I love that I can vape it down without a dry hit and switch flavors without the old flavor lingering around.
 

Powerman

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So just so it is said... TC can most certainly burn a hit. Cotton begins burning at 400F ish. I've seen 413F. If your temp is set at 500, and your wick runs dry, it will definitely burn cotton.

So far my experience has been 400F is a really cool vape on a tank with a lot of air. Like I can't even feel it. I run mine 450-500 for a warmish vape. 550 isn't too hot.

I've done burn tests, but not super conclusive. I can smell burnt around 420, but can't see it. I can see a little smoke around 450-480. That would still be a burnt hit, but not a lung full. 550 is a lung full. Like instant thick smoke. Maybe start on fire if I let it go. But that is on bone dry cotton.

Running TC over 400F is still better than letting power go unchecked. But TC alone is not burn proof.
 

f1r3b1rd

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So just so it is said... TC can most certainly burn a hit. Cotton begins burning at 400F ish. I've seen 413F. If your temp is set at 500, and your wick runs dry, it will definitely burn cotton.

So far my experience has been 400F is a really cool vape on a tank with a lot of air. Like I can't even feel it. I run mine 450-500 for a warmish vape. 550 isn't too hot.

I've done burn tests, but not super conclusive. I can smell burnt around 420, but can't see it. I can see a little smoke around 450-480. That would still be a burnt hit, but not a lung full. 550 is a lung full. Like instant thick smoke. Maybe start on fire if I let it go. But that is on bone dry cotton.

Running TC over 400F is still better than letting power go unchecked. But TC alone is not burn proof.
Interesting,
Using tc for me was never about avoiding a dry hit. -my first dry hit at 90w taught me to make sure i keep my wick wet. Lol
I always saw that as a happy side effect. For myself TC has always been about that smooth consistent, vape; and, being able to dial in a certain flavor profile.
Although I do still remember tap dancing when I realized I could let a build go for eons without changing the wick or coil.
 

Powerman

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Interesting,
Using tc for me was never about avoiding a dry hit. -my first dry hit at 90w taught me to make sure i keep my wick wet. Lol
I always saw that as a happy side effect. For myself TC has always been about that smooth consistent, vape; and, being able to dial in a certain flavor profile.
Although I do still remember tap dancing when I realized I could let a build go for eons without changing the wick or coil.

Without knowing anything about TC, I looked into it to avoid burnt hits on my Kanger. I see plenty of new comers saying the same thing.

But now playing with it... I'm with you. First, get a tank and coil/wick that can do what you vape and you won't get burnt hits. And TC is definitly smooth and consistent. Still keeping the benefits of TC. quick heat up and avoiding over the top hot vape. I hit my coil with 100w, but once thats done, i'm only doing like 15-20w to keep it there for the pull. Vapor without unnecessary heat or flavor killing break down. The Crown pretty much solved my burnt hit problems. TC is definitely something I'm sticking with.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Without knowing anything about TC, I looked into it to avoid burnt hits on my Kanger. I see plenty of new comers saying the same thing.

But now playing with it... I'm with you. First, get a tank and coil/wick that can do what you vape and you won't get burnt hits. And TC is definitly smooth and consistent. Still keeping the benefits of TC. quick heat up and avoiding over the top hot vape. I hit my coil with 100w, but once thats done, i'm only doing like 15-20w to keep it there for the pull. Vapor without unnecessary heat or flavor killing break down. The Crown pretty much solved my burnt hit problems. TC is definitely something I'm sticking with.
Roger that dude! The first thing I noticed when I started using it, last year (wow its only been a year that its been out)
Total resistance is not as important, neither is dialing in power setting. The yihi board was definitely a huge step forward and does w great job trying to maintain temp but the frequency pulse can be irritating at higher resistance. Where the dna200 really matures tc is temp, preheat power and time of preheat. The rest is just limitation since the board is more guided by the temperature and uses your power setting as limitations. It pretty much decides how much power to send in order to not cross your temp setting. It really makes the vape smoother than anything else I've tried.

Using the same wire lets me pretty much have three active profiles, tank, rba and RDA. The board pretty much manages the rest depending on resistance and temp setting. -kinda cool.
 

CharlesInCharge

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So just so it is said... TC can most certainly burn a hit. Cotton begins burning at 400F ish. I've seen 413F. If your temp is set at 500, and your wick runs dry, it will definitely burn cotton.

So far my experience has been 400F is a really cool vape on a tank with a lot of air. Like I can't even feel it. I run mine 450-500 for a warmish vape. 550 isn't too hot.

I've done burn tests, but not super conclusive. I can smell burnt around 420, but can't see it. I can see a little smoke around 450-480. That would still be a burnt hit, but not a lung full. 550 is a lung full. Like instant thick smoke. Maybe start on fire if I let it go. But that is on bone dry cotton.

Running TC over 400F is still better than letting power go unchecked. But TC alone is not burn proof.
No, it's not burn proof but I never let my wick go completely dry either. At a point where kanthal will burn the shit out of my throat TiWire doesn't is what was getting at.
 

wally

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I have the I stick 60 using tc mode with titanium running temp at 460 with melo 2 love that combination. I used one of the coils that came with it but it seemed not stable so I used a buildable rta in the melo at .6 ohm which really worked perfect. I tried the nickel but I just did not like the flavor it produced. Now that I'm using temp I am really enjoying the flavor a lot more. It really surprised me how much different (better) the flavors taste.
 

Powerman

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No, it's not burn proof but I never let my wick go completely dry either. At a point where kanthal will burn the shit out of my throat TiWire doesn't is what was getting at.
Ya, no sweat. I just meant in general not at you. And once you know it, then it's understood. But new folks might not pick up on that. It's all good.
 

ej1024

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In the mean time, this are popping out like ANTS Clapton coil heads, if u want flavor THIS
cf7727059b770f4a57ebbb4474b22e16.jpg



VAPE ON
 

SailCat

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Wow. I have four TC mods and use them daily. Cotton doe not burn and it is possible, even preferable. to vape them dry for very little transfer of flavor when changing from one juice to another.
 

Powerman

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Wow. I have four TC mods and use them daily. Cotton doe not burn and it is possible, even preferable. to vape them dry for very little transfer of flavor when changing from one juice to another.
Well, then your temp is set below the temp for cotton to burn. That's around 400F. Read world. Not the number on a display. Combustion is very simple, heat, fuel, oxygen, reaction. Works every time.

EDIT: to add to that. Juice boils at 450F for VG. PG is lower. I forget the exact number... Anyway, so actually temp has to get to there to vaporize. But if the cotton fiber is covered in juice, it is not exposed to air to burn. But evaporate the juice off... Cotton burns.
 

Myk

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Actually I think the rate it heats above the setting triggers a dry coil on good ones.

So if you're set at 320°F you'll have a very wet "dry coil". If you're set at 420°F although that is above where cotton burns it will have a damp enough "dry coil" to keep it from burning.
I don't know at what point you'll get a burnt "dry coil" where it's dry enough to actually burn it.

Also something to consider is that the temperature set is not necessarily the temperature reached.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Actually I think the rate it heats above the setting triggers a dry coil on good ones.

So if you're set at 320°F you'll have a very wet "dry coil". If you're set at 420°F although that is above where cotton burns it will have a damp enough "dry coil" to keep it from burning.
I don't know at what point you'll get a burnt "dry coil" where it's dry enough to actually burn it.

Also something to consider is that the temperature set is not necessarily the temperature reached.
Some truth to that.
Keep in mind, its sensing the increase in resistance of the metal as its excited (firing), not the temperature of the cotton.
At its simplest form, its using the change in the resistance to estimate the temperature of the metal. No matter what metal you use for TL the temperature of the metal increases at some constant rate with its resistance(Temperature Coefficient of Resistance). with all the variables going on in vaping it won't be exact. That's just the nature of it.
However, to the dampness issue- as the metal dries the temperature(and resistance) of it is going to rise faster. So what the mod is doing is sensing that metal getting hotter(resistance rising), not the cotton drying. But if its damp, as the coil heats up and the mod shuts down the cotton is going to pull the available juice into that dry spot.

I realize alot of that is repetitive but partially written for the lurkers ...hello lurkers
 
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Powerman

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Some truth to that.
Keep in mind, its sensing the increase in resistance of the metal as its excited (firing), not the temperature of the cotton.
At its simplest form, its using the change in the resistance to estimate the temperature of the metal. No matter what metal you use for TL the temperature of the metal increases at some constant rate with its resistance(Temperature Coefficient of Resistance). with all the variables going on in vaping it won't be exact. That's just the nature of it.
However, to the dampness issue- as the metal dries the temperature(and resistance) of it is going to rise faster. So what the mod is doing is sensing that metal getting hotter(resistance rising), not the cotton drying. But if its damp, as the coil heats up and the mod shuts down the cotton is going to pull the available juice into that dry spot.

I realize alot of that is repetitive but partially written for the lurkers ...hello lurkers
Yep. And if we are using SS for a wire, the accuracy is going to be decreased because the resistance rise is much smaller. PG boils at 370F, but VG boils at 554F. So it has to get to that temp just to vaporize. With nic or flavorings added it will be a bit lower all mixed up. But the point is just to produce vapor you can already be over cotton's burn temp. The fire point of cotton is 410F according to wiki. The point at which vapor produced can sustain a flame. The auto ignition temp is 765F. Just some random trivia for ya. :)
 

f1r3b1rd

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Yep. And if we are using SS for a wire, the accuracy is going to be decreased because the resistance rise is much smaller. PG boils at 370F, but VG boils at 554F. So it has to get to that temp just to vaporize. With nic or flavorings added it will be a bit lower all mixed up. But the point is just to produce vapor you can already be over cotton's burn temp. The fire point of cotton is 410F according to wiki. The point at which vapor produced can sustain a flame. The auto ignition temp is 765F. Just some random trivia for ya. :)
See, the engineer in me sees those numbers and says, just give me smooth tasty vapor, lmao
 

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