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The Merlin RTA by Augvape and Roxy

dave61

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Member For 4 Years
From what ive gathered so far, above ohm it works well. Those that have had leaking issues in the begining theirs works now that they figured out how to control the wicking.

Those of us that have had no leaking issues since day 1 are having an issue with subohm and burnt/dry hits with NO flavor..........AT ALL. I spoke to a couple other guys here that the same thing is happening. Were under the assumption we may have just gotten a slightly defective or just not perfect unit.

Dont get me wrong I think its a great tank I love everything about it but I just cant get a good vape off it. Its a sad day. I dont think its user error becouse I have skills with building and I have some others that will back me that they are going through the same.

Looking for the answer,
:)



Ive run down to .3 ohms clapton and got up to 50 watts without burnt hits
I only stopped there because the heat was becoming uncomfortable to me

I did on one build get dry hits at 20 watts with a 1.0ohms build and I had stuffed to much cotton in the cup and channel
Once I rewicked I took a single 1.0 2.5mm coil to 40 watts without burnt hits
 

52anddone

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Once I get my sockets in place I tap on the socket
The socket on the bottom has the 510 pin in the middle of the socket opening

the socket on the top of the base covers just the outer rim making sure it doesnt damage the oring or threads

And lightly tapping all around the top of the socket

So far the tank with the looser juice control seepage is down no more than a tank will sweat

The tank with the tighter juice control no leakage at all its just sweating like is normal
93 degree heat yesterday the tank did sweat but no dripping down the mod

Seems for my bases they just were not fully seated

Dont know if thats everyones problem or not

That will be the first thing I'll try on my Old base, when my New base arrives. Thank You dave.
 
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52anddone

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im doing the same however I do believe it was the coil because its working great at 1.23o now.

If anyone ran this tank in subohm and its working great please post the specs of your coil. Fanciest I go is fused clapton

Right now I'm running a 3mm ID, Twisted 30gx3 Kanthal, 7/6 wraps spaced @ .74Ω with Rayon on a Black Presa 100 TC/Black Merlin (looks Nice), coil is about 2mm up from the air tube and I'm getting some Real Nice Flavor from my Unflavored Mix of 50/50 @ 10mg/ml with 2% FA Flash. Hope this helps. The flavor I am getting is so good that it is hard for me to put down, even though it is a leaker.

I am running the included air Restrictor and am using both bottom post holes.
 

52anddone

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Since I used Ryedan's method of cramming a longer wick into the juice cups, and Dave's (?) suggestion of barely opening the JFC, it's definitely better. I was at the point of condensation only on my mod, but had a little bit of juice on it today when I woke up. Ryedan suggested after I had success with stuffing the wicking into the cups to see if there's any difference with opening up the JFC, but I've yet to do that, since it's gotten much better. Maybe I'll go ahead anyway. This one has the original size JFC. I haven't built the new one I got. It's in a drawer, for now.

I have my coil in the top 2 post holes, raised in line with the top of the posts. I've always gotten good flavor. Flavor has been phenomenal from the beginning. Simple ol' coil, 3mm ID, spaced - 28g.

Do you remember the post of Ryedan's explaining his wicking method ?? I'm rolling Snake Eyes trying to find it (it doesn't help out that my mouse is Spastic :tantrum: either, when I want a single click it will double click all by itself, also makes it hard to like a post :gaah: ).
 
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rolf 2

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dave !
tried your method one yesterday and made it much better but not quite there jet.did not want to overdue it
just done the second one it also made a difference the jc turns easier and af ring turns a little harder , be beautiful if the leaks be gone !
ill let you guys know .
used an old lavatube .. battery out ..and set the base on it upside down on it ..fits nice and then used a socket and hammer ontop
took some pictures but cant upload them because there down for maintenance at photo bucket !
so far I never got an answer back from rts .
 

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dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
dave !
tried your method one yesterday and made it much better but not quite there jet.did not want to overdue it
just done the second one it also made a difference the jc turns easier and af ring turns a little harder , be beautiful if the leaks be gone !
ill let you guys know .
used an old lavatube .. battery out ..and set the base on it upside down on it ..fits nice and then used a socket and hammer ontop
took some pictures but cant upload them because there down for maintenance at photo bucket !
so far I never got an answer back from rts .


I Did one of mine twice for it to work
Like you I didnt want to destroy the base so only very lite tapping with the hammer
 

OhmzRaw

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hi guys, sorry if this has already been asked or discussed.

Which coil build do you guys suggest for this RTA? I'm using a twisted clapton and the coil produces too much heat and has too little airflow so there's a lot of vapor being produced even after I stop taking a pull. So basically I'm looking for a coil that is very affective with the heat and gives off excellent flavor.
 

iVape

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Hi guys, sorry if this has already been asked or discussed.

Which coil build do you guys suggest for this RTA? I'm using a twisted clapton and the coil produces too much heat and has too little airflow so there's a lot of vapor being produced even after I stop taking a pull. So basically I'm looking for a coil that is very affective with the heat and gives off excellent flavor.
This is the issue that me and a couple others have been having
 

Huckleberried

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Do you remember the post of Ryedan's explaining his wicking method ?? I'm rolling Snake Eyes trying to find it (it doesn't help out that my mouse is Spastic either, when I want a single click it will double click all by itself, also makes it hard to like a post ).
I'll go looking, it was within the last few days. Basically, it was using longer wicking, and filling up the juice cups with it. I'm using rayon and high PG juice, so keep that in mind, too. I'll tag you if I find the posts.
 

advancedvapesupply

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From what ive gathered so far, above ohm it works well. Those that have had leaking issues in the begining theirs works now that they figured out how to control the wicking.

Those of us that have had no leaking issues since day 1 are having an issue with subohm and burnt/dry hits with NO flavor..........AT ALL. I spoke to a couple other guys here that the same thing is happening. Were under the assumption we may have just gotten a slightly defective or just not perfect unit.

Dont get me wrong I think its a great tank I love everything about it but I just cant get a good vape off it. Its a sad day. I dont think its user error becouse I have skills with building and I have some others that will back me that they are going through the same.

Looking for the answer,
:)
Coil placement, wick speed, coil placement some more. Raise them coils WAY up!

Burnt hits is most likely a wick issue

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

DebbieNY

Member For 4 Years
If this o-ring is gone, what problems can I get?

c880ab39201e4c7288449448467baefa.jpg

I was missing my O-ring there and it leaked like mad, but I have the stainless steel version, so I wonder if the black coating is creating a better seal for you, hence no leak. :huh:
 

rolf 2

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Hi guys, sorry if this has already been asked or discussed.

Which coil build do you guys suggest for this RTA? I'm using a twisted clapton and the coil produces too much heat and has too little airflow so there's a lot of vapor being produced even after I stop taking a pull. So basically I'm looking for a coil that is very affective with the heat and gives off excellent flavor.
well what I want in a vape is probably much different then most.i hate a hot vape also like fast heat up and cool down .
also vape at 14 to 18 watts .
for me I like twisted wire kanthal ...like 4 strands 34 or 3 strands 30 gage . about 2.5 or 3 mm id coils . plus or minus 7 wraps to be around 1.2 to 1.4 ohms. . also prfere single coils . but its what you like so do some experimenting .
 

Huckleberried

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well what I want in a vape is probably much different then most.i hate a hot vape also like fast heat up and cool down .
also vape at 14 to 18 watts .
for me I like twisted wire kanthal ...like 4 strands 34 or 3 strands 30 gage . about 2.5 or 3 mm id coils . plus or minus 7 wraps to be around 1.2 to 1.4 ohms. . also prfere single coils . but its what you like so do some experimenting .
This is kinda where I'm at, but I use 28 g, not twisted, just a plain ol' coil.
 

SirKadly

Squonk 'em if you got 'em
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Personally I think that this RTA works best with relatively basic coils, simple standard coils, maybe twisted or even parallel, but it isn't really a tank for fancier coils. JMHO, your mileage may vary, but I think it performs great with a simple standard 26g or 28g spaced coil.
 

Whirlwind

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I normally use a kanthal 28g touching 2.5 id 1.3 ohm at about 12 watts with restrictor in which is the perfect vape for me. I just tried a twisted kanthal 28g 3.0 id 1.0 ohm and the flavor seems about the same but warmer and a bit of bubbling. I think for me i will just keep it simple and stick with what i am used to.
 

rolf 2

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I normally use a kanthal 28g touching 2.5 id 1.3 ohm at about 12 watts with restrictor in which is the perfect vape for me. I just tried a twisted kanthal 28g 3.0 id 1.0 ohm and the flavor seems about the same but warmer and a bit of bubbling. I think for me i will just keep it simple and stick with what i am used to.
jep a standard micro coil 28g allways worked good for me . I use thinner gages for twisting .
my worst coil is the simplest ..because it s made and came with an atty I am trying...ss notched omg that's horrible !!
damend near burned my lips . put in one of my coils and a longer ,more restricted drip tip and that made it a different atty.
in the merlin I have the resticter in there and even try to make a more restricted insert but its ok the way it is
 

52anddone

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huckleberried !
I had some good luck with 28 g to .. they are not as spungy as twisted and are easier to wick to . I think the flavor is a little better on the twisted

YES, I agree. I used to use 28g Kanthal all the time, then one day I bought some 30gx2 Twisted Kanthal and had a noticeable improvement in flavor, so I have been running 30gx2 for almost a year now. Just recently I bought some 30gx3 Twisted Kanthal and made a 6 or 7 wrap coil, 3mm ID wicked with Rayon and put that in my Merlin and am trying it out. But going from 28g single wire to 30gx2 Twisted Kanthal was a definite improvement flavor wise. All my coils are spaced BTW, I think I get better performance/flavor with spaced over contact coils (when I say Spaced coils I'm talking maybe .1 mm to .2 mm, I cannot slide a thin pocket knifes blade in the spaces between the coils, but maybe a sheet of paper will fit).
 
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52anddone

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Member For 3 Years
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I normally use a kanthal 28g touching 2.5 id 1.3 ohm at about 12 watts with restrictor in which is the perfect vape for me. I just tried a twisted kanthal 28g 3.0 id 1.0 ohm and the flavor seems about the same but warmer and a bit of bubbling. I think for me i will just keep it simple and stick with what i am used to.

I also tried some 28gx2 Twisted Kanthal and found that my ohms were a lot lower than I like to run (or I'm having to use too many wraps), also the ramp-up and cool-down was longer (Heat Flux) and I had to put more power into it than I wanted, didn't notice any improvement in flavor over 30gx2 or 30gx3 Twisted on a 2.5mm/3mm ID and maybe even less for the way I like to vape, I think that 30g Twisted/Spaced/Rayon is about optimal for my style of vaping (now that I have Rayon all figured out, but KGD ain't bad either).
 
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rolf 2

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I also tried some 28gx2 Twisted Kanthal and found that my ohms were a lot lower than I like to run (or I'm having to use too many wraps), also the ramp-up and cool-down was longer (Heat Flux) and I had to put more power into it than I wanted, didn't notice any improvement in flavor over 30gx2 or 30gx3 Twisted on a 2.5mm/3mm ID and maybe even less for the way I like to vape, I think that 30g Twisted/Spaced/Rayon is about optimal for my style of vaping (now that I have Rayon all figured out, but KGD ain't bad either).
twisted 28 I never tried . tried 1strand 28 with 34 wrap claptons but did not like it . allways coming back to twisted . even if it is a little more spungy and spacing is just about by default well a little . when dryburning it will never compress like a 28g micro. but that little spacing is just as good or even better for flavor .as far as wicking goes I am using both rayon and cotton . both with good results . rayon stuffed a little tighter so .
forgot the name of the cotton ....g 5 ...5g ..?? it is very directional strands .
long time ago also tried hemp fiber ! still have a huge box full of that .
 

TrollDragon

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Member For 4 Years
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twisted 28 I never tried . tried 1strand 28 with 34 wrap claptons but did not like it . allways coming back to twisted . even if it is a little more spungy and spacing is just about by default well a little . when dryburning it will never compress like a 28g micro. but that little spacing is just as good or even better for flavor .as far as wicking goes I am using both rayon and cotton . both with good results . rayon stuffed a little tighter so .
forgot the name of the cotton ....g 5 ...5g ..?? it is very directional strands .
long time ago also tried hemp fiber ! still have a huge box full of that .
I run twisted 28g Unkamen SS430 in 2 strand and/or 4 strand, a very solid performer!

A local B&M brought in degummed hemp fiber as a wick alternative. He must have gotten a great deal from the supplier as he brought in a ton of the stuff. I tried a package of it and quickly labeled it "Monkey Ass Hair Wick", in the garbage it went. Many, many months later said B&M ended up tossing the not so popular hemp fiber wick in the dumpster... :giggle:
 

rolf 2

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Member For 2 Years
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I run twisted 28g Unkamen SS430 in 2 strand and/or 4 strand, a very solid performer!

A local B&M brought in degummed hemp fiber as a wick alternative. He must have gotten a great deal from the supplier as he brought in a ton of the stuff. I tried a package of it and quickly labeled it "Monkey Ass Hair Wick", in the garbage it went. Many, many months later said B&M ended up tossing the not so popular hemp fiber wick in the dumpster... :giggle:
that's funny !
that big box full was the minemum order . not proud of that decition ...monkey ass hair ?? not to appetizing !!
 

DP2Raja

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OK, got the SS Merlin V2 in today from FT. This thing is sweet. I have the V1 as well. They pretty much vape exactly the same. The base on this one is perfect. No leaking. Easy adjust on AFC and a good tight JFC, but turns without a problem. Running a 3.2 ID Tigerwire coil at 0.42 ohms. 35 watts. Beautiful vape. Great flavor.
All the machining is perfect, glass fits perfect and had nice smooth edges. I put the smoked glass on and can see the JFC openings just fine. On my black V1 it was hard to see with the dark juice I use. Put the clear glass on my black one and it looks great. Even better looking than the smoked glass on it.

Looks great on my desk next to my Boreas. My two fav tanks!

EDIT: Just want to clarify...my black V1 does NOT leak either and never has. So both of mine seem to have really good bases on them. I feel very lucky.
 
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Lefty

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I got one from efun for $16.99. I ordered it before running across this thread and was mildly alarmed at the QC issues some were encountering. The one I got appears to be V1 and while the AFC seems to be a little loose, still some airflow when closed, thankfully all else appears to be good. Running 28G 316L wrapped on a #6 machine screw in TC at .8 and 20W. Took out the airflow restriction piece and have the AFC wide open but using a bit narrower drip tip than came with it for a draw that's on the very loose end of MTL - tight end of LH. The 510's a little long for the VTC mini so I've got it shimmed with a business card trimmed to fit until the mod guards from Kidneypuncher show up and it's stayed dry as a bone. I've got it wicked with JC trimmed about even with the base and tucked to cover the holes using max VG and have basically had no issues except the quality of the set screws leaves something to be desired. Great taste and a pain free top fill and can access the build without dumping juice, I'm happy as long as it holds up. It's a shame it comes down to luck of the draw but Chinese factories aren't renowned for QC and that's the only way to keep the price down.
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
For the record...

I popped my base open (finally) and got the see the innards the other night.

Based on the design, there is virtually no way this tank will ever shut down "zero air flow" even with the AFC ring completely closed.

Basically, there is no o-ring around the AFC ring. So whatever gap is between the AFC ring and the bottom will always be the minimum allowed airflow. Unless you get creative with tape, silicon, etc...

Here's a pic of the insides for anyone interested... I think we're way past "Please don't post pictures of the disassembled deck because cloners..." If I opened it while trying not to destroy it, I'm sure the cloners have no problem doing the same.

pieces.jpg
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
For the record...

I popped my base open (finally) and got the see the innards the other night.

Based on the design, there is virtually no way this tank will ever shut down "zero air flow" even with the AFC ring completely closed.

Basically, there is no o-ring around the AFC ring. So whatever gap is between the AFC ring and the bottom will always be the minimum allowed airflow. Unless you get creative with tape, silicon, etc...

Here's a pic of the insides for anyone interested... I think we're way past "Please don't post pictures of the disassembled deck because cloners..." If I opened it while trying not to destroy it, I'm sure the cloners have no problem doing the same.

View attachment 55409
amen ...thanks for posting that !
cloners would have that done that a long time ago
I emailed rts and told them that I have two bum bases and asked for info on how to take it apart since I am not shipping them back.
no answer for a week now. . glad you figured it out . that saves me taking a dremel to one if I ruined it
hypnotizing your pictures now ....so how did you support it and punched where to do it ?
more details are appreciated ...thanks for the good work !!!
 

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