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Thinking of trying a mech mod

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
So I pre-ordered the Pulse 80w, but I got that itch that needs to be scratched. I'm sure you've all been there.

So I was thinking about ordering a cheap mech squonker, and I can get the original Pulse BF for $25. But I've never used a mech mod before so can use some advice on building my coils.

I'd be using an LG HG2 18650 battery, which Mooch rates at 18A. I am assuming if I build in the .3-.5 ohm range I should be safe, right?

What I'm trying to avoid is drawing too much power from the battery, correct?

Couple other questions off the top of my head:

What happens if I build higher, say .6 ohms? Is it safe in terms of blowing myself up, but just produces a cooler vape? What happens when the battery gets low?

I'll do some more research, but thought I'd ask here to start. Thanks in advance!
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I first tried Squonk via a Hugo kit.. OK, I can tolerate a lot - even liked squonking.. Absolutely loathed 3.7v .. DONE

I ordered a Gbox 200 squonker and a few atty: wasp nano, pulse24 - an SXK "Haku Phenom" is incoming.. I loathe and despise one cell mechs.. HATE THEM.. weak, wimpy, FOAD.

As far as a Squonker, yes: get a Gbox 200.. Detach the default bottle; trade neomags for the torx bottle-cover; use a silicone bottle. However, I find the VW and "VPC" modes more useful than TC... I test them, mind yoiu, but - sorry.. TC still doesn't thrill me.

Now, a Noisy Cricket was a huge boon.. Good mech, but ftw- you need like 1.4Ω setup.. I went to single coil on it, but it WORKED.

Don't even ask me how godawful umpty single-cell tube-mods were.. Really... FOAD, goodamnit. ESAL.. Never, ever again.
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
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Ohms law would be the first thing to research. It's the main staple of the mech world. Definitely not a plug and play kinda thing. You need to get on to the site for steam engine.org I think it is. Has coil wizard and ohms calculator. With that being said in sure someone else will chime in. And I don't have the pulse bf mod but I've heard people mention the voltage drop in the pulse mod. Which just keeps from getting the vape that you want. As far as ohm calculator I use an app called Vape Tool. It's free on Google play and Apple store. There's a paid version also. For right now the free version will do you just fine. Hopefully that gives you a starting point for things to build and research.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

JuicyLucy

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And I don't have the pulse bf mod but I've heard people mention the voltage drop in the pulse mod. Which just keeps from getting the vape that you want.

Very correct - not a well built mod at all

o I was thinking about ordering a cheap mech squonker, and I can get the original Pulse BF for $25.

See what @Wtmke1 said
 

r055co

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Thinking of diving into Mech's here's my lecture for those about to take the leap. This is good to stick with while you gain experience with them.


1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android

2. Batteries, fucking batteries, take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!

a. Avoid shit batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not eBay or Amazon) sources, great places that I get authentics from are -

http://liionwholesale.com/

https://www.imrbatteries.com/

b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"

c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and battery ratings, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog and only use his recommend batteries.

d. In Mod's with multiple batteries, marry them.

e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks,tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.

3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, example with 20a CDR batteries -

a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up

b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery then add 1/2 the CDR of the next battery

c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amps . So a series you build high with a lot of wire mass no lower that .4 ohms.

4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I will vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build like shorts.

5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button and you put it in your pocket (which I really don't recommend) insure nothing else is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front pocket and blow your dick off ya know ;)

6. Last but certainly NOT the least, keep it clean! Clean it when you first get it "before" you even use it and clean it on a regular basis.

a. Ultrasonics are a very good investment, got mine off Amazon for around $25.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
/SIGH

Well. single cell mechs mean "build low" - except now you need to balance "cell documentation" and "I know better" and "mod has issues".

Mechs are.... a PITD.. Now, the 2S "Noisy cricket" makes you learn better than the BS 1S mode of Mech. Yes. Everyone should walk the path - and scream - but I would hope that doesn't mean "blow their face off".. yet, Darwin must be served: I have no issue with idjits dyin'.

You simply can't play with mechs w/o Ohms Law, but damn - 1 cell is just not cool no how. I'd rather build a PUCK and stuff in Duracells.
 
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PoppaVic

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Member For 4 Years
Nah... I am all for folks "blowing their dick off" - it's only socialists that make us suffer for that.

(There are times I miss the Victorians - gas lamp went out? you ignored it? Die)
 

r055co

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Nah... I am all for folks "blowing their dick off" - it's only socialists that make us suffer for that.

(There are times I miss the Victorians - gas lamp went out? you ignored it? Die)
You have anything to offer or are you just Trolling?

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
Thanks for the replies. I think I have a pretty decent understanding of Ohm's Law. If I build to ~.37 ohms (parallel 28awg SS316, 3mm ID, 6.5 wraps), I'd be in a safe operating range of a single LG HG2 18650:

upload_2018-3-10_1-48-8.png

So I get it—stay in range of what the battery can handle and my dick shouldn't get blown off. What I haven't found yet is what happens to the battery as it drains? Do the ratings change? I mean, are those numbers the ratings at a full charge, but when half the charge is gone, what happens to those ratings? Or do they stay constant until the battery is fully discharged?

ETA: I guess what I'm asking is: does the battery output less amps as it drains? Will that 10 amps my target build is drawing be safe until the battery is fully discharged?
 
Last edited:

r055co

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Thanks for the replies. I think I have a pretty decent understanding of Ohm's Law. If I build to ~.37 ohms (parallel 28awg SS316, 3mm ID, 6.5 wraps), I'd be in a safe operating range of a single LG HG2 18650:

View attachment 106129

So I get it—stay in range of what the battery can handle and my dick shouldn't get blown off. What I haven't found yet is what happens to the battery as it drains? Do the ratings change? I mean, are those numbers the ratings at a full charge, but when half the charge is gone, what happens to those ratings? Or do they stay constant until the battery is fully discharged?

ETA: I guess what I'm asking is: does the battery output less amps as it drains? Will that 10 amps my target build is drawing be safe until the battery is fully discharged?
Power diminishes just stay above 3.5v or 3.4v before you recharge and you'll be fine. I usually change @ 3.6v

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
Power diminishes just stay above 3.5v or 3.4v before you recharge and you'll be fine. I usually change @ 3.6v

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
That's exactly what I was looking for. One last stupid question...how do I know when I hit that point? Is it just by feel and with experience, like you can tell by the temp of the vape and/or vape production?
 

r055co

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That's exactly what I was looking for. One last stupid question...how do I know when I hit that point? Is it just by feel and with experience, like you can tell by the temp of the vape and/or vape production?
Just by feel and experience, careful with really low resistance Mod's and hot builds for you may vape them too low.

You'll get the feel for it
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
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Vape production deminishes as the battery dies

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
Perfect. You guys really helped and made me feel better about using a mech mod. I'll make sure to have my multi-meter with me as I start out.

It's funny that mech mods always seemed so scary to me, which stopped me from even looking into them. Now that I have, it's actually pretty simple to understand. I feel confident that my dick will stay right where it is.

I know it doesn't apply to the Pulse mod, but any of you guys ever use kicks for your mech mods? I never even knew that was a thing.
 

The Cromwell

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So I pre-ordered the Pulse 80w, but I got that itch that needs to be scratched. I'm sure you've all been there.

So I was thinking about ordering a cheap mech squonker, and I can get the original Pulse BF for $25. But I've never used a mech mod before so can use some advice on building my coils.

I'd be using an LG HG2 18650 battery, which Mooch rates at 18A. I am assuming if I build in the .3-.5 ohm range I should be safe, right?

What I'm trying to avoid is drawing too much power from the battery, correct?

Couple other questions off the top of my head:

What happens if I build higher, say .6 ohms? Is it safe in terms of blowing myself up, but just produces a cooler vape? What happens when the battery gets low?

I'll do some more research, but thought I'd ask here to start. Thanks in advance!
A great semi mech starter squonker is the Pico squeeze.
has protections against short and such and no cleaning of contacts required as it is actually a switchfet.
You have a safer and less hassle way to learn to build for mechs on the Squeeze,
And for <$17 at FT a heck of a deal.

I started with mech squonkers and moved to the Squeeze.
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
A great semi mech starter squonker is the Pico squeeze.
has protections against short and such and no cleaning of contacts required as it is actually a switchfet.
You have a safer and less hassle way to learn to build for mechs on the Squeeze,
And for <$17 at FT a heck of a deal.

I started with mech squonkers and moved to the Squeeze.
I thought about the Squeeze. I'm a Pico fan...my daily setup is a Pico 25 with an Ammit RTA. One of the main reasons I went with the Pulse BF is I wanted to get a feel for the quality of VandyVape products and the form factor. I know the Pulse 80W is a bit larger, but it's similar. I figured if I don't like the Pulse BF, I can move to something else like the Inbox or RSQ without the wait.
 

The Cromwell

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I thought about the Squeeze. I'm a Pico fan...my daily setup is a Pico 25 with an Ammit RTA. One of the main reasons I went with the Pulse BF is I wanted to get a feel for the quality of VandyVape products and the form factor. I know the Pulse 80W is a bit larger, but it's similar. I figured if I don't like the Pulse BF, I can move to something else like the Inbox or RSQ without the wait.
Ahh but the Squeeze outperforms the Pulse BF in voltage drop.

I have both and did tests.
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
Ahh but the Squeeze outperforms the Pulse BF in voltage drop.

I have both and did tests.
Curious...I watched Daniel's review (DJLsb) on the Pulse BF and he suggested pinching the kill switch with pliers to ake it tighter to reduc ethe voltage drop. Did you do that? His testing showed better than average voltage drop:

 

The Cromwell

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Curious...I watched Daniel's review (DJLsb) on the Pulse BF and he suggested pinching the kill switch with pliers to ake it tighter to reduc ethe voltage drop. Did you do that? His testing showed better than average voltage drop:

Yep did that. And the Squeeze still blew it's doors in.
Quite a noticeable voltage drop in the pivot point for that disconnect switch as well.
And cannot clean the main switch.

The more non solidly bonded connections a mech has the more voltage drop.
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
This whole thread is why I vape at .11 ohms on a single VTC5A.
Testing my new found understanding of batteries/ohm's law...

At .11 ohms you'd be drawing around ~33A, which is the upper limit of the VTC5A (35A). So safe, but close to max. How'd I do?
 

The Cromwell

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So that's wouldn't be considered a safe setup, right? Not criticizing, just trying to understand.

Nothing about vaping is totally safe esp regarding batteries.
Per mooch.
But going over the maximum CDR rating of a cell does increase the risk of a venting event.
However with that setup the VTC5A is prolly the best choice as it is an excellent battery for mechs.
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
Nothing about vaping is totally safe esp regarding batteries.
Per mooch.
But going over the maximum CDR rating of a cell does increase the risk of a venting event.
However with that setup the VTC5A is prolly the best choice as it is an excellent battery for mechs.
Got it. Disclaimers aside, I'm just trying to understand if my math and understanding is correct?
 

Carambrda

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Member For 5 Years
Testing my new found understanding of batteries/ohm's law...

At .11 ohms you'd be drawing around ~33A, which is the upper limit of the VTC5A (35A). So safe, but close to max. How'd I do?
35A is just a pulse rating. Pulse ratings are useless because they're not telling us how they pulsed it or how they tested it, but nevertheless we don't discharge the battery continuously so basically we can vape considerably above the CDR if we know what we're doing and we're fully aware that there's an addtional risk as well as we're fully accepting that additional risk. To those who are new to using a mech, we recommend staying at or below the CDR just because of all that, and that's good. But this doesn't mean those who are new to using a mech are necessarily always going to forever stay new to using a mech (only some of them are).

That said, if you make absolutely sure that the button isn't going to get pressed for a long period of time with the battery still in it, and you're taking short hits (but really powerful ones because your ohms are so low that you don't actually need to take long hits anyway in the first place) as well as you're letting the battery cool down for like 5 whole minutes between hits, then you can actually even vape at .04 ohms on just a single VTC5A if that's what you want. I don't recommend it to anyone because it's not without risk, but it's definitely possible, and it's definitely not irresponsibly dangerous nor to the point of being a jackass (again, if you know what you're doing, and etc.). Further, I should add that the lower you build, the less efficient the battery becomes, the more extra wear and tear you're inflicting on it, and the bigger the voltage sag becomes... so there exists such a thing as growing diminishing returns. The point I'm trying to make is, even though we HAVE to say things like stay at or below the CDR because we don't know how you're going to vape it and we don't know things like how fast are you capable to stop your mech from firing after the button on it gets stuck, it doesn't stop at the CDR, and, for me, personally, staying at or below the CDR doesn't give me a satisfying vape experience in any way at all. With a dual coil aliens build at .11 ohms (27g Ni80 / 36g Ni80, 4½ wraps, 2½mm ID), it does give me a statisfying vape experience, and does so a lot more than people like @PoppaVic will probably ever know.
 

Bundy71

Member For 2 Years
35A is just a pulse rating. Pulse ratings are useless because they're not telling us how they pulsed it or how they tested it, but nevertheless we don't discharge the battery continuously so basically we can vape considerably above the CDR if we know what we're doing and we're fully aware that there's an addtional risk as well as we're fully accepting that additional risk. To those who are new to using a mech, we recommend staying at or below the CDR just because of all that, and that's good. But this doesn't mean those who are new to using a mech are necessarily always going to forever stay new to using a mech (only some of them are).

That said, if you make absolutely sure that the button isn't going to get pressed for a long period of time with the battery still in it, and you're taking short hits (but really powerful ones because your ohms are so low that you don't actually need to take long hits anyway in the first place) as well as you're letting the battery cool down for like 5 whole minutes between hits, then you can actually even vape at .04 ohms on just a single VTC5A if that's what you want. I don't recommend it to anyone because it's not without risk, but it's definitely possible, and it's definitely not irresponsibly dangerous nor to the point of being a jackass (again, if you know what you're doing, and etc.). Further, I should add that the lower you build, the less efficient the battery becomes, the more extra wear and tear you're inflicting on it, and the bigger the voltage sag becomes... so there exists such a thing as growing diminishing returns. The point I'm trying to make is, even though we HAVE to say things like stay at or below the CDR because we don't know how you're going to vape it and we don't know things like how fast are you capable to stop your mech from firing after the button on it gets stuck, it doesn't stop at the CDR, and, for me, personally, staying at or below the CDR doesn't give me a satisfying vape experience in any way at all. With a dual coil aliens build at .11 ohms (27g Ni80 / 36g Ni80, 4½ wraps, 2½mm ID), it does give me a statisfying vape experience, and does so a lot more than people like @PoppaVic will probably ever know.
That all makes sense. Thanks for the info!
 

The Cromwell

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That said, if you make absolutely sure that the button isn't going to get pressed for a long period of time with the battery still in it

Yep that is the real danger.
Or having a shorted atty and keep trying to get it to fire...

If your atty does not work do NOT just keep trying it.
Figure out what is wrong.

'I don't know, it would not fire and I was trying to get it to fire and suddenly it blew up.'
A common song of those who have tube mechs blow up in their face.

box mods with doors are much less likely to blow up they just tend to spew fire and such when they vent violently. Not a good thing in the pocket though.
 

Carambrda

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Yep that is the real danger.
Or having a shorted atty and keep trying to get it to fire...

If your atty does not work do NOT just keep trying it.
Figure out what is wrong.

'I don't know, it would not fire and I was trying to get it to fire and suddenly it blew up.'
A common song of those who have tube mechs blow up in their face.

box mods with doors are much less likely to blow up they just tend to spew fire and such when they vent violently. Not a good thing in the pocket though.
Of course, but those who can't figure out how to avoid a shorted atty on a mech probably also can't figure out how to avoid putting a naked battery in their pocket along with loose change and a set of keys, let alone figure out why a damaged battery wrap and or damaged top insulator ring on a battery needs to be immediately replaced... so turning those people onto regulated mods by scaring them away from mechs is only going to delay the fireworks for just a little while, and, telling each and every new mech user to stay at or below the CDR for the rest of his/her mech-using life won't fix that problem, either. If people can't figure out even the very basics about battery safety, they shouldn't be vaping on these batteries with ANY mod, mech or regulated.
 

The Cromwell

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Of course, but those who can't figure out how to avoid a shorted atty on a mech probably also can't figure out how to avoid putting a naked battery in their pocket along with loose change and a set of keys, let alone figure out why a damaged battery wrap and or damaged top insulator ring on a battery needs to be immediately replaced... so turning those people onto regulated mods by scaring them away from mechs is only going to delay the fireworks for just a little while, and, telling each and every new mech user to stay at or below the CDR for the rest of his/her mech-using life won't fix that problem, either. If people can't figure out even the very basics about battery safety, they shouldn't be vaping on these batteries with ANY mod, mech or regulated.
Yep if you cannot learn battery safety only use built in internal battery mods.
Even with a regulated mod a bad wrap can cause a violent venting episode.
 

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