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Thoughts on the Noisy Cricket

noejuice

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Well, go ahead if you will.
 

PaulS

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Jay-bo noisy cricket is a great little mod for the price. But beware - it is a series mod. That means you need to build .5 or greater to be safe ... lower ohm builds will push through way to many amps and watts. I picked mine up as a package with the indestructible. I built to .6 (dual claptons). It is a nice small mod and it vapes great without issues. RDAs fit fine.
 

BoomStick

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I wish it was stainless instead of aluminum, but it still looks pretty slick. Looks like my SMPL's big brother. I want one. Looking forward to vu member reviews.
 

Robert B

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I've been using one for almost 3 weeks now. It's my favorite mod. Aluminum conducts better than stainless, and this mod doesn't disappoint. First tried a .5 build. Way too hot for me. I've settled in on a .9, 26g dual coil build. Great battery life, hits as hard as I need, and flavor is outstanding with that many wraps on a Tobh with a jaybo cloud cap. A bambino with a .85 build is nice and flavorful as well.

According to steam engine. A series mod, fully charged batts, with a .9 build is pulling about 9amps @ 78 watts. in contrast, a .5 build is pulling approx 17amps at 141watts.

For the price, this mod is hard to beat. I friggin love it.

NC_tohb.jpg
NC_bambino.jpg
 

VaporCarp

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I've been using one for almost 3 weeks now. It's my favorite mod. Aluminum conducts better than stainless, and this mod doesn't disappoint. First tried a .5 build. Way too hot for me. I've settled in on a .9, 26g dual coil build. Great battery life, hits as hard as I need, and flavor is outstanding with that many wraps on a Tobh with a jaybo cloud cap. A bambino with a .85 build is nice and flavorful as well.

According to steam engine. A series mod, fully charged batts, with a .9 build is pulling about 9amps @ 78 watts. in contrast, a .5 build is pulling approx 17amps at 141watts.

For the price, this mod is hard to beat. I friggin love it.

View attachment 33802
View attachment 33803
Good to hear. Can't wait till mine arrives .... if it ever ships :(
 

Robert B

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Good to hear. Can't wait till mine arrives .... if it ever ships :(

Hang in there, it's definitely worth the wait. I jumped on the cyberliquids pre-order minutes after they posted it. Just make sure you have an atty with a protruding contact pin since this hybrid style mod.

Atty goes over the positive battery, firing switch goes over the negative

NC_batts.jpg
 

VaporCarp

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Hang in there, it's definitely worth the wait. I jumped on the cyberliquids pre-order minutes after they posted it. Just make sure you have an atty with a protruding contact pin since this hybrid style mod.

Atty goes over the positive battery, firing switch goes over the negative

View attachment 33804
My order has been processing for 6 days! UGH!
I have the Jaybo RDA coming with it and also have a Twisted Messes and Velocity that'll work well!
 

scarecrowjenkins

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Had mine for about 24 hours now. I've been having too much fun to post about it haha. I LOVE this thing!

Thoughts on the mod:
i have a weird thing about stickers, and it came covered in them. It took me a solid 20 minutes to scrape them all off and get the mod cleaned up. Once that was all settled, i found the mod to be delightfully attractive. Hardly weighs as much as a stainless steel atomizer, and is just a joy to hold. I feel like the top of the button may eventually wear out, it's already starting to take a little damage from the various objects i've used to unscrew it. The threads are also a bit scrapey and harsh. One thing i've also noticed is that the threads collect buildup REALLY fast. I don't know if its the material, or the voltage running through them, but two battery cycles and they were BLACK. I wipe em out every time i change batteries and they're always dirty. With that being said-performance wise the mod is just awesome. It hits like a bat outta hell. Meatloaf would be proud.

Thoughts on usage:
It's been a fun challenge for me to build for 8V, since i'm usually building for a parallel box. Finally settled on a pair of .35 dual claptons. They've provided a hellacious vape for the last few hours. I tried a few builds just using plain round wire and wasn't all that happy. Since those types of coils don't absorb any juice i found that i get a big immediate "sizzle" upon firing, followed my a small amount of vapor. I assume that there's no way for the wick to keep up with the demand, since a tremendous amount of wattage is going through the coils. So i switched to fused claptons since the coils themselves hold a fair amount of juice. For me they have been fantastic. I can take longer hits and get an absurd amount of vapor from them.
I will say this though: i have never gotten better flavor or vapor off of a straight kanthal or nichrome coil than i do off of this thing. The flavor is not nearly as muted as it normally is on a plain coil. I don't fully understand how that works, but it seems everything performs really well on this series mod. For me between a .3-.5 has been great. I vaped all the way to a .75 and although it was a cool vape, it was still flavorful and still a ton of vapor. You don't feel like you're getting a hit at all, and then you exhale a surprising amount of vapor. Super weird, but super fun.

Overall this thing is just plain awesome. Obviously being a hybrid, fully mechanical mod there is a bit of education involved in using it. You need a hybrid-friendly atomizer and pay careful attention to battery placement, since there is nothing to protect you from a short. It also may be wise to check your builds in an ohms law calculator to make sure you aren't exceeding your batteries' amp limitations. But none of that is too crazy, and it's a really fun mod-especially if you are looking to explore a bit with your style of vaping. I never thought i'd find an enjoyable vape above a .2 ever again. It's WELL worth the money in my opinion. Blah blah blah buy one! Cheers!
 

robot zombie

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I bought one as my first series mod.

I got it in black, and I gotta admit, the black finish is positively mint. It's not painted, but it doesn't quite look anodized. It has a fine and smooth, yet grainy texture to it, which gives it a matte, powder-coated look. On the top, it's clearly electroplated, so I think it's just the texture giving off the illusion of it being painted. I think that's a smart idea. Seems like a fairly thick layer of electroplating, too. I put a maybe a .7mm deep scratch in it when I bumped it against the edge of a conveyor at work and even the scratch is black. Looks nice, feels nice, seems like it can take a lot of abuse. It also isn't a juice or fingerprint magnet. It's easy to clean.

Aside from the superb finish, the build quality on it is so-so. It isn't terrible, but the threading is pretty rough. The machining on the top and bottom edges could have used some beveling - they feel a bit sharp. I'm pretty sure that when they make these things, they take really long sections of hollowed out aluminum and cut the individual bodies from it like a Hershey's bar. The circular, cutting machine patterning on the tops and bottoms tells the whole story. All they have to do after that is carve out the threading and the little dip for the bottom piece and its done. It's a cheap way to do it, but this is a cheap mod.

On the positive cap, there's just a ring of silicone or something like it serving as an insulator... ...it started falling apart and peeling away on the first day. I mean, it has a raised ring going around the edge, sort like the SMPL, so the battery won't short on it so long as the wrap is intact, but still, this baffles me, as the button has a wide ring of peek for an insulator. They could have easily done this for the positive cap too and made it that much safer. I would have paid more for slightly better build quality than this.

The fit for the batteries is great. The seesaw connection setup on the bottom allows for everything to come down snug when you screw-in the button/positive cap, no matter how long/short your atty's 510 is. The batteries always remain stationary inside of it and everything makes a perfect connection.

It's very well-designed - making a hybrid series mod was a brilliant idea. It's just not all that well made in some aspects. That being said, I do expect it to last me for a very long time.

Other than those little gripes, it's a kickass little mech mod. It's so tiny and it feels solid. You know when you hold a mod and it just feels like quality? Can't beat paying $35 for such a pocket-friendly, absurdly-powerful mod. It's very easy to use and the button is excellent (the top is delrin, but rest assured, it's a VERY smooth throw.)

I've barely touched my pipe bomb or Sigelei 150w. It's that great. This thing hits really hard, but as others have mentioned, it makes for a very smooth vape with the right coils. Because it runs in series, you can do some super-mean, high-powered builds that are much kinder to your batteries... ...kind enough that you don't always need to carry spares, so it frees up pocket space in two ways.

If you're a mech user and you're curious about series mods, I'd highly recommend picking one of these up. You may just fall in love with the damned thing. I'm going to buy the plain version very soon. I would gladly buy another one instead of a wired mosfet series box.
 
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Robert B

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The threads smooth out after a few changes of batteries, and the black stuff on the threads I believe is just the combination of aluminum and brass. The hybrid cap on mine didn't come with a plastic ring. Hybrid cap is machined just like the inside of an smpl. Jaybo recommends screwing on the atty first, then the fire switch for proper adjustment just like you would with an smpl.

Jaybo also says the new version of the smpl fire button will fit this, but they sell for twice as much as this mod. Cvapor and Sourcemore has these for 20 bucks. I've ordered two more for spare parts. My first one came from cyberliquids for 42 bucks, but still worth every cent.

Nice reviews @scarecrowjenkins and @robot zombie

NC.jpg
 
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noejuice

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Until the real thing comes along, it looks like certain silicone sleeves for the istick 20/30 and the kbox mini could be scissor snipped and used on the Noisy Cricket. I ordered a NC, and a simple silicone sleeve really appeals to me for this device.

Excellent reports from the members, wow, thanks, great job!
 

robot zombie

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Jaybo also says the new version of the smpl fire button will fit this, but they sell for twice as much as this mod.
Hmm, I wonder if there are any SMPL clones out there with the same size button. I have the A-MOD clone, but the button on that one's just a little too small.

Cvapor and Sourcemore has these for 20 bucks.
Thanks for the tip. I went with Sourcemore. I don't trust Cvapor.

I'm thinking about doing an ink patina on it when it gets here. Should be pretty sweet.
 

Robert B

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Hmm, I wonder if there are any SMPL clones out there with the same size button. I have the A-MOD clone, but the button on that one's just a little too small.


Thanks for the tip. I went with Sourcemore. I don't trust Cvapor.

I'm thinking about doing an ink patina on it when it gets here. Should be pretty sweet.

I've had good luck with Cvapor, but never bought anything through Sourcemore. I ordered a black cricket through them. Both use paypal, so you're pretty well protected.

Ink patina? sounds cool. You'll have to post some picts if and when you do it. Thinking about doing a Cerakote Mil Spec OD green on the mod and indestructable atty. Jaybo did a black job on an atty. Looks pretty cool. Would look good on your black mod

cerakote mil-spec OD Green.jpg
cerakote atty.jpg
 

Robert B

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Hmm, I wonder if there are any SMPL clones out there with the same size button. I have the A-MOD clone, but the button on that one's just a little too small.

No, the threads are way different. Jaybo did that for a reason. He says the smpl buttons cannot handle the power. Except for the new (authentic) v2 smpl+ button. Made the same as the NC button.

eds smpl button.jpg
 
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VaporCarp

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The threads smooth out after a few changes of batteries, and the black stuff on the threads I believe is just the combination of aluminum and brass. The hybrid cap on mine didn't come with a plastic ring. Hybrid cap is machined just like the inside of an smpl. Jaybo recommends screwing on the atty first, then the fire switch for proper adjustment just like you would with an smpl.

Jaybo also says the new version of the smpl fire button will fit this, but they sell for twice as much as this mod. Cvapor and Sourcemore has these for 20 bucks. I've ordered two more for spare parts. My first one came from cyberliquids for 42 bucks, but still worth every cent.

Nice reviews @scarecrowjenkins and @robot zombie

View attachment 33980
Get the new button yet?


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robot zombie

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I'm thinking about picking up a SMPL+ anyway. I'll give it a try if I do...

...right after I ink patina the glistening, naked gaybo. I wanna try some stencil work. I'm playing around with a few designs before I have them cut. I wanna make sure that I do it right and create something truly unique.

I'm a little confused as to why the old-style SMPL buttons can't handle the Jaybo. I'm thinking he's worried that the extra voltage push is more likely to cause arching and the dreaded hot-button-syndrome. I could see that being the case, since the new SMPL buttons appear to have an insulated mechanism, what with the non-conductive button assembly and all.
 

Robert B

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I'm thinking about picking up a SMPL+ anyway. I'll give it a try if I do...

...right after I ink patina the glistening, naked gaybo. I wanna try some stencil work. I'm playing around with a few designs before I have them cut. I wanna make sure that I do it right and create something truly unique.

I'm a little confused as to why the old-style SMPL buttons can't handle the Jaybo. I'm thinking he's worried that the extra voltage push is more likely to cause arching and the dreaded hot-button-syndrome. I could see that being the case, since the new SMPL buttons appear to have an insulated mechanism, what with the non-conductive button assembly and all.

The SMPL+ button will work with the Cricket, the old SMPL button won't. The Cricket button is an SMPL+ button, or at least designed by Epic Design Studios. The new buttons have finer threads and a larger contact area. And you are exactly right. Jaybo said he didn't use the old style button for that exact reason (arching & hot button). The new style button has much more contact area, and the cap is made of Radel which screws directly into the contact piece. Also the new button has a delrin insulator around the edge.

cricket buttons.jpg
 
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f1r3b1rd

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Nice been running 0.46ohm build with 26/32 claptons. Gonna rebuild it and see if I can't get the resistance up a bit to lower the heat
 

ej1024

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you can't be stupid on this MOD
that thing scares me


VAPE ON
 

f1r3b1rd

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No you can't. It's definitely for the experienced hobbyist; with a fully functioning neural cortex
 

Robert B

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you can't be stupid on this MOD
that thing scares me

I don't find it any more stupid or scary than a parallel mod. Everyone is so brainwashed about low ohm builds which is fine @ 4.2 volts dual para batteries. But when you are pushing 8.4 volts, you just have to build higher ohm coils. Very Simple I'm currently using a .8 dual coil build which is only 10.5amps @ 88watts on fully charged batts. Only half of the samsung 25r's continuous discharge rating. Can't get much safer than that.
 

Robert B

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7364ea9bd9f535a7b9c5172e6a92914c.jpg
O.76 ohm build... Best vape I've ever gotten on a mechanical mod. Even better than the lower ohm Clapton build I had in it.
24g, 3mm diameter

Looks great. I need to install the Ninja post on my Indestructable too
 

f1r3b1rd

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Looks great. I need to install the Ninja post on my Indestructable too
Ninja post? People were bitching about the two different screw tops, doesn't bother me any because its so easy to put damn near anything in there.
 

Robert B

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Ninja post? People were bitching about the two different screw tops, doesn't bother me any because its so easy to put damn near anything in there.
That center post you have on there is called the "ninja post", as opposed to the single hole center post I have on mine now. I need to change mine out
 

f1r3b1rd

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That center post you have on there is called the "ninja post", as opposed to the single hole center post I have on mine now. I need to change mine out
Oh, I didn't realize it had a cool name. Dude, it made putting the claptons I had in there or the parallel build I was using on the hexohm ridiculously easy.
I need to order another indestructible for my hex, but I would rather the jaybo one over the wismec one.
 

Sean.King

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Love mine, had it over a week now. With a .34 clapton build on my RH its awesome. I just have two complaints. The firing button can be tough to tighten all the way down, I think some kind of knurling on it or ridges on the side of it would have really helped, I can see the slot for using a coin becoming all mangled up because its plastic. Also, my rewrapped batteries are a really snug fit. That worries me because if the one below the atty vented for whatever reason it wouldn't have anywhere to vent the gasses and would just explode. But overall, for the price, I couldn't be happier.
 

vapedick

Member For 4 Years
Love mine, had it over a week now. With a .34 clapton build on my RH its awesome. I just have two complaints. The firing button can be tough to tighten all the way down, I think some kind of knurling on it or ridges on the side of it would have really helped, I can see the slot for using a coin becoming all mangled up because its plastic. Also, my rewrapped batteries are a really snug fit. That worries me because if the one below the atty vented for whatever reason it wouldn't have anywhere to vent the gasses and would just explode. But overall, for the price, I couldn't be happier.
Wouldn't it just vent out of the.....ummm....vent holes on the bottom of the mod?


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Robert B

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Love mine, had it over a week now. With a .34 clapton build on my RH its awesome. I just have two complaints. The firing button can be tough to tighten all the way down, I think some kind of knurling on it or ridges on the side of it would have really helped, I can see the slot for using a coin becoming all mangled up because its plastic. Also, my rewrapped batteries are a really snug fit. That worries me because if the one below the atty vented for whatever reason it wouldn't have anywhere to vent the gasses and would just explode. But overall, for the price, I couldn't be happier.

Clean the threads up with some non abrasive metal cleaner, and use a micro-fiber cloth. The threads will smooth out and you won't have to crank it down with a penny. The fire button doesn't have to be super tight, just snug. Just know that you're pushing close to 24amps and 200 watts @ .35ohms. And maybe get some batts that fit better. My 25r's fit perfect.
 

VaporCarp

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Get to play with mine after work!


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VaporCarp

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Clean the threads up with some non abrasive metal cleaner, and use a micro-fiber cloth. The threads will smooth out and you won't have to crank it down with a penny. The fire button doesn't have to be super tight, just snug. Just know that you're pushing close to 24amps and 200 watts @ .35ohms. And maybe get some batts that fit better. My 25r's fit perfect.
Is there a brand of cleaner you recommend?


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Robert B

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Is there a brand of cleaner you recommend?

I use these. Works really well for all metals, they don't smell like chemicals, and one cloth goes a long way. I buy them in the metal can which comes with a microfiber cloth, but you can buy them in smaller numbers in a pouch. Ace hardware, Amazon, Walmart, and many other places have them.
 

VaporCarp

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I use these. Works really well for all metals, they don't smell like chemicals, and one cloth goes a long way. I buy them in the metal can which comes with a microfiber cloth, but you can buy them in smaller numbers in a pouch. Ace hardware, Amazon, Walmart, and many other places have them.
Thanks, Robert!


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joeyboy

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How much battery life do you get out of this thing? I get two days out of my 150 sig and it is all I use, normally.
 

Robert B

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How much battery life do you get out of this thing? I get two days out of my 150 sig and it is all I use, normally.
Like anything, depends how much you vape, what ohms your atty is at, and what batteries you have. Pretty subjective.
Keeping in mind the NC is a series device....I use 25r's, .8ohms, 10 to 15ml of juice (a day), and change the batteries twice each day. I let my batteries go down to about 3.6 to 3.8volts before changing them out. Try jacking your Sig up to about 90 watts and blow through 15ml of juice and see how long your batteries last.
 

noejuice

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Robert B, thank you so much for your contributions to this thread!

I received a black NC yesterday from cvapor. 18 days e-packet from China. It seems authentic, and the quality of manufacture has well exceeded my expectations.

I unscrewed (extended) the copper center pin on my RDA and heatsink a little bit for use in this hybrid mod, and now I'm vaping away. I ordered six new Samsung 25rs from liionwholesale ($31 shipped) especially for this device.

Some people think unregulated series box vaping is the shit, and I'm one of those people. I will report back if the device flounders.
 

Robert B

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Robert B, thank you so much for your contributions to this thread!

I received a black NC yesterday from cvapor. 18 days e-packet from China. It seems authentic, and the quality of manufacture has well exceeded my expectations.

I unscrewed (extended) the copper center pin on my RDA and heatsink a little bit for use in this hybrid mod, and now I'm vaping away. I ordered six new Samsung 25rs from liionwholesale ($31 shipped) especially for this device.

Some people think unregulated series box vaping is the shit, and I'm one of those people. I will report back if the device flounders.

You're very welcome, and yes, the NC from Cvapor and Sourcemore are authentic.

Check and see if unscrewing your copper contact pin is loosening your center post. You don't want to do that. Most (not all) attys, it's the contact pin that holds the center post on the deck in place. Rule of thumb is to have everything screwed together nice and snug to make optimum contact. If you screw in the copper contact pin all the way, and it doesn't protrude, get a different atty. It doesn't have to stick out a huge distance.

contact pin.jpg

This one works just fine too.

mephisto contact pin.jpg
 
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robot zombie

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It's been my experience that as long as its not a floating pin, even a slight protrusion is enough to avoid a short. The batteries are stationary in this mod, so it should always make the same connection and stay that way. A mm or two is really enough. As long as it's completely level, it will not make contact with the negative. I think it's probably safer to have the pin fully in and secure, even if it seems too short, than to back it out and have it shift when you're screwing it in and short on you.

Anybody notice that the black and silver have slightly different attributes to them? I'm noticing that the positioning of the holes on the top cap are different for the silver one. It also has logos on the top cap, while the black one did not. The threading even seems a bit better on the silver one. Also, the silver didn't have those annoying-ass stickers.

Other than that, they seem identical. They perform the same. The button is completely identical. I stripped them down to make sure. Still, it almost makes me wonder if there are clones out there already. I think it's more likely that they made tweaks to the batches done after the pre-order run, though.

I'm feeling kind of lazy, been messing with vape shit all day. But if anybody's interested in the differences, I can take a few pictures.
 

Robert B

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Anybody notice that the black and silver have slightly different attributes to them? I'm noticing that the positioning of the holes on the top cap are different for the silver one. It also has logos on the top cap, while the black one did not. The threading even seems a bit better on the silver one. Also, the silver didn't have those annoying-ass stickers.

Other than that, they seem identical. They perform the same. The button is completely identical. I stripped them down to make sure. Still, it almost makes me wonder if there are clones out there already. I think it's more likely that they made tweaks to the batches done after the pre-order run, though.

I'm feeling kind of lazy, been messing with vape shit all day. But if anybody's interested in the differences, I can take a few pictures.

Funny, I got one of the silver units from the first batch that arrived at cyberliquids, with stickers on it, no logo on the top cap. The other two, one black and one silver were identical, with no stickers, and they do have logo's on the hybrid cap. I think you're right about tweeks to the post-pre-order batch.

Same thing with the Reuleaux dna200. First batch had a sloppy fitting battery door and a small gap below usb port on the cover. Mine has neither.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Funny, I got one of the silver units from the first batch that arrived at cyberliquids, with stickers on it, no logo on the top cap. The other two, one black and one silver were identical, with no stickers, and they do have logo's on the hybrid cap. I think you're right about tweeks to the post-pre-order batch.

Same thing with the Reuleaux dna200. First batch had a sloppy fitting battery door and a small gap below usb port on the cover. Mine has neither.
my black one from cubereliquids was the same, I reckon that's the same batch
 

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