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Thoughts on the Noisy Cricket

CrazyChef

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Hey coil pros, would a twisted 28g 316L build work well with the NC??? I
Yes. But the MINIMUM specs that I would recommend for a dual coil build with 20 amp batteries is a 2 wire twist, 9/10 wraps, 3.0mm inside diameter. You should end up around 0.43Ω, and be pushing the limit at just a hair over 20 amps.
 

R3alJim Shady

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Yes. But the MINIMUM specs that I would recommend for a dual coil build with 20 amp batteries is a 2 wire twist, 9/10 wraps, 3.0mm inside diameter. You should end up around 0.43Ω, and be pushing the limit at just a hair over 20 amps.
My plan is to run it in single coil!
 

joeyboy

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I am thinking a single coil 10 wrap 24g kanthal with 3.0 id. Or would the 24/34 Clapton kanthal I have be a better choice?
 

CrazyChef

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Right now I'm running dual 2x30SS316L/40N80 fused Claptons on mine in a Petri V2. I don't remember the wraps or ID, but it's reading around 0.56Ω, and the flavor and clouds are fantastic!
 

joeyboy

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Right now I'm running dual 2x30SS316L/40N80 fused Claptons on mine in a Petri V2. I don't remember the wraps or ID, but it's reading around 0.56Ω, and the flavor and clouds are fantastic!
I have 24 316l and 28 316l. Would twisted 28 316l work better? It's pretty small. I know I need higher ohms for this.
 

CrazyChef

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28 gauge twisted 316L will work as a dual coil build. You'll need 10 wraps and a 3.0mm iD.
 

joeyboy

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Using dual 24g kanthal at a final ohm of 0.6....this should be fine using 25r batteries? I calculate 14 amps on 20 amp batteries with that build. This doesn't include any sag. Anyone see any issues with this before I start?
 

PaulS

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I have two Crickets - one has Chef's .86 build and one has my .37 build - yes mine is low. However, I really enjoy both. I only use Sony or LGs in my Crickets and have had no issues. However with any build below .5 ohm you have to be sensitive to the heat of the mod. I don't chain vapoe the .37 heavily. On Chef's I can chain vape.
 

joeyboy

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Okay, I got the NC and put a 0.45 dual 24g kanthal build. I used vtc4 Batts so no issues. Realized why Claptons are used on these. I wanted a higher ohm butt I wasn't redoing the rda. Those are the best 0.5 second vapes I have ever had and the most power and flavor from that juice. This makes me rethink my building on my other devices.
 

r055co

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Okay, I got the NC and put a 0.45 dual 24g kanthal build. I used vtc4 Batts so no issues. Realized why Claptons are used on these. I wanted a higher ohm butt I wasn't redoing the rda. Those are the best 0.5 second vapes I have ever had and the most power and flavor from that juice. This makes me rethink my building on my other devices.
Sweet spot for me is 30x2/36 fused Claptons @ 0.7-0.8 ohms. Series mods are wonderful with fused Claptons around that build. Even around 1-1.2 ohm builds are great

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

joeyboy

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Sweet spot for me is 30x2/36 fused Claptons @ 0.7-0.8 ohms. Series mods are wonderful with fused Claptons around that build. Even around 1-1.2 ohm builds are great

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
So your using duals for those?

Edit: 0.8 is what I wanted but I was a few wraps short. I figured I was but too lazy to look.
 

r055co

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So your using duals for those?

Edit: 0.8 is what I wanted but I was a few wraps short. I figured I was but too lazy to look.
Yep, around 9 wraps around a 3mm di, 30x2/36 fused Clapton's Kanthal

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Mythical_OD

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Just wanted to throw this out there as I just found out about it last week and got it a couple days ago.

Theres a company that makes an upgrade kits for the Noisy Cricket mod that, imo, makes it much better. The kit is pretty simple. Contains a magnetic button for a smoother throw and less misfires, and a nice floating 510 connection plate that sits above the mod itself instead of sitting flush or counter sunk like the standard direct connect plate, which makes it easier to remove your atty not to mention much safer than direct connection. Also comes with a tube so you can put the old button and connection on that and have a spare tube mod with Cricket parts.

Like I said, I got one a few days ago and have been loving the changes. The place that makes/sells them is Fat Daddy Vapes (not connected or affiliated with them) and they ship fast from in the US.
 

r055co

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Just wanted to throw this out there as I just found out about it last week and got it a couple days ago.

Theres a company that makes an upgrade kits for the Noisy Cricket mod that, imo, makes it much better. The kit is pretty simple. Contains a magnetic button for a smoother throw and less misfires, and a nice floating 510 connection plate that sits above the mod itself instead of sitting flush or counter sunk like the standard direct connect plate, which makes it easier to remove your atty not to mention much safer than direct connection. Also comes with a tube so you can put the old button and connection on that and have a spare tube mod with Cricket parts.

Like I said, I got one a few days ago and have been loving the changes. The place that makes/sells them is Fat Daddy Vapes (not connected or affiliated with them) and they ship fast from in the US.
I got it, very highly recommend it.

Love the tube also, very nice addition.

Shot of both next to the Ohmega parallel I also got the same day


537b28a21f86a08cdebe5dbb5525b000.jpg


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AlbyKortoona

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Never had any issues with the fire button, and I bought the Cricket in part for the hybrid cap. The last one I bought was $15, and I've seen them cheaper. I really don't understand why you would spend just as much for that neutering kit. If you wanted a 510, something like the Lucifer clone is cheaper than a NC with the kit, and it has a "safety" for those than need it. Each to their own, but I have no use for that kit.
 

r055co

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Never had any issues with the fire button, and I bought the Cricket in part for the hybrid cap. The last one I bought was $15, and I've seen them cheaper. I really don't understand why you would spend just as much for that neutering kit. If you wanted a 510, something like the Lucifer clone is cheaper than a NC with the kit, and it has a "safety" for those than need it. Each to their own, but I have no use for that kit.
Well good for you then, some of us really like the size, feel and looks. But the hybrid deck is a limitation due to not being able to to run a number of devices on it. The so called neuter you are referring to I take is voltage drop, ever put an in line meter on it? I have, if there is any it's negligible at the most.

But hey, each their own.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

joeyboy

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@r055co I just searched and found where people could not attached the NC hybrid top to the upgrade kit tube. Did yours give you any issue?
 

r055co

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@r055co I just searched and found where people could not attached the NC hybrid top to the upgrade kit tube. Did yours give you any issue?
Nope, I've got two for both of mine and not an issue with either

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r055co

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@r055co I just searched and found where people could not attached the NC hybrid top to the upgrade kit tube. Did yours give you any issue?
I'm inclined to believe that it's more user error than anything. If you couldn't attach one you wouldn't be able to attach to the other

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joeyboy

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I'm inclined to believe that it's more user error than anything. If you couldn't attach one you wouldn't be able to attach to the other

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That was my exact thought when I saw the review. If one works the other works. So how well does the tube work?
 

r055co

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That was my exact thought when I saw the review. If one works the other works. So how well does the tube work?
Actually pretty damn good, I'm actually sporting it today. It's a very simple tube mod, hell it's just a tube with two good size Cyclops vent holes. I actually really like it, it hits very well, small very nice finish that with the coating doesn't make your hand smell of copper.
 

AlbyKortoona

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Well good for you then, some of us really like the size, feel and looks. But the hybrid deck is a limitation due to not being able to to run a number of devices on it. The so called neuter you are referring to I take is voltage drop, ever put an in line meter on it? I have, if there is any it's negligible at the most.

But hey, each their own.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Sounds like something a bitch would say, and I can almost hear the whine in your voice...
 

joeyboy

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When using rdas do you put more cotton than say a normal mod? I put the same amount as my normal mods with an equal build but I need more juice for the NC and it leaks due to the increased juice need. I see builds with a crap ton of cotton on the bottom.

I don't use tanks. I bought the billow v2 and the lemo and hated both. Could not wick them and billow deck too small for my eyes.
 

f1r3b1rd

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Yeah, replaces the hybrid connector and the button. Supposed to make it safer, I dunno. I just got it to play with. I never really felt unsafe since I know my build, I know my batteries, and I know which of my attys have suitable pins... One upside is it should keep juice off the battery. Maybe my tm2 has a leak or something but every time I opened the cricket to change the batts today there was a little juice on the battery top cap. Not the hybrid connector, but the battery itself.
Awesome thank you!!! Definitely getting this


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r055co

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Sounds like something a bitch would say, and I can almost hear the whine in your voice...
OK if you say so, not all of us are such ignorant fucks.

So you can happily go on with vaping your "competition" pre-made coils from G-Plat wire.

Cloud's Bro .........
 
Last edited:

JERUS

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Never had any issues with the fire button, and I bought the Cricket in part for the hybrid cap. The last one I bought was $15, and I've seen them cheaper. I really don't understand why you would spend just as much for that neutering kit. If you wanted a 510, something like the Lucifer clone is cheaper than a NC with the kit, and it has a "safety" for those than need it. Each to their own, but I have no use for that kit.
It's not just the button/connection though, you're basically buying a simple tube mod ($15 is a decent price for that alone) that has pieces that you can swap onto what for many is one of their favorite mods to make it in some ways better. I have no worries about using hybrid mods, I know what is safe and what isn't, but there are atomizers I have that I cannot use on a hybrid that I would like to be able to match with the NC. If this kit allows those to work it'd be a plus for me. I've tried the heat sinks but so far the ones I've picked up are either shitty or just too short of a 510.

I have a Lucifer, I like my Lucifer, but the NC is just perfection in my eyes as far as looks/feel. Nice size, and a simple classy look.
 

r055co

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It's not just the button/connection though, you're basically buying a simple tube mod ($15 is a decent price for that alone) that has pieces that you can swap onto what for many is one of their favorite mods to make it in some ways better. I have no worries about using hybrid mods, I know what is safe and what isn't, but there are atomizers I have that I cannot use on a hybrid that I would like to be able to match with the NC. If this kit allows those to work it'd be a plus for me. I've tried the heat sinks but so far the ones I've picked up are either shitty or just too short of a 510.

I have a Lucifer, I like my Lucifer, but the NC is just perfection in my eyes as far as looks/feel. Nice size, and a simple classy look.
Yep, I'm actually using the tube today with the hybrid with my Velocity V2, nice vape. The entire "hybrids lower voltage drop/better hit" hype is just that, hype IMO. My favorite series mod is the Piglet hits as good or better than the NC, damn awesome mod. I've also put an in-line meter on both my NC's and tested. Maybe at best a 0.01 difference if that.

The limitation of the hybrid style connection for what device you can use on it isn't worth it. Also with the price point of the NC I see a lot of people buying it who have no clue on what they are doing. The NC was actually my first mech, but I had enough sense to do my homework, but sadly a lot of people don't. All they think about is "Clouds Bro" and will end up blowing their face off with either putting the wrong device on it and/or building stupid low with eFeast batteries
 

AlbyKortoona

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OK if you say so, not all of us are such ignorant fucks.

So you can happily go on with vaping your "competition" pre-made coils from G-Plat wire.

Cloud's Bro .........

You may not be an ignorant fuck, jury's still out on that one, but you are a first class asshole.

If for some notion you want to use a subohm tank on the NC, get a heat sink for a couple of bucks.

And putting a NC switch on the bottom of a tube is just stupid.

"go on with vaping your "competition" pre-made coils from G-Plat wire" Where did that come from you miserable piece of shit? Is that what you used to do?

You probably also buy into the "smoother button with less misfires". While I have had a couple of magnetic switches that worked well, most are problematic and the next thing you will be able to buy is a magnet upgrade kit. The stock button is perfectly smooth, and I have never had it "misfire" If yours is, the problem is user error and not the button. The other fucking lie that is being retold as truth is that the NC button will melt. I guess if you repeat a lie enough times it becomes true.

Ya know, on second thought, you are an ignorant fuck in a hat.
 

r055co

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You may not be an ignorant fuck, jury's still out on that one, but you are a first class asshole.

Well I'm not the fucktard that replied to the post with a you're a whinny bitch.

So bottom line, go back to your "Clouds Bro" and fuck yourself you ignorant fuck
 

joeyboy

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@AlbyKortoona You know the NC switch is basically a smpl mod switch so if you have a smpl mod, which I do, what's the difference? It's the same switch. Do your research.
 

AlbyKortoona

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Clever comeback lol. Alby slinks back to his darkened room to sulk...
 

AlbyKortoona

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@AlbyKortoona You know the NC switch is basically a smpl mod switch so if you have a smpl mod, which I do, what's the difference? It's the same switch. Do your research.

Don't be a joey. There is a reason that there are upgrade kits for that switch.
 

r055co

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@AlbyKortoona You know the NC switch is basically a smpl mod switch so if you have a smpl mod, which I do, what's the difference? It's the same switch. Do your research.
I got the upgrade. Your just a jerk. Go back to ECF or did they kick you from there?

Yep, think he needs to take heed of the old saying

"Better to be thought of as a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt" ;)

Anyway, time to use the "ignore" option
 

AlbyKortoona

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2 classic twatwafflers. Are you guys having a two man circle jerk? Apparently logic and a valid argument are foreign subjects to you both. And joey, quit ditching "grammer" school.
 

JERUS

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If for some notion you want to use a subohm tank on the NC, get a heat sink for a couple of bucks.

.
I have bought 3 heat sinks, first one the pin was just gnarled and useless. Second the pin while it could push out far enough when doing so it would fall out, not something I really like the idea of happening, shouldn't be an issue, but not the safest thing. Last one simply couldn't make contact, too short of 510. So it just didn't work out for me unfortunately, but at like $2 each it's not so bad, and I actually have put one of them to use on my Lucifer (The Griffin connection just isn't long enough but with the combination it works well... just makes it damn tall).
 

r055co

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I have bought 3 heat sinks, first one the pin was just gnarled and useless. Second the pin while it could push out far enough when doing so it would fall out, not something I really like the idea of happening, shouldn't be an issue, but not the safest thing. Last one simply couldn't make contact, too short of 510. So it just didn't work out for me unfortunately, but at like $2 each it's not so bad, and I actually have put one of them to use on my Lucifer (The Griffin connection just isn't long enough but with the combination it works well... just makes it damn tall).
Heat Sinks are a bit of a hit and miss, I've gotten some that have been great, some real shit. You can find them on eBay, last couple I got while good quality it seemed the 510 ping doesn't float worth a shit. Had to put a 3mm rod down and pound the shit out of them to adjust, this was from Vapeheart. The 510 pin is just too damn tight and does not adjust unless you pound it through.

I've ordered another couple from another seller, should get them any day now. Send me a PM and I'll let you know how well they're constructed.
 

r055co

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That was my exact thought when I saw the review. If one works the other works. So how well does the tube work?

Also been Vaping on that tube from the upgrade kit with the stock cricket parts and popped a copper heat sink on it, very nice little compact tube. Not a bad tube mod at all, works well. Here it is in size comparison to a couple other tube's I'm vaping on. Yes I know, I have waaaaaaaaaaay too many devices, and I admit, I'm a Vapaholic ;)

nctube_zpsgfxealat.jpg
 

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