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Thoughts on the Noisy Cricket
- Thread starter noejuice
- Start date
Was posted on the last page, 1mm higher maybe? Essentially just that top bit of knurling on the 510 connection piece.
Nice little tube, I put a heat sink on that makes it a bit taller.
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I want someone to come out with a heatsinkless "heatsink" just a 510 connection. The upgrade for the NC is cool, and I got it, but it's a floating section not the solid connection I want. I want that thing to sit like I have a heatsink on it, but I don't need a heatsink as I don't vape to the point that I need that cooling gap between the mod and atty.
Confused, the floating pin is the reason for the kit.
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No absolutely, It's a great option, I just want a better one is what I'm saying. Not just for the NC, but for all mods I want that secure 510 adapter I described. In the end even with the adapter you still have a floating piece connecting to the battery, I'd prefer a solid one. Pin the battery, connect the atty, that kind of thing.
So you want a 510 deck with a heat sink built in? If so yes I very much agree, would love to see that myself.
Edit:
Reading your response again I still don't get it. With the deck on the upgrade kit, screw it on the Addy first before you screw it into the NC, it will sit flush. It is a solid floating pin
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Yeah that was before getting it, just reading the specs it said floating, so I was expecting a loose piece just hanging out in there, not one with an o-ring that sits in there pretty firmly. It's actually pretty solid. Still would like that more universal adapter I'm talking about for other potential uses though.
Understood and I agree.
I've actually got a line on a machine shop who may be up to making a few small runs without major cost. What I'm thinking of is getting some pins and decks made. Also to get a few stainless steel NC bodies made. Love the NC but don't like the aluminum for it's life span.
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10 amps?I'll take one of those Cricket bodies18350 sized would be cool as well.
It'd pretty much be useless
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No offense but I would disagree. It is series mod that would still fire at 7.4-8.4 Volt. I am positive there is plenty of coil configurations that would provide plenty of fire. 18650 cricket can be built below 3.5 Ohm but it's getting too hot for most people because of high voltage output. It would be smallest unregulated mechanical mod as well.
Yup, I have made a few 1Ω+ builds that actually work very well with a series mech, which would be plenty safe for 18350's, but I'd prefer the 18650s.
JamesV
Member For 4 Years
I have some SS claptons 26/30 from Advanced Vape Supply that are around .709 ohm each. Meaning duals would be around .34ohm do you think that would much for the noisy cricket?
James
Right now I'm runing dual coils that are kanthal an regular wrap 26 gauge that come out to about .72
James
Right now I'm runing dual coils that are kanthal an regular wrap 26 gauge that come out to about .72
CrazyChef
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It depends on the batteries you are using. Some batteries (like the Samsung 25Rs) can pulse nicely beyond their continuous discharge rating. Without knowing which batteries you're using or the complete specs of the Claptons, none of us can say that they're safe to vape on a Noisy Cricket.
JamesV
Member For 4 Years
They batteries are Sony VTC5 2600 the Claptons are the one in this link https://www.advancedvapesupply.com/...less-steel-clapton-coil-26g-or-28g-30g-or-32g, they're the 26g core, 30g wrap at 3mm diameter
You need to be familiar with Steam Engine if you're going to using a mech, ESPECIALLY with a series mod.
http://www.steam-engine.org/
Tank on a Noisy Cricket?....I have a Super Tank Mini with a 1.0 Ohm aspire coil on Mine and with a new pair of Samsung 25r's powering it up.....I have found true love!....It is a great shade of blue,and the STM is sporting a blue color to match!....I just read this whole thread for info on building for a N/C ...lot of great ideas bouncing around,and the bickering and such did break up the tome a lil bit....Z
JamesV
Member For 4 Years
The coils are eight wraps I am quite familiar with steam engine I use it for all m own builds but I was just wondering if .34 would be to hot much for the noisy cricket. Because each coil ohms out around .709ohm which means dual would be around .34-.32 ohmgive or take onnnothingmy Griffen and Boreas.
Oh and coming this week im going to have you work your Crazy Chef magic an have to order some coils from you for the boreas, griffen,and the velocity. I want a pair of framed staple coils for the noisy cricket but i need it so running dual coils the velocity ohms out around .5-.7 would that be possible? An can you make framed alien staple coils the size for it to fit the Griffen tank and another set for the Boreas. Would it be possible for one set the alien coils to use nickel wrap preferably the set for the Boreas so I can use temp control? Both the Griffen tank and Boreas tank with be running on a DNA 200 mod. How would the single wire polished Nichrome 80 . 75 ohm be with the noisy cricket?
Oh and coming this week im going to have you work your Crazy Chef magic an have to order some coils from you for the boreas, griffen,and the velocity. I want a pair of framed staple coils for the noisy cricket but i need it so running dual coils the velocity ohms out around .5-.7 would that be possible? An can you make framed alien staple coils the size for it to fit the Griffen tank and another set for the Boreas. Would it be possible for one set the alien coils to use nickel wrap preferably the set for the Boreas so I can use temp control? Both the Griffen tank and Boreas tank with be running on a DNA 200 mod. How would the single wire polished Nichrome 80 . 75 ohm be with the noisy cricket?
CrazyChef
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Thank you, but that's probably not gonna happen. Ribbon is inherently much lower in resistance than round wire. The coils would have to be VERY wide to make them able to be used as a dual coil setup in a Noisy Cricket.
Unfortunately, right now I'm only offering SS316L for TC coils.
The Polished coils are pretty easy to spec out for the NC.
JamesV
Member For 4 Years
Could you do on set of aliens with a 316L wrap and the other just with the nichrome80 wrap. An I guess I'll get the framed staples because I've heard awesome things about them as long as they'll fit the AugVape Boreas. An get the single polished niche one 80 for the noisy cricket. What other coils do you make that your recommend for the noises cricket?
PS I've heard the best things of your coils!!!
PS I've heard the best things of your coils!!!
CrazyChef
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Absolutely.
Cool. I just speced out a framed staple for the NC. 4x0.3mm ribbon, 28 gauge frames, 36 gauge binding, all kanthal. 8 wraps (both legs going in opposite directions), 2.5mm inside diameter. It should register around 0.48Ω as a SINGLE coil. Estimating it will pull about 17-18 amps on a couple of fully charge batteries. Run it lengthwise through the Velocity.
That'll work.
High gauge Aliens and Fused Claptons.
Aw, shucks... Thanks!
It intrigued me too.. I was gonna buy a different dual 18650 mech but when i walked into the shop they told me he'd give me the NC for $20.. Needless to say it the cricket hopped into my pocket.. From what i was told its best to build above .5Ω. Also they said that the NC requires a shitload of maintenance, like almost daily cleaning of the contacts. However when i got home and got it all built it was pretty fuckin cool.. I guess it depends on the build n atty, but i didnt get great flavor on a dual 24g 12 wrap NI in the indestructible rda... Though the clouds were dense and voluptuous.. Its not any everyday mod for me but its fun to use for an hour or so while i walk my dog or do paperwork. If your intrigued, cautious, and arent goin to mind a little extra maintenance then go for it.. Its a fun toy to add to your collection and at the price you cant afford to pass it up
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Ohhh.. And im using green samsung batteries with no issues..
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CrazyChef
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Just like @Vape7od uses, I highly recommend the Samsung 25Rs from liionwholesale.com.
Try it with a set of kanthal and/or nichrome fused Clapton coils. You'll be amazed at the difference!
Last edited:
Build above 0.4 ohms
5 bucks at Ecig, Well, 8 bucks with shipping.
Shit I them some where for 5 bucks
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Ladowscar
Member For 3 Years
Yeah I just put an order in on 3fvape for a heat sink for this very reason... well and picked up a few other goodies
Just get a FDV kit for it
I've got an issue with NC's button.. after fully tighten the plastic part keeps spinning.. once it fully got assembled by the pin and instantly sent power to the atty. Also if i turn it half spin more it locks the key. Any hint on how to fix it?
Thank you in advance sorry for the grave-digging (6 months after last post)
Thank you in advance sorry for the grave-digging (6 months after last post)
I would agree with BK. There is an indent on the plastic part that interfaces with a protrusion on the threaded housing. I don't believe that it could be put together without aligning those pieces, and my best guess is that it was tightened down with too much force and stripped off the plastic piece. I have seen replacement buttons for sale in the past, and Fat Daddy Vapes used to sell an "upgrade" kit (hack/cough) but have heard that the button was worse than the stock unit.
Yeah, they're not for everybody. I bought a few when ecig had them for 5 bucks, and judging on how long my first two have lasted (are lasting), I'm set for life.
I'm not sure why I had such problems with it, but I killed the buttons quick. My favorite vape on it was my dark horse with some 3mm Claptons. Want to get another series mech now but obviously need something with a better button arrangement.Yeah, they're not for everybody. I bought a few when ecig had them for 5 bucks, and judging on how long my first two have lasted (are lasting), I'm set for life.
Woodchucker
Member For 4 Years
Check out the vcp piglet, just a tad pricyer lol... but it's a damn nice series mod and worth it, not much to ware out on that one. I have 2. Button is always nice on that one!
I have been using My N/C for over seven months!..A.D.V....No problems at all 'cept not being able to set it down I love it so!....I don't think You should be so hard on that poor lil button,I have never used a coin to tighten the switch....I have cleaned it two or three times over the constant use the only thing I found is the ends of the batteries that need the most upkeep....I do have one "Mod" I did to the button,I was not liking the crunchy feel once in awhile so I put an O ring in the metal contact that the button screws into....I found that a 1/4" O.D 1/8" I.D with a 1/16" thickness "O" fits right inside the contact,screw it back together making sure the button guides line up with the outer ring....It lets the plastic button to set an 1/16" higher but still keeps it tight and together,guides lined up,with no slop...And NO CRUNCHY....Z