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Ti vs ni help please

drew83

Member For 4 Years
Hi all.

I have:
Istick 40w TC
Ego one mega tank
Ni coils (0.2 ohm).
60vg:40pg or 70vg:30pg juice

Overall i am happy with the set up. A few bum choices with juices have left me a few bad days but that's my error.

I am purely wondering if i will notice a difference by switching to the ti coils?

As i understand it I won't need to do anything different just screw in ti coils instead of ni coils. Can still use tc mode, same temps etc?

So are there differences in ti vs ni?

Cheers Drew




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lordmage

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ti has a different profile then ni coils so if your device has a ti mode i would suggest using that. or read up on temperature offsetting
To match it on a mod set to Nickel Ni200 (TFR curve), adjust the temperature to ~150°C or ~310°F.
 

drew83

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Ok cheers lordmage. Are there any benefits with flavour/cloud production/ longevity of coils?


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dre

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Not with premade coils but titanium coils you can rewick last a lot longer since you can clean them and rewick.

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OneBadWolf

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Just curious, why not stainless steel? SS has less taste in and of itself, lasts longer and can be pulse cleaned.
 

dre

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I find SS gets too hot and isn't very good at tc. Sure you can stop a dry burn with a good device but its to inconsistent. I can't find tune it like titanium.

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OneBadWolf

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I find SS gets too hot and isn't very good at tc. Sure you can stop a dry burn with a good device but its to inconsistent. I can't find tune it like titanium.

Sorry, was asking the OP. I run SS in wattage, and it works flawlessly in TC on my devices as well. Both with contact and spaced coils. What mod are you using?

Edit, I think I answered my own question, I don't think they make SS for the Ego
 
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AlbyKortoona

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Depends on the stainless. 316L and 317L have a low TCR and I've had trouble with some TC mods (VT200, Evic Mini) being able to read them with any consistency or stability. SS 430 works much better for me. For longevity have not noticed a substantial difference between Ti and SS, but pulse cleaning is a plus for stainless.
 

ayersbj

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My istick 60w has two different modes for tc. NI for the ni200 and ti for titanium. I like the titanium better for me because the liquid tastes better. I tested it out by using a liquid I really like and tried a tank with ni200 and a tank with titanium. To me the ni200 had less flavor. So you may wanna just experiment. Make sure you use the right setting tho.
 

lordmage

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i am currently testing out reactor wire nife52 alloy. so far i like that i can treat it like kantal just like SS and it is more stable in Tc mode but that's on a dna200
 

drew83

Member For 4 Years
Looks like the 40tc doesn't have ti. Unless it reads it automatically when i screw it in? Just don't want to waste the money on coils I can't use.

As for stainless (onebadwolf)

a) didn't know it was available for coils
B) I don't build my own
C) the site i buy from only offered ni or ti.

I am still only 5 months into vaping.

Local shops are useless. End up calling a shop about 100 miles away and asking their help and ordering from their site on their recommendations.

Cheers for the help.

If anyone cam answer if istick 40wtc can do ti that be great. Eleaf site doesn't say it can but doesn't say it can't either.

Cheers again



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AlbyKortoona

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i am currently testing out reactor wire nife52 alloy. so far i like that i can treat it like kantal just like SS and it is more stable in Tc mode but that's on a dna200

I like NiFe52, easier to work with than pure nickel and more stable on TC than 316/317l. I would hesitate to use it just like kanthal due to the nickel (52%), some say that nickel is not good for you if heated to glowing orange.
 

AlbyKortoona

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Looks like the 40tc doesn't have ti. Unless it reads it automatically when i screw it in? Just don't want to waste the money on coils I can't use.

As for stainless (onebadwolf)

a) didn't know it was available for coils
B) I don't build my own
C) the site i buy from only offered ni or ti.

I am still only 5 months into vaping.

Local shops are useless. End up calling a shop about 100 miles away and asking their help and ordering from their site on their recommendations.

Cheers for the help.

If anyone cam answer if istick 40wtc can do ti that be great. Eleaf site doesn't say it can but doesn't say it can't either.

Cheers again



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A rule of thumb that I have heard is adjust the temp down 100 degrees from what you use Ni at if you want to use Ti in Ni temp mode. Don't know the veracity of that as I never had to try. I would be inclined to do a dry burn test (atomizer base with dry coil on mod) to see if it's working.
 

Maximumoverdrive

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I like NiFe52, easier to work with than pure nickel and more stable on TC than 316/317l. I would hesitate to use it just like kanthal due to the nickel (52%), some say that nickel is not good for you if heated to glowing orange.

Based on that theory you'd have to rule out all N80 A.K.A. Nichrome 80 since it is 80% Nickel and not capable of Temp control!!
Unlike Nichrome 80 the NiFe 52 self regulates on a mech mod I.E. the resistance doubles from cold to 475°F and then continues to climb if you stay on the fire button.
 

AlbyKortoona

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I guess the 20% chromium is enough to make Nichrome unsuitable for temp control, but I don't know. It is confusing that NiFe52 will work in TC with the 52% nickel/iron alloy, but Nichrome with the much higher percentage of nickel will not. I'm apparently missing something obvious here. Nichrome has less resistance than kanthal, and heats up quicker, but I have not seen a tcr curve for it. The kanthal "curve" is flat, and my understanding is that is why it's no good for TC. Like other TC suitable wires, NiFe52 resistance increases as it's temperature rises. I guess that is what you mean by self regulating. And I also guess that you're saying that it is ok to treat nickel the same as kanthal. Perhaps it is...
 

Maximumoverdrive

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This is a very old thread, but don't want anyone that reads it to leave with the impression that it's ok to treat Nickel like Kanthal. It's not! Nickel should never be dry fired to glowing Red The oxides created are not beneficial to the wires performance and worse yet are potentially harmful. Nickel should never be used on a mech mod or even in watt mode.

Nickel wire was not really ever intended to be resistance wire (hence it has no fing resistance). Ni 200 (pure Nickel wire) was just picked by Evolve to be used with there first TC board due to it's easiest to read high TCR value and it's availability.

A1 Kanthal and Nichrome 80 were designed to be resistance wire and by design maintain the flattest possible resistance change over their full working temperature range (negligible TCR). That's why they do not and never will work in TC mode.

Stainless was not intended or designed to be resistance heating wire, It should not be oxidized via dry-fire.

Titanium; well I'll stick to using Ti retainers in my small block Chevy, but I'll never vape it.

NiFe 52 was designed to be used as a resistance heating element with self regulating properties (TCR curve) and it's also used in sensor applications that utilize it's flat by design, TCR.

NiFe 52 is a different animal altogether. Unlike Nichrome 80 the NiFe's Iron component also has a TCR curve that compliments the Nickel's allowing it to work very well in TC applications. Both A1 Kanthal and NiFe 52 are designed to be oxidized prior to being put into service. When dry fired glowing Red Kanthal A1 and NiFe 52 form a protective oxide layer that acts as an insulator preventing one coil loop from shorting to the next. The NiFe 52 oxide layer (made up of primarily iron oxide) also seals in the base metal (Nickel), thus preventing the Nickel from leaching into the juice. I know 2 people highly allergic/sensitive to nickel that could not use Ni 200 or Nichrome 80, but had no issues with the NiFe 52 (Reactor Wire version). The Reactor Wire is 100% manufactured in the USA with the correct trace element components required to ensure the proper formation of the protective oxide layer resultant from dry firing/oxidizing the coils.

The above explains why NiFe 52 can be used in TC or Watt mode, but Reactor Wire has one additional really cool advantage. I use it on mech mods and design the coils based on desired hot resistance. Meaning when fired cold the watts start out considerably higher then I want to vape (yet still within safe battery limits). Then as the coil heats up resistance climbs and watts go down. So my mech mod has preheat boost mode with self regulating watt reduction if the coils start getting to hot! How awesome is that!! I switch my tank from mech mod to DNA to power mode and it works great on all with 1 build. When it gets gunked, just dry fire rinse and re-wick till I get sick of the build and want to try something new.

NiFe 52 is the ideal wire for vaping period! Eventually the science will catch up and this will become more obvious. The catch is that it is not commonly used for anything in gauges that work for vaping so it is hard to get and those who are selling it with the exception of Reactor Wire have gone the cheap route via china.

I cannot speak for or recommend any of the other versions of NiFe 52 available, but I do know that none of them as of 8/17/17 are genuine Kanthal or Sandvik manufactured. I know at least one overseas supplier has a good reputation for delivering NiFe 52, 30 , and 70, however some suppliers attempts have been utter failures. They are most likely all drawn in China with important trace element accuracy unknown? Based on the resistance deviation from specified Kanthal spec sheets I suspect the China NiFe 52 are the equivalent to a batch of chocolate chip cookies that were baked without vanilla extract and had Carob chips substituted for Hershey's. Yeah there chocolate chip cookies, sort of, but yuck.
 

champton

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Not with premade coils but titanium coils you can rewick last a lot longer since you can clean them and rewick.

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I've never even been able to find Titanium wire. How do those vape for you compared to NiChrome?
 

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