Become a Patron!

Violent Popping + Resistance Fluctuation

Perilous3D

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Lately I have experimenting with different atomizers and settings. The RTA I like most so far is the Aromamizer Anniversary Edition. It looks pretty sleek in its gun metal black and its compact design. I really like it except for the fact that it pops violently the first time I use it after it's been sitting for a while. I noticed that this seems to correlate directly with the fluctuation I'm seeing in Ohms. When I first connect it to my mod, it's reads 0.29. After a few seconds of vaping, it shoots up to 0.32, then a second or so later, it pops very loudly and finally settles around 0.33 after the first pop. If I keep vaping on it, it won't pop anymore, just a slight sizzle, but if I leave it sit for a few minutes, it goes back down to 0.29 Ohms and then pops loudly again when I first puff on it. What gives?! Have I done something wrong in my coil/deck build? I'm worried that I am using this thing in an unsafe way since I am still very new to all this mechanical mod madness.

Here are the specs of my build:

Mod: Reuleux DNA200 Evolv
Atomizer: Aromamizer Anniversary Edition
Coils: 2 x Pre-Built SS coils that came with the atomizer. Not sure the exact specs.
Batteries: 3 x Sony VTC5 2600mAH 30A
Wick: Koiler Organic Cotton
Juice: 12 Monkeys Mangabeys (3mg) & Ruthless Jungle Fever (3mg). I have tried both with this setup. Same thing. Both are high VG juices, I think 80/20.

I've read countless articles and watched tons of videos to try to understand what's going on but I just don't get it. A lot of this stuff is way over my head. If anyone has some advice or "dos and do nots" that I need to know, I would greatly appreciate your feedback. The popping has got so loud now that I feel like it's going to explode when I use it. I have tried using an RDA instead (Lush) which also pops sometimes but not nearly as violently. Just a little spitback which I guess is to be expected with a dripper like this. Please help!! I'm at a loss to explain this... Thank you!
 
Last edited:

Perilous3D

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
More info I forgot to put in the original post:

With Aromamizer connected...
Current Resistance: 0.30 Ohms
Temperature: 400 F
Wattage: 30 W
Coils: 2 x horizontal coils, pre-built. Based on my research they are made of SS but not sure what kind or the gauge.

With Lush RDA connected...
Current Resistance: 0.22 Ohms
Temperature: 400 F
Wattage: 30 W
Coils: 2 x Kanthal Clapton Wire 24G+30G

I have not figured out how to set an appropriate profile for my coils yet nor have I really figured out the best way to use Temperature Control (or if I even should be using it) so these may be significant factors. I'm just vaping on whatever it's set to now by default, Nickel I think. Also, I noticed that since I last tinkered around in EScribe, my vapor production is way down. Hope that helps a bit more to identity what the heck is going on here. And yes, I'm well aware this likely has to do with my sheer noobiness.
 
Last edited:

Jim_MDP

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
First... the DNA with its' deep customizability is not the best choice as you're combining learning what EScribe and the mod offers with getting used to an unfamiliar atomizer and TC itself.

That's quite a load of variables. But... it's what you have so push on through, you'll get it down.

I've got a very similar build in my 'Mizer (26g SS dual @0.3) and it's a snap-cracklin' little beast. It happens, it's not going to blow up on you. And I've got my temp a good 60F higher than yours. If yours is producing well that low, good... mine doesn't (I just tried).

There are various thoughts about the causes...
The build combined with the interior design of the atty's deck and chamber bell; wicking that allows juice to accumulate and be violently boiled on the next firing; whether too low a temp or power contributes to it; sweet juices; etc. I do not know.

But you should get into a DNA Reuleaux thread or at the least one of our other DNA ones, and get to learning how to tune the mod for your attys and batteries. It's important.
Checking the Aromamizer thread(s) wouldn't go amiss either.
 

Perilous3D

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
First... the DNA with its' deep customizability is not the best choice as you're combining learning what EScribe and the mod offers with getting used to an unfamiliar atomizer and TC itself.

That's quite a load of variables. But... it's what you have so push on through, you'll get it down.

I've got a very similar build in my 'Mizer (26g SS dual @0.3) and it's a snap-cracklin' little beast. It happens, it's not going to blow up on you. And I've got my temp a good 60F higher than yours. If yours is producing well that low, good... mine doesn't (I just tried).

There are various thoughts about the causes...
The build combined with the interior design of the atty's deck and chamber bell; wicking that allows juice to accumulate and be violently boiled on the next firing; whether too low a temp or power contributes to it; sweet juices; etc. I do not know.

But you should get into a DNA Reuleaux thread or at the least one of our other DNA ones, and get to learning how to tune the mod for your attys and batteries. It's important.
Checking the Aromamizer thread(s) wouldn't go amiss either.

Thanks for the reply, Jim! Had I known this mod was for advanced users, I would have never bought it. At the time, I was asking around to see what I should get. This mod came highly recommended so I jumped on it not knowing how much there was to learn. But as you say, what's done is done. This is what I have to work with I'm just finding it very overwhelming at times considering I don't know the first thing about electronics and I'm bad at math.

Nonetheless, I am up to the challenge while realistically understanding that it will be a long road for me. I will try posting on the DNA Reuleux or Aromamizer threads to see if I can better optimize this setup. I was just concerned that the popping was the result of something dangerous I have done in my configuration. A friend I was talking to earlier suggested to try a custom coil rather than a pre-built one. I only have pre-built coils at the moment and no actual spool of wire so I'm limited to what I can do but I will try. It can't hurt right? I'm also still experimenting with higher/lower watts. He seems to think this may be caused by the temperature and/or the juice pooling like you said.

Onward and upward! :)
 
Last edited:

Neunerball

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
With Lush RDA connected...
Current Resistance: 0.22 Ohms
Temperature: 400 F
Wattage: 30 W
Coils: 2 x Kanthal Clapton Wire 24G+30G
.
One thing for sure, Kanthal wire is not for TC mode, unless you'd have a Hohmtech mod.

The popping could be caused by not enough wicking material in the coil.
 

Zamazam

Evil Vulcan's do it with Logic
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Lots of popping and snapping usually indicates not enough wick in the coil. The wick should be snug when dry, but not tight. You should be able to move it back and forth in the coil with a little resistance.
 

Neunerball

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Thanks for the reply, Jim! Had I known this mod was for advanced users, I would have never bought it. At the time, I was asking around to see what I should get. This mod came highly recommended so I jumped on it not knowing how much there was to learn. But as you say, what's done is done. This is what I have to work with I'm just finding it very overwhelming at times considering I don't know the first thing about electronics and I'm bad at math.

Nonetheless, I am up to the challenge while realistically understanding that it will be a long road for me. I will try posting on the DNA Reuleux or Aromamizer threads to see if I can better optimize this setup. I was just concerned that the popping was the result of something dangerous I have done in my configuration. A friend I was talking to earlier suggested to try a custom coil rather than a pre-built one. I onlye have pre-built coils at the moment and no actual spool of wire so I'm limited to what I can do but I will try. It can't hurt right? I'm also still experimenting with higher/lower watts. He seems to think this may be caused by the temperature and/or the juice pooling like you said.

Onward and upward! :)
Regarding your SS pre-made coils, usually they are made of 316L. If you don't have the material pre-installed on your mod, you can create a CSV file for 316L for download to your PC, and upload to your mod via Escribe here at http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp
 

Perilous3D

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
These are the pre-built coils I'm using. I got this exact pack of 5.

https://www.eciggity.com/comp-wire-by-wotofo/

Currently in my RDA, I'm using the clapton wire. IT doesn't really specify what they are made of but after a little digging I found a few posts from people saying they are made of Kanthal. So am I correct in assuming that when I use the the dripper, I should be turning TC off?

As for the wicking, I read that suggestion before. Possibly not enough cotton or even too much. I'm actually doing exactly what you recommended Neaunerball. I'm pulling it through so that it fills the inside of the coil. It's tight but not too tight. I don't think I could get any more in there so I doubt it's too loose.
 

Jim_MDP

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
One thing for sure, Kanthal wire is not for TC mode, unless you'd have a Hohmtech mod.

Good catch. I skimmed right past the RDA details.


people saying they are made of Kanthal. So am I correct in assuming that when I use the the dripper, I should be turning TC off?


Correct. You'll learn quickly about TCR values of different wire material in the TC threads, but basically... Kanthal is still on the bleeding edge of what's possible for TC.
The hOhmTech mod mentioned above is one of the very few (2?) that have shown some success with it. The DNA is not one of them... yet.

Even our Stainless is only a half step better, but there are varying compositions of SS, some better suited than others.

Don't sweat that just yet... Stainless Steel (SS) can be used in Temp Control Mode or straight wattage Power Mode, your choice.

Kanthal wire coils... Power Mode only.
 

Neunerball

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
These are the pre-built coils I'm using. I got this exact pack of 5.

https://www.eciggity.com/comp-wire-by-wotofo/

Currently in my RDA, I'm using the clapton wire. IT doesn't really specify what they are made of but after a little digging I found a few posts from people saying they are made of Kanthal. So am I correct in assuming that when I use the the dripper, I should be turning TC off?

As for the wicking, I read that suggestion before. Possibly not enough cotton or even too much. I'm actually doing exactly what you recommended Neaunerball. I'm pulling it through so that it fills the inside of the coil. It's tight but not too tight. I don't think I could get any more in there so I doubt it's too loose.
I'm not sure, what wire the comp wire by Wotofo is made out of. Therefore, I suggest not to use them in TC mode either.
When the wicking is as @Zamazam described above, it could be the coil(s) themselves. Little air bubbles, when heated expand, venting through the coil, causing the popping. (Same cause when not enough wicking)
 

Jim_MDP

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The Comp Coils may be NiChrome, but I expect they're Kanthal.
I've got a couple tubes of them and they're obviously NOT TC-able.

Until you get some TC wire... off to Power Mode you go Perilous3D. :D
 

Neunerball

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Totally forgot about the resistance fluctuations (jumping up and down, while fireing)! There are two things to look for. One, make sure the screws on the posts are still snug. The 510 doesn't make proper connection, which could be either the 510 on the atomizer, or the 510 connection on the mod. As a regular maintenance, I clean my mods 510 with some isopropyl on a Q-tip. I have had the resistance jumping, due to a dirty 510 on the mod.
In case you're talking about the resistance increasing while firing, that's normal. This behavior is actually utilized in TC, in order to calculate the temperature of the coil(s).
 

VU Sponsors

Top