Voltage Testing

[ralph029]

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this...
I'm at the stage where I'm trying too get more precise with coil building for mechanical hybrid mods. This weekend I decided to test voltages and drop on my V1 and build coils a bit more precisely than just the standard numbers plugged into the ohms law calculator. I used a voltage tester (see pic below) and the first pulse indicated 4.0X (I don't remember the exact hundredth of a volt). The second pulse fried my battery. There is no voltage at the battery. After a 30 minute cool down period I tested the battery with my Fluke and there was no voltage at all. Yes, the battery got tossed
With all this said I assume that the connection on the volt tester is really not the proper 510 connection to test hybrid mods with.
Any recommendations on a good quality tester for testing voltage on hybrid mods? I'm somewhat good enough to build something as well, so I'll take any thoughts along that line of thinking too. Thanks for your help.

 

[HondaDavidson]

That an ohm reader..... some do also test volts tjough....

I use a Fluke DMM for volts testing.....

What batteries are you using? INFO ON BUILD MIGHT ALSO be applicable.

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[ralph029]

That an ohm reader..... some do also test volts tjough....

I use a Fluke DMM for volts testing.....

What batteries are you using? INFO ON BUILD MIGHT ALSO be applicable.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I have no problem using my Fluke to measure but the I would need to fabricate something to hold the set up as I have to use my hands to hold the leads at the moment.
No "set up". I was simply testing the voltage and drop of my LG HB6 through a Vaperz Cloud X1 (I goofed and said V1 above. Sorry for the confusion.)

 

[whiteowl84]

I use a G2. It has a build in DMM equivalent.

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[ralph029]

I use a G2. It has a build in DMM equivalent.

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Like a UEi G2? That would function the same as my Fluke. The question I have is what set up are you using to actuate the swith? Are you just holding the leads by hand on and through the hybrid top cap?

 

[whiteowl84]

A hohmtech G2. Unless you're doing the types of builds I am the specific ohm load isn't super important. What I mean is a normal regulated mod will suffice to give you the rough ohm load and tell you if you have a short. The only time this will be problematic is if you're trying to go as low as possible on a tube and with simple coils that's not very likely. You'll probably have more experience with mechs and how they act before you get a low build.
I've been using mechs for a long time and building exotic coils even longer and I've done it all with no vape specific ohm testing gear and no vape specific tools.
I throw my build on the G2 and hit it with 30w to color and get the hotspots worked out. After the photo shoot if it's suitable for a tube I'll use that and if it's lower than that I'll use my Sith v2.

The key with tubes (and every other mod really) is to build something that can heat fast. If you're having to wait a few seconds for the coil to heat at 0.2ohm you're actually taxing the cell harder than if you were drawing more amperage and getting your hit in under a second.
If you're worried that maybe you're a bit too low, see how the cell reacts to the amperage. Take a few quick pulls and see if the cell is getting warm. In all my time using tubes I've never had a cell actually get hot. Warm after a few chain pulls but never hot.
Until you get some experience just stay around your CDR till you're comfortable with your mod and know that you're safe going a bit lower.
I use LG HG2s every day with a 20a CDR for the 3000mah longevity. If you're seriously worried about exceeding the CDR I'd recommend VTC4s.


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[ralph029]

A hohmtech G2. Unless you're doing the types of builds I am the specific ohm load isn't super important. What I mean is a normal regulated mod will suffice to give you the rough ohm load and tell you if you have a short. The only time this will be problematic is if you're trying to go as low as possible on a tube and with simple coils that's not very likely. You'll probably have more experience with mechs and how they act before you get a low build.
I've been using mechs for a long time and building exotic coils even longer and I've done it all with no vape specific ohm testing gear and no vape specific tools.
I throw my build on the G2 and hit it with 30w to color and get the hotspots worked out. After the photo shoot if it's suitable for a tube I'll use that and if it's lower than that I'll use my Sith v2.

The key with tubes (and every other mod really) is to build something that can heat fast. If you're having to wait a few seconds for the coil to heat at 0.2ohm you're actually taxing the cell harder than if you were drawing more amperage and getting your hit in under a second.
If you're worried that maybe you're a bit too low, see how the cell reacts to the amperage. Take a few quick pulls and see if the cell is getting warm. In all my time using tubes I've never had a cell actually get hot. Warm after a few chain pulls but never hot.
Until you get some experience just stay around your CDR till you're comfortable with your mod and know that you're safe going a bit lower.
I use LG HG2s every day with a 20a CDR for the 3000mah longevity. If you're seriously worried about exceeding the CDR I'd recommend VTC4s.


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Thank you for your thoughts. I am not concerned so much with exceeding any limits. I'm a very safe builder and don't push limits. What I am trying to achieve with the mods and coils are matching ohms to the voltage as closely as I can. I understand that there is probably no real need to do this if I'm staying well within safe operating limits but I want to see what as closely matched coils/resistance offer in the vaping experience. I also pay close attention to the heat capacity of my builds as I tend to favor warm vapor, not too cool, not too hot. Maybe I should change my screen name to Goldilocks

 

[whiteowl84]

What do you mean by matching your ohm load to your voltage? Unless your using something other than a single, parallel or dual series configuration your voltage will be 4.2, 4.2 and 8.4 respectively.
There's no changing that. The ohm load only changes the amperage drawn from the cell(s).

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[ralph029]

What do you mean by matching your ohm load to your voltage? Unless your using something other than a single, parallel or dual series configuration your voltage will be 4.2, 4.2 and 8.4 respectively.
There's no changing that. The ohm load only changes the amperage drawn from the cell(s).

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I understand that but wanted to figure in voltage drop and sag in each device. I know I'm way over thinking this whole thing but I thought it would be worth a look (and taste) to see if there was any discernible difference.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I understand that but wanted to figure in voltage drop and sag in each device. I know I'm way over thinking this whole thing but I thought it would be worth a look (and taste) to see if there was any discernible difference.

There won't actually be any voltage drop if you just connect a mod to a voltage tester- it should be 4.2V for a single tube mech. If it is lower your battery is either at a lower voltage, or something is wrong.
It is only when you add a RDA or tank with a coil that you will see voltage drop- this is voltage under load, also called sag.

I can see on the tester you used the left side must of been what you tested with. I imagine the positive was near flush with the negative, which caused a short on your hybrid mech.

 

[ralph029]

There won't actually be any voltage drop if you just connect a mod to a voltage tester- it should be 4.2V for a single tube mech. If it is lower your battery is either at a lower voltage, or something is wrong.
It is only when you add a RDA or tank with a coil that you will see voltage drop- this is voltage under load, also called sag.

I can see on the tester you used the left side must of been what you tested with. I imagine the positive was near flush with the negative, which caused a short on your hybrid mech.

Second comment first... Yes, nearly flush and I assumed that as well which is why I was looking for another way to do this type of testing. Once I have a little free time, I will have to try to build something to handle these tests.

As for the first comment...
I do get 4.2 volts on the battery but one it's in the mech and the fire button is depressed, the voltage drops. Am I not understanding what I should be building my coils to? (Again, let me say, I know I'm over thinking this.) Shouldn't the coils be built to match the actual output of the set up?

 

[conanthewarrior]

Second comment first... Yes, nearly flush and I assumed that as well which is why I was looking for another way to do this type of testing. Once I have a little free time, I will have to try to build something to handle these tests.

As for the first comment...
I do get 4.2 volts on the battery but one it's in the mech and the fire button is depressed, the voltage drops. Am I not understanding what I should be building my coils to? (Again, let me say, I know I'm over thinking this.) Shouldn't the coils be built to match the actual output of the set up?

I use a multimeter to test voltage under load, as in once a RDA is in place to test for voltage drop. I haven't done this for quite a while though, it was more something I did when I first got into mech mods. All my mech mods read the same voltage without an atomiser attached.

Do you mean you see a drop in voltage without a coil in place? As even my worst clones against my best mechs all gave the voltage of the battery without a load in place. For us the load would be a resistor, which is our coils. After this, there was a noticeable difference between mods.

Yes, the coils should most definitely be built with what voltage is hitting them in mind. The lower the resistance though, the bigger drop in voltage, or sag you will see. I think this is likely what you are thinking of, as this can then vary depending on the mod and battery you are using as well as resistance.

I aim for a build that works well from fresh off the charger, down to when I pull the battery, which is around 3.6V at rest. That is the fun though, at least for me lol.
I tend to like 2.5MM ID, 26G SS316L dual coils at around 0.25 Ohms.

 

[ralph029]

I tend to like 2.5MM ID, 26G SS316L dual coils at around 0.25 Ohms.

Well fancy that. That's pretty much where I have landed myself. I do fluctuate between 2.5's and 3.0's. I do like to play around though and try different things to see how they work side by side. I have two Kennedy's and two X1's that I do side by side comparisons with. It's all part of the fun.