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What am I doing wrong?

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
Hey guys hope everyone is off to a great weekend!

So here is the issue. I am making 6 wrap coils on 24 kanthal. At first the ohms read .31 it fires a few times and then it drops to 0 and then nothing. I have made 4 sets of coils and it's all the same problem. I unscrew the tank from my mod and some times it will fire and then some times not. Currently using a griffin tank and Rx 200.

Please help I'm starting to feel stupid lol
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
It's strange. Sometimes when I screw down the tank to where it normally goes it says atomizer short and sometimes it doesn't
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
you can try and adjust the screw on the bottom of the tank to see if that fixes the issue.
It might not be making good contact.
So after adjust the screw periodically between vape sessions the atomizer short message will pop up and I have to unscrew the tank and re screw it in or adjust the screw below it.

Edit- and the ohms dropped from .3 to .18
 

MyMagicMist

Diamond Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
If your mod, the battery portion, has a spring loaded pin you may consider adjusting it. Some have this, some don't. A screw driver pushed on to the contact will let you know. If it bounces then it may be spring loaded. Adjusting that may help.
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
If your mod, the battery portion, has a spring loaded pin you may consider adjusting it. Some have this, some don't. A screw driver pushed on to the contact will let you know. If it bounces then it may be spring loaded. Adjusting that may help.
I don't believe the Rx 200 has this. Is it possible I screwed a tank to far down and screwed up this mod??
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
So after adjust the screw periodically between vape sessions the atomizer short message will pop up and I have to unscrew the tank and re screw it in or adjust the screw below it.

Edit- and the ohms dropped from .3 to .18
Do you have another tank to try so you can rule out the RX200?
 

suprtrkr

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
The RX200 is famous for having a janky-ass 510 connector. Mine-- I have 2-- do it sometimes too. The issue is the length of the topper 510. I have read lomger than 4.6mm, but I can't swear to that. In any event, too long of a 510 will make the machine lose the atty. Usually, taking it off and reinstalling it fixes it... until the next time. When I was using evil MT#3-- before I banished it to the parts box-- either one of my RXs would lose it several times a day. Having replaced #3 in service with the unusually well behaved MT#2, it hasn't done it once in 6 weeks. It is also possible for a handy person with a drill, a Dremel and a soldering iron to replace the connector with a quality one from FDV or Varitube. There's a thread on it over with the "other guys" if you're interested.
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
Do you have another tank to try so you can rule out the RX200?
2c490616129e753be102a2cb4477903f.jpg


Currently using this Magnus tank and it fires but as you can see it doesn't really sit flush
 

AmandaD

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Apparently some tanks (I recall the TFV4) will void the warranty on the RX200 since they damage the 510! I don't know about the Griffin, but I use both f mine on my RX200 without issue.
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
The RX200 is famous for having a janky-ass 510 connector. Mine-- I have 2-- do it sometimes too. The issue is the length of the topper 510. I have read lomger than 4.6mm, but I can't swear to that. In any event, too long of a 510 will make the machine lose the atty. Usually, taking it off and reinstalling it fixes it... until the next time. When I was using evil MT#3-- before I banished it to the parts box-- either one of my RXs would lose it several times a day. Having replaced #3 in service with the unusually well behaved MT#2, it hasn't done it once in 6 weeks. It is also possible for a handy person with a drill, a Dremel and a soldering iron to replace the connector with a quality one from FDV or Varitube. There's a thread on it over with the "other guys" if you're interested.

Thanks suprtrkr. This makes sense. As good as vaping has gotten having these products mass produced in China I'm sure there is bound to be some QC issues.

If this is normal and somewhat a known problem then it's something I can live with. For a minute there I thought it might be due to my lack of building skills or even worst my carelessness of screwing thing too tight
 

suprtrkr

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
Thanks suprtrkr. This makes sense. As good as vaping has gotten having these products mass produced in China I'm sure there is bound to be some QC issues.

If this is normal and somewhat a known problem then it's something I can live with. For a minute there I thought it might be due to my lack of building skills or even worst my carelessness of screwing thing too tight
Yeah, quite common. I dunno about QC. I suspect it is more to specify a cheap part to hold unit cost down and reduce inventory carrying charges. Just a guess, of course. You might try putting a o-ring or something around the 510 of the topper when you attach it, hold it a bit further off. Of course, it would stand proud of the mod a bit if you do.
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
Yeah, quite common. I dunno about QC. I suspect it is more to specify a cheap part to hold unit cost down and reduce inventory carrying charges. Just a guess, of course. You might try putting a o-ring or something around the 510 of the topper when you attach it, hold it a bit further off. Of course, it would stand proud of the mod a bit if you do.
Great suggestion. The thing that gets me is that it was working like a charm 2 days a go and now this. Oh well as the French say "c'est la vie"
 

suprtrkr

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
Any ideas what may have caused the ohms to drop from .3 to .18?
Not off the bat. Were both firing? When I see resistance suddenly double, I think "broken coil leg." Cutting it in half makes me wonder if it suddenly made contact.
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
Not off the bat. Were both firing? When I see resistance suddenly double, I think "broken coil leg." Cutting it in half makes me wonder if it suddenly made contact.
Interesting. I'm so new to this build thing there is probably tons of stuff I'm doing wrong.
 

Thejkaz

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The rx200 uses a rubber grommet 510 just like the istick 100w. Otherwise really is a piss poor design. You should re-flash it if it is acting funny. Mine will get a USB error although nothing is plugged in and will not fire unless I plug in a cord even if the other end is plugged into nothing. I was getting other errors too. To fix it I flashed back to 1.8 then to 3.0 and have had no errors since. Running twisted messes with dual fused claptons, doesn't sit flush either.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
The rx200 uses a rubber grommet 510 just like the istick 100w. Otherwise really is a piss poor design. You should re-flash it if it is acting funny. Mine will get a USB error although nothing is plugged in and will not fire unless I plug in a cord even if the other end is plugged into nothing. I was getting other errors too. To fix it I flashed back to 1.8 then to 3.0 and have had no errors since. Running twisted messes with dual fused claptons, doesn't sit flush either.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Thanks for the tip Thejkaz. I have not updated firmware yet so this might be a good idea.

You think this will help with the unite not reading the atomizer?
 

Thejkaz

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
It might I've had several attys on mine but like others said be sure to re-tighten the screws after a coil burn and again after a few hits. From experience they do get loose

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
It might I've had several attys on mine but like others said be sure to re-tighten the screws after a coil burn and again after a few hits. From experience they do get loose

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Got it. Will do
 
Also something that might not have been mentioned yet but maybe tour coils aren't big enough, check that they both sith within the build deck otherwise it could be shorting on the chimney stock

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
 

HaileStorm

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Hey guys hope everyone is off to a great weekend!

So here is the issue. I am making 6 wrap coils on 24 kanthal. At first the ohms read .31 it fires a few times and then it drops to 0 and then nothing. I have made 4 sets of coils and it's all the same problem. I unscrew the tank from my mod and some times it will fire and then some times not. Currently using a griffin tank and Rx 200.

Please help I'm starting to feel stupid lol
Great suggestions on this thread. Like you, I'm not as experienced as the others here in terms of building.

Another thing to make sure of is that none of your builds make cintact with the chimney.

I kinda got better at building after having the Moonshot. It does take patience and persistence.

Try a smaller coil diameter. 2.5mm should be on the safe side when building on the griffin, it shouldn't touch the chimney with that size.
 

JERUS

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Hey guys hope everyone is off to a great weekend!

So here is the issue. I am making 6 wrap coils on 24 kanthal. At first the ohms read .31 it fires a few times and then it drops to 0 and then nothing. I have made 4 sets of coils and it's all the same problem. I unscrew the tank from my mod and some times it will fire and then some times not. Currently using a griffin tank and Rx 200.

Please help I'm starting to feel stupid lol
I had a very similar issue, If I left the mod for a few minutes then came back to it, sometimes it'd read empty on the batteries and nothing on the resistance.

If I fired the thing again right after it'd work perfectly. So it was basically not taking the readings initially upon activation after the screen went to sleep... however it didn't do this every time. Some nights it'd be 1/4, others (like when I was trying to video it!) it'd be 1/20. Anyways I contacted the company I bought it from got a return thing and I'm exchanging it. They didn't seem to know anything about it, I tried downgrading and reupgrading software and no luck, either way I have a new one on the way.
 

boogiebot

Member For 4 Years
I had a very similar issue, If I left the mod for a few minutes then came back to it, sometimes it'd read empty on the batteries and nothing on the resistance.

If I fired the thing again right after it'd work perfectly. So it was basically not taking the readings initially upon activation after the screen went to sleep... however it didn't do this every time. Some nights it'd be 1/4, others (like when I was trying to video it!) it'd be 1/20. Anyways I contacted the company I bought it from got a return thing and I'm exchanging it. They didn't seem to know anything about it, I tried downgrading and reupgrading software and no luck, either way I have a new one on the way.
Jerus thanks for taking the time to make the clip and sharing it with us! Hopefully this helps other members and even people around the world with the similar problem.

It's still some what hit or miss for me with this issue. Works more times than not so I'm keeping my fingers crossed
 

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