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What do I need to read and learn to get the most out of my mods?
- Thread starter DSvaper86
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Rabbit Slayer
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How to build a time machine would be a good start, then you can go back and ask your questions before getting a mech mod
why.... mech mods are great.....and it's not rocket science learning how to use one...
ok since noone is offering you much advice I will try
hopefully if i say anything wrong someone will correct me
first off
there are mech mods and regulated mods
you have a mech
now most mech mods have no saftey features at all. unlike regulated mods which have many built into the chipset
SO with your mod you need to know what you are doing so it dont go kablooey.
what do you need to know
1. you batteries are possibly the most important thing in the setup. You said you dont know if they are authentic. well guess what GO GET SOME AUTHENTIC ONES THEN. rtdvapors or liionwholesale are 2 HIGHLY TRUSTED VENDORS
why is this such a big deal
well they are your power source
and there are fakes out there and rewraps out there that out right LIE on the label. YOu think it can supply 20 amps and all it can do is supply 10 amps safely
so when you build your coils for something that may need 15 amps, you might blow you hand off using fake over rated batteries
25rs are great batteries but not the go to for mechs from what I have read
i dont own a mech but I do know I have read many experienced people using 25rs in a mech
the main brands of batteries to look for are samsung sony and lg
do not buy efest trustfire or anything with fire in its name - the are known to misrepresent the actual values of the batteries they sell.
NExt you need ohms law. Im no expert in it...but I am smart enough to know how to use an ohms law calculator like this one http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
so assuming you use genuine 25rs tehy have a max amp of 20 for safe continuous discharge
so lets use that calculator
you punch in your resistance and lock it at .3 ohms
at that battery's max voltage when fully charged it puts out ABOUT 4.2 v so plug that value in
that means you will need 14 amps and it will fire at 58.8watts
so that is safe since 14 amps is below you 20amp discharge for the battery
but let keep playing
change the volts to 3.7 which is the nominal discharge for the battery
now you are only pully 12.33 amps still safe for a 25r
but only putting out 45.63 watts
now if you dont know
your voltage in a battery keeps dropping as you discharge it
so a half charged battery is going to give you less watts then a fully charged battery
lets look further
change the resistance to a .1 coil
and set the volts back to 4.2
well now you are going to push out 176.4 watts
and 42amps
ok warning sign
you battery can only safely handle 20 amps
so a .1 build can make it blow your hand off
starting to get the idea of what you need to learn to be safe?????????
oh and lets look at this again
lets say you bought some battery that says its 40amp
first off BULLSHIT their are no 40 amp batteries
those normally will be safely 15-20 amps
so lets say its only 15 amps
and you go thinking its a 40amp battery
and put a .15 ohm coil on that battery
well using .15 ohms and 4.2 v
you need 28 amps
and that gives you 117.6 watts
you think hey its a 40amp battery Im good
NOPE
cuz it says 40amps but is really 15 amps
and you can go boom
so getting genuine real batteries preferably samsung sony or lg for a trusted source like the ones i mentioned is CRITICAL
ok thats all i got hopefully you have somewhere to go and others may jump in
hopefully if i say anything wrong someone will correct me
first off
there are mech mods and regulated mods
you have a mech
now most mech mods have no saftey features at all. unlike regulated mods which have many built into the chipset
SO with your mod you need to know what you are doing so it dont go kablooey.
what do you need to know
1. you batteries are possibly the most important thing in the setup. You said you dont know if they are authentic. well guess what GO GET SOME AUTHENTIC ONES THEN. rtdvapors or liionwholesale are 2 HIGHLY TRUSTED VENDORS
why is this such a big deal
well they are your power source
and there are fakes out there and rewraps out there that out right LIE on the label. YOu think it can supply 20 amps and all it can do is supply 10 amps safely
so when you build your coils for something that may need 15 amps, you might blow you hand off using fake over rated batteries
25rs are great batteries but not the go to for mechs from what I have read
i dont own a mech but I do know I have read many experienced people using 25rs in a mech
the main brands of batteries to look for are samsung sony and lg
do not buy efest trustfire or anything with fire in its name - the are known to misrepresent the actual values of the batteries they sell.
NExt you need ohms law. Im no expert in it...but I am smart enough to know how to use an ohms law calculator like this one http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
so assuming you use genuine 25rs tehy have a max amp of 20 for safe continuous discharge
so lets use that calculator
you punch in your resistance and lock it at .3 ohms
at that battery's max voltage when fully charged it puts out ABOUT 4.2 v so plug that value in
that means you will need 14 amps and it will fire at 58.8watts
so that is safe since 14 amps is below you 20amp discharge for the battery
but let keep playing
change the volts to 3.7 which is the nominal discharge for the battery
now you are only pully 12.33 amps still safe for a 25r
but only putting out 45.63 watts
now if you dont know
your voltage in a battery keeps dropping as you discharge it
so a half charged battery is going to give you less watts then a fully charged battery
lets look further
change the resistance to a .1 coil
and set the volts back to 4.2
well now you are going to push out 176.4 watts
and 42amps
ok warning sign
you battery can only safely handle 20 amps
so a .1 build can make it blow your hand off
starting to get the idea of what you need to learn to be safe?????????
oh and lets look at this again
lets say you bought some battery that says its 40amp
first off BULLSHIT their are no 40 amp batteries
those normally will be safely 15-20 amps
so lets say its only 15 amps
and you go thinking its a 40amp battery
and put a .15 ohm coil on that battery
well using .15 ohms and 4.2 v
you need 28 amps
and that gives you 117.6 watts
you think hey its a 40amp battery Im good
NOPE
cuz it says 40amps but is really 15 amps
and you can go boom
so getting genuine real batteries preferably samsung sony or lg for a trusted source like the ones i mentioned is CRITICAL
ok thats all i got hopefully you have somewhere to go and others may jump in
For safety, the most important thing that needs to be authentic are the batteries.
Get new batteries that are authentic for sure and while you're at it get proper 30A batteries like LG HB6 (or similar) for some peace of mind and the ability to build lower.
Learn all about ohm's law, get an ohm meter and always check your coils before using them.
yeah thats another good point
since all you have is a mech mod
you must have an ohm meter MUST MUST MUST MUST
and preferably one like a 521 tab that lets you dry fire your coils on it instead of your mech mod
WHY?
theres tons of coil calculators online and my buddy has been doing this for months...i dont need no stinking ohm meter!!!!!
Yeah well first off online calculators are estimates at best. There are many factors like the leg length the spacing of the coil the actual rda itself, the mod itself that can and do change resistance. SO just because it says that coil you made SHOULD be .19 ohms dont mean it is exactly .19
it could be .21, .2, .17 etc etc. ANd after learning enough about ohms law you realized that a .21 coil is the lwest you can build safely for your battery and you THINK you built a .21 ohm coil but after it is installed on the rda and you dry fire it and adjust it etc etc it now is really only .17. oops you go boom!
also when dry firing to get out hot spots and so forth resistance can change..if your building low you can go boom dry firing a coil on a mech mod
also when you put the cap on you might cause a short which usually drops ohms and how the hell you going to know that with your mech mod. You will if you use an ohm meter to double check it before firing it on you mech mod
another good example is i bought what i thought was fused clapton wire form a reputable source. they messed up and sent the wrong wire. my inexperienced ass didnt know but my regulated mods knew and told me that the ohms were and i figured out form the ohm reaidngs on my regulate dmods that the wire i had wasnt what i thought. Your mech mod cant do that. thats another reaosn to have a good ohm meter
since all you have is a mech mod
you must have an ohm meter MUST MUST MUST MUST
and preferably one like a 521 tab that lets you dry fire your coils on it instead of your mech mod
WHY?
theres tons of coil calculators online and my buddy has been doing this for months...i dont need no stinking ohm meter!!!!!
Yeah well first off online calculators are estimates at best. There are many factors like the leg length the spacing of the coil the actual rda itself, the mod itself that can and do change resistance. SO just because it says that coil you made SHOULD be .19 ohms dont mean it is exactly .19
it could be .21, .2, .17 etc etc. ANd after learning enough about ohms law you realized that a .21 coil is the lwest you can build safely for your battery and you THINK you built a .21 ohm coil but after it is installed on the rda and you dry fire it and adjust it etc etc it now is really only .17. oops you go boom!
also when dry firing to get out hot spots and so forth resistance can change..if your building low you can go boom dry firing a coil on a mech mod
also when you put the cap on you might cause a short which usually drops ohms and how the hell you going to know that with your mech mod. You will if you use an ohm meter to double check it before firing it on you mech mod
another good example is i bought what i thought was fused clapton wire form a reputable source. they messed up and sent the wrong wire. my inexperienced ass didnt know but my regulated mods knew and told me that the ohms were and i figured out form the ohm reaidngs on my regulate dmods that the wire i had wasnt what i thought. Your mech mod cant do that. thats another reaosn to have a good ohm meter
Rabbit Slayer
Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
The guy doesn't know if his batteries are genuine, the first thing you should learn is battery safety
instead of bashing this guy and pointing out all he dont know...how about helping the guy with links to the info he should know and explanations. You all didnt know this stuff when you started..well some did cuz they deal with electronics and so forth, but most people do not know this stuff. cut the guy some slack...and help... i mean he was smart enough to ask for help
...big deal none of this crap is very esoteric, it's easy to learn...with the internet you can learn enough in 2 hours to vape safely on a mech mod.
go to a reputable vaping supplier or B&M get some batteries, get some wire get an ohm meter watch some videos...and start building...just don't build below .5 while your learning the finer points..and don't use a hybrid till you understand how they can short.
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You don't even have to understand the principles of electricity or ohm's law, all you need is an ohm's law calculator
yeah this is true.....all a beginner needs to realize is that the lower they build their set ups the closer they are pushing the saftey envelope on what their batteries and even their mod can handle...so I wouldn't recommend building low sub ohms until you have mastered building itself.....You don't even have to understand the principles of electricity or ohm's law, all you need is an ohm's law calculator
You measure the resistance without understanding resistance.
You know that your battery is 4.2V max without understanding electric charge or electric potential energy.
You know what's your battery's amp rating, without understanding electric current.
Put the voltage and resistance in the calculator and see that it doesn't surpass or reach the amp rating.
There you're a genius
You know that your battery is 4.2V max without understanding electric charge or electric potential energy.
You know what's your battery's amp rating, without understanding electric current.
Put the voltage and resistance in the calculator and see that it doesn't surpass or reach the amp rating.
There you're a genius
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Take your time. These guys over here have given you the necessary safety advice. Lotsa really good info up in here. Definitely stick with that. Don't focus too much on performance. Aim to build things that simply work and are safe until it becomes intuition.
From there, you can start by just reading wherever you see people discussing builds. Occasionally some nuggets about the physics and stuff pop up. Youtube videos are good if you're a visual learner. That's how most people muster their first. Check out coil threads for inspiration. Sometimes just seeing what other people are doing can give you valuable insights into what you are doing.
Electricity is only one side of the equation. The other end is how much heat energy that translates to, what/how it traverses, how the unique combos of airflow and wicking disperse it... ...there are a ton of considerations to be made in the physics department. You have to first understand things on the power end so that you can learn how to balance it to mass, which has to be balanced to all of these interacting forces that are competing to do all sorts of different things.
It can get really complex if you want it to. But really, what we're doing is very simple. It doesn't get more simple than a mech and an RDA. Honestly, past the bare essentials you can read all that you want, but in order for any of it to stick, you have to experiment. Just build. Do it a bunch. Start brainstorming and test what you think you know regularly.
Trial and error will take you far. Look for problems and try to solve them
From there, you can start by just reading wherever you see people discussing builds. Occasionally some nuggets about the physics and stuff pop up. Youtube videos are good if you're a visual learner. That's how most people muster their first. Check out coil threads for inspiration. Sometimes just seeing what other people are doing can give you valuable insights into what you are doing.
Electricity is only one side of the equation. The other end is how much heat energy that translates to, what/how it traverses, how the unique combos of airflow and wicking disperse it... ...there are a ton of considerations to be made in the physics department. You have to first understand things on the power end so that you can learn how to balance it to mass, which has to be balanced to all of these interacting forces that are competing to do all sorts of different things.
It can get really complex if you want it to. But really, what we're doing is very simple. It doesn't get more simple than a mech and an RDA. Honestly, past the bare essentials you can read all that you want, but in order for any of it to stick, you have to experiment. Just build. Do it a bunch. Start brainstorming and test what you think you know regularly.
Trial and error will take you far. Look for problems and try to solve them
Ok, I've read everything here and t there is some really good advice. I've been building a few months and recently got my first mech. I use 25r batteries and use stainless steel wire ( be careful as ss has naturally low resistance ), but that is beside the point. I started by getting the UD Wire Box, you can Google it, for less than $20. It is a good starter wire as it has multiple types of wire in it so you can find the type of wire you like and then get a bigger quantity of that type of wire later. It even had some twisted and clapton wire in it.
Next, if you have and android phone, I got an app called Vape Tool. It has a good coil calculator, Ohm's Law calculator, and even a database of batteries and their ratings.
As for an ohm meter, I've found the Greekvape or Coilmaster 521 Tab are good choices to get. The both allow you to check the resistance of your coils and dry fire them as well. Make sure not to do this with cotton in the coils. I know that sounds like common sense, but I've seen people do it, so thought I would just put it out there.
Last ingredient is tools. I got the UD coil till kit. Now they have a newer version that has the Tab plus all the tools you will need for building all in one go.
Most importantly, but safe, but HAVE FUN!! I love building. I still haven't build anything elaborate, but still some great vapes and that's what matters. Welcome to building and to VU. Look around, there is a TON of information here. If you have questions, just ask. The only stupid questions is the one never asked. I would rather answer a "stupid question" ( yes, I used quotes), than see anyone hurt because they didn't want to bother anyone.
I hope that helps even a little. I hope you enjoy building as much as I do.
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
Next, if you have and android phone, I got an app called Vape Tool. It has a good coil calculator, Ohm's Law calculator, and even a database of batteries and their ratings.
As for an ohm meter, I've found the Greekvape or Coilmaster 521 Tab are good choices to get. The both allow you to check the resistance of your coils and dry fire them as well. Make sure not to do this with cotton in the coils. I know that sounds like common sense, but I've seen people do it, so thought I would just put it out there.
Last ingredient is tools. I got the UD coil till kit. Now they have a newer version that has the Tab plus all the tools you will need for building all in one go.
Most importantly, but safe, but HAVE FUN!! I love building. I still haven't build anything elaborate, but still some great vapes and that's what matters. Welcome to building and to VU. Look around, there is a TON of information here. If you have questions, just ask. The only stupid questions is the one never asked. I would rather answer a "stupid question" ( yes, I used quotes), than see anyone hurt because they didn't want to bother anyone.
I hope that helps even a little. I hope you enjoy building as much as I do.
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
No ohm meter to test for a short, not sure on batteries, and possibly hybrid.
STOP, DO NOT USE! I repeat
Stop where you are at, do not pass go, do not use, do not collect 200 bucks.
OHM meter or do not use it. No online guess o meter, your buddy or a magic genie is going to tell you if or not the thing is shorting.
Batteries need to be legit. illumsupply, liionwholesale, 101 vapes among others. IF not from those place do not pass go etc.
I do not give a mighty shit if your broken flashlight is authentic or the atty they mean fuck all compared to an authentic none rewrap battery.
STOP, DO NOT USE! I repeat
Stop where you are at, do not pass go, do not use, do not collect 200 bucks.
OHM meter or do not use it. No online guess o meter, your buddy or a magic genie is going to tell you if or not the thing is shorting.
Batteries need to be legit. illumsupply, liionwholesale, 101 vapes among others. IF not from those place do not pass go etc.
I do not give a mighty shit if your broken flashlight is authentic or the atty they mean fuck all compared to an authentic none rewrap battery.
Nickel should NEVER EVER be used with a mech!
It's resistance is way too low and it's way too toxic for non TC.
Personally I wouldn't use nickel in any application TC or Non TC.
Kanthal is a good choice, just a little advice though. 22g is a bit rough to work with. I personally wouldn't go larger than 24g. Actually 26g is what I started on. It is a good starter wire gauge. It is a bit more pliable and easier to work with.
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.