Didn't know that you could do that on the Nautilus also. how often do I have to take som juice on the coil? Everyday? or just on time for every coil I use?
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Thanks. I was afraid that I would mess it up somehow. Is this normal to do for all tanks? To add juice were the coil is?
madmonkey
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No, not all tanks...and you don't have to do it, but it will cut your wait time down from 15-20 minutes the first time you use a new coil to just a couple by doing it that way and pretty much make sure you don't burn the wicking material. The reason is because of the way the coils are designed and the fact you've got cotton as part of the wicking for those coils. Cotton instantly burns if it's fired dry and ruins the coil. You're not going to screw anything up, it's really actually quite simple, just without never looking at it in your hands it sounds complicated. Trust me, it's really easy and simple to do.
Nautilus and Atlantis tank coil designs are based off of a cartomizer....it's basically a little cartomizer designed just for those tanks....so just like a cartomizer you have to drip a little juice in it the first time to prime it and make everything happy
Nautilus and Atlantis tank coil designs are based off of a cartomizer....it's basically a little cartomizer designed just for those tanks....so just like a cartomizer you have to drip a little juice in it the first time to prime it and make everything happy
Thanks! I think I have all the information I need. Will buy the iStick 50 watt, and buy either the Nautilus or the subtank. Depends on how much money I want to use. The subtank was for around 50 dollars and the Nautilus is around 30 dollars. And the Nautilus is still pretty good, so I think I will start with that one, and move over to the subtank after a time.No, not all tanks...and you don't have to do it, but it will cut your wait time down from 15-20 minutes the first time you use a new coil to just a couple by doing it that way and pretty much make sure you don't burn the wicking material. The reason is because of the way the coils are designed and the fact you've got cotton as part of the wicking for those coils. Cotton instantly burns if it's fired dry and ruins the coil. You're not going to screw anything up, it's really actually quite simple, just without never looking at it in your hands it sounds complicated. Trust me, it's really easy and simple to do.
Nautilus and Atlantis tank coil designs are based off of a cartomizer....it's basically a little cartomizer designed just for those tanks....so just like a cartomizer you have to drip a little juice in it the first time to prime it and make everything happy
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Glad I could help...just remember, it's a good idea to prime the subtank coils as well, basically anything that's got cotton involved needs a little juice dripped directly onto the wick of the coils before it's fired the first time. Anything else we're here to help
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I know there are some cloud chasers here, however I think that the majority of us just enjoy a good vaping experience whatever the way each person decides to do so. Welcome aboard, and keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!Glad I could help...just remember, it's a good idea to prime the subtank coils as well, basically anything that's got cotton involved needs a little juice dripped directly onto the wick of the coils before it's fired the first time. Anything else we're here to help
Yes, I'm not into for the cloud chasing, just to enjoy vaping and stay away from smoking. But the device I have now, doesn't perform clouds at all. just needed someting better.
One more thing. I found a iStick 50 watt for like 37 dollars. It's almost to good to be true. Can you see if this is fake or something?Glad I could help...just remember, it's a good idea to prime the subtank coils as well, basically anything that's got cotton involved needs a little juice dripped directly onto the wick of the coils before it's fired the first time. Anything else we're here to help
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3032/10012619/2249105
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Well, That specific link you have there is for the one that comes with the wall plug for mainland Europe so unless you live in Germany or something you would want the next one down in the scroll list that says US next to it
That aside....you have discovered Fasttech my friend. Yes, that is a real Istick and yes it is that cheap....however....Fasttech is based and ships out of China and depending on where you live in the US it could take 3 to 5 weeks to get to you, longer if it get's held up in customs for whatever reason. That's part of the reason why it's so cheap is because it's being sold by a Chinese vendor...you pay more to buy from the US but it will get to you in a matter of days instead of weeks.
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Well, If I were you I would go get an Aspire Atlantis or Kanger Subtank and get a regulated box mod like an IPV mini 2 or even a K Box and you will get great vapor production and not have to rebuild. However these devices give you some growing room over the coming months of vaping so if you do decide to get into rebuilding in the future you can if you want to.
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I have to disagree about the Kbox...a buddy of mine bought one and I played with it for a bit...it's a basic mod with limited function that will get the job done but it feels like and I think it's built kinda cheap as reflected by the price...one drop and it was done. Get something that's at least a little durable.
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@madmonkey good point! I have an IPV Mini 2 70watt that I really enjoy. I use mech mods more times than not but it is nice to have on deck for sub tanks.
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@Faceless Vapes .....
Oh I understand and agree....I use mainly mechs at home...I've got seven mechs, a NES DNA 30, and a Cana 30 all with drippers sitting next to me, a Mini Nemi with a Kayfun 2.1 mini all sitting next to me on my desk But I use my Vaporshark DNA 30 or rDNA 40 for my about town setups with a Kayfun or subtank....It's @Kiicki 's first real set up and he's trying to keep a budget, that's why we recommended the Istick....If money weren't a factor I'd say go all out and get a Segeli 150 and be set for life
Oh I understand and agree....I use mainly mechs at home...I've got seven mechs, a NES DNA 30, and a Cana 30 all with drippers sitting next to me, a Mini Nemi with a Kayfun 2.1 mini all sitting next to me on my desk
But I use my Vaporshark DNA 30 or rDNA 40 for my about town setups with a Kayfun or subtank....It's @Kiicki 's first real set up and he's trying to keep a budget, that's why we recommended the Istick....If money weren't a factor I'd say go all out and get a Segeli 150 and be set for life
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@madmonkey HAHA your desk sounds like mine!~
@Kiicki I recommend staying away from FastTech ... go here and look at the specials. http://www.vapesupersaver.com/specials/
Down at the bottom of the page you can get package deals for the iStick 50 with a SubTank Mini (4.5ml) OR the iStick 50 with the SubTank Plus (7ml) for the same price of $74.99. They are also offering the iStick 50 with the SubTank Nano for $69.99 (3ml, if you want a small tank for your parents). That means it costs about $37.50 fore the SubTank AND $37.50 for the iStick 50. You aren't going to find them for much cheaper anywhere else. They also includes free shipping!
If you are going to do it, you probably should hurry though, they are running out of the iSticks, they only have 4 or 5 left of each color. The will sell out FAST at this price!
I chose Europe since I live in Norway. They also had a US plug. Thanks for verifying!Well, That specific link you have there is for the one that comes with the wall plug for mainland Europe so unless you live in Germany or something you would want the next one down in the scroll list that says US next to it
That aside....you have discovered Fasttech my friend. Yes, that is a real Istick and yes it is that cheap....however....Fasttech is based and ships out of China and depending on where you live in the US it could take 3 to 5 weeks to get to you, longer if it get's held up in customs for whatever reason. That's part of the reason why it's so cheap is because it's being sold by a Chinese vendor...you pay more to buy from the US but it will get to you in a matter of days instead of weeks.
W
Won't a iStick 50 watt do the job? i found the subtank for a decent price, so I will probably go for that one now.
@Faceless Vapes .....
Oh I understand and agree....I use mainly mechs at home...I've got seven mechs, a NES DNA 30, and a Cana 30 all with drippers sitting next to me, a Mini Nemi with a Kayfun 2.1 mini all sitting next to me on my desk
Thanks! Seem good. I'm goinf for the mini tank. the original one is just to big for me
@Kiicki Yes, an iStick 50 will do the job just fine. and maybe even better for a new vaper than the IPV Mini 2. You will likely not need 70 watts for a long time (if ever), and your parents probably won't ever need it.
I just saw this. I don't know if the vendor I recommended will ship to Norway, you should PM them and ask. They are on here under the name @VapeSuperSaver ... very friendly and responsive. Maybe they will see this and chime in.
US only for now. It could change in the future though! I hate seeing overseas vapers without choices.
@Kiicki sorry, I wish it were better news. I don't know of any vendors that can come close to these prices AND ship overseas, but I haven't looked into it either, since I live in the US.
Have you looked into these products in the EU? It may be quicker and easier than trying to find someone in the US that will ship to you. I wish I had some better advice. I still strongly recommend against FastTech if you can avoid it, but they may be one of your only options.
Have you looked into these products in the EU? It may be quicker and easier than trying to find someone in the US that will ship to you. I wish I had some better advice. I still strongly recommend against FastTech if you can avoid it, but they may be one of your only options.
It will be okay. A mod isn't something you buy everyday. As long it last for a while, the price shouldn't be a problem.
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I have the Nautilus. Great flavor, decent vapor, but very tight draw. I also have the Ego one. Great device, handy, stealthy, but not something I'm going to have as my only device because of tank and battery capacity. I also have the Kanger subtank, nano, and mini. I think the mini is great all around. You can build your own coils easily or buy the prebuilt. Whatever you buy, anything is better than using cancer sticks!!
That's true. My first idea was to buy the Ego one, but the tank looks pretty small, and you cannot tell how much there is left. Or it is really hard to see.
The Ego one would almost cost the same as a iStick 50 watt and a Subtank mini, so much better to go with a iStick and a Subtank.
I've heard people making the coils. How and why? Why not just buy them? Where could I find how you do that?
The coils are relatively expensive. Making a coil yourself turns it from dollars to pennies. Some prefer more control of their coil / wick materials.
Reading this entire thread I thought I would clarify some of the answers.
A 50 watt Istick can run at 6-7 watts and move up to 50.
I have one and most of the tanks listed above. Start low and quit before you burn your wick / enjoy max flavor. You can lock the device so it doesn't crank up to 50 in your pocket or lying down on the buttons.
You can 'prime' most wicks by drawing on your tank unpowered. The subs are cotton wicked and a drop directly on is only needed for a brand new coil. It will be submerged the entire time. When you get low on liquid you can twirl or roll the remaining juice around the bottom but never get the last drop.
Finally, as someone who has evolved from every device from a cigalike to drippers, I still am using the istick and kanger subs.
But once you hit this level it is hard to get satisfied on a lower device.
I may not be addicted to vaping nicotine but most likely am and once you hit the peak of vaping the baby steps just don't do it for you. Be forewarned!
Reading this entire thread I thought I would clarify some of the answers.
A 50 watt Istick can run at 6-7 watts and move up to 50.
I have one and most of the tanks listed above. Start low and quit before you burn your wick / enjoy max flavor. You can lock the device so it doesn't crank up to 50 in your pocket or lying down on the buttons.
You can 'prime' most wicks by drawing on your tank unpowered. The subs are cotton wicked and a drop directly on is only needed for a brand new coil. It will be submerged the entire time. When you get low on liquid you can twirl or roll the remaining juice around the bottom but never get the last drop.
Finally, as someone who has evolved from every device from a cigalike to drippers, I still am using the istick and kanger subs.
But once you hit this level it is hard to get satisfied on a lower device.
I may not be addicted to vaping nicotine but most likely am and once you hit the peak of vaping the baby steps just don't do it for you. Be forewarned!
How often do I need to change the coil? I've seen that a 5 coils is around 10 dollars. Do I have to change it every week or even more often then that?
How can I make my own coil? Could you send me a link or something on how to do it, and what I need?
@Kiicki you will probably need to change your coil every 1-2 weeks, but it is going to depend on a lot of factors, like what tank you get, what kind of juice you vape, how often you vape, what your device settings are, etc... there are too many variables to accurately predict how long a coil will last. That is something you will figure out as you go along.
For just starting out, you should get a couple of extra packs of coils when you buy your mod, that will give you 10-12 coils (2x 5 packs, plus 2 with the tank usually), which should be enough to start getting a feel for how long they last. If you get 2 weeks per coil, and have one tank, then 12 coils should last 24 weeks, almost half a year for only a little bit of money. If you can afford to buy the coils, that will always be easiest and most convenient. Your mileage may vary with coil life, when I was using tanks with commercial coils, I got 3-4 weeks out of some, but only 2-3 days out of others.
Also, you have to buy some coils, at least in the beginning, because you need the "shell" to put your own coils in. You will need some used coils to rebuild, so save them when you replace them, don't throw them away. You can also try "cleaning" the coils, but it may not work. The best way I have found to clean them is to soak them in Pure Grain Alcohol over night, then rinse them under running hot water until the water is clear, then let them dry for about 24 hours. If you try this, then they will need to be primed again before you use them.
The process for rebuilding a commercial coil is different for each coil design. some are easier than others, but all will require practice and patience until you get the hang of it. The easiest way to find the information is to search the internet for the specific instructions for your tank model. There is a ton of info available for almost every mass produced tank on the market.
Thanks, my plan is to buy like 10-20 coils. After a while when they're all used, I will rebuild them all and then use them again. I saw a video on youtube were RIP triggers did this. If a coil last a wekk it shouldn't be a problem, but if it lasts for 2-3 days, and 5 coils costs 10-15 dollars, that could be expensive in the long run. Plus the juice i would need to buy.
That sounds like a good plan ... Kanthal and wicking are much cheaper than pre-made coils, for the cost of the first 20 coils, you can probably get enough supplies to rebuild them for a couple years. I did this with my original Kanger Protanks, but when all my vape gear was stolen I just got rebuildable tanks (Russians and Kayfuns) to replace them. If my stuff hadn't been stolen, I would probably still be doing it.
... Kanthal and wicking are much cheaper than pre-made coils, for the cost of the first 20 coils, you can probably get enough supplies to rebuild them for a couple years. I did this with my original Kanger Protanks, but when all my vape gear was stolen I just got rebuildable tanks (Russians and Kayfuns) to replace them. If my stuff hadn't been stolen, I would probably still be doing it.
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DevAuto is spot on regarding the coils. With a Kanger mini you can use the pre-made coils, could be cost prohibitive for some. Or, you can rebuild the pre-made coils pretty easily - see You tube for how. Or, with the Mini you can use their RBA insert (Rebuildable atomizer that comes with it) to build your own coils and use wicks or organic cotton. Also plenty of You tube vids on these. After an initial investment of $10 - $20 you could be self sufficient for life wiith rebuilds or you own construction. I started with pre-mades, then rebuilts, then building my own. The Kangertech mini and a few others give you the options. Many do not. Watch the vids if you want further info. Not everyone wants to get down and dirty with coils but if you want to save some bucks or like the results of your own work, go for it.
Good luck!
Good luck!
This also will apply to his parents. I am 64 years old and I keep updating my vaping equipment. I use 3mg nic juice and getting ready to go to 0 mg nic. Love the Flavors.
@Kiicki I just saw this and immediately thought of you. I have never bought anything from GearBest, but they might ship to Norway ... check out their sales and prices, looks pretty good, some clone stuff and some authentic stuff ... http://www.gearbest.com/promotion-e...utm_medium=**********&utm_campaign=**********
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Sorry I disappeared, gotta sleep and do the daily errands sometime
Anyways...that is a good plan...the reason being is coil insulators wear out overtime. You can rebuild each coil 2-4 times on average and if you use Kanthal instead of Nicrome the coils will usually last longer than the original stock build. I would youtube how to rebuild the factory coils over using the RBA deck that comes with it in my humble opinion....seems like the juice feeds better to the OCC heads than the little slits in the RBA deck. And I haven't used mine personally, but I went to show a friend of mine I recently got into vaping how to use his and one of the screw holes was threaded and one of the screws was the wrong size...luckily the spare screw it came with was right but since the hole for it was threaded wrong it made the thing useless...it's not a very good design deck wise....it's my opinion only, but I think if you get all the coil heads you plan on and learn how to rebuild them you will be set for a long time.Another thing you have to remember is that those OCC coil heads are mass produced by the millions in a factory...the quality of them is far better than anything else Kanger has made in a long time, hands down...but there is always a chance for a bad one to make it's way into the mix...if you get a coil and it seems like it's no good after a couple days it was just a bad head....not all of them are like that....my first OCC coil I used in my subtank mini lasted over a month and I am still on my second and I've had it for a couple months now so you should be set for a good long while
Thanks, but how do I know when I need to change the coil? Is the taste bad or something when the coil is bad?Sorry I disappeared, gotta sleep and do the daily errands sometime
Another thing you have to remember is that those OCC coil heads are mass produced by the millions in a factory...the quality of them is far better than anything else Kanger has made in a long time, hands down...but there is always a chance for a bad one to make it's way into the mix...if you get a coil and it seems like it's no good after a couple days it was just a bad head....not all of them are like that....my first OCC coil I used in my subtank mini lasted over a month and I am still on my second and I've had it for a couple months now so you should be set for a good long while
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Yeah...as the coil gets close to the end of it's life the wick will start clogging and not feeding as well and the coil will start tasting burn or the flavor will not be as good. You'll know...it's one of those things that's hard to explain but once it happens you'll never forget
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We can answer questions all day long and all night long and all day again...but reading about something only explains it so much...part of vaping is actually vaping and experiencing all the good and the burnt out of it I am more than happy to help you as best as I can with words...but some things just can't be explained in great detail...I can't describe the "dead coil" taste any better than that for example....you'll know it when you taste it...does that make sense bud?
I am more than happy to help you as best as I can with words...but some things just can't be explained in great detail...I can't describe the "dead coil" taste any better than that for example....you'll know it when you taste it...does that make sense bud? Thanks, I've already ordered the iStick 50 watt and the Subtank mini. I found something that ships to norway pretty fast. 1-2 days,but it was more expesive then other sites where I needed to wait for weeks to get the package. Total the mod and the tank cost me 100 dollars. Better to pay a bit more so I can get it fast : )We can answer questions all day long and all night long and all day again...but reading about something only explains it so much...part of vaping is actually vaping and experiencing all the good and the burnt out of it
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Yeah, and that's pretty much the way it is...you pay for speed. I know when I lived in Switzerland we lived by the German boarder and we had a German PO Box because sometimes it was faster and cheaper to have it shipped to Germany or the company wouldn't ship to Switzerland at all for whatever reason so we had no other choice than to have it shipped there and go across the boarder and pick our stuff up
Congrats! I'm glad you found someone that will ship to you! Enjoy the new mod, and let us know what you think after it gets there!
I just got it now. I'm charging my iStick 50 watt now.
I have no idea what to do with the Aspire Nautilus mini tank tho.
What I have done is opened the tank and i took som E-juice in the tank. I have closed it and waiting for the mod to be charged.
Is that tank good to go, or do I have to do some more things? I have also read that I should put some E-juice on the coil but is that possible with this tank? I can't see where I could do that.
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@Kiicki The thing with FastTech... just make sure if you want a legit product that it says "authentic". I've order from them numerous times... Authentics and clones... Its very rare that I have any issues. And delivery time strictly relies on what you ordered. USPS and China E-Packet are the fastest shipping methods for me.
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yes it is possible to drip juice onto the BVC coils for the Nautilus mini...I haven't read above but I am sure I am one of the people that would tell you to do it...because by dripping juice onto the coil directly you only have to let the tank sit for a few minutes instead of 15 or more to make sure the wicking material around the coil is fully saturated so you don't burn it. If you burn the wicking material because it is not fully saturated you ruin the coil and have to start over with a fresh one.
To put liquid directly onto the coil there is two things you need to do.
First---there are four holes on the sides of the coil assembly. They are just below the center of the coil assembly....these are the holes that the juice flows threw to feed the wicking material and the coil. You put a drop of juice on each hole, one at a time, letting it soak into the wicking material for a moment before going on to the next one. You can see the liquid going into the coil as it slowly absorbs it and when it stops absorbing into the hole proceed to the next one until you have done all four of them in this manor.
Second---You drip liquid into the top of the coil. On the top of the coil is a small piece of stainless steel mesh, you drip a couple drops around the inside edge of the coil assembly onto this stainless steel mesh and the liquid will slowly work it's way into the wicking material below it. When you do this you have to be careful not to drip any liquid into the hole in the center of the coil as that is for airflow and if any liquid gets in there it will cause your tank to gurgle and possibly spit at you till it's cleared out.
Once you do these two things to a your new coil then you screw your coil into the base of your tank. Then, just like you would a Kayfun, open your airflow to the smallest of the four holes and cover it with your finger. Then you start to screw the base of the tank on to your top part of the tank that is full of liquid keeping the airflow hole still covered as you start screwing the tank together. Then, after the tank starts to seal, remove your finger from the airflow hole and finish screwing the tank together all the way. By doing this you help to create a better vacuum seal that will help your liquid feed to the coil better. Once your tank is fully assembled then you take a few "primer puffs" by sucking on your tank a few times without applying power...you should see a few bubbles come up threw the tank when you do this. Continue to take unpowered primer puffs until you no longer see the bubbles coming from your coil assembly. Once there are no more bubbles and you are done taking primer puffs you select the amount of airflow you are most comfortable vaping with. Then, you turn your mod all the way down and take a puff. If your mod's lowest setting does not satisfy you then turn up the power a watt or two and take another puff. Repeat this process of taking a puff and turning the wattage up until you find a level that satisfies your taste and gives you enough vapor the way you want it.
This is about the best way I know of to break in a new coil and find the vapor settings that suite your personal taste. It really is simple, I have told you everything you need to know in this post on how to put liquid into a coil and find the vapor setting that will work best for you with the device you have. I hope you are enjoying your new mod
Yes, the authentic was almost the same price as the one I bought, only that mine came in the mail 2 days later. I have heard that fasttech have som delivery issues, so I didn't want to gamble just to saves some bucks.
Thanks so much for that!yes it is possible to drip juice onto the BVC coils for the Nautilus mini...I haven't read above but I am sure I am one of the people that would tell you to do it...because by dripping juice onto the coil directly you only have to let the tank sit for a few minutes instead of 15 or more to make sure the wicking material around the coil is fully saturated so you don't burn it. If you burn the wicking material because it is not fully saturated you ruin the coil and have to start over with a fresh one.
To put liquid directly onto the coil there is two things you need to do.
First---there are four holes on the sides of the coil assembly. They are just below the center of the coil assembly....these are the holes that the juice flows threw to feed the wicking material and the coil. You put a drop of juice on each hole, one at a time, letting it soak into the wicking material for a moment before going on to the next one. You can see the liquid going into the coil as it slowly absorbs it and when it stops absorbing into the hole proceed to the next one until you have done all four of them in this manor.
Second---You drip liquid into the top of the coil. On the top of the coil is a small piece of stainless steel mesh, you drip a couple drops around the inside edge of the coil assembly onto this stainless steel mesh and the liquid will slowly work it's way into the wicking material below it. When you do this you have to be careful not to drip any liquid into the hole in the center of the coil as that is for airflow and if any liquid gets in there it will cause your tank to gurgle and possibly spit at you till it's cleared out.
Once you do these two things to a your new coil then you screw your coil into the base of your tank. Then, just like you would a Kayfun, open your airflow to the smallest of the four holes and cover it with your finger. Then you start to screw the base of the tank on to your top part of the tank that is full of liquid keeping the airflow hole still covered as you start screwing the tank together. Then, after the tank starts to seal, remove your finger from the airflow hole and finish screwing the tank together all the way. By doing this you help to create a better vacuum seal that will help your liquid feed to the coil better. Once your tank is fully assembled then you take a few "primer puffs" by sucking on your tank a few times without applying power...you should see a few bubbles come up threw the tank when you do this. Continue to take unpowered primer puffs until you no longer see the bubbles coming from your coil assembly. Once there are no more bubbles and you are done taking primer puffs you select the amount of airflow you are most comfortable vaping with. Then, you turn your mod all the way down and take a puff. If your mod's lowest setting does not satisfy you then turn up the power a watt or two and take another puff. Repeat this process of taking a puff and turning the wattage up until you find a level that satisfies your taste and gives you enough vapor the way you want it.
This is about the best way I know of to break in a new coil and find the vapor settings that suite your personal taste. It really is simple, I have told you everything you need to know in this post on how to put liquid into a coil and find the vapor setting that will work best for you with the device you have. I hope you are enjoying your new mod
One thing I realized with my Aspire Nautilus mini tank is that when I take out the bottom to fill the tank, the coil was still stuck in the tank. This happend after I have filled the tank maybe 5-6 times. I thought the coil was stuch to the bottom.
2 days ago I was getting some e-juice in my mouth. I didn't know why then, but as it seems, everytime i took off the bottom to fill the tank, the coil got more and more looser from the bottom, until it wasn't there anymore. No the coil is sitting good in the bottom, and the flavour is better, and the e-juice doesn't get in my mouth anymore. Don't know if this is normal for tanks, or if it's just bad design by Aspire.
madmonkey
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yep, that happens sometimes....I am willing to bet it's happened to well over 90 percent of Nautilus owners...The coil is what holds the tank together and if the threads on it aren't perfect it can unscrew from the bottom and stay in the top instead of the other way around like it's supposed to
I thought it was funny the first time...I thought it was annoying the second. You just want to be careful not to overtighten the tank when you put it together too much...what can happen if the tank is super tightened is that the bottom seal can become so tight that you cannot remove the base without breaking the glass because of the vacuum pressure inside. I don't know if it's happened to anyone with a mini, but I had to replace the glass on my big Nautilus because of this. I got a metal replacement tank....and even though I cannot see the liquid inside I haven't had any problems with it getting stuck and not wanting to come apart since. I just top it off every day I use it and I have no problems. But that is with a much larger tank If you get a replacement for the mini you want the metal tank with the glass because the tank is so small being able to see the amount of liquid in it is very important to avoid dry hits and burning coil heads I
I have to use pliers Tool to open the buttom. It works, I'm doing it slowly to not break it. Using my hands to open the butom is impossible even if I don't tighten it too much.yep, that happens sometimes....I am willing to bet it's happened to well over 90 percent of Nautilus owners...The coil is what holds the tank together and if the threads on it aren't perfect it can unscrew from the bottom and stay in the top instead of the other way around like it's supposed to