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What's considered high end?

Izanagi7

Bronze Contributor
Member For 1 Year
I’m a techie so the core of a premium mod to me is the excellence of the technology that goes into a mod. For regulated this means a DNA chip, support for 18650/20650/21650 batteries, and built-in balanced charging in a pinch. Battery life should be exceptional. The 510 connector should be replaceable.

Quality of materials and machining would be second. Everything should feel just right, from the button click to the weight of the parts, the surface finish, there must be no cheap materials being used.

Fit and finish goes hand in hand. Nothing should be even slightly crooked or off, and when you disassemble and reassemble the mod, it should all fit together as well as it did when new.

Overall product design should be award winning. It shouldn’t look like something that might cost 20 bucks or a 90’s PC peripheral. It should be ergonomic and pleasing to the eye. The design should also be enduring. It should look nice 5 or 10 years from now, and not like some flash in the pan trendy gadget.

Software updates should be a breeze, and offered regularly by the manufacturer.

Customer service should reply within 12 hours and offer an above and beyond beyond experience with no hiccups or annoyances.

Exotic materials definitely play a part, ultem and Stabwood. More so stabwood in my book, as each piece is completely unique. Rare and exotic woods also, and limited runs adds to the unobtainium desirability factor, but practically speaking has no bearing on actual product performance.

The mod should be exceptionally durable. It should last 20 years with careful use.

In the long run the manufacturer should also maintain an impeccable track record of excellent products, long term serviceability and parts availability, I should be able to send in a mod that’s 10 years old for servicing/refinishing/repair and be able to pay and have it all sorted out smoothly.

My ideal, imaginary world of premium mods:

I’d love to see custom metals, finishes and paint. So if I want, I can select titanium as a frame with knurled steel buttons or a dark teal powdercoat on a steel frame with machined resin stabilized rosewood buttons. Other elements like a sapphire glass or gorilla glass screen bezel. A super cool thing would be the ability to “field strip” a mod like a gun without screws or minimal screws, and interlocking parts and pins instead. A premium mod, in my book ought to come with a 3 or 5 year warranty as a testament to its quality.


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Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I’m a techie so the core of a premium mod to me is the excellence of the technology that goes into a mod. For regulated this means a DNA chip, support for 18650/20650/21650 batteries, and built-in balanced charging in a pinch. Battery life should be exceptional. The 510 connector should be replaceable.

Quality of materials and machining would be second. Everything should feel just right, from the button click to the weight of the parts, the surface finish, there must be no cheap materials being used.

Fit and finish goes hand in hand. Nothing should be even slightly crooked or off, and when you disassemble and reassemble the mod, it should all fit together as well as it did when new.

Overall product design should be award winning. It shouldn’t look like something that might cost 20 bucks or a 90’s PC peripheral. It should be ergonomic and pleasing to the eye. The design should also be enduring. It should look nice 5 or 10 years from now, and not like some flash in the pan trendy gadget.

Software updates should be a breeze, and offered regularly by the manufacturer.

Customer service should reply within 12 hours and offer an above and beyond beyond experience with no hiccups or annoyances.

Exotic materials definitely play a part, ultem and Stabwood. More so stabwood in my book, as each piece is completely unique. Rare and exotic woods also, and limited runs adds to the unobtainium desirability factor, but practically speaking has no bearing on actual product performance.

The mod should be exceptionally durable. It should last 20 years with careful use.

In the long run the manufacturer should also maintain an impeccable track record of excellent products, long term serviceability and parts availability, I should be able to send in a mod that’s 10 years old for servicing/refinishing/repair and be able to pay and have it all sorted out smoothly.

My ideal, imaginary world of premium mods:

I’d love to see custom metals, finishes and paint. So if I want, I can select titanium as a frame with knurled steel buttons or a dark teal powdercoat on a steel frame with machined resin stabilized rosewood buttons. Other elements like a sapphire glass or gorilla glass screen bezel. A super cool thing would be the ability to “field strip” a mod like a gun without screws or minimal screws, and interlocking parts and pins instead. A premium mod, in my book ought to come with a 3 or 5 year warranty as a testament to its quality.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you are into regulated mods, certainly I can see how this all makes very good sense. But personally, I, use a regulated mod only every once in a blue moon these days because I look at it from a whole different kind of perspective starting almost 2 years ago, and in fact if I tried to explain in more detail, most people would be dismissive and think I am an elitist so, usually, I feel like I'm not permitted to even talk about it or else I would just be wasting my time due to there being virtually no interest on forum websites such as this one; my guess the feeling of being not permitted is why those who do show a genuine lot of interest have all moved to other places on the internet, with only just a few exceptions. Those who are the exceptions don't talk much about this particular subject, or if they do decide to talk about it, then they still don't usually talk much sense. From what I can see, some of the stuff is too high end to not soon be banned completely out of existence.

Speaking of regulated mods, though... and especially the expensive DNA mods. After I adjust the wattage setting on a DNA mod by using the wattage up/down button, I need to keep jumping through burning hoops to re-adjust my custom power curve, on each and every occasion, which takes a considerable amount of effort and time, especially in the long term. Whereas on my Wismec Reuleaux RX300 with ArcticFox (and using NFE Tools on a Windows PC to set it up only one time), I never need to go through all this huge extra effort, as it cleverly uses percentages instead of wattages for this purpose so it adjusts itself automatically on-the-fly, set-and-forget type behavior style, and working always correct. So yeah, I am a techie too. Just not the kind of techie who uses temp control. Granted, temp control does work with various coil builds. But it still doesn't tend to work with coil builds I like to silently refer to as high end coil builds. That plus the fact I refer to (less silently, that is) temp control as training wheels on a bicycle. So on a DNA, that would translate to high end training wheels. And yeah, DNA boards can be a lot more power-efficient than most other boards. But the added vaping time that results from having greater battery life gets spent on jumping through burning hoops to re-re-re-shape the power curve, all of the time so... lol
 

jwill

The Great King of Nothing
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 2 Years
VU Challenge Team
Reddit Exile
VU SWAT
If you are into regulated mods, certainly I can see how this all makes very good sense. But personally, I, use a regulated mod only every once in a blue moon these days because I look at it from a whole different kind of perspective starting almost 2 years ago, and in fact if I tried to explain in more detail, most people would be dismissive and think I am an elitist so, usually, I feel like I'm not permitted to even talk about it or else I would just be wasting my time due to there being virtually no interest on forum websites such as this one; my guess the feeling of being not permitted is why those who do show a genuine lot of interest have all moved to other places on the internet, with only just a few exceptions. Those who are the exceptions don't talk much about this particular subject, or if they do decide to talk about it, then they still don't usually talk much sense. From what I can see, some of the stuff is too high end to not soon be banned completely out of existence.

Speaking of regulated mods, though... and especially the expensive DNA mods. After I adjust the wattage setting on a DNA mod by using the wattage up/down button, I need to keep jumping through burning hoops to re-adjust my custom power curve, on each and every occasion, which takes a considerable amount of effort and time, especially in the long term. Whereas on my Wismec Reuleaux RX300 with ArcticFox (and using NFE Tools on a Windows PC to set it up only one time), I never need to go through all this huge extra effort, as it cleverly uses percentages instead of wattages for this purpose so it adjusts itself automatically on-the-fly, set-and-forget type behavior style, and working always correct. So yeah, I am a techie too. Just not the kind of techie who uses temp control. Granted, temp control does work with various coil builds. But it still doesn't tend to work with coil builds I like to silently refer to as high end coil builds. That plus the fact I refer to (less silently, that is) temp control as training wheels on a bicycle. So on a DNA, that would translate to high end training wheels. And yeah, DNA boards can be a lot more power-efficient than most other boards. But the added vaping time that results from having greater battery life gets spent on jumping through burning hoops to re-re-re-shape the power curve, all of the time so... lol

This is why I never have used TC. When it hit the scene watching people go on about each and every individual setting required to make it work, no thanks. It complicates something that is rather uncomplicated (IMO).

I would rather just sit back and blow clouds. No adjustment needed except the regular battery swap and rewick.
 

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