Where does the voltage drop in the pulse come from?

[fightinggoat]

Got a pulse and hear a lot about the severe voltage drop with these mods, is most of it entirely in the on/off gate?

I ask because I removed said gate and accompanying parts, and soldered a 12ga wire from the 510 pin to the switch. Seems to hit harder, but now I am curious if it is also in the switch and or contacts.

It would appear to have a sealed mechanical switch, if that is a significant source of VD, then I could replace that with another switch and add a mosfet if it’s worth the trouble.

Or, is it in the contacts, I could replace those with some solid copper if it’s worth it.

Maybe removing the gate was enough and I have hit the point of diminishing returns, I am not looking for a competition mod, I just want the best reasonable level of conductivity.

Have I already accomplished this, or is there more to be done that will provide significant results?

Not looking to improve VD by .09%, more like it’s not worth my time unless I can actually tell by vaping that it’s an improvement.

 

[robert.conley.1656]

Got a pulse and hear a lot about the severe voltage drop with these mods, is most of it entirely in the on/off gate?

I ask because I removed said gate and accompanying parts, and soldered a 12ga wire from the 510 pin to the switch. Seems to hit harder, but now I am curious if it is also in the switch and or contacts.

It would appear to have a sealed mechanical switch, if that is a significant source of VD, then I could replace that with another switch and add a mosfet if it’s worth the trouble.

Or, is it in the contacts, I could replace those with some solid copper if it’s worth it.

Maybe removing the gate was enough and I have hit the point of diminishing returns, I am not looking for a competition mod, I just want the best reasonable level of conductivity.

Have I already accomplished this, or is there more to be done that will provide significant results?

Not looking to improve VD by .09%, more like it’s not worth my time unless I can actually tell by vaping that it’s an improvement.

May I see a pic of said modification? Was thinking about doing the same thing.

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[fightinggoat]

 

[robert.conley.1656]

So you soldered straight to the feed tube?
Just want to make sure, old eyes can be deceiving.

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[Ralph_K]

So you soldered straight to the feed tube?
Just want to make sure, old eyes can be deceiving.

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Its the blade in front of the tube

 

[robert.conley.1656]

Yes, it looks like the wire is soldered from the blade on the switch, the other end soldered straight to the tube

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[BoomStick]

Flux is your friend.

 

[The Cromwell]

All Techs like good flux.

 

[Ralph_K]

Seems like you could just solder the on-off switch closed and accomplish same thing

 

[fightinggoat]

Seems like you could just solder the on-off switch closed and accomplish same thing

Was going to do it that way first, but after looking at how it is designed, the block just slides up and down the feed tube to allow for the spring loaded 510 to accomdate different length pins. Seemed like a bad design for a solid connection, so I took all that out and soldered directly to the tube.

And yes, flux helped tremendously.

 

[The Cromwell]

The on off switch pivot point is a voltage drop area.

 

[fightinggoat]

My main area of concern now is the switch, fairly certain the battery contacts are ok as they appear to be copper, but I can’t see the inside of the switch so no real idea if it’s any good or not.

For sure the gate and pivot on/off had to be the biggest culprit, happy to be rid of that mistake.

I don’t see many other mech squonkers that use a sealed switch like the pulse, most use a button to push a copper tab over to the 510 negative post, very mechanical in nature if rather crude.
Wondering if that is a better design for a mod like this than the sealed switch Vandy Vape is using.

Only reason I haven’t pulled the switch and put a smaller switch with a mosfet in, is because the current switch is HUGE and it might be hard to find a replacement that large that isn’t a high amp switch, I need that space for the mosfet.

 

[robert.conley.1656]

Somebody took apart the switch. I want to say it was Mooch.

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[The Cromwell]

Only reason I haven’t pulled the switch and put a smaller switch with a mosfet in, is because the current switch is HUGE and it might be hard to find a replacement that large that isn’t a high amp switch, I need that space for the mosfet.

I am looking at using the existing switch to trigger a mosfet in the PUlse BF.
Yes one would have to make a sleeve/ferrule to fill in around another switch.

 

[hariboholmes]

View attachment 107805

Have you measured the voltage drop before and after the modification?

I will watch this thread with interest to see how you get on.

I picked up a couple of Pulse box's in a sale alongside some frosted panels.

It's a big shame that VV didn't just go with a simple mech design and silver plated copper contacts.

I do like the overall design and would love to see a 'mini' model 18650 only and better conductivity.



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[The Cromwell]

Have you measured the voltage drop before and after the modification?

I will watch this thread with interest to see how you get on.

I picked up a couple of Pulse box's in a sale alongside some frosted panels.

It's a big shame that VV didn't just go with a simple mech design and silver plated copper contacts.

I do like the overall design and would love to see a 'mini' model 18650 only and better conductivity.



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As I recall the switch was something that TonyB insisted on and bragged about.

 

[fightinggoat]

Update, gutted the box and added a mosfet, I retrofitted a better switch with an adapter I made from a plastic drain plug washer, but it ended being too long and touched the 510 so I just reused the old switch.
Redid everything else except 510, and battery tabs.

First pic is the before
The rest are after photos

Hard to tell from the pic, but the wire running up the back inside the channel was a copper bar from Vandy Vape, it was decent but too short for my modification so I cut it off and replaced it with some solid copper wire.

Seems to be a little more responsive at the switch, meaning it seems to fire faster once I push the button, but hits pretty similar, maybe a slight improvement, but not really worth the parts or labor, not to mention the now added complexity to what was once a very simple mod.

Tip: for anyone interested in doing something similar, with the way the negative battery tab is attached to the 510, and the battery orientation being the way it is, I found to necessary to flip the polarity so the 510 pin is now neg, and the threads are the positive. It’s the only way the mosfet would work without auto fire.

 

[The Cromwell]

View attachment 108214
View attachment 108215 View attachment 108216 View attachment 108217 Update, gutted the box and added a mosfet, I retrofitted a better switch with an adapter I made from a plastic drain plug washer, but it ended being too long and touched the 510 so I just reused the old switch.
Redid everything else except 510, and battery tabs.

First pic is the before
The rest are after photos

Hard to tell from the pic, but the wire running up the back inside the channel was a copper bar from Vandy Vape, it was decent but too short for my modification so I cut it off and replaced it with some solid copper wire.

Seems to be a little more responsive at the switch, meaning it seems to fire faster once I push the button, but hits pretty similar, maybe a slight improvement, but not really worth the parts or labor, not to mention the now added complexity to what was once a very simple mod.

Tip: for anyone interested in doing something similar, with the way the negative battery tab is attached to the 510, and the battery orientation being the way it is, I found to necessary to flip the polarity so the 510 pin is now neg, and the threads are the positive. It’s the only way the mosfet would work without auto fire.

Ahh but now no more contact cleaning and it hits the same every time.
Well depending on battery charge of course.
And those long leads to the Mosfet add resistance, even if large gauge.

My plan is to fit a small switch in with a ferrule around it and have the Mosfet right beside the 510.

 

[fightinggoat]

I would have liked to do it that way, but I didn’t have a switch short enough.

In any case, I only wanted to cure the shortcomings of the pulse, which is otherwise a great little inexpensive squonker. I did that once I removed that stupid gated switch.

 

[robert.conley.1656]

I just soldered the switch to the contact. Haven't tested with a volt meter, but it feels better.

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[fightinggoat]

Switched it back over to full mech again. Didn’t care for the layout with the mosfet and didn’t really see enough improvement to keep it.
Maybe once I get a switch I like better that takes up less space I will revisit.

In any case, it’s a lot cleaner looking than that red wire I had on it the first go round.

 

[robert.conley.1656]

Ok so I measured with a volt meter.
4.0 resting
3.47 while firing
3.11 at the atomizer posts
So .36v drop.
I'm not sure that's good or bad.

Pulse 24 measured at .22ohm I think
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[fightinggoat]

Ok so I measured with a volt meter.
4.0 resting
3.47 while firing
3.11 at the atomizer posts
So .36v drop.
I'm not sure that's good or bad.

Pulse 24 measured at .22ohm I think
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The 3.47 while firing, was that with the .22ohm build still attached? If so that’s not bad, unless that was without any resistance like with no atty attached.

 

[fightinggoat]

Just did some VD testing with my improved mech squonk.

Resting V 4.15
At 510 while firing V 3.75
At atty posts while firing V 3.46
With .18ohm build

Also did a run with a .25ohm build and it measured

Resting V 4.13
At 510 V 3.85
At atty posts V 3.65

Seems to make more sense to me to look at the resting battery voltage and compare that to the voltage at the 510 while under load, I think that would give a better idea of what is lost in the mod and the battery sag.

Thinking that the measurements taken at the atty posts are lower due to some of the voltage being used by the coils.

I could be wrong, not sure how these readings are usually taken.

Looking at VD at the 510 it would be .29V for the .18ohm build, and .2V for the .25ohm build.

That goes up if going by the atty readings and would be .4V at atty for .18ohm, and .29V for .25ohm.

 

[fightinggoat]

Another way to look at it would be from resting voltage to atty measurements.

That makes my VD
.69V @ .18ohm
.48V @ .25ohm

Compared to your VD of .89V @ .22ohms.

 

[robert.conley.1656]

I measured at the battery contacts at rest, then while firing with the load attached. Then I tested at the terminal of the atty while firing. The 3.47 is with the battery sag, battery under load.
Running some 25r's but they are over a year old and due for replacement

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