Which battery for my new box mod?

[Married 2 The 7]

Well I just got a new box mod but have no batteries. Have done some reasearch and I see a lot of VTC Sony and such but I was looking into these that had very high ratings but haven't really heard anyone on here talk about.
amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAD6AUE
How good are these Orbtronic batteries?
It says on the box "Battery Specification: 2 x 18650 (7.4V) Continuous output current needs to be above 30A"
Which battery do you guys recommend? Thanks!

 

[18650battery]

Orbtronic batteries that is work great

 

[18650battery]

how about efast ? how about birllipower?

 

[Ngkon]

The Orbtronics are good but pricey, the Sony VTC5's are no longer made. The VTC3 and VTC4 are available but have a lower capacity then the two I'd recommend which are the Samsung 25r or the LG HE2. Either can be found on eBay for around $14 for two with shipping.

 

[Married 2 The 7]

The Orbtronics are good but pricey, the Sony VTC5's are no longer made. The VTC3 and VTC4 are available but have a lower capacity then the two I'd recommend which are the Samsung 25r or the LG HE2. Either can be found on eBay for around $14 for two with shipping.

reading about them they sound awesome! Question though. Are they better than Sony VTC4? also it says in the instruction manual "Continuous output current needs to be above 30A" these are 25A if I remember correctly. While these still be safe for vaping sub-ohm? Or for the box itself since it says it needs to be 30A? Thanks for the help guys!!

 

[Number3124]

If it says that output needs to be above 30a then VTC 4s and 3s are really you're only option. Those batteries don't actually say what their maximum continuous output is, but it does indicate that they're protected which likely means that they're somewhere in the 10 amp range. They're not what you want to vape on. There are much better 18650s out there.

http://liionwholesale.com/ has good prices on VTC4s. 2100mAh is not at all bad for 30 amp maximum continuous discharge.

 

[Mike H.]

VTC4's are gonna be your best deal for "real" 30 amp batteries...Expensive though...Dont forget a quality charger as well...Nitecore are good and arent too expensive...im using the nitecore intellicharger i2...somewhere around 20 22 bucks is a good price for one.

Most any name like E fest, orbtronic, mjxo etc... are just re wrapped cells from major battery manufacturers like sony and panasonic, samsung, LG etc...

Usually you can find the battery from the manufacturer cheaper than you can a re wrapped brand.

What mod did you get?

 

[Married 2 The 7]

If it says that output needs to be above 30a then VTC 4s and 3s are really you're only option. Those batteries don't actually say what their maximum continuous output is, but it does indicate that they're protected which likely means that they're somewhere in the 10 amp range. They're not what you want to vape on. There are much better 18650s out there.

http://liionwholesale.com/ has good prices on VTC4s. 2100mAh is not at all bad for 30 amp maximum continuous discharge.

this is what it says. I'm sure they aren't necessary to be 30A.. http://www.vapeoholic.com/store/p341/vapeObox_150Watts.html

 

[Number3124]

VTC4's are gonna be your best deal for "real" 30 amp batteries...Expensive though...

Not really? $9.00 a battery isn't that bad. Also, they're really the only name in the game at the moment. Everything else is between 20 and 25 amp. The only other name in the game is a 30 amp 1500 mAh LG battery of whose name I can't recall.

 

[Mike H.]

"http://liionwholesale.com/ has good prices on VTC4s. 2100mAh is not at all bad for 30 amp maximum continuous discharge."

Im waiting for the 25R's to come back in stock.

 

[Number3124]

"http://liionwholesale.com/ has good prices on VTC4s. 2100mAh is not at all bad for 30 amp maximum continuous discharge."

Im waiting for the 25R's to come back in stock.

They are in stock.

http://liionwholesale.com/collectio...mah-flat-top-wholesale-lot?variant=1038201992

 

[Mike H.]

this is what it says. I'm sure they aren't necessary to be 30A.. http://www.vapeoholic.com/store/p341/vapeObox_150Watts.html

Unless your doing super sub ohm probably not...most use 20 amp batteries anyway in our variable watt devices...Samsung 25R and LG HE 2 seem to be the popular batteries lately...Samsung supposedly the better of the 2...less than $6 dollars a battery from liion.

 

[Mike H.]

He told me beginning of next week...guess they got there sooner..lol

 

[Mike H.]

$13.64 for 2 samsung 25R's shipped.. paid for.

 

[Married 2 The 7]

$13.64 for 2 samsung 25R's shipped.. paid for.

like a boss

 

[Married 2 The 7]

Unless your doing super sub ohm probably not...most use 20 amp batteries anyway in our variable watt devices...Samsung 25R and LG HE 2 seem to be the popular batteries lately...Samsung supposedly the better of the 2...less than $6 dollars a battery from liion.

I should be fine with either Sony or Samsung 25r with that box right? I won't be going under .3-4ohm's. Going to stay at .5+

 

[Number3124]

I should be fine with either Sony or Samsung 25r with that box right? I won't be going under .3-4ohm's. Going to stay at .5+

Without being able to find anymore information I would say no...? Possibly? I guess. I mean it's hard to tell from what's on the page.

 

[Mike H.]

I should be fine with either Sony or Samsung 25r with that box right? I won't be going under .3-4ohm's. Going to stay at .5+

Wait for some of the sub ohm guys to chime in before making a decision...I dont subohm so my using 20 amps is pretty safe.

Dont hold me to this but ive always thought 30 amp was needed for .3 and under but i could be wrong.

Its more of a safety margin thing...you dont want to pull 17 amps on a 20 amp cell as it would get hot and not last very long...The general rule is enough amperage to give a pretty decent safety margin....If you use more than half of the batteries amps you should be using a higher amp battery.

 

[Mike H.]

The more wattage you use the more amps you will draw.

.5 ohm with 4.2v (freshly charged battery) at 35 watts is drawing 8.4 amps.
if you arent going to be using more than 35 watts you should be safe at .5 ohm with 20 amps.

.4 ohm is 10.5 amps at the same 35 watts so i wouldnt do it personally with a 20 amp battery.

Make sure you invest in a quality ohms checker as well.

 

[Number3124]

Personally I don't worry until I have about 5 amps headroom. So I can pull 15 from a 20amp and 25 from a 30. That's just me though.

 

[Daniel]

I should be fine with either Sony or Samsung 25r with that box right? I won't be going under .3-4ohm's. Going to stay at .5+

If you are not going under .4, then I would be very comfortable with the Samsung 25R's. I have about 20 of those, 4 of the purple Efests, & 10 of the Sony VTC4's. I got those before the drought hit and they dried up in availabilty. I use a handmade wooden mod box, & all I ever have in it is the Samsung 25'R's. I get crazy life out of them, & like you, I DO NOT go below .4.

Read too many horror stories about shit blowing someone's face off below .3 or .2. I just feel anything that low is just taking too many chances, & I rather like my face, & so does my wife....hehehehe... Good luck!

 

[BoomStick]

You guys are trying to apply ohms law as it works in a mech to a regulated device that adjusts output voltage using a dc-dc convertor. It doesn't work like that. The resistance of the build has jack shit to do with the amp load placed on the batteries. The watt setting, battery voltage and chip efficiency determine how much current is pulled from them.

 

[Mike H.]

You guys are trying to apply ohms law as it works in a mech to a regulated device that adjusts output voltage using a dc-dc convertor. It doesn't work like that. The resistance of the build has jack shit to do with the amp load placed on the batteries. The watt setting, battery voltage and chip efficiency determine how much current is pulled from them.

True but you can over tax a battery just the same in a regulated device...may only be 7 amps at 35 watts with a .5 build but that jumps to over 10 amps just going .1 less and jumps even more for a .2 etc....this is with 35 watts and its alot more with higher watts.

I for one like to not go over half a batteries capabilities to ensure long life and most certainly an extreme safety margin.

EDIT: I suppose some devices will draw only so much power...The dna 30 clone is 10 amp max....so maybe thats an example...still wouldnt use a 6amp battery in one at 30 watts...lol

 

[BoomStick]

Whether or not a battery is being pushed past its limits can't be determined if the wrong method of amp load calculation is being used. First things first.

 

[Slurp812]

35 watts on a regulated mod will pull the SAME current from the battery regardless of load resistance. Yes, as long as the mod can generate the voltage required, a 0.2 ohm build, and 2.0 ohm build will be the same as far as the battery is concerned. Realistically speaking, you need to choose batteries based on the wattage you run. With 20 amp batteries, the max you can get is around 70 watts. With a 150 watt box mod with only 2 batteries, 20 would not be enough.

 

[Number3124]

35 watts on a regulated mod will pull the SAME current from the battery regardless of load resistance. Yes, as long as the mod can generate the voltage required, a 0.2 ohm build, and 2.0 ohm build will be the same as far as the battery is concerned. Realistically speaking, you need to choose batteries based on the wattage you run. With 20 amp batteries, the max you can get is around 70 watts. With a 150 watt box mod with only 2 batteries, 20 would not be enough.

Um... no. I'm sorry. Being regulated doesn't suddenly mean that it magically ignores ohms law. More often than not a regulated device just won't fire a 0.2ohm build. If it does it will also tell you that you have to use 30A max CDR batteries, or it will be a parallel device and tell you that your batteries each have to be 15A max CDR.

There's no getting around it. A 0.2ohm build will always draw 21A when you put fully charged batteries behind it. If you set the wattage lower, it will pull less current because you have less voltage, however, we're talking about a four variable equation where all four variables are related. If you fix P then as you change the value for R, I and V will also change in accordance. So, if R goes down to 2, while P stays fixed at 35W, and we set R and 0.2 ohms, then I is about 13A and V is 2.65 volts. If we take R up to 2 ohms as you suggested, then I is down to about 4.5A while V is up to 8.37 volts. The amperage drawn is still dependant on the build.

 

[BoomStick]

You can't apply simple ohms law across a dc-dc convertor. And by the way 150w mods use series battery configurations. The convertor steps the voltage down.
The only factors that affect the amp load on the batteries in a regulated mod are battery voltage, watt setting and chip efficiency. That's it. You don't have to believe it if you don't want to.

 

[Number3124]

You can't apply simple ohms law across a dc-dc convertor. And by the way 150w mods use series battery configurations. The convertor steps the voltage down.
The only factors that affect the amp load on the batteries in a regulated mod are battery voltage, watt setting and chip efficiency. That's it. You don't have to believe it if you don't want to.

Current can't just come from nowhere. Also, yes, that does makes sense about series. Series configurations add the voltage, which in turn means you get n*wattage where n is the number of batteries. It does also make sense that the voltage would be stepped down, as, at 0.5ohms, if the full voltage were applied, it would be over 140w.

But I'll say it again, I find it hard to believe that a chip can create more current than the batteries can supply. What's likely happening is that it takes less voltage to get the wattage you want, thus, as it steps down the voltage, the amps drawn lower.

 

[BoomStick]

Watts in, watts out (minus convertor loss which is usually about 5%). If the chip is asked to output 35w, the batteries supply the chip with 35w. Since wattage is voltage times current, the battery voltage dictates how much current needs to be supplied to get the 35w in to the chip. The chip reads the resistance of the load and adjusts that 35w to whatever voltage and current it needs to supply to the load to get 35w of power as output. Clear as mud right?

 

[Number3124]

I'm sure you mean P=(V^2)/R?

After all, electricity in a non-resistance circuit is never measured in watts. What's being sent to the coils isn't wants. What's being drawn from the battery isn't watts. Watts is a measure of work or power, in this case the heating of the coils, wick, and juice.

Batteries supply amps and volts.The board asks for voltage, but the circuit on the other end demands amps. If it can't be supplied, mod will detect that it's out of it's range (assuming you're using batteries with the recommended CDR) and not allow the mod to be fired. Failing that you have a dead short on your hands and are soundly fucked. Also, the more voltage you have the higher the amps will be at lower ohms.

Out of curiosity, what batteries are recommended for Sig150W box? And what's the lowest it will fire?

 

[BoomStick]

The power formula is actually P = IE. I'm sure you don't understand electronics theory as well as you think. Have a nice day.

 

[Slurp812]

Both power formulas are correct. Many users seem to not realize battery current and atomizer current are totally different in a regulated mod. So for example i am using a 1.2 ohm (reads 1.1) coil in my subtank, and the mod says 4.4 volts when I have it set to 17.5 watts. These numbers are easy to come up with. So around 3.9 amps to the load. In this case, with super simplified math if I use 3.7 as the battery voltage under load I would have 4.7 amps from the battery (average) just to power the atomizer. I also need some power for the circuit, which is small, but needs to be mentioned. DC to DC regulators will pull large current spikes from the battery in use. so this 4.7 amps doesn't seem like much, but in reality the circuit would be pulling short bursts of much more current to charge the inductor in the regulator.

 

[Slurp812]

But I'll say it again, I find it hard to believe that a chip can create more current than the batteries can supply. What's likely happening is that it takes less voltage to get the wattage you want, thus, as it steps down the voltage, the amps drawn lower.

If we were to take a look at this situation closer 7.4 volts for the math, and we had a .2 build on that device. We now only need to select wattage, and we cam come up with some ballpark numbers. Lets say 80 watts, and assume we are getting the 7.4 volts @ that wattage we would then have (I=P/V) 10.8 amps. We must remember we need some power for the regulator also, so this will be a little higher. We also need to remember this is average current. Now on the atomizer side we assume we are getting the 80 watts asked for. We know its a 0.2 ohm load, so we can calculate from that both the voltage and current required to equal 80 watts. The square root of P/R = I. So we get 20 amps at the load. And an easy to calculate 4 volts at the load. This is all using very rough average calculations. In essence the regulator can trade voltage for current or vice versa to match the wattage requested to the load.

 

[Slurp812]

Um... no. I'm sorry. Being regulated doesn't suddenly mean that it magically ignores ohms law. More often than not a regulated device just won't fire a 0.2ohm build. If it does it will also tell you that you have to use 30A max CDR batteries, or it will be a parallel device and tell you that your batteries each have to be 15A max CDR.

There's no getting around it. A 0.2ohm build will always draw 21A when you put fully charged batteries behind it. If you set the wattage lower, it will pull less current because you have less voltage, however, we're talking about a four variable equation where all four variables are related. If you fix P then as you change the value for R, I and V will also change in accordance. So, if R goes down to 2, while P stays fixed at 35W, and we set R and 0.2 ohms, then I is about 13A and V is 2.65 volts. If we take R up to 2 ohms as you suggested, then I is down to about 4.5A while V is up to 8.37 volts. The amperage drawn is still dependant on the build.

OK, lets look at this closely. Assume we have a single 18650, and a .2 ohm build. Regulated. We want to keep the watts low for some reason. So I set it to 20 watts. I am going to even add in one watt of power (super rough estimate) to account for the regulation circuity. So 21 watts on the battery side of the regulator. Since this is a little lower I am going to also assume I have 3.8 volts, Ohms law so 21 watts divided by 3.8 volts and ~5.5 amps. On the Atomizer side, this will be ~20 watts So we know 2 things. Enough to calculate. 20 watts dissipated by a 0.2 ohms load means 2 volts is applied, and 10 amps is flowing. There are 2 sides to a regulated circuit.

 

[Slurp812]

Sorry for jacking this thread. I only mean to help. Bottom line is this user should get Sony VTC 4 for that mod. Its the only battery we can seem to obtain that has the 30 amp continuous rating. Realistically a 20 amp battery can only safely output ~70 watts. This mod at full power would be asking for 75+. Please be careful out there!

 

[Number3124]

OK, lets look at this closely. Assume we have a single 18650, and a .2 ohm build. Regulated. We want to keep the watts low for some reason. So I set it to 20 watts. I am going to even add in one watt of power (super rough estimate) to account for the regulation circuity. So 21 watts on the battery side of the regulator. Since this is a little lower I am going to also assume I have 3.8 volts, Ohms law so 21 watts divided by 3.8 volts and ~5.5 amps. On the Atomizer side, this will be ~20 watts So we know 2 things. Enough to calculate. 20 watts dissipated by a 0.2 ohms load means 2 volts is applied, and 10 amps is flowing. There are 2 sides to a regulated circuit.

Alright. I guess I get it. I figured the regulation was just throttling voltage. I wasn't considering that it was actually a transformer.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

I need batteries too. How about these? I'm fed up with having to keep upgrading, I wanna do this right the first time.

http://vapingunderground.com/thread...2500mah-6-99-free-shipping.63983/#post-389662

 

[BoomStick]

I need batteries too. How about these? I'm fed up with having to keep upgrading, I wanna do this right the first time.

http://vapingunderground.com/thread...2500mah-6-99-free-shipping.63983/#post-389662

The LG HE2's are quality, trusted batteries. They have worked very well for me and after several months of use they are holding a charge better than my vtc4's that were purchased at the same time. They are a solid choice.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

The LG HE2's are quality, trusted batteries. They have worked very well for me and after several months of use they are holding a charge better than my vtc4's that were purchased at the same time. They are a solid choice.

That's just what I wanted to hear, thanks BoomStick!

 

[Mike H.]

I need batteries too. How about these? I'm fed up with having to keep upgrading, I wanna do this right the first time.

http://vapingunderground.com/thread...2500mah-6-99-free-shipping.63983/#post-389662

If youre in the U.S...you can get them for $5.34 each from Liion wholesale....Its like 2 dollars and change for shipping..mention VU and you may get a free battery storage container for them.

The LG batteries have been know to be a quality cell but the Samsung 25R's are a slight step above and seem to be the most popular battery going right now...Less than $6 each from same place $5.74 ea i think...worth a little bit more in imho...Both are a solid 20 amp but the samsung has a much higher "burst" rating and seem to take longer to discharge in general ..I have the Efest 2500 which is an LGHE2 cell...the samsung gives me a little bit more time of use meaning it takes a little longer to start dropping off in power..Either battery though is a good choice.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

If youre in the U.S...you can get them for $5.34 each from Liion wholesale....Its like 2 dollars and change for shipping..mention VU and you may get a free battery storage container for them.

The LG batteries have been know to be a quality cell but the Samsung 25R's are a slight step above and seem to be the most popular battery going right now...Less than $6 each from same place $5.74 ea i think...worth a little bit more in imho...Both are a solid 20 amp but the samsung has a much higher "burst" rating and seem to take longer to discharge in general ..I have the Efest 2500 which is an LGHE2 cell...the samsung gives me a little bit more time of use meaning it takes a little longer to start dropping off in power..Either battery though is a good choice.

Ordered 4 ( ) of the Samsung 25R's Thanks... I'm gonna have to hold you responsable for these batteries though. http://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-25r-18650-rechargeable-battery/

 

[Mike H.]

Ordered 4 ( ) of the Samsung 25R's Thanks... I'm gonna have to hold you responsable for these batteries though. http://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-25r-18650-rechargeable-battery/

Ill take it to the fullest...Awesome 20 amp batteries...Enjoy