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Which is the safest mech mod ?

Asif Majeed

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Hi I Am New With Mech Mods Reading Alot But Looking For Professional Advice I Need Coolest Safest Mech Mod Also Rda And Drip Tip Which Can Match With It

Thanks In Advance
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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The safety issue is not with mechs themselves but of how you use them (unless it is defective or poorly built).
Since mechs have no safety features, it's up to you to know what you're doing, understand ohm's law, know the actual continues amp rating of the battery(s) used and as a result the safe resistance that can be applied.
 

JERUS

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Yup, I think the only way you could answer this is "which has the least amount of things the user could screw up" which would lean towards a 510 connection tube mech as parallel or series you have extra connections to check, and hybrid in and of itself is just dangerous if you don't know what to check for. Tube mech, make sure your batteries are wrapped up tight, adjust anything that needs adjusting and build at .2Ω and above and you should be solid.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Also only use authentic LG, Samsung, Sony that are rated at 20A or above for the 0.2 ohms that jerus mentioned.
There are many rewrapped batteries around with exaggerated specifications, some "40"A batteries are only 10A or worst.
Doing 0.2 on a 10A battery would stress the crap out of it, literally.
 

Woodsman

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Hi I Am New With Mech Mods Reading Alot But Looking For Professional Advice I Need Coolest Safest Mech Mod Also Rda And Drip Tip Which Can Match With It

Thanks In Advance
I'm not an expert, but I haven't blown my face off yet. I own four Manhattan mods. The switch is a rare earth magnet, super strong. A good 1:1 clone will cost about $25. Also, use heavier wire for building coils. I've been using 24awg but am moving to 22 awg. My thought is that more amps require thicker wire (look at the wire running to your home dryer versus your home toaster. Mechs can push some amps, so I think thicker is better. I use Sony VCT4 or LG HE4 (check out your sellers so you don't get junk).
 

JERUS

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I'm not an expert, but I haven't blown my face off yet. I own four Manhattan mods. The switch is a rare earth magnet, super strong. A good 1:1 clone will cost about $25. Also, use heavier wire for building coils. I've been using 24awg but am moving to 22 awg. My thought is that more amps require thicker wire (look at the wire running to your home dryer versus your home toaster. Mechs can push some amps, so I think thicker is better. I use Sony VCT4 or LG HE4 (check out your sellers so you don't get junk).
I disagree with the thicker wire... now, you will get more production with a lower resistance wire as you're going to get more watts due to ohms law. So say a dual 8 wrap 24g 3mm ID setup vs the same with 22g you're looking at a hair under .375Ω for the 24g which would yield you about 37w, now the 22g in the same setup you'd get about .25Ω and yield 55w. So you'll go up in power, however the thicker the wire the more heat you need to get it up and running so the ramp up is a concern and lower resistance needs more power as well. So that thicker wire while giving you more wattage may not be a better vape.

For a personal example I have a small 5 or 6 wrap 28g SS fused clapton dual coil on one of my tube mods. It ramps up nearly right away running at .18Ω, a nice vape. Now I was thinking I could build a bigger coil for more production and get a similar resistance, so I built a 26g SS fused clapton but 9 wraps IIRC and it read .17Ω, well the thing takes a good 3-4s to really start chugging along.

So there's a balance of trying to minimize the metal that needs heated, maximize the surface area for optimal output, and dial in a good resistance to force your battery to pump out ample power. Building for a tube mech without breaking safety rules can be a bit of a PITA IMO.
 

Mythical_OD

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Everyone else said it, there isnt a safest mech. If you act stupid with it, it can blow up, follow the rules and itll treat you right. Just get something with parallel wired 18650s and a floating 510 or anything other than a hybrid/direct connect, maybe a mosfet, and its basically just as safe as a regulated.
 

pulsevape

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Member For 4 Years
a mech mod with a lock ring,that isn't a hybrid or hybrid style top cap is the safest, get a mod with adjustable contacts don't get a copper mod as your first mech mod get some experince first..get the best safest batteries you can buy ...sell your body if you have to no excuse for cheaping out on the batteries...don't get a magnetic switch if your thinking of vaping low sub ohms....get an ohm meter BEFORE you buy the mod and learn how to build...build high reistance for awhile till youve made a few mistakes, then work your way down.
 

Woodsman

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Member For 4 Years
I disagree with the thicker wire... now, you will get more production with a lower resistance wire as you're going to get more watts due to ohms law. So say a dual 8 wrap 24g 3mm ID setup vs the same with 22g you're looking at a hair under .375Ω for the 24g which would yield you about 37w, now the 22g in the same setup you'd get about .25Ω and yield 55w. So you'll go up in power, however the thicker the wire the more heat you need to get it up and running so the ramp up is a concern and lower resistance needs more power as well. So that thicker wire while giving you more wattage may not be a better vape.

For a personal example I have a small 5 or 6 wrap 28g SS fused clapton dual coil on one of my tube mods. It ramps up nearly right away running at .18Ω, a nice vape. Now I was thinking I could build a bigger coil for more production and get a similar resistance, so I built a 26g SS fused clapton but 9 wraps IIRC and it read .17Ω, well the thing takes a good 3-4s to really start chugging along.

So there's a balance of trying to minimize the metal that needs heated, maximize the surface area for optimal output, and dial in a good resistance to force your battery to pump out ample power. Building for a tube mech without breaking safety rules can be a bit of a PITA IMO.

Thanks for breaking it down so well. I was focused on safety more than ramp up time etc. Safety with my mech is my biggest concern. But...I am a relative NOOB, and I have a long ways to go (and I haven't had computer access so haven't been watching a lot of tutorials, which is really necessary to learn safety.
Finally, if you are not a careful person who pays attention to detail, better leave the mechs alone. Upside down batteries and loose connections, etc are not done by careful methodical types.
 

Woodsman

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Yup, I think the only way you could answer this is "which has the least amount of things the user could screw up" which would lean towards a 510 connection tube mech as parallel or series you have extra connections to check, and hybrid in and of itself is just dangerous if you don't know what to check for. Tube mech, make sure your batteries are wrapped up tight, adjust anything that needs adjusting and build at .2Ω and above and you should be solid.
I just bought a clear ABS parallel box mod...the wiring does add some extra concern. Yep, a battery and a tube and a solid switch seems to feel the best.
 

Woodsman

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Member For 4 Years
a mech mod with a lock ring,that isn't a hybrid or hybrid style top cap is the safest, get a mod with adjustable contacts don't get a copper mod as your first mech mod get some experince first..get the best safest batteries you can buy ...sell your body if you have to no excuse for cheaping out on the batteries...don't get a magnetic switch if your thinking of vaping low sub ohms....get an ohm meter BEFORE you buy the mod and learn how to build...build high reistance for awhile till youve made a few mistakes, then work your way down.
I just bought a copper Manhattan with a rare earth magnet switch...what's the danger there?
 

pulsevape

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I just bought a copper Manhattan with a rare earth magnet switch...what's the danger there?
It is not dangerous it is when you have a magnetic switch running a lot of juice through it will demagnetize the magnets eventually. as for the copper some people say that you have to be real careful with copper tubes because if you get a tear in your battery wrap the copper is more likely to conduct...keep an eye on your batteries and it shouldn't be a problem I doubt it's much of one anyway.
 

Woodsman

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It is not dangerous it is when you have a magnetic switch running a lot of juice through it will demagnetize the magnets eventually. as for the copper some people say that you have to be real careful with copper tubes because if you get a tear in your battery wrap the copper is more likely to conduct...keep an eye on your batteries and it shouldn't be a problem I doubt it's much of one anyway.
I'll watch for demagnetized magnets. When I 'm not using my mod, I unscrew the bottom about 1/8" to prevent it firing accidentally. And I do keep an eye on my battery wraps. Thanks for the input!
 

Woodsman

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Member For 4 Years
Mech safety has nothing to do with the mech. It has to do with the user. Until you understand that, don't buy a mech.
Some people shouldn't mess with mechs just because they are not technical types. One must be a careful observant methodical person, and even then one can make mistakes!
 

pulsevape

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Member For 4 Years
Some people shouldn't mess with mechs just because they are not technical types. One must be a careful observant methodical person, and even then one can make mistakes!
I suppose...I worked with dangerous tools most of my working life so saftey checks with equipment is just second nature...but I've noticed that people that don't use tools very often can figure out a way to saw off their peckers with a saftey pin.
 

BoomStick

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What kills me is the people that come on here and ask 'what's wrong with my mech?' and they haven't even taken the fucking thing apart. Idiots.
 

anen

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Safest mech mod is the one that is in hands of well educated owner with fully functional brain. Everything else is bs. You have to know your equipment , your boundaries and limitations or you're going to get hurt. Like firearms... you know. Or even better.. Like ordnance. We are enjoying sucking on a potential hand granade:)
 

Woodsman

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
a mech mod with a lock ring,that isn't a hybrid or hybrid style top cap is the safest, get a mod with adjustable contacts don't get a copper mod as your first mech mod get some experince first..get the best safest batteries you can buy ...sell your body if you have to no excuse for cheaping out on the batteries...don't get a magnetic switch if your thinking of vaping low sub ohms....get an ohm meter BEFORE you buy the mod and learn how to build...build high reistance for awhile till youve made a few mistakes, then work your way down.
I have to agree on not buying a copper mod...that copper Manhattan is just too heavy!! There are aluminum Manhattans available, but I'm sticking with my aluminum Manhattan Skylines.
 

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