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Wicking Problem

njdevil

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Maybe somebody could help me out here.............

I am vaping on an smpl mech with an omega rda with 28g super nano coils @ .4 on cotton clouds with max vg juice and I am running into a annoying little issue.

No mater how good I think my clouds are or how much juice I am dripping or how soaked the clouds look if I take anything more than a good 2 second pull I get a dry hit.

I know the super nano's aren't great for taking long pulls but I wanna push the limits sometimes and I just can't seem to figure out wtf I am doing wrong.

Anybody got any good advice ?
 

njdevil

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Ive done plenty of 3mm coils and i never have the problem with them, I am really trying to figure it out with these super nanos because the flavor and vape production is really great without much hassle building.

I do appreciate the response Neuner.
 

BigNasty

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But the hassle is in the wicking and not sucking in that hot metallic assy taste of burning.
 

Neunerball

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You could try a different approach, if you want to stick with the super nano coil(s). You should find it easily when using Google search. It's called a Dragon Coil.
 

njdevil

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You could try a different approach, if you want to stick with the super nano coil(s). You should find it easily when using Google search. It's called a Dragon Coil.

Good call neuner, I've known about dragon coils for a little while now just haven't tried em yet cuz I think the cotton on top of the coil is gonna get even drier quicker but I think your correct, i am gonna try em out tonight and see how they fair.
 

Neunerball

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The wicking material is actually wrapped around the coil. You'll have to find the right amount of wicking material though. The dragon coil was the first coil I ever build. Here's a video.
 

njdevil

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Awesome man, thanks. In your opinion on a scale of 1-10 1 being the least, roughly how dense do you think the cotton should be ?
 

Neunerball

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Japanese cotton (Koh Gen Do), is all I use as wicking material. IMO, it provides the best wicking, and I don't get any flavor of the cotton itself.

With Japanese cotton, I peel off the two denser outer layers, as thin as possible. Then you just have to cut of the proper width of a strip to be used as a wick. No special prepping is needed after that.

With organic cotton you need to have loose material, which will help with the wicking. Even though, it might be compressed again, it will still have enough space in between the fibers, important to transport the liquid.
 

Flightmedic76

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I tried doing some micro coils and was never really happy for the effort involved, just my opinion though. I started using UD's premade Clapton wire on a spool. I'm wrapping it 5 times at 3mm, and it comes out to around .42 for a dual. I also starting the Scottish Roll wicking method in the link below. It would be nearly impossible on a micro coil. I have noticed that the wicks hold a ton of juice now (you are using about 3/4 of a sheet of cotton at once). I can hit it 12-15 times easily at 60W without losing flavor or running dry. It's my "go to" setup now. It's great from 50W clear up to a toasty 180.

 

PaulS

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Unlike RTAs I tend to stuff my atty with as much cotton as I can fit. I also never go below 2.5 mm and if the deck vcan handle it 3.0 mm. I have an APO that I can get a good 10-15 pulls off on my mech.
 

njdevil

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I tried doing some micro coils and was never really happy for the effort involved, just my opinion though. I started using UD's premade Clapton wire on a spool. I'm wrapping it 5 times at 3mm, and it comes out to around .42 for a dual. I also starting the Scottish Roll wicking method in the link below. It would be nearly impossible on a micro coil. I have noticed that the wicks hold a ton of juice now (you are using about 3/4 of a sheet of cotton at once). I can hit it 12-15 times easily at 60W without losing flavor or running dry. It's my "go to" setup now. It's great from 50W clear up to a toasty 180.



I've been interested in giving this a try just havent gotten around to it yet, I will have to give it a go on my tfv4 rba.

I really like the dual super nano in my rda's for the moment , the dragon wicking method that neunerball recommended is definitely helping. I think part of the issue is that the super nano's I build heat up so fast that the wick just cant keep up, even when there is juice in the well I still get a somewhat dry hit after about 2-3 seconds.
 

Flightmedic76

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I ran into the same problem with micro coils. They did seem to run dry quickly due to the really quick heat up, even at lower wattages. I tried using standard Japanese cotton and Cotton Bacon, and neither made a difference. I'd be much more inclined to try micros again if or when I try messing with TC.
 

bondo

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I've been interested in giving this a try just havent gotten around to it yet, I will have to give it a go on my tfv4 rba.

I really like the dual super nano in my rda's for the moment , the dragon wicking method that neunerball recommended is definitely helping. I think part of the issue is that the super nano's I build heat up so fast that the wick just cant keep up, even when there is juice in the well I still get a somewhat dry hit after about 2-3 seconds.

You'll have to adjust your target res but another thing to try that will slow down the ramp up and increase production is dual Snano parallels.
I've no experience with the omega so I can't say for sure that they'd fit but it's worth a shot.
 

njdevil

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I ran into the same problem with micro coils. They did seem to run dry quickly due to the really quick heat up, even at lower wattages. I tried using standard Japanese cotton and Cotton Bacon, and neither made a difference. I'd be much more inclined to try micros again if or when I try messing with TC.

I love tc , especially since my new SnowWolf came yesterday, I agree I'm gonna give the micros a try with it once I get some TI wire, it's impossible to do with Ni since the coils have to be spaced evenly.

A tip for when you try TC Flight, if you try NI use a Ni Kanthal twist the temp control still works just like it's supposed to and the kanthal gives it alot more surface area , I have been testing it out on my mutation rda and it's really nice and easy to build just a standard 3mm wrap.
 

njdevil

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You'll have to adjust your target res but another thing to try that will slow down the ramp up and increase production is dual Snano parallels.
I've no experience with the omega so I can't say for sure that they'd fit but it's worth a shot.

Great tip Bondo, I didn't even consider trying that !

That might be a little tough in the Omega but I just got a Phenotype L yesterday and that would probably work perfect in there.

Thanks man.
 

bondo

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Great tip Bondo, I didn't even consider trying that !

That might be a little tough in the Omega but I just got a Phenotype L yesterday and that would probably work perfect in there.

Thanks man.
You're welcome. I love dual parallel micros but anything below 1mm ID just doesn't do it for me.

I love tc , especially since my new SnowWolf came yesterday, I agree I'm gonna give the micros a try with it once I get some TI wire, it's impossible to do with Ni since the coils have to be spaced evenly.

Another tip to try for evenly space NI coils is to straighten the wire and then wrap a slightly loose parallel. Tighten it up on your mandrel but leave the spacing loose,nip the folded lead and then while it's still on your mandrel,unscrew them and you're left with two identical and evenly spaced coils.
This trick works great with kanthal and N80 but it'll be tricky with NI. Nano and Snano would be even harder but I think it could be done with a gentle touch and a good deal of patience.
Good luck.;)
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