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Wicking the TFV4

Nailz

FUCK the FDA
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Just got mine yesterday, 1st build leaked bad, so re wicked, and packed a lot more cotton, the cotton covered the whole bottom of the deck, just made sure I didn't pack in the juice channels, and so far it has been working good on this 2nd wicking.
 

Saddletramp1200

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have been eyeballin' those. I just can't see springing for 30.00 for one. I have more tanks than Erwin Rommel. I'm going to wait till there dirt cheap, (or I can no longer stand it) & score one. I am so pleased to see how this Hobby has advanced. :)
 

amali.supafly

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Hey Nailz. Did you pack in at least a bit in the juice hole?


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Nailz

FUCK the FDA
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Hey Nailz. Did you pack in at least a bit in the juice hole?


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Not in the hole, just have the cotton laid on top of it and fluffed out to the sides, so covers the whole deck.
 

amali.supafly

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
I have solved the leaking issue guys!

1f8053061b3ef61e00b4760947bdb6f3.jpg


This picture is showing my airflow base and rba deck screwed in hand tightened. Take a look at the juice canals. Notice the white coloured thing protruding? That's the rubber washer which was apparently squeezed and it dislodged.
This means that the washer is not seating properly.
I don't know if this happens to others or not. It didn't happen to my friend. Anyway.

My solution:
Do your wicking style. Cap the chimney.
Tighten the rba slowly to the airflow base and stop when there is resistance. Check that the mod or ohm meter is able to read the ohms. And the rest is history.

Anybody else facing this same thing?


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Saddletramp1200

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I watch you guys, I watch youtube, I'm impressed enough that I just got one from FT. $31.00. Very seldom I buy full price, but hey, got to have it. ;) The most huge jynormus ass kickin' cloud I will ever do ain't been done yet. I have too practice more, :cool:
 

amali.supafly

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
I have a subtank mini and the billow v2. This tfv4 has denser clouds and richer flavour imo.. Good call. Just be wary of the hardware issues you might encounter.


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Saddletramp1200

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks! I just double dog dare my shit to break down. I am a Mod Build freak also. I will solider a new chip into a Mod if it looks funny at Me. Almost the best Hobby I have ever had. :)
 

Saddletramp1200

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Fast Tech calls me when they need something:p I have Vacuum tubes for Motorola radios somewhere. There is a sense of pride when a person can make something work from scratch. Bought Mod kits $ 10.00 cheaper than retail. Spent hours enjoying building them. Our version of model cars, & airplanes. :)
 

Discobob

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No issues for me that had been brought up, I have the dual rba and it's wonderful, can't say enough about the tank it's just bad ass!!!!
 

Condensation

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Just got mine yesterday, 1st build leaked bad, so re wicked, and packed a lot more cotton, the cotton covered the whole bottom of the deck, just made sure I didn't pack in the juice channels, and so far it has been working good on this 2nd wicking.
Thanks, I added quite a bit more cotton this time and packed it neatly over the top of the juice channels. So far so good.

I have solved the leaking issue guys!



This picture is showing my airflow base and rba deck screwed in hand tightened. Take a look at the juice canals. Notice the white coloured thing protruding? That's the rubber washer which was apparently squeezed and it dislodged.
This means that the washer is not seating properly.
I don't know if this happens to others or not. It didn't happen to my friend. Anyway.

My solution:
Do your wicking style. Cap the chimney.
Tighten the rba slowly to the airflow base and stop when there is resistance. Check that the mod or ohm meter is able to read the ohms. And the rest is history.

Anybody else facing this same thing?


Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk
this last time rewicking it I noticed the chimney o-ring didn't fully seat so I screwed the RDA to the chimney then screwed the coil into the base. The way juice was pouring out of there the first time I think it went up the juice channels and out under the coil. I pulled it apart so fast when it was leaking every where I didn't take a peak at the cotton make sure it filled nicely above the juice channels. Hoping I didn't brushed the cotton in front of the coils instead of towards the juice channels the first time.

I'm keeping an eye on it and only filled it right before the chimney o-ring for this time then I'll fill it up if it doesn't leak.
photo.jpg


Thanks for the insight added in this thread it helped.
 

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