Hello, I was thinking of getting into mechanical mods and found one by VGOD that I was thinking about getting. I was going to buy alien coils so I didn't have to make ones myself. I heard mechnical mods can be dangerous, but if I use premade coils would it still be as dangerous and risky to use. Also if I use a battery from a trusted manufacturer do I have to be as careful?
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Would using premade coils still make a mechanical mod as dangerous?
- Thread starter DaBears852
- Start date
The short answer is yes! A mechanical mod is just that, completely mechanical, there are no safeties built in like a regulated mod. Yes you need to be just as cautious with pre-made coils as you do with DIY coils. The only difference being is you are trusting that the manufacturer accurately checked the resistance of the coil. Personally I wouldn't take anyones "word for it". And you should ALWAYS use batteries from Sony, HG, or Samsung, never use re-wraps in a mech. You should also have a very intimate knowledge of Ohms law. A mechanical mod is only as dangerous as the person using it. There are certain risks that go with it that you don't have with a regulated mod. Those risks can easily be minimized with knowledge.
It Could quite certainly be More risky, depending on your source for coils. Coil resistance has been notoriously mislabeled by some manufacturers of having a higher resistance than Actual - they might say 0.3 ohms per coil and be wrong, or not say what resistance at all, etc - if the resistance is 0.1 ohm Per Coil, for instance, and you use two, your ohm reading will be 0.05 and that is quite dangerous for a single battery mechanical!! - if they were made in a factory, or by Anyone besides yourself, there is AT LEAST as much risk - maybe more
Tl:dr
ALWAYS INSTALL AND TEST COILS WITH AN OHM READER OR REGULATED MOD TO CHECK FOR SHORTS AND TO MEASURE THE RESISTANCE/OHMS
Hi and welcome to VU.
You always have to be careful, but using a trusted brand give you a little more room for error. For example.. a good, quality cell might heat to 100C about 7 seconds slower than the cheaper, knock off brand.
I also suggest getting a non-hybrid type (has a pos 510 pin) to help avoid hard shorts.
Notice the adjustable 510 pin on positive end.. This helps prevent hard shorts if the plus pin on your atomizer is to short. Some say these don't "hit" quite as hard as a hybrid, but the extra safety is worth it.
You will also want to stick within the Constant Discharge Rate (CDR) of your battery.. example.. 30A 2000mah high drain cell can handle aprox 0.15 ohm at its CDR whereas a 20A 3000Mah high drain can handle 0.20 ohm build and be within the CDR. NEVER use a battery that gives a "pulse" rating. This is just a marketing ploy. Any battery will PULSE according to how much resistance, but how long did they pulse for and how many times? Mooch tests batteries on a 5 second fire with 30 second rest, done several times. It the cell stays below 100C it passes Mooch's "OK" to use test.
To be honest, if you are going to get into mechanicals, you should be able to make your own coils.
here is a good calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html
Also inspect your battery wraps for tears and pin holes. Torn wraps are one of the causes of hard shorts in cells. (even the sides of your mech mod are conductive as a - pole, not just the bottom) A hole in the side of the wrap can cause an arc and hard short.
And.. keep your mods very clean. Dirt creates resistance, resistance creates heat.
As mentioned... don't trust what the manufacturer prints on the coil.. test them yourself before use with an ohm meter.
You always have to be careful, but using a trusted brand give you a little more room for error. For example.. a good, quality cell might heat to 100C about 7 seconds slower than the cheaper, knock off brand.
I also suggest getting a non-hybrid type (has a pos 510 pin) to help avoid hard shorts.
Notice the adjustable 510 pin on positive end.. This helps prevent hard shorts if the plus pin on your atomizer is to short. Some say these don't "hit" quite as hard as a hybrid, but the extra safety is worth it.
You will also want to stick within the Constant Discharge Rate (CDR) of your battery.. example.. 30A 2000mah high drain cell can handle aprox 0.15 ohm at its CDR whereas a 20A 3000Mah high drain can handle 0.20 ohm build and be within the CDR. NEVER use a battery that gives a "pulse" rating. This is just a marketing ploy. Any battery will PULSE according to how much resistance, but how long did they pulse for and how many times? Mooch tests batteries on a 5 second fire with 30 second rest, done several times. It the cell stays below 100C it passes Mooch's "OK" to use test.
To be honest, if you are going to get into mechanicals, you should be able to make your own coils.
here is a good calculator
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.html
Also inspect your battery wraps for tears and pin holes. Torn wraps are one of the causes of hard shorts in cells. (even the sides of your mech mod are conductive as a - pole, not just the bottom) A hole in the side of the wrap can cause an arc and hard short.
And.. keep your mods very clean. Dirt creates resistance, resistance creates heat.
As mentioned... don't trust what the manufacturer prints on the coil.. test them yourself before use with an ohm meter.
Meaning this genuinely in the nicest possible way, the fact you don't know the answer to that would imply to me you're not quite ready for a mech.
With a mech, you are the safety mechanism. That means you have to understand all the potential points of failure and how the whole system works together.
The post above is a brilliant breakdown of what you really need to be able to understand each point fully before going down the mech route. Even then, not a bad thing to have an experienced friend on hand to make sure you're not missing anything.
Please don't take this in a negative light, just that not blowing your face off is worth the time it takes to really know your stuff!
Luckily you're in good hands here.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With a mech, you are the safety mechanism. That means you have to understand all the potential points of failure and how the whole system works together.
The post above is a brilliant breakdown of what you really need to be able to understand each point fully before going down the mech route. Even then, not a bad thing to have an experienced friend on hand to make sure you're not missing anything.
Please don't take this in a negative light, just that not blowing your face off is worth the time it takes to really know your stuff!
Luckily you're in good hands here.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk