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Zeus dual RTA (being a lil b!tch)

P35

Member For 4 Years
Afternoon Underground -

Stuck on a dilemma that I cant seem to wrap my head around. My wife's Zeus has been working great for many months - she loves the thing. Come time for a rebuild, I drop a set of some framed staple 2-28/4-.1*3/36 Ni80 .30ohm 3mm coils in it. - LET THE GAMES BEGIN -

Problem one - atomizer short (get the same thing on my mod), the thing is leaking like a siv when it has NEVER had this problem before. Checked the 510 pin on the bottom and if I tighten it down, it reads an atomizer short on her mod. If I loosen it a quarter turn, it leaks.

Problem two - three wicks later (and one of the finest bundles of cotton I think I've thrown in some coils) shes drinking more juice than shes inhaling. It's just constantly flooding. I thought maybe the other wicks were done in haste so I took my time and made sure it was perfect. Still f##ked up and gurgling in it.

She runs it at 70w at its reading exactly at .10ohms on the mod so I know shes not under or over on the energy level. I've checked her o-rings and they all seem good to go. I took it apart fully and rinsed it and inspected it thinking ok, maybe there's a foreign contaminant somewhere - nope.

She broke down this morning on the way to work and just bought some tank with a throw in atomizer in it - but I know she wants her tank back. Any ideas???

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PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I dunno about the short, unless the coils are too-low and you say they are not (can't be both). On a kayfun, I once had horrible taste and it turned out I had smelted the insulator: edges were fine, but on diasm it was clear and obvious I had toasted it.

The leaking makes me suspect a blown or missing O-ring - I took apart a Boreas clone for cleaning and on reasm it would dump the whole tank. Did that twice before I tore it down again and realized an Oring had fallen off/out. D'oh.. Replaced that and it worked better than it had before.
 
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P35

Member For 4 Years
I dunno about the short, unless the coils are too-low and you say they are not (can't be both). On a kayfun, I once had horrible taste and it turned out I had smelted the insulator: edges were fine, but on diasm it was clear and obvious I had toasted it.

The leaking makes me suspect a blown or missing O-ring - I took apart a Boreas clone for cleaning and on reasm it would dump the whole tank. Did that twice before I tore it down again and realized an Oring had fallen off/out. D'oh.. Replaced that and it worked better than it had before.
So the coils are roughly the same length they were before the build (look to be right in line with where they should be). I suppose I could through a new set in tonight just to see what happens but I dont suspect that to be the cause.

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gadget!

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Take the top cap off and see if you still get the "Shorted" issue. If the coils touch the top cap they will short out.
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
Take the top cap off and see if you still get the "Shorted" issue. If the coils touch the top cap they will short out.
I'll take a picture and upload it tonight, but they aren't long enough to touch the top or the side skirt things. I'd say they are just barely as tall as the side skirts that are attached to the build deck.

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gadget!

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I'm not sure if you have an ohm meter for testing your build but if you don't I would recommend getting one.
A lot of people just use an old regulated box mod so they can dry fire the coils to get the hot spots out and get a general reading of the ohms.
Another advantage to this is that you can test your build before you assemble everything. If everything checks out on the build/test mod or ohm meter but when you put it back together it reads "short" it's more than likely touching something.

If you don't have anything to do this with I'm sure I have a mod laying around here that I would give you to have for testing.

Sent from a Galaxy far far away!
 

P35

Member For 4 Years
I'm not sure if you have an ohm meter for testing your build but if you don't I would recommend getting one.
A lot of people just use an old regulated box mod so they can dry fire the coils to get the hot spots out and get a general reading of the ohms.
Another advantage to this is that you can test your build before you assemble everything. If everything checks out on the build/test mod or ohm meter but when you put it back together it reads "short" it's more than likely touching something.

If you don't have anything to do this with I'm sure I have a mod laying around here that I would give you to have for testing.

Sent from a Galaxy far far away!
Appreciate that a bunch gadget!!

I do have one though. And when I put the deck on it, it's just reading right at .100 ohms - same as the mod. Then when it hits the mod, and I dry fire it, I cant see any hot spots, the coils are all lighting up evenly - and oddly enough ITS NOT FREAKING OUT. It's only when the tank is together - juice and cotton- and your ready to drag away that it starts the "short" issue ... which now that I have that all typed out sounds like there is a metal on metal situation at play somewhere????

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St.Roostifer

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
The framed staples are thicker coils so they will have a slightly larger outer diameter. It's sounds like they could be touching the side or the top of the domed chimney after its put together.
 

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