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Thoughts on the Noisy Cricket
- Thread starter noejuice
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Can you show them side by side. I'm considering getting one depending on size.
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Just looked up the Lucifer - $180 for a plastic mech mod? No thanks. Does yours work in parallel mode? Only watched one review but the guy hammered that thing.
Yea it works in both since its been revised, the review was done on the first batch and it was horrible...
I suggest if your money isnt as long buy a clone...most are pretty damn close to the Authentics these days, they just dont hold the same value or have the same customer service after the sale...I bought the Sniper clone and its actually better then the Authentics Ive seen....
I see the Lucifer clone is not much more than NC, <$25. I like some of the features but not the size, and it's not aesthetically pleasing to my eye. If I see something that really pushes a hot button, I'll cough up some bank. But if it aint in stock and I have time to think about it, it's hard to justify paying the authentic price over a clone. Sometimes I do kind of feel bad for contributing to the rip off of the designers, and if they priced them reasonably instead of stupid expensive I would buy them. If the clone builders can sell something for 10 bucks that the authentic builders are asking 100, I think they could make a tidy profit at 50. I would pay 5 times the price of a clone for the real thing, but they can pound sand if they want 10 times. Hear ya on the no customer service thing for clones, and really anything from china - I just consider them an "as-is" purchase and if they crap out they hit the trash can.
Hey...I can afford it and I still buy clones, usually more then one-they are good for spare parts or extras that you cant get anywhere else..
Sometimes I feel I should buy the clone just to say fuck you to the people selling the original...like Im starting to feel that way about the Goon RDA as I have had my order pushed back 3 times now in 3 weeks and promised next week, yet Im seeing all these people all over the place getting them for free every week....Explain that one...That isnt what I would call doing the right thing to the paying consumer..
Most of the time I buy the Authentic, sometimes the Authentic is all there is like the Exodus...sometimes the clone is all thats available, dont justify why you buy clones-there's always a good reason and there's always a good reason to buy the Authentics also but the choice is yours.
Roger that. This is actually one of my less expensive hobbies. After awhile they all start to add up and corners must be cut lol...
Hello everyone on this thread
Thanks for all the info and comments
Finally got my big blue beast and I'm loving it! Gonna be my go to summer mod for sure.
.6 dual Clapton on a twisted messes
Booya!
It's bigger on the inside...
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Thanks for all the info and comments
Finally got my big blue beast and I'm loving it! Gonna be my go to summer mod for sure.
.6 dual Clapton on a twisted messes
Booya!
It's bigger on the inside...
Sent from my shoe phone using Tapa Toe Pro
Dang that blue looks nice, especially with the blue TM. Nooo....must resist...will not... buy... another NC....
Just got my first one, now to build a coil for it...
What he said. Aliens even better. Using some of Purecoils 1ohm (.5 dual) aliens in a Petri 2 on the NC and it just flat kicks ass.
Yeah, I figured I'd throw on the freakshow mini I was using on my mini volt just as a test run, 28g fused claptons .41Ω. Pretty damn awesome, the power of that little bugger, just wow. Picked up a few CHEAP RDAs a couple weeks back just to start playing with RDAs again. Going to have to get a good one now. The Tsunami looks great and priced right, but then there's the Petri and TM² clones... I'm a frugal bastard and not willing to shed the money for authentics on some of them.
I'm a notorious cheapskate when it comes to authentics, especially rda's. I did recently order an original Petri V2 after using and really liking a couple of clones. Not because the clones are such bad quality, they're not. Probably won't happen again, but this has become my favorite dripper and just felt it was the right thing to do. The authentic builders are fools in my opinion to ask so much for their product, profit margin would be greater on a higher volume/lower per unit price. I paid a little less than 25 bucks for 2 clones, and the one authentic was 85. If the clone builders can build the thing and sell it for 12 bucks and make a profit, I'm guessing that the authentic builders could make good money at half what they charge.
Yup exactly, though I hold no ill will towards those guys, they come up with a product they can charge whatever they want. But, I'm not going to feel bad about buying a clone. Geekvape has it right IMO, might just go with the Tsunami just to round out the collection
I have a Tsunami clone which was all that was available/not preorder. Not real impressed. It's pretty good, but doesn't hold a candle to the Petri imho. Don't know about the authentic, but drips tips are screw in on this thing, no 510 adapter. You get 3 - all short. And with framed staples the top gets hot so I have to be careful and that just pisses me off. Air flow is huge, I've got it throttled down to 1/4 open, so if you like airy you'll love this. Won't be buying the authentic.
edit - I may be hasty here, perhaps I have it under built. The deck is huge and I'm running 6 wraps at 3.5mm i.d. and .15ohm. Probably needs more wraps and surface area.
And I fixed the drip tip problem. Cut down and drilled out the cone shaped delrin tip and made it into a 510 adapter.
edit - I may be hasty here, perhaps I have it under built. The deck is huge and I'm running 6 wraps at 3.5mm i.d. and .15ohm. Probably needs more wraps and surface area.
And I fixed the drip tip problem. Cut down and drilled out the cone shaped delrin tip and made it into a 510 adapter.
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As I recall the clone is of the promo version which had some major reworking which is why the authentic was taking so long to be released. Overall I'm still debating on what to get, but I think I've come to a conclusion that I'd rather side airflow than bottom. I still might pick up the authentic simply to fill out the collection of Geekvape products
. I'm sure the authentic will come with an adapter, the others did. And the top cap heating, could be the materials used? Good to know on the airflow though as I don't think that's changed, though I could be wrong.
Man, Ive been so on the fence about getting a Noisy Cricket (or any mech in general). Never had a mech mod, all mine are regulated VW mods, but I feel like I just need a mech in my life for some simple, no frills power. On the other hand, all the "shits blowin up, yo" stories kind of put me off to it. I dont need my face on fire and teeth all crumbly and shit, its hard enough to get laid as is.
I mean, I know and follow ohms law on my regulated mods and keep my shit in line with the battery limits. But once in a while Ill get my mod throwing up the "Atomizer Short" sign, and I cant help up just imagining that if it was a mech I might have had a bad day that day. But damn it, its so cheap and sweet looking and I want one.
So, for real, should I really be that paranoid about mechs? Is the NC too much for a mech noob being series and all?
I mean, I know and follow ohms law on my regulated mods and keep my shit in line with the battery limits. But once in a while Ill get my mod throwing up the "Atomizer Short" sign, and I cant help up just imagining that if it was a mech I might have had a bad day that day. But damn it, its so cheap and sweet looking and I want one.
So, for real, should I really be that paranoid about mechs? Is the NC too much for a mech noob being series and all?
In this case your "paranoia" is simple legitimate concern. If you know what you're doing it's not an issue. Strait up, you're unlikely to be pushing amps on the NC, or at least doing so and enjoying the vape. To hit 30 amps you need a .28Ω but that means you're running at 200-250w, pretty damn intense. However you have that hybrid cap which means you have to be aware of the connection with the battery.
I don't know if I'd suggest it as a first mech, there's lot of little weird things with mechs to be aware of, but god it is nice. Machining is nice, button is nice, and really my only complaint is I wish it wasn't a hybrid cap but those have their benefits as well.
I don't know if I'd suggest it as a first mech, there's lot of little weird things with mechs to be aware of, but god it is nice. Machining is nice, button is nice, and really my only complaint is I wish it wasn't a hybrid cap but those have their benefits as well.
What about sitting it on a heatsink with adjustable 510 pin?
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Yes, this is common for questionable rda pins and I grabbed one from 3fvape just for that reason.
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I got a Kepler heatsink that did not work. It has a 2 screw/piece center post that has poor conductivity. Look for a one piece center pin.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131714677008?var=431091269246
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131714677008?var=431091269246
CrazyChef
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Okay, so I just ordered two of these. One in stainless steel and one in brass. The SS is for the silver NC, and the brass will look good on the black NC that I have on order.
The brass one on the black cricket with the petri looks real nice.
So I finally good a good build in this guy and it's 316L! Single core Clapton 32g/24g, 3mm ID, 10 wraps. Ohms out to .56 and though that seems low, it doesn't get as hot as you'd think. Flavor is excellent!!
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Has anyone used the LG HB6 in the cricket? If so, what was your experience for battery life and how low did you build. Thanks
I always run one on mine, helps with heat with the added benefit of extending the pin.
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1500mah couldn't last very long, but the 30a continuous had me interested. 4.2 volts divided by .15 ohms would be 28 amps so they would allow for some all stainless steel fused clapton wire builds. I think...Or would they be too hot of a vape? I can stuff enough wraps (9) in some of my drippers to get the ohms up around .18
Still talking NC or on another mech? Because it'd be 8.4v not 4.2 if so.
I'm using the HB2's in my NC right now, they don't last long but work great while they have enough charge. Using those and the VTC4s, rotating them.
Shit, I knew something was wrong, what a dork. This is why I ask lol.
That really a 20 amp battery that can be run up to 30 amps.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ts-a-20a-cell-that-can-be-used-to-30a.684876/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ts-a-20a-cell-that-can-be-used-to-30a.684876/
I remember a clone RDA I bought a couple years ago that wasn't even released to the reviewers yet, and I had a freaking clone in my hands 2 weeks after ordering. That was the Patriot V1. I compared it to the "real" thing and the only difference was that the clone had hex head screws instead of Phillips, otherwise they were the same.
CrazyChef
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Huh. I thought I read something like that before, but thought that I was mistaken. Either way, I was quite happy with my 25Rs, but thought I would try the HB6s. Really not worth it, in my opinion.
CrazyChef
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That was the very first RDA that I ever bought, and it was a clone also. The damn posi pin spins like a merry-go-round now.
Just like the Plume Veil...
Yup, that's why I got the HBs, Still use the VTCs in the high 20's but I get nervous when I hit the 30amp level. Dang information, makes for paranoia!
Route as hell. I call it the reaper
So, my new red and blue noisy crickets have arrived. This is the best-made run yet. They haven't really changed the design at all... ...they just refined it a tad
The machining is better all around. The bodies have a bit of a smoother cut on the top and bottom edges. The edges are still sharp, but not as rough, if that makes sense. You can feel the right angle, but it doesn't feel like they're digging into my skin. The bottom plate seems to have a slightly closer fit. It appears to be the same size and the body thickness is the same. It's just more snug. The screws that hold it in are snug and flush. One thing I noticed about the beveling on the first two's bottom screw holes is that they were just slightly uneven, leading them to back out and eventually strip (still remember when the bottom on my bare one popped off when I went to screw in the button :/ ) Hopefully, these will hold up better. I can't tell if the black screws are anodized or if that's actually a black oil finish (which I find makes them stay secure better - you'll see the same thing on the post grubs for the Griffin RTA and those suckers really stay put!)
The threads are so much smoother and go deeper into the battery compartment. On the first two runs that the did of the NC, the threading wasn't great, right out of the case. It was cheap, clone-quality stuff. Kind of shoddy, really. There was catching and very visible inconsistencies. They were gritty.
I remember running my thumb parallel to the threads on the first two and feeling little dips. They also felt really sharp. None of that with these. The new male threads still have some minor inconsistencies, but I had to really look for them. They feel buttery-smooth when you actually screw them in. They also don't "snag" like the original run did. When I go to unscrew the atty, the topper still stays with it (which is good,) but it doesn't lock into the body... ...it gives right away. The tolerances are definitely tighter.
They've also slightly modified the button. The plastic top part has a thicker, knurled edge. It really works, too. Doesn't solve the coin-slot stripping problem of course, but makes it less likely that you will need a coin to unscrew the button. The insulator material has changed. I think the top indentation might be a bit deeper too. Hard to tell because the indentation on my old one is beat-up. I'm not sure if the material itself has changed, but it has a textured feel to it. The inner contours of the button housing are the same, but the grooves on the inner lip of the button are about twice as deep and wide. The lip itself is just a teeny bit longer, too.
It's always lined up this way. The bigger gap gives it little wiggle, which seems to help keep it from sticking. The extra lateral freedom keeps it from catching on the housing like the older, more snug one tends to do.
The anodizing is gorgeous, too. The bottom plates are anodized in black. It's pretty sweet. The brushed finish is only on the flat sides... ...the rounded-off parts have a polished texture and not nearly as much streaking, which gives it a nicer look, imo. I just hope it holds up. I love it. I wish more mech mods had anodized electroplating like this. It just looks and feels so much better than paint and polymer.
All of these little changes don't sound like much, but they make a big difference when it comes to the quality of the mod. It looks, works, and feels like a significantly higher-quality mod than the initial runs. This is about the build quality I wanted from my first two. I don't think I can use my old ones anymore.
Pics when I feel like it.
The machining is better all around. The bodies have a bit of a smoother cut on the top and bottom edges. The edges are still sharp, but not as rough, if that makes sense. You can feel the right angle, but it doesn't feel like they're digging into my skin. The bottom plate seems to have a slightly closer fit. It appears to be the same size and the body thickness is the same. It's just more snug. The screws that hold it in are snug and flush. One thing I noticed about the beveling on the first two's bottom screw holes is that they were just slightly uneven, leading them to back out and eventually strip (still remember when the bottom on my bare one popped off when I went to screw in the button :/ ) Hopefully, these will hold up better. I can't tell if the black screws are anodized or if that's actually a black oil finish (which I find makes them stay secure better - you'll see the same thing on the post grubs for the Griffin RTA and those suckers really stay put!)
The threads are so much smoother and go deeper into the battery compartment. On the first two runs that the did of the NC, the threading wasn't great, right out of the case. It was cheap, clone-quality stuff. Kind of shoddy, really. There was catching and very visible inconsistencies. They were gritty.
I remember running my thumb parallel to the threads on the first two and feeling little dips. They also felt really sharp. None of that with these. The new male threads still have some minor inconsistencies, but I had to really look for them. They feel buttery-smooth when you actually screw them in. They also don't "snag" like the original run did. When I go to unscrew the atty, the topper still stays with it (which is good,) but it doesn't lock into the body... ...it gives right away. The tolerances are definitely tighter.
They've also slightly modified the button. The plastic top part has a thicker, knurled edge. It really works, too. Doesn't solve the coin-slot stripping problem of course, but makes it less likely that you will need a coin to unscrew the button. The insulator material has changed. I think the top indentation might be a bit deeper too. Hard to tell because the indentation on my old one is beat-up. I'm not sure if the material itself has changed, but it has a textured feel to it. The inner contours of the button housing are the same, but the grooves on the inner lip of the button are about twice as deep and wide. The lip itself is just a teeny bit longer, too.
It's always lined up this way. The bigger gap gives it little wiggle, which seems to help keep it from sticking. The extra lateral freedom keeps it from catching on the housing like the older, more snug one tends to do.
The anodizing is gorgeous, too. The bottom plates are anodized in black. It's pretty sweet. The brushed finish is only on the flat sides... ...the rounded-off parts have a polished texture and not nearly as much streaking, which gives it a nicer look, imo. I just hope it holds up. I love it. I wish more mech mods had anodized electroplating like this. It just looks and feels so much better than paint and polymer.
All of these little changes don't sound like much, but they make a big difference when it comes to the quality of the mod. It looks, works, and feels like a significantly higher-quality mod than the initial runs. This is about the build quality I wanted from my first two. I don't think I can use my old ones anymore.
Pics when I feel like it.
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