2 New batteries both say Low Ohms or Atomizer Short, but never vape

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

I got two 50w batteries, both vv and vw, one TC capable.. When they arrived I had a Kanger Protank2 or 4(i forget) but one battery read Atomizer Short and the other said Low Ohms..so I bought a tfv8 tank just to change up the Atomizer feed..I tried it on both and they said Low Ohms. I took a wrap or two off the 26g coils that I replaced the factory installed fused Clapton w and the TC capable mod initially made a sound like it wanted to vape( which it also did with my protank) but then read Atomizer Short again. I tried it again on the other battery and it said the same as always Low Ohms...Why is that happening? How could two different brand new batteries not read two different tank atomizers? Ones an Invader mini. The others a Bec Pro by Smok.

 

[OhmzRaw]

What is the mods reading of the coil resistance?

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

What is the mods reading of the coil resistance?

It's not.. Just says Low Ohms or Atomizer short... When it tried to work for a split second before I took off a wrap the TC capable Invader mini just briefly read .7

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

Taking off the wrap or two did however finally get the Invader to regularly at least acknowledge my Atomizer and ask if it was new or the same as last time, but even with that it just ends up say Atomizer Short after I make the selection and then probably Low Ohms.

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

Taking off the wrap or two did however finally get the Invader to regularly at least acknowledge my Atomizer and ask if it was new or the same as last time, but even with that it just ends up say Atomizer Short after I make the selection, and then probably Low Ohms.

 

[Lefty]

The TC mod (the battery is what goes inside) the Invader has a minimum resistance of 0.16 ohms in wattage mode and 0.1 ohms in TC mode. Something it determines for itself based on whether the ohms reading changes after firing. The Bec Pro has a minimum resistance of 0.3 ohms. The odds that both are defective are not high. The low ohms or atomizer short reading is usually just that, a shorting coil. I'm not familiar with the Bec pro but I do have an Invader. Are you screwing the atty onto the loosened top cap then turning the topcap to make contact? That's how the Invader makes adjustment on the connection. The odds that the resistance is actually too low for that one are minimal. That leaves an actual short. Have you tested your atty's on an ohm meter or on a known good mod? Taking a wrap or two off is going to lower your resistance so is not likely to help. The fused clapton factory coil is nominally 0.57 ohms so should be in the range of both. Try using a factory coil in the TFV8 and see what you get making sure the coil is tight. Assuming you used 26G kanthal then either will only operate in wattage mode though the Invader might show a temp reading until it determines the coil type. Odds are high that you need to recheck your coil build and installation for a mistake causing the short.

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

The TC mod (the battery is what goes inside) the Invader has a minimum resistance of 0.16 ohms in wattage mode and 0.1 ohms in TC mode. Something it determines for itself based on whether the ohms reading changes after firing. The Bec Pro has a minimum resistance of 0.3 ohms. The odds that both are defective are not high. The low ohms or atomizer short reading is usually just that, a shorting coil. I'm not familiar with the Bec pro but I do have an Invader. Are you screwing the atty onto the loosened top cap then turning the topcap to make contact? That's how the Invader makes adjustment on the connection. The odds that the resistance is actually too low for that one are minimal. That leaves an actual short. Have you tested your atty's on an ohm meter or on a known good mod? Taking a wrap or two off is going to lower your resistance so is not likely to help. The fused clapton factory coil is nominally 0.57 ohms so should be in the range of both. Try using a factory coil in the TFV8 and see what you get making sure the coil is tight. Assuming you used 26G kanthal then either will only operate in wattage mode though the Invader might show a temp reading until it determines the coil type. Odds are high that you need to recheck your coil build and installation for a mistake causing the short.

OK I'll try what you say, but I also thought fewer wraps meant higher ohms just like thicker wire meant lower gauge and such.

 

[Lefty]

Nope, fewer wraps means lower ohms just as thicker wire means lower ohms. Lower gauge number - lower ohms. For a guide to what you might expect with different wires and coil sizes.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

So I just did the your screwing on method without changing atomizers and in stead of just saying Atomizer Short it makes the just about to vape but doesn't sound every time I click and still says ATM shrt

 

[Lefty]

Then you very likely have a short.

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

It's reading .17 on the new coil. Idk how it vapes yet

 

[Lefty]

Well, 0.17 will work on the Invader but not on the Bec. If you want to be able to use it on both you will need one that's at least 0.3 ohms. And it needs to be kanthal or stainless (or nichrome) for the Bec. The Invader only does TC with Nickel. But it will do wattage with anything except nickel or titanium which aren't for wattage use on anything.

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

I never understood the difference in .17 and .1 range...but anyway it produced vapor but started and started leaking real bad. Gotta clean up and work on it a little but the vapor isn't so strong.. I don't get why the rba doesn't work.. How many 2mm raps would make a .3 ohm?

 

[Lefty]

50 watts isn't much to drive a TFV8 by all accounts. If it's leaking it's probably flooding as well which will kill vapor production. Look at the coil calculator at Steam-Engine to see what you need for wraps to achieve your desired resistance at whatever coil I.D. and wire type and gauge. Make sure the coil isn't making contact anywhere except the leg connections. 2.5mm or 3mm I.D. is probably closer to the size you want. Check youtube for vids on building and wicking the rba, there might be something useful.

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

50 watts isn't much to drive a TFV8 by all accounts. If it's leaking it's probably flooding as well which will kill vapor production. Look at the coil calculator at Steam-Engine to see what you need for wraps to achieve your desired resistance at whatever coil I.D. and wire type and gauge. Make sure the coil isn't making contact anywhere except the leg connections. 2.5mm or 3mm I.D. is probably closer to the size you want. Check youtube for vids on building and wicking the rba, there might be something useful.

Thanks Lefty. The Q4 is giving me good vapor at 50w but it doesn't hold liquid long enough for me to enjoy it. I looked at a fix it video on YouTube and it's still not working..but thanks for helping me

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

I also got some .25 juggernaut coils. Do you think they'd fix my rba issue?

 

[Lefty]

Leaks are usually due to missing or damaged o-rings. Wicking could also contribute but that shouldn't be an issue with a factory coil. The shorting with the rba could be due to the coil touching the base or sides of the rba, the rba not seated or installed properly or just a defective rba. Look online for a schematic breakdown of the parts for the TFV8 so that you can be sure that everything is where it's supposed to be and that you don't have a missing or damaged o-ring or insulator. If you are doing dual coils on the rba remember that doing so makes the resistance half of that of the individual coils. For an 0.3 resistance you would need two 0.6 ohm coils.

 

[Cpt.Black'Briefs]

Leaks are usually due to missing or damaged o-rings. Wicking could also contribute but that shouldn't be an issue with a factory coil. The shorting with the rba could be due to the coil touching the base or sides of the rba, the rba not seated or installed properly or just a defective rba. Look online for a schematic breakdown of the parts for the TFV8 so that you can be sure that everything is where it's supposed to be and that you don't have a missing or damaged o-ring or insulator. If you are doing dual coils on the rba remember that doing so makes the resistance half of that of the individual coils. For an 0.3 resistance you would need two 0.6 ohm coils.

I forgot about that. The positive or negative post is supposed to be stuck on the base and the others supposed to be detachable, but both of mine are coming off. Crazy