Batteries

[Straydonkey]

I'm getting a laisimo L1 200w mod, I was wondering wich batteries would be best. I would like to use 18650s the ones I have are 3.7 volt 3000 mah, would those be a good choice? I usually vape at 50w but occasionally use 60-80w but for a short time, 50w is my usual.

 

[Vape Fan]

What's aesimi, Lasimo? - L1?

Ah ha!.....I run Samsung 30Q in that wattage range. Good balance of amps/run time.
And there's Molicel P26A for more amps. I get more run time w/ the 30Q but the Molicel isn't bad.

 

[Straydonkey]

They make Snowwolf

 

[gsmit1]

I'm getting a laisimo L1 200w mod, I was wondering wich batteries would be best. I would like to use 18650s the ones I have are 3.7 volt 3000 mah, would those be a good choice? I usually vape at 50w but occasionally use 60-80w but for a short time, 50w is my usual.

Somebody just had a sale on those mods for ten bucks. I have 3 on the way to add to the rest of the stuff I don't need

Just as important as which model batteries to use is making sure that they are known to be authentic (not counterfeits which are everywhere) and that they are in good condition.

The best place to get your batteries is from one of the reliable professional battery vendors online.

Like HERE , HERE , HERE , HERE or HERE .

You need at least 2 pairs, which should be kept together as pairs (married), and a passably decent charger. Right now some of these places have great sales.

 

[Straydonkey]

Yeah, gettin mine for $10 couldn't pass it up. I have brand new good charger so that's covered. Just the other day I had battery throw sparks so I need a new set of 18650s.Thanks for the links and info

 

[Carambrda]

The ratings that are printed on the battery wrap and/or printed on the sticky label (if any) can usually not be trusted in any way, and, the same thing goes for the ratings that the typical online battery vendors─also including trusted battery vendors like the ones that @gsmit1 linked to─just copy onto their website because, for the most part anyway, they fail to make clear distinctions between useless pulse ratings and the true CDR (Continuous Discharge Rating).

"True CDR" = the number reported by Mooch ("Battery Mooch" on YouTube) in his List of Battery Tests, his 18650 Battery Ratings Table, and his Regulated Mod Recommended Batteries Table (2nd thumbnail).

As for the 3.7V rating that you mention, it is the nominal voltage of the battery so, it doesn't say anything much. In fact the 3000mAh rating doesn't say that much either, as the vaping time you get is not determined by it in any way that can be called reasonably accurate. That's just because a battery runs more efficiently the further you stay below the CDR when talking about how many amps your regulated mod draws from each battery, for how you vape. Running it less efficiently causes a battery to waste more of the energy held by it, and, the energy that it can deliver (as a function of how many amps will be drawn from it) is the Wh number, not the mAh number. The CDR is also the recommended safety limit BTW. For a regulated mod, a quick rule of thumb to calculate battery safety is to multiply the CDR by three and then multiply that by the number of batteries that the regulated mod uses. This will give you the wattage number that is recommended to stay at or below. So, for example, with a pair of Samsung 30Q batteries or a pair of Sony/Murata VTC6 batteries, that would be three times 15A times two batteries giving you a maximum limit of up to 90 watts of recommended "safety".

"Safety" = vaping on typical round cells we use for vaping can never be "safe", as none of these batteries were ever designed to be used outside a fully protected battery pack with a protection circuit, and, there are no hard and fast numbers that either are safe or are unsafe to vape on them.

That being said, running a battery less efficiently also causes it to internally heat itself up faster, as does choosing a battery the CDR of which is lower by a few amps. Letting the battery temperature reach up higher due to it generating more heat and not giving it time to cool sufficiently back down again, especially if done repeatedly and for prolonged periods of time, accelerates battery aging. As does pushing the battery harder. So, at 80 watts on a pair of Samsung 30Q batteries, for example, this might or might not become a problem to you, also depending on what's your definition of "occasionally" and "for a short time", and also depending how warm you let your batteries get before you allow them to cool down. (I.e., heavy chain vaping versus longer waiting in order to avoid getting them more than just a tad warm-ish). Despite that holding a battery in your fist for multiple seconds isn't a very accurate way to measure the battery's temperature, you can still feel if it's only lukewarm instead of being fairly hot. It basically just means that you can extend the life of your batteries, significantly, if you try to avoid getting them too hot the whole time and you don't usually push them too hard. Mooch's personal YouTube channel has a video episode with several other useful tips on the particular subject of extending battery life, plus a wealth of the world's best info about batteries-and-vaping. Major parts of the professional experience he has gained comes from designing battery test setups and advanced test procedures for clients in the high tech industry. And he also vapes.

Finally, for more frequent (...) vaping at 80 watts or thereabout on a dual 18650 regulated mod, you might want to consider getting a pair of Molicel P26A batteries. At that power level, the P26A gives more Wh (and more vaping time) than the Samsung 30Q or the Sony/Murata VTC6, and heats up slower... because it is a 25A battery.

 

[nadalama]

The info you posted "3.7 volt, 3000 mAh" is enough to make me nervous. That sounds like a 15 amp battery to me.

Most authentic 20-30 amp batteries don't give you that kind of run time (3000 mAh). In this case more mAh is not better. It means lower amps and more of a chance of problems vaping at higher wattage.

I'm sure @gsmit1 gave you good suggestions, so I'll leave it at that.

 

[Straydonkey]

The ratings that are printed on the battery wrap and/or printed on the sticky label (if any) can usually not be trusted in any way, and, the same thing goes for the ratings that the typical online battery vendors─also including trusted battery vendors like the ones that @gsmit1 linked to─just copy onto their website because, for the most part anyway, they fail to make clear distinctions between useless pulse ratings and the true CDR (Continuous Discharge Rating).

"True CDR" = the number reported by Mooch ("Battery Mooch" on YouTube) in his List of Battery Tests, his 18650 Battery Ratings Table, and his Regulated Mod Recommended Batteries Table (2nd thumbnail).

As for the 3.7V rating that you mention, it is the nominal voltage of the battery so, it doesn't say anything much. In fact the 3000mAh rating doesn't say that much either, as the vaping time you get is not determined by it in any way that can be called reasonably accurate. That's just because a battery runs more efficiently the further you stay below the CDR when talking about how many amps your regulated mod draws from each battery, for how you vape. Running it less efficiently causes a battery to waste more of the energy held by it, and, the energy that it can deliver (as a function of how many amps will be drawn from it) is the Wh number, not the mAh number. The CDR is also the recommended safety limit BTW. For a regulated mod, a quick rule of thumb to calculate battery safety is to multiply the CDR by three and then multiply that by the number of batteries that the regulated mod uses. This will give you the wattage number that is recommended to stay at or below. So, for example, with a pair of Samsung 30Q batteries or a pair of Sony/Murata VTC6 batteries, that would be three times 15A times two batteries giving you a maximum limit of up to 90 watts of recommended "safety".

"Safety" = vaping on typical round cells we use for vaping can never be "safe", as none of these batteries were ever designed to be used outside a fully protected battery pack with a protection circuit, and, there are no hard and fast numbers that either are safe or are unsafe to vape on them.

That being said, running a battery less efficiently also causes it to internally heat itself up faster, as does choosing a battery the CDR of which is lower by a few amps. Letting the battery temperature reach up higher due to it generating more heat and not giving it time to cool sufficiently back down again, especially if done repeatedly and for prolonged periods of time, accelerates battery aging. As does pushing the battery harder. So, at 80 watts on a pair of Samsung 30Q batteries, for example, this might or might not become a problem to you, also depending on what's your definition of "occasionally" and "for a short time", and also depending how warm you let your batteries get before you allow them to cool down. (I.e., heavy chain vaping versus longer waiting in order to avoid getting them more than just a tad warm-ish). Despite that holding a battery in your fist for multiple seconds isn't a very accurate way to measure the battery's temperature, you can still feel if it's only lukewarm instead of being fairly hot. It basically just means that you can extend the life of your batteries, significantly, if you try to avoid getting them too hot the whole time and you don't usually push them too hard. Mooch's personal YouTube channel has a video episode with several other useful tips on the particular subject of extending battery life, plus a wealth of the world's best info about batteries-and-vaping. Major parts of the professional experience he has gained comes from designing battery test setups and advanced test procedures for clients in the high tech industry. And he also vapes.

Finally, for more frequent (...) vaping at 80 watts or thereabout on a dual 18650 regulated mod, you might want to consider getting a pair of Molicel P26A batteries. At that power level, the P26A gives more Wh (and more vaping time) than the Samsung 30Q or the Sony/Murata VTC6, and heats up slower... because it is a 25A battery.

Lot of info thank you

 

[gsmit1]

The ratings that are printed on the battery wrap and/or printed on the sticky label (if any) can usually not be trusted in any way, and, the same thing goes for the ratings that the typical online battery vendors─also including trusted battery vendors like the ones that @gsmit1 linked to

I don't pay attention to anybody's ratings except Mooch. The wrap or the vendor info. What matters is that they're gotten from a place that is reliably known to sell authentic batteries. Which Mooch also recommends a bunch of those as you know.

Allow me please to give a couple principles I follow when dealing with brand new people. These are gleaned from doing computer user support for a very long time.

The first priority it seems to me is making sure they get their hands on authentic batteries. If we don't know with a fair degree of certainty that we're dealing with authentic batteries then no other part of the conversation will make any difference.

A new person many times doesn't even know what style of vaping they prefer yet. Giving them very targeted battery recommendations probably won't hurt anything, but until they know whether they're going to prefer 1 ohm coils at 15 watts or .15 coils at 90 watts, I usually try to point them to something in the "best all round" category. That gives them some room to play with while they're learning.

Speaking of learning Most people are not tech people my friend That doesn't make them stupid, it just makes them not tech people. They don't care about 95% of the stuff that us eggheads care about. They just want this thing to work right They quickly become overwhelmed with all the tech stuff and maybe start reading something else. I know this from vast experience in dealing with non tech people from a tech perspective.

If they actually are tech people then they still just need to be told how to vape reliably for now and they'll pick up the tech stuff as they go. I had no idea there was all this fascinating tech stuff to tinker with when I bought my first kit. I just tried my niece's vape and liked it.

If they're asking technical questions then that might be a different story. They're the ones who wind up a year later with 20 mods, 30 atomizers and tools wire and trinkets all over the place.

What am I trying to say? Your information is always good buddy, but it's lost on mostly non tech people who just want to know how to enjoy their vape safely If they stick around there will be plenty of time to talk shop with them.

As always, with respect and for what it's worth.

 

[LilBoSheep]

Lol. Glad I know my batteries so well. After ten minutes of reading moochs blog I find out imren is junk and I'm perfectly safe at 240 or less!

 

[Carambrda]

I don't pay attention to anybody's ratings except Mooch. The wrap or the vendor info. What matters is that they're gotten from a place that is reliably known to sell authentic batteries. Which Mooch also recommends a bunch of those as you know.

Allow me please to give a couple principals I follow when dealing with brand new people. These are gleaned from doing computer user support for a very long time.

The first priority it seems to me is making sure they get their hands on authentic batteries. If we don't know with a fair degree of certainty that we're dealing with authentic batteries then no other part of the conversation will make any difference.

A new person many times doesn't even know what style of vaping they prefer yet. Giving them very targeted battery recommendations probably won't hurt anything, but until they know whether they're going to prefer 1 ohm coils at 15 watts or .15 coils at 90 watts, I usually try to point them to something in the "best all round" category. That gives them some room to play with while they're learning.

Speaking of learning Most people are not tech people my friend That doesn't make them stupid, it just makes them not tech people. They don't care about 95% of the stuff that us eggheads care about. They just want this thing to work right They quickly become overwhelmed with all the tech stuff and maybe start reading something else. I know this from vast experience in dealing with non tech people from a tech perspective.

If they actually are tech people then they still just need to be told how to vape reliably for now and they'll pick up the tech stuff as they go. I had no idea there was all this fascinating tech stuff to tinker with when I bought my first kit. I just tried my niece's vape and liked it.

If they're asking technical questions then that might be a different story. They're the ones who wind up a year later with 20 mods, 30 atomizers and tools wire and trinkets all over the place.

What am I trying to say? Your information is always good buddy, but it's lost on mostly non tech people who just want to know how to enjoy their vape safely If they stick around there will be plenty of time to talk shop with them.

As always, with respect and for what it's worth.

I don't disagree with anything you said excepting only the part about "best all round", as you reallly can't talk about that part without putting the safety always first so the part about calculating the safety is always ALSO compulsory, but the part about getting batteries that aren't very likely to be fakes is among what you already had covered essentially. So, I saw no real reason for me to elaborate on that part because you already had that covered. In fact the thing that matters the most is not short circuiting the battery by 1/ ensuring that the battery wrap and the top insulator ring on the battery are kept in pristine condition, 2/ ensuring to not store any batteries in your pocket without putting them in a protective case, and 3/ not using any batteries that are dented or otherwise visibly damaged, or that have suffered internal damage─but we are assuming the person already knows these things because we tend to take them for granted. Which we probably shouldn't be doing. But still happens a lot.

I had decided to just explain the key basics of 1/ what's best for safety in addition to making reasonably sure they're genuine and not short circuiting them, of 2/ what's best for performance, and also put in a bit about accelerated aging and how it can be mitigated to touch on 3/ what's best for cost effectiveness in the long haul. Or, what might be the best tradeoff between 1/ having to buy new batteries more frequently as a result from extra wear and tear caused on the batteries and 2/ sacrificing some performance in exchange for slower aging. I.e., it all just depends on what are the priorities... aside from getting reasonable safety of course. I mean, it sucks to find out only afterwards that you could have been able to avoid unnecessary wear and tear by going for a different battery. That is, excepting to those who don't mind about that. It's just an option to consider, when we don't know who heavily chain vapes versus not, and we don't know who will want to base their buying decisions on heating the batteries up more versus heating up less.