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Buying a new mech tube. Advice me to choose one


Hi vapefam.

I'm trying to decide which mech tube to buy. And I'm seeking for some help from you guys to decide between some models.

Until now I have only owned an anarchist v3 mech tube (already sold), coil mage v2 (only used in stack mode, I don't like the button) and many mech squonks / regulated boxes.

So, this is what I can get and pay.

Kennedy 21700
Outlaw 20700
Descendant 18650
Dreamer
Purge The truck 20700
Comp Lyfe Mod Swiss 18650

From all those.
Which one has the shortest throw and which button has better "performance" (misfires and arc) ?.

Not dealing concern about to buy the "hardest hitter" just a good reliable meg tube with very short throw

Any help would highly appreciate. Vapeon!
 

r055co

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Kennedy Vindicator 21700 with the constant contact switch

Also I wouldn't get any 20700 tube for the Samsung 30T is the best battery for a Mech

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dhomes

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Kennedy 21700
Dreamer is great too

The hardest hitting i have right now is The Siege by armageddon manufacturing (also constant contact)






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Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
The length of the button throw is adjustable with the Kennedy Vindicator 21700. In the shortest mode the throw is only a few millimeters long. The spring is heavy enough that the throw feels solid, but not so heavy that it starts to feel a bit uncomfortable. On my cerakoted black (copper) Vindicator 21700 the button has a tendency to snag onto the interior of the button housing from time to time, causing the button press to feel a wee bit jerky. Luckily however, this only occurs for me if using an 18650 battery (using the adapter piece). With the Samsung 30T it feels entirely smooth so I don't see this as a real problem because the performance difference between the 30T and any 18650 battery makes up for it, as the size and weight of the mod with the 30T inside it is surprisingly comfortable, and the tapering near the bottom of the mod is making it feel even more comfortable in addition to this. I also own both the standard switch and the constant contact switch for it. The constant contact version still gives arcing... just not on the battery. With 3M Scotch Brite Heavy Duty pads you can remove the arcing marks, and, arcing is pretty minimal with the standard switch on this mod.

Both the Purge Truck and the Comp Lyfe Swiss are in a different league altogether. For instance, both of these mods can be stacked by using an extension tube whereas the Vindicator still can't so it all basically depends on what exactly it is you are looking for... I currently own four different full setups by Comp Lyfe, all four of them are upgraded with both the solid silver spring and the solid silver firing pin, and three of them have the Low Ryder button housing... the button throw on these is better than the Kennedy (and that I have verified by trying two additional Vindicator 27100 mods from two different friends). I also own the knurled black Truck (upgraded with both the solid silver spring and the solid silver firing pin) and I still love it, especially now that the Samsung 2070C has become widely available. But they [Purge bottom firing switches] do have a longer throw so this might not be in line with your own personal preference, which is why you might be better off getting one of their side firing mods, like, for example, the Slam Piece or the Slim Piece. The button throw on these is as short as short can be. As for the arcing... with the solid silver firing cup installed in my Slam Piece Cobra or my Lady Justice this is a non-issue so essentially justice wins.
 
The length of the button throw is adjustable with the Kennedy Vindicator 21700. In the shortest mode the throw is only a few millimeters long. The spring is heavy enough that the throw feels solid, but not so heavy that it starts to feel a bit uncomfortable. On my cerakoted black (copper) Vindicator 21700 the button has a tendency to snag onto the interior of the button housing from time to time, causing the button press to feel a wee bit jerky. Luckily however, this only occurs for me if using an 18650 battery (using the adapter piece). With the Samsung 30T it feels entirely smooth so I don't see this as a real problem because the performance difference between the 30T and any 18650 battery makes up for it, as the size and weight of the mod with the 30T inside it is surprisingly comfortable, and the tapering near the bottom of the mod is making it feel even more comfortable in addition to this. I also own both the standard switch and the constant contact switch for it. The constant contact version still gives arcing... just not on the battery. With 3M Scotch Brite Heavy Duty pads you can remove the arcing marks, and, arcing is pretty minimal with the standard switch on this mod.

Both the Purge Truck and the Comp Lyfe Swiss are in a different league altogether. For instance, both of these mods can be stacked by using an extension tube whereas the Vindicator still can't so it all basically depends on what exactly it is you are looking for... I currently own four different full setups by Comp Lyfe, all four of them are upgraded with both the solid silver spring and the solid silver firing pin, and three of them have the Low Ryder button housing... the button throw on these is better than the Kennedy (and that I have verified by trying two additional Vindicator 27100 mods from two different friends). I also own the knurled black Truck (upgraded with both the solid silver spring and the solid silver firing pin) and I still love it, especially now that the Samsung 2070C has become widely available. But they [Purge bottom firing switches] do have a longer throw so this might not be in line with your own personal preference, which is why you might be better off getting one of their side firing mods, like, for example, the Slam Piece or the Slim Piece. The button throw on these is as short as short can be. As for the arcing... with the solid silver firing cup installed in my Slam Piece Cobra or my Lady Justice this is a non-issue so essentially justice wins.
Wooow thanks a lot for taking you time, it helps me a lot trying to devise which mech to get.

Your comment about the comp lyfe swiss with the short throw button got me more interested in that tube. Either brass or ss looks nice, and I'm not concerned about material conductivity also I can get the silver pin and spring from the same dealer.

Samsung 20s (vtc5a in some squonks), Samsung 30t and now sanyo 2070c, so I think I have a good selection of battery for any kind of tube.

I have the vapecell green (rewrap sanyo 2070c), using them in my purse squonk. Pretty impressed with the performance.

To be stackable that is a +, but not a deal breaker. Mostly the short throw of the button and overall quality of mech. I know looks are subjective, but not build quality ;).
 
The length of the button throw is adjustable with the Kennedy Vindicator 21700. In the shortest mode the throw is only a few millimeters long. The spring is heavy enough that the throw feels solid, but not so heavy that it starts to feel a bit uncomfortable. On my cerakoted black (copper) Vindicator 21700 the button has a tendency to snag onto the interior of the button housing from time to time, causing the button press to feel a wee bit jerky. Luckily however, this only occurs for me if using an 18650 battery (using the adapter piece). With the Samsung 30T it feels entirely smooth so I don't see this as a real problem because the performance difference between the 30T and any 18650 battery makes up for it, as the size and weight of the mod with the 30T inside it is surprisingly comfortable, and the tapering near the bottom of the mod is making it feel even more comfortable in addition to this. I also own both the standard switch and the constant contact switch for it. The constant contact version still gives arcing... just not on the battery. With 3M Scotch Brite Heavy Duty pads you can remove the arcing marks, and, arcing is pretty minimal with the standard switch on this mod.

Both the Purge Truck and the Comp Lyfe Swiss are in a different league altogether. For instance, both of these mods can be stacked by using an extension tube whereas the Vindicator still can't so it all basically depends on what exactly it is you are looking for... I currently own four different full setups by Comp Lyfe, all four of them are upgraded with both the solid silver spring and the solid silver firing pin, and three of them have the Low Ryder button housing... the button throw on these is better than the Kennedy (and that I have verified by trying two additional Vindicator 27100 mods from two different friends). I also own the knurled black Truck (upgraded with both the solid silver spring and the solid silver firing pin) and I still love it, especially now that the Samsung 2070C has become widely available. But they [Purge bottom firing switches] do have a longer throw so this might not be in line with your own personal preference, which is why you might be better off getting one of their side firing mods, like, for example, the Slam Piece or the Slim Piece. The button throw on these is as short as short can be. As for the arcing... with the solid silver firing cup installed in my Slam Piece Cobra or my Lady Justice this is a non-issue so essentially justice wins.

Also when you say " comp and purge are in another league"...

Do you mean better build quality (materials), design or just better hitters.
 
Comp lyfe Swiss for me. Although the Truck ain't too shabby either.
Any special reason? Seems that purge and comp lyfe are more "famous" or well people seems to put those brands in higher standards.

I'm not really familiarised with those brands, pretty new regarding mech tube community and brands so that means too that I don't have any special preference for any brand.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Also when you say " comp and purge are in another league"...

Do you mean better build quality (materials), design or just better hitters.
Just better hitters and that I am able to feel after I move my RDA from my Vindicator 21700 copper cerakoted black with a Samsung 30T onto my Slim Piece copper cerakoted blood splatter with a Samsung 20S. You'd think the Vindicator 21700 would win due to it using the 30T instead of using the 20S, but you'd think wrong... same deal with my copper R6two SBTR "Project Neptune Spear"... it's only an 18650 mod, but it's another clear example of why you shouldn't let that fool ya.

SBTR.jpg
 
Just better hitters and that I am able to feel after I move my RDA from my Vindicator 21700 copper cerakoted black with a Samsung 30T onto my Slim Piece copper cerakoted blood splatter with a Samsung 20S. You'd think the Vindicator 21700 would win due to it using the 30T instead of using the 20S, but you'd think wrong... same deal with my copper R6two SBTR "Project Neptune Spear"... it's only an 18650 mod, but it's another clear example of why you shouldn't let that fool ya.

View attachment 139201
Yeah, i have noticed that too with a SS TVL colt .45, comp copper button, silver spring using Samung 20s, hit harder than a Bonza Cooper tube with samsung 30T. Big $$$ differences, but that tvl convinced me that a good 18650 mech, even SS, can hit harder than an average 21700 tube.

Do you think the difference is noticeable between SS and brass with Comp lyfe?, it seems that the SS of the Swiss comes with a copper button (not that i really care, really digging the low profile button). Sadly i can't stand the smell of copper in my hands :c, so it is going to be either brass or SS and i tend to go more to SS because to me it can be matched with lots of colors and be more "customizable", but that is totally subjective haha.

Basically, I have narrowed my list to the Comp Lyfe swiss (going to get the low set button) and the Truck but only if i can try one before and see/feel the throw.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Yeah, i have noticed that too with a SS TVL colt .45, comp copper button, silver spring using Samung 20s, hit harder than a Bonza Cooper tube with samsung 30T. Big $$$ differences, but that tvl convinced me that a good 18650 mech, even SS, can hit harder than an average 21700 tube.

Do you think the difference is noticeable between SS and brass with Comp lyfe?, it seems that the SS of the Swiss comes with a copper button (not that i really care, really digging the low profile button). Sadly i can't stand the smell of copper in my hands :c, so it is going to be either brass or SS and i tend to go more to SS because to me it can be matched with lots of colors and be more "customizable", but that is totally subjective haha.

Basically, I have narrowed my list to the Comp Lyfe swiss (going to get the low set button) and the Truck but only if i can try one before and see/feel the throw.
The difference between different metal types as for the total electric resistance that determines the voltage drop of the mod in question is actually pretty minimal with these top of the shelf mods because the superior design in cohort with the quality of the machining of the screw threads and of the contacts are responsible for that. But some people put on the type of contact cleaner that contains an electrically conductive, so-called "protective" lube that's supposed to help to improve the conductivity in those areas... the end result is that, after the lube breaks down as a result from micro-arcing (not to be confused with arcing) that occurs in the microscopically narrow gaps between the screw threads, it speeds up corrosion, which means in fact it is detrimental to the quality of the screw threads so then they [these people] jump to all sorts of riduculous conclusions about different metal types, touting that pure silver tubes are better than copper or brass tubes, entertaining me by going full apeshit on me instructing minions to jump to their defense in multiple different discussion threads when the reality is that they [these people] don't even know that using that kind of lube can easily turn the hardest hitting tube on the planet into a not much better than average performer. Titanium conducts current even much worse than SS does, and the same applies to rhodium. Again, don't let that fool ya.

anodized titanium houston.jpg white rhodium houston.jpg
 

marter

VU Donator
Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
How much difference are we really talking about here? Take my Kennedy Vindicator with a 30T..are we talking 10% here? I doubt it. 5%? 2% maybe? After the initial voltage drop, doesn't that diminish further? Not being argumentative, I'm seriously interested if there's any way to quantify this.

marter
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
How much difference are we really talking about here? Take my Kennedy Vindicator with a 30T..are we talking 10% here? I doubt it. 5%? 2% maybe? After the initial voltage drop, doesn't that diminish further? Not being argumentative, I'm seriously interested if there's any way to quantify this.

marter
There's no such thing as the "initial" voltage drop, as the voltage drop is due entirely to the total resistance of the mod itself so it is separate from the battery, as voltage sag is referring to the battery sag (which also is separate from the fact the voltage goes down further as the battery gets discharged a little bit with every pull).

As for the differences in the voltage drop, I haven't measured them so I can't answer, but Mooch's test results revealed that the voltage drop, when he measured it at 30 amps, was 8 milli-volts for the brass Admiral versus 7 milli-volts for the copper Admiral so, because 30 amps translates to about 110 watts, the power loss translates to about 0.24 watts for the brass Admiral versus 0.21 watts for the copper Admiral, i.e., the difference is like 110 watts of power output for brass versus 110.03 watts power output for copper. So when talking about the real difference based on real evidence from a guy (Mooch) who does this stuff for a living, in this particular example the difference between 110 and 110.03 is like only 0.027%. So, because the difference in electric conductivity between copper and pure silver is even smaller than that between brass and copper, in a well engineered (that is, in pure terms of which is harder hitting) tube mech with undamaged clean screw threads and contacts the metal type that the tube itself is made of matters not in any way that can be felt by vaping. But the Admiral can't use a 30T, whereas the Vindicator 21700 still can. BUT... both Purge Mods and Comp Lyfe have mods that can use the 30T. So, by comparing the Vindicator 21700 to the Truck and the Swiss, well... you've got apples... just like you've got oranges, and, I'm certain those who still insist they can feel the difference by vaping on a solid silver tube have also got bananas. :)
 
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marter

VU Donator
Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
There's no such thing as the "initial" voltage drop, as the voltage drop is due entirely to the total resistance of the mod itself so it is separate from the battery, as voltage sag is referring to the battery sag (which also is separate from the fact the voltage goes down further as the battery gets discharged a little bit with every pull).

As for the differences in the voltage drop, I haven't measured them so I can't answer, but Mooch's test results revealed that the voltage drop, when he measured it at 30 amps, was 8 milli-volts for the brass Admiral versus 7 milli-volts for the copper Admiral so, because 30 amps translates to about 110 watts, the power loss translates to about 0.24 watts for the brass Admiral versus 0.21 watts for the copper Admiral, i.e., the difference is like 110 watts of power output for brass versus 110.03 watts power output for copper. So when talking about the real difference based on real evidence from a guy (Mooch) who does this stuff for a living, in this particular example the difference between 110 and 110.03 is like only 0.027%. So, because the difference in electric conductivity between copper and pure silver is even smaller than that between brass and copper, in a well engineered (that is, in pure terms of which is harder hitting) tube mech with undamaged clean screw threads and contacts the metal type that the tube itself is made of matters not in any way that can be felt by vaping. But the Admiral can't use a 30T, whereas the Vindicator 21700 still can. BUT... both Purge Mods and Comp Lyfe have mods that can use the 30T. So, by comparing the Vindicator 21700 to the Truck and the Swiss, well... you've got apples... just like you've got oranges, and, I'm certain those who still insist they can feel the difference by vaping on a solid silver tube have also got bananas. :)
Thanks for correcting me. I can't believe I would use words like "initial" and "voltage drop" when it's called "sag" and it's separate from voltage going down each puff (drop?)....but you knew what I meant.

And thanks for quoting Mooch, which confirmed what I suspected. Setting all fruit comparisons aside, we're talking about differences in the hundredths of percentage points. I'm not sophisticated or experienced enough to notice those differences. Maybe some day I will.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Thanks for correcting me. I can't believe I would use words like "initial" and "voltage drop" when it's called "sag" and it's separate from voltage going down each puff (drop?)....but you knew what I meant.
Well actually Mooch has explained it a lot better than me.
And thanks for quoting Mooch, which confirmed what I suspected. Setting all fruit comparisons aside, we're talking about differences in the hundredths of percentage points. I'm not sophisticated or experienced enough to notice those differences. Maybe some day I will.
Nobody can feel that on the vape if it's THAT small of a difference of course, but... once the design and the machining (and cleanliness) are also factored in, that's when the story might change. Personally, I, don't obsess over differences small enough that I might not even notice or barely am able to notice, but I do like a mech to be a hard hitting one especially if the idea is for me to spend a whole lot of my time vaping on it, and, I can't fault the Vindicator 21700 in this regard, as I do use mine all the time despite it isn't the hardest hitting mech I own and am able to notice that fact by vaping. So I'll be the first to admit the "in a different league altogether" description has got a lot to do with what exactly your expectations are. That said, I still think the side firing mods from Purge are worth checking out because believe me when I say their button throw is shorter than short. Like, only about a single millimeter kind of short... which I think is pretty short. But anyway. lol
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'd recommend a God mod Overlord. Not in your list but a superb build quality. I don't have as much experience as the other mechies (sorry that literally just popped in my head, and I won't say it again.) But it's a great one. I've only had one purge and I just didn't like it. Was an older model though. Had a Kennedy and I'd definitely recommend those as already stated.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
I've only had one purge and I just didn't like it. Was an older model though.
Currentlly I have 30 of them. Their design, build quality and machining are solid. Not everyone likes the fact they're big and heavy, and that their screw threads are long, but I do. They can tend to partially misfire if using the three magnets instead of using the solid silver spring upgrade, albeit with the magnets it typically just depends on where you put your finger as you press the button. But the solid silver spring upgrade completely fixes that problem, and it makes the button throw feel nice and smooth so I can't complain. But the lenght of their button throw is not the shortest excepting if you go for one of their side firing models like I said earlier. By comparison, the lenght of the button throw on the Vindicator 21700 is somewhere halfway in between that of a bottom firing Purge and a side firing Purge. As for the size and weight of the mod, the Slim Piece weighs a lot less heavy than the other ones... it's only about the same weight as my heat treated anodized titanium Houston with the Low Ryder button, but the latter is almost half an inch taller in spite of it having the Low Ryder button. The copper cerakoted blood splatter version of the Slim Piece also comes with the Carnage RDA in black ultem already included in the price, and, both the button plate and the bottom of the mod are black ultem also. It's a very awesome mod. (Actually so is the Slim Piece Pharaoh now that I just gave it another close look, but... that one doesn't come with an RDA included in the price.... lol)

slim pieces.jpg
 
So I'll be the first to admit the "in a different league altogether" description has got a lot to do with what exactly your expectations are.
Coming from the squonk mech scene, I don´t really care about all the "conductivity " debate. Even my now sold Anarchist v3 comp tube hit harder than any of my squonks, even my Purge ultem 20700 didn't hit so hard.

1 Build quality
2 Button throw
3 Looks
And for me, SS tubes looks friggin awesome with brass or black buttons #matchymatchy hahaha.


Currentlly I have 30 of them. Their design, build quality and machining are solid. Not everyone likes the fact they're big and heavy, and that their screw threads are long, but I do. They can tend to partially misfire if using the three magnets instead of using the solid silver spring upgrade, albeit with the magnets it typically just depends on where you put your finger as you press the button. But the solid silver spring upgrade completely fixes that problem, and it makes the button throw feel nice and smooth so I can't complain. But the lenght of their button throw is not the shortest excepting if you go for one of their side firing models like I said earlier. By comparison, the lenght of the button throw on the Vindicator 21700 is somewhere halfway in between that of a bottom firing Purge and a side firing Purge. As for the size and weight of the mod, the Slim Piece weighs a lot less heavy than the other ones... it's only about the same weight as my heat treated anodized titanium Houston with the Low Ryder button, but the latter is almost half an inch taller in spite of it having the Low Ryder button. The copper cerakoted blood splatter version of the Slim Piece also comes with the Carnage RDA in black ultem already included in the price, and, both the button plate and the bottom of the mod are black ultem also. It's a very awesome mod. (Actually so is the Slim Piece Pharaoh now that I just gave it another close look, but... that one doesn't come with an RDA included in the price.... lol)

View attachment 139539
And i have to say that you are totally right. The side fire slim piece screams quality, and the button throw ...wooow. Yestarday in a vape meet in my town i meet someone that have a brass slim piece, really digging side fire, sadly i can't find one in my $$$ range hehe (it could be a nice Christmas gift hahaha), also tried a b2b v3, v4 , viper and truck... didn't like the length of the throw :s

Do comp lyfe with the magnets have missfire you like the purge ones?

I can get the comp lyfe swiss tube at $150 usd (brass or ss), the vindicator around $90, the rig descendant (ss tube, brass button) $116 with the m41 rda. I have almost made my mind with the swiss, but i would like to hear opinions on the descendant tube before i made my decision.
 
I'd recommend a God mod Overlord. Not in your list but a superb build quality. I don't have as much experience as the other mechies (sorry that literally just popped in my head, and I won't say it again.) But it's a great one. I've only had one purge and I just didn't like it. Was an older model though. Had a Kennedy and I'd definitely recommend those as already stated.

Oh the overlord, yeah, lots of people have recommended me that tube, but, sadly i can't get one in Mexico (we can't get any vape stuff shipped to us through any mail service, and almost any shop don't ship to mexico), so i need to "work" with the stuff that i can get locally .
 

marter

VU Donator
Silver Contributor
Member For 1 Year
Coming from the squonk mech scene, I don´t really care about all the "conductivity " debate. Even my now sold Anarchist v3 comp tube hit harder than any of my squonks, even my Purge ultem 20700 didn't hit so hard.

1 Build quality
2 Button throw
3 Looks
And for me, SS tubes looks friggin awesome with brass or black buttons #matchymatchy hahaha.
Vindicator 21700 and Goon 25mm. Ticks all the boxes (I have a black cerakoted switch on my other Vindicator but I like the copper on this one).HC4.jpg
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
Coming from the squonk mech scene, I don´t really care about all the "conductivity " debate. Even my now sold Anarchist v3 comp tube hit harder than any of my squonks, even my Purge ultem 20700 didn't hit so hard.

1 Build quality
2 Button throw
3 Looks
And for me, SS tubes looks friggin awesome with brass or black buttons #matchymatchy hahaha.




And i have to say that you are totally right. The side fire slim piece screams quality, and the button throw ...wooow. Yestarday in a vape meet in my town i meet someone that have a brass slim piece, really digging side fire, sadly i can't find one in my $$$ range hehe (it could be a nice Christmas gift hahaha), also tried a b2b v3, v4 , viper and truck... didn't like the length of the throw :s

Do comp lyfe with the magnets have missfire you like the purge ones?

I can get the comp lyfe swiss tube at $150 usd (brass or ss), the vindicator around $90, the rig descendant (ss tube, brass button) $116 with the m41 rda. I have almost made my mind with the swiss, but i would like to hear opinions on the descendant tube before i made my decision.
I didn't say the Purge ones have actual misfires. They can, to some certain extent that seems to vary quite a bit, have a tendency to give partial misfires (and/or some amount of jerkiness and/or scratchiness in the feel of the button throw) that is heavily dependent of where you place your finger on the disc before you press on it... a partial misfire is when it still fires, but it doesn't hit as hard as it normally does (or should), and also this seems to tend to occur in a semi-random kind of way so the severity also varies. With a Comp Lyfe the behavior is pretty similar, but different, and, going for the solid silver spring upgrade is the one solution that perfectly works as it completely fixes that problem, same as with a Purge. But all four of my tube mechs by Ronin Competition Mods are immune to it. But I also got all the silverwear for these ones still nevertheless. Simply because they're badass too.
 

PaulS

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have owned Purges, Complyfe, Seige, Grip, Bestia, Kennedy et all. We each have our favorites. I think MRN mods and Pilaks the best - for me. Followed by Complyfe and the sidefire Armeggedons. I got hot buttons on sidefire Purges and the Bestia. Not on my other sidefire. Yhis only my personal experiences and I'm not going to debate the merits odf an all silver mod (Pilak) vs a Purge. No doubt the machining coems into play as well. The Overlord has tetsed with one of the lowest voltage drops. I have to say my stacked Overlord hit a ton but so did my MRN and I prefered the machining on the MRN.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
I have owned Purges, Complyfe, Seige, Grip, Bestia, Kennedy et all. We each have our favorites. I think MRN mods and Pilaks the best - for me. Followed by Complyfe and the sidefire Armeggedons. I got hot buttons on sidefire Purges and the Bestia. Not on my other sidefire. Yhis only my personal experiences and I'm not going to debate the merits odf an all silver mod (Pilak) vs a Purge. No doubt the machining coems into play as well. The Overlord has tetsed with one of the lowest voltage drops. I have to say my stacked Overlord hit a ton but so did my MRN and I prefered the machining on the MRN.
With the sidefiring mods from Purge, all you need to do to avoid the hot button issue is not overtighten the cap that holds the firing cup in place, and maybe sand down the sharp edge on the other contact that's on the inside of the mod and that presses against the firing cup when firing. This is only my personal experience with their side firing mods (that I own 6) and I'm not going to debate the merits of purely common sense vs the obvious lack thereof.
 

PaulS

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'll try that trick. I never overtighten so maybe I'll sand down bit. Overall Purges are well made mods but I'm not a huge fan of the throw and I have silver in all mine. Never really noticed the difference adding silver, TBH. I love the Pilak throw and the MRNs are not too shabby either. Complyfe has nice button too.
The hardest hitting mod I owned was my old Dominus with a direct contact atty. No hot button issue there. But did not like the look of it that much and the feel was just somehow wrong for me. LOL. I should be honest and state that I rarely use my big mechs anymore. I switched to MTL vapes primarily. I do have a number of 18350 mechs in my rotation though like the Unicorn, an Ennequardo, a Complyfe, an Aldin and others - no substantial differences other than size and looks with these. I actuallu use my biggest a lot - a Lab 35 from Atmizoo.
 

Carambrda

Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
ECF Refugee
I'll try that trick. I never overtighten so maybe I'll sand down bit. Overall Purges are well made mods but I'm not a huge fan of the throw and I have silver in all mine.
With all three magnets in them, the classic buttons have a button throw that some might find too uncomfortably heavy (people with arthritis and/or weak wimpy hands/fingers and all that... it's a "No Country For Old Men" kind of affair, yes I get that), whereas removing one magnet they might find it too soft, and also the button throw has a tendency to be a little bit scratchy especially if using all three magnets and depending how you press the button─the location of your finger on the disc matters typically, albeit you can apply a tiny little bit of grease along the side of the firing pin to make the button throw buttery smooth still nevertheless so, I don't fret over it... if it bothers you too much just grab a TVL Viking and call it a day. (That is, if you can still find a Viking... 🤣🤣🤣) The solid silver spring (Heavy version) upgrade fixes this specific "problem" of the firmness being either too hard or too soft. But if you plan to use the more affordable, non authentic springs that are hand wrapped by Eric Simpson in Texas, then you also need to keep in mind that their firmness will NOT be the same, and, for reasons that should be completely obvious, this can NOT be blamed on the maker of the mod in question........ Capisce?
Never really noticed the difference adding silver, TBH.
And now you know the reason why. It's okay, it happens to every noob I guess... 🤭
I love the Pilak throw and the MRNs are not too shabby either. Complyfe has nice button too.
The hardest hitting mod I owned was my old Dominus with a direct contact atty. No hot button issue there. But did not like the look of it that much and the feel was just somehow wrong for me. LOL. I should be honest and state that I rarely use my big mechs anymore. I switched to MTL vapes primarily. I do have a number of 18350 mechs in my rotation though like the Unicorn, an Ennequardo, a Complyfe, an Aldin and others - no substantial differences other than size and looks with these. I actuallu use my biggest a lot - a Lab 35 from Atmizoo.
I lost count of how many mechs I own. I think I've spent about $50,000 on my collection by now (probably more). Not even a single one of them has a hot button so I must be doing something right.

As for MTL, it is the single most surefire way to get rid of flavorfulness, and, there is no 'oomph' (none whatsoever) for me to be found in vaping on anything that is too far below the 90 watts mark, like. Anemia, flagrantly...
 

PaulS

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
As for MTL, it is the single most surefire way to get rid of flavorfulness, and, there is no 'oomph' (none whatsoever) for me to be found in vaping on anything that is too far below the 90 watts mark, like. Anemia, flagrantly...
You are wrong here. I've been vaping since 2013. I can get a intense flavour from MTL when the build and the atty are correct. Hence the extreme differences in price between atomizers. I've vaped at all watts. But again a discussion that can be become futile quickly.
And now you know the reason why. It's okay, it happens to every noob I guess...
I always knew why, lol. Well maybe not four years ago but for quite awhile. I am old - 69 - so a bit intolerant when a mod does not perform the way I like them to. I cannot help it. And fiddly fixes are difficult for me now. Bad hands and bad eyes. Don't make my own coils anymore - buy coils made by others.
 
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