Coils burn out quick on Fuhattan Mechanical Mod using Arctic Dual Coil Tank

[anubis2k3]

I have not been able to find anything in regards to the issues I am having with my new set up. I just go this Fuhattan Mod and picked up an Horizon Tech Arctic tank with Dual Coil atty's. I'm still really new to vaping, but the guys at the vape shop I got this setup from said that it should work fine. However, I have already had both coils that the the tank came with burn out on me and each time it wasn't when I was even taking a hit off the darn thing. I'm so confused as to what is going on and am wondering if I am doing anything wrong. Anyone here have the slightest clue as to why this is happening to me?

Here's My Set-up:

Mod: FU - Fuhattan 18650 Mechanical Mod (Got it used without the extra pins it apparently comes with NEW)
Battery: Samsung INR18650-25R 250mAh
Tank: Horizon Tech - Arctic Sub Ohm Subtank

Thanks in advance to anyone who is able to post any advice.

 

[OBDave]

Moving this over to Clearomizers where hopefully you'll get some more activity.

What resistance coils are you using - the 0.2 or 0.5 ohm?

More importantly, what do you mean the coils are burning when you're not using the mod? Is it auto-firing? What are these "extra pins" that are missing? This could be very bad news on a mech mod that sits on its button and has no locking mechanism...can you post some pics?

Edited to add that I'd be wary of anything coming out of the mouth of someone who sets a new user up with a mechanical mod and sub-ohm tank and says "you'll be fine."

 

[cascadian]

However, I have already had both coils that the the tank came with burn out on me and each time it wasn't when I was even taking a hit off the darn thing.

Define burn out. Typically a sub ohm coil doesn't just stop working it starts tasting poorly, wicking poorly or both. One of the most common complaints with the Arctic tank is that when opening to fill the tank, the chimney seal at the top of the coil actually un-threads the coil resulting in an open circuit. Meaning the coil is still working but no longer makes an electrical connection with the base.

 

[anubis2k3]

Sorry, they are 0.5 ohm that came in the box.

Yes it is like it is auto firing even though I'm not pushing the button. The coils just fried up. When i took them out of casing the coils were black near the bottom of negative leads that bend from the top and go down. It was as if they received a surge and popped.
Pins for the mod are in place and I've inspected it for any loose ones, after the fact. The pins that are "missing" was in a review of the mood I saw on YouTube while doing research on my issue. Thinking back on it now they could have been the pins to put it together? But it may be extra pins for different size batteries? I don't really know.



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[Zamazam]

You have a serious issue with your mod you need to get fixed first before thinking about the coils. If it is autofiring without pressing the switch, there is something funky or bad with the switch. If just the weight of the mod fires the tank, your switch needs stronger magnets.

 

[Breazy_Com]

Yep better let the guy ho sold it to you check it out !

 

[iLiptiKal]

I can say I've never had this issue with my FUhattan. The pins are for atty's or tanks that have different length 510 connections, and have markings to dictate which ones they are in terms of length. I can take a photo if you'd like.
While I don't have a tank to test the weight I can say that none of my rda's cause the mod to auto-fire. That's in my pocket or on a flat surface, as the magnets are quite strong.

My suspicion is that the pin you have is making contact with the top of the battery when the switch isn't pressed and because of the design of the button there really isn't an insulator to block the negative connection from happening. Hence the auto-fire.
What should happen is by pressing the switch, it pushes the battery up inside the tube a bit to the positive pin to make the connection.

Hope this helps.


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[OBDave]

I'd take the mod back to whoever sold it to you and demand he take it back. Then I'd go shopping for a good regulated device in the 80-100 watt range.

 

[anubis2k3]

Thank you all for all your replies.

I think it was the pin that was installed. I've fiddled around with the placement of the pin and noticed it wasn't installed tightly enough to make constant contact with my tank. It appears that it was loose and I could turn it with my fingers and tighten it a bit more with the tank installed. So I loosened the tank a bit and screwed it in a bit more, so that when I put the tank on it, there was a nice resistance and tightened nicely.

Bought a multimeter and recharged my battery tell my meter said it was at 3.7v. Haven't had any problems yet, so I'm hoping this has fixed the issue. Will post back in the next 24 hours to let you know of results.


ILiptiKal:

The button doesn't seem to be the culprit and it holds its own weight with the tank installed, without misfiring. However, is my button supposed to be totally flush with the bottom of my mod or should it be sticking out a lil bit when pushing it in?

Thanks again everyone for all of your replies and confirming some of my suspicions. It is greatly appreciated.

BTW, for my battery, is it safe to keep it at 3.7v or can it go higher?

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[iLiptiKal]

Thank you all for all your replies.

...

The button doesn't seem to be the culprit and it holds its own weight with the tank installed, without misfiring. However, is my button supposed to be totally flush with the bottom of my mod or should it be sticking out a lil bit when pushing it in?

Thanks again everyone for all of your replies and confirming some of my suspicions. It is greatly appreciated.

BTW, for my battery, is it safe to keep it at 3.7v or can it go higher?

Your button won't go all the way in when pressing, it will stick out a couple mm still. One thing to look out for though is the firing pin in the switch can come loose from using it, so check it periodically to make sure it's tight.

On an 18650 battery at full charge it will output 4.2V and then drop down to 3.7 fairly quickly from use, and then drop again once it starts to die.


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[tankdeluxe38]

I was going to agree with you on burning coils. I have found that even after I presoak the coils and saturate it that sometimes I get a burnt taste. Witch I assume comes from the lower coil. No worries easy fix . Just close all air vents and blow air into drip tip and the air bubbles will wet the lower coil with juice. Open air vents and take a puff of burnt free vapor

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[OBDave]

Thank you all for all your replies.

I think it was the pin that was installed. I've fiddled around with the placement of the pin and noticed it wasn't installed tightly enough to make constant contact with my tank. It appears that it was loose and I could turn it with my fingers and tighten it a bit more with the tank installed. So I loosened the tank a bit and screwed it in a bit more, so that when I put the tank on it, there was a nice resistance and tightened nicely.

Bought a multimeter and recharged my battery tell my meter said it was at 3.7v. Haven't had any problems yet, so I'm hoping this has fixed the issue. Will post back in the next 24 hours to let you know of results.


ILiptiKal:

The button doesn't seem to be the culprit and it holds its own weight with the tank installed, without misfiring. However, is my button supposed to be totally flush with the bottom of my mod or should it be sticking out a lil bit when pushing it in?

Thanks again everyone for all of your replies and confirming some of my suspicions. It is greatly appreciated.

BTW, for my battery, is it safe to keep it at 3.7v or can it go higher?

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Your battery should charge to 4.2v when it's fresh - by the time it dips to 3.6 or 3.7 it's time to replace it...

 

[anubis2k3]

Your battery should charge to 4.2v when it's fresh - by the time it dips to 3.6 or 3.7 it's time to replace it...

You mean that once it stops charging to 4.2v and will only charge up to 3.7v?

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[OBDave]

You mean that once it stops charging to 4.2v and will only charge up to 3.7v?

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A good charger will charge a battery to 4.2v and hold it there. You take it off the charger, let it rest for an hour or so, and put it in your mod. Using the battery drains the power out of it. When the power is drained to below 3.7v, you take the battery out and charge it back up to 4.2v. Make sense?

 

[Rhyno636]

A good charger will charge a battery to 4.2v and hold it there. You take it off the charger, let it rest for an hour or so, and put it in your mod. Using the battery drains the power out of it. When the power is drained to below 3.7v, you take the battery out and charge it back up to 4.2v. Make sense?

Let it rest for an hour or so? I've never heard that one.

Anubis, you need to buy a regulated mod. You need some more experience before relying on a mechanical all day, everyday.

 

[BigNasty]

Your mech and set up is about to go down the rabbit hole of pain and misery.

 

[Rhyno636]

A good charger will charge a battery to 4.2v and hold it there. You take it off the charger, let it rest for an hour or so, and put it in your mod. Using the battery drains the power out of it. When the power is drained to below 3.7v, you take the battery out and charge it back up to 4.2v. Make sense?

OB Dave, you're a staff member and a moderator? Where do you get the ludicrous information you're sharing about letting a battery rest for an hour or so after charging? I expect far more credible information from somebody in your position. I'm actually disturbed.

 

[anubis2k3]

No worries, it's been working so far without issue. I may not be an advanced vapor, but I'm certainly a quick learner, and an advent tinkerer .

I thought about getting a regulated mod, but the guy gave me such a sweet deal I decided to take it and risk the learning curve.

Thank you all for your most informative post. I knew when I found this forum it would be full of people who know what the deal is and I could find a lot of information here, and I am very satisfied with this community.

Thanks again everyone.

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