Connection problem with Smok TF-RTA G2

[msakyuz]

Hi all,
I have been using smok tf-rta g2 fit for two months already and I am really enjoying it but I have a problem.
About a month ago my mod slipped from my hand and dropped. When I pick it up, it was reading 0 ohms. I disassembled rta and put it back but it was still 0. I could read my other rdas and tanks but smok tf-rta was giving short but I can read its resistance with ohmmeter. Then while twisting here and there on rts, it suddenly became alive again
After some time I wanted to wash it and disassembled it. Again same problem and same solution. I want to wash it today but I really don't want to mess it up or work on it for one hour.
Any suggestions?
My setup is joyetech cuboid and generally dual Clapton coils having about 0.26 ohms.

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[saytar]

Hi all,
I have been using smok tf-rta g2 fit for two months already and I am really enjoying it but I have a problem.
About a month ago my mod slipped from my hand and dropped. When I pick it up, it was reading 0 ohms. I disassembled rta and put it back but it was still 0. I could read my other rdas and tanks but smok tf-rta was giving short but I can read its resistance with ohmmeter. Then while twisting here and there on rts, it suddenly became alive again
After some time I wanted to wash it and disassembled it. Again same problem and same solution. I want to wash it today but I really don't want to mess it up or work on it for one hour.
Any suggestions?
My setup is joyetech cuboid and generally dual Clapton coils having about 0.26 ohms.

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Need to check the 510 connector for any opens or shorts ....the bottom section. Also since this has a removeable deck if the bottom is bent in some manner the connection between the bottom pin and the pin on the bottom of the deck is critical. As to the deck check around the positive post insulator and ohm it to check conitinuity. If it is all screwing together fine my suspect is that there is small gap of some kind between the screw deck and the bottom pin............
Remove the deck from the bottom and turn it up .....make sure the silver pin is pushed as far into the bottom as possible, then make sure your pin on the bottom deck is not bent and carefully screw it back in and CAREFULLY make sure it is threading ALL the way in and is snug.....

This point is the Weak link in this RTA....problems here will also cause ohm changes, kick a lot of mods out of TC mode......all without any indication of anything wrong....hope this helps.
Mine was fluctuating on the ohms and kept kicking my mod out of TC constantly....also make sure this connection point is clean and dry when you reassemble it........its a decent tank, but it has this issue.....

 

[msakyuz]

I removed bottom deck and put it on the mod. When I checked positive post, I can read voltage and resistance with a multimeter ( yes I am an engineer).
I certainly think that problem is with the long positive post.
Yes 510 connector on the bottom deck is movable up and down and I think positive post can't touch and push it back.
Similar things I saw, ohm fluctuations, kicking out of tc mode etc.
Should I fix any bends on positive post? Or this one guess to trash?



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[saytar]

LOL............I'd probably do both. Buy and extra one and try to fix the old one.......(old electronic tech here).
One thing though on this RTA....if you check the LENGTH of the over all 510 connector is is waaayyy longer than most tanks (Boreas, SMOK RDTA and others) this results in the tank being having to screw in further and push the pin on the mod deeper...which has caused issue's with this pin sticking and not floating back up which over time may ruin the 510 base on the mod......I purchased a few Kepler heat sinks (with adjustable pins) and these screw into the Cuboid and Wismec's real nice, they seat firmly with only 1-2 turns and don't depress the Cuboid center pin as far and so far make little difference in my resistance readings. By screwing my tanks into these I am also saving a lot of wear on my Mods connector.....If your tanks set too high and you can't live with it then some adjustment or careful shaving of the heat sink center pin can be made......especially if you would rather put a head sink on each tank and not remove it.........I prefer to leave them alone and use them to save my Mod connector............i'm more about functionality & reliability than esthetics...mostly that is.

That said, I intend to probably buy one or two more (and only run them on my heat sinks) as you can pick them up for around $20 now on sale from most places....they are a good tank for reasonable flavor and easy to use (when you know there quirks) and I like using them when out and around and might possibly ruin a tank....$20 bucks is cheaper than most GOOD tanks are......I keep those around the house to baby them.....

If bottom screws on OK and center post is coming up short and not quite pushing back on 510 center pin you might get piece of small pipe or thick stiff tubing with a diameter slight larger than the 510 pin ( not much larger) and I'd put the bottom on a solid hard flat surface and place the pipe or whatever as centered on the 510 and lightly, very gently and lightly tap, tap tap on it, try not to bugger the threads,,,,,be sure to check every few light taps (screw deck in firmly and read with ohmmeter) as to fit and connectivity....also make sure the insulator around the moveable center pin is not sticking out past the threads, it need to rest just short of being flush with the outer 510 thread shell.

As to any bend in the center pin....yep that would alter the tolerances alright...not sure how you'd straighten that much (without ruining it)..my deal below MIGHT re-alter the spacing and allow it to work. If the "bend" is only a slight distortion and not a major bend.

Just don't tap hard...multiple baby taps should be all that is necessary to slightly bow the center of the screw on base up.....you don't want to totally deform the bottom as the deck might not go back in....OH and don't do this with the deck installed obviously.....

Pretty sure your problem is there.........when you dropped it you knocked the extremely tight tolerance between the deck and center pin from working and out of wack. The RTA is a good one I enjoy mine in rotation and use it as my "out and around knock about tank". But that center pin setup is a weak link.

Hopefully the center conductor rod in deck didn't get broken...not sure how it would without trashing the entire assembly.....its pretty solid metal, but slender. Other than these items I don't have any further clues...

Oh and my mods are the Cuboid and Wismec RX200S.......BOTH use the Joyetech chip and that chip sense's almost imperceptible changes in resistance (as it should for TC) and they are very touchy and sensitive to poor or degraded connections.....but then ANY TC mod worth anything should also sense these same small issues as in TC your dealing with very small to med changes in resistance.....TCR ..Temperature Coefficient of Resistance...........

Everything screwed into the mod that these chips monitor should be solid unchanging resistance (other than the actual wire TCR when heated)........you'll notice as your coils get older and covered with residue and cotton gets less wicking that your mod displayed temperature will show higher temps over time and start bumping the Temp Control cutoff.
I delay rewicking or recoiling by adjusting the TCR up to 130-150 to compensate until I get around to re working the tank. This just keeps it from cutting off power to the coils, just be careful.....let it go to high too long and its possible the cotton will burn......................and that's a nasty, nasty taste and won't go away without cleaning coils and rewicking...

 

[msakyuz]

Thanks @saytar
Where can I find a 25mm heatsink in US? Is the only option Chinese dealers?

Sencer

 

[blipt]

They sell just the deck for around $10="http://www.eciggity.com/smok-tf-rta-g2-deck//[URL]

 

[msakyuz]

I ordered one already, thanks anyway @blipt

Sencer

 

[saytar]

Thanks @saytar
Where can I find a 25mm heatsink in US? Is the only option Chinese dealers?

Sencer

Not sure there are any 25mm in size (as most 510's on the mods I've seen are all 22mm)......the one's I use are 22mm and fit the depressions in the mod's perfectly, I'll admit that it results in a rather odd look but since I've started using them I very rarely get the mod dropping out of TC and as for Atomizer shorts none since using them (any shorts I DO get have all been due to the coils touching the post on the deck...my clumsy bad). I have only had the Cuboid drop out once in the last couple of months, and that was most likely due to the mod hitting the floor (nope didn't break, just caused it to drop out of TC..seems that the SMOK RTA's are prone to this, all my other brands don't seem to have this issue).....
It ain't pretty, but so far they have worked beautifully...........so being the functional over beauty type guy I am, I'm tickled pink! (I'd rather have an enthusiastic ...cough..cough ....woman than a boring top model any time too!)

 

[msakyuz]

Thanks again bro. Seems like Chinese guys have it in 25mm diameter. Yours was a really good advice arrive coz I am practical too.

Sencer

 

[saytar]

Thanks again bro. Seems like Chinese guys have it in 25mm diameter. Yours was a really good advice arrive coz I am practical too.

Sencer

Kool, thats good to know.............guess when I can I might order a few myself, just cause. I could use a few more.

 

[msakyuz]

Well I hope that and changing the core of tf-rta will solve my problem. I think I have made the combo
Error prone joyetech 510 connector and not adjustable smok pin
Smok TF-RTA is wonderful btw

Sencer

 

[SomeAnonGuy]

Something something tapping and tolerances..

Just registered to say thanks and that indeed, the area where the deck and the base meet must have some incredibly tight tolerances. I dropped my mod with my G4 on it an hour ago and kept getting "Check Atomizer", wasn't even a bend in the tank either. Googled around a bit and came across this post, then took to the base with a hammer and gave it a few love taps. Reads just fine now, and actually reads .14 that the preinstalled claptons come at. Before I kept getting around .16-.17 and figured it was a margin of error kind of thing with my mod reading such a low ohms. Never doubt the power of percussive maintenance.

Thanks again.