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Eleaf removable battery mod and first post "big Pics"

ManaBase

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Hey Everyone

im new to the forums and instead of the typical "hey may name is" bullshit that no one gives a fuck about i thought i would put together a build/mod log and a quick little story of how it came to be.

i live in cottage country and the shop that is closest to me is anything but a propper vape store. really its a used computer store and they guy sells some basic stuff like twist vv batteries and some realy shitty e-juice ( not his fault but its popular up here ) he is a pretty cool guy and i like to pop in and give him some business when i can. never the less when i need any mod supplies or decent juice im off to a bigger city. it was one of these trips where i was struck with this little eleaf project.

so i poped into a little shop because i wanted to check out a new line of juice they were launching. i went in grabbed some kanthal and another protank3 for the car and a few bottles of their new juice they didnt have a testing station set up but i grabbed a couple anyway. long story short the new juice was absolutely vile. like SO FUCKING BAD there was no way i could vape this shit for a few weeks untill i get back to the city. so after about an hour of vaping all of the flavours testing them out i quickly jumped online and found another shop i could go to. now it was about 5:45 and i was freaking out cause the shop was closing at 6 with me about 20 min away. so needless to say i was tripping balls at the prospect of vaping this horse piss for 2 weeks.

The guy at the shop was SUPER chill. he said no worries ill be here for a bit. got to MoJo vapes and it was an awesome little shop. he insisted that i hop on the sampler and figure out what i wanted even tho the store was technically closed. there was one other guy in the shop and he was pretty cool too so we all got chatting. and they were talking about the eleaf and how shitty the usb connection is on it. id never had an eleaf but i wasnt surprised. the employee said they had a couple and went and grabbed one for us to fuck with.

we immediately ripped it apart and started of thinking about solutions we checked to see if it was the same battery size as an 18650 and low and behold it was. we all immediately thought "removable battery". at this time it was late and we were all done so the employee threw us each a broken eleaf and a battery and said go to town.


so a Removable battery Eleaf
this build log is my implementation of that goal.


here we go

lets show the parts
1.0.jpg


so not only was the usb an issue when we ripped it apart we fucked up one of the surface mount buttons

first things first i needed to fix the button
2.0.jpg


i grabbed a cap off a cheap bottom dial vv mod and i pulled the button from it and threw it onto the eleaf board
2.3.jpg

2.4.jpg

(spoiler) the next two pics are after the mod was done and YES i did get it working. so they are showing that the button works
2.6.jpg

2.7.jpg

now with the button working i needed to turn my attention to the battery mod. the first thing i needed was a spring. i looked through my shit drawer and found an old incandescent 3 volt flashlight with a great spring in it. 3.0 so i immediately ripped that shit out and it was perfect
3.0.jpg

3.1.jpg


now turning my attention to the construction of the spring for the bottom cap 3.2 and 3.3 i took just some card stock i had laying around cut the spring in half slotted one piece of card and applied some crazy glue and then used some accelerator. using this method makes the superglue wick through the card stock and make a rigid almost plastic like insulator.
3.4.jpg

3.6.jpg


in hindsight i would do this differently next time perhaps using a foam two sided disc as an additional isolater. never the less i was committed to get the unit working in 1 evening so i forged on. i connected the spring to the positive lead on the board and placed it on the bottom cap
3.7.jpg


fastened the bottom cap and checked the spring deflection
3.9-1.jpg

3.9-2.jpg


perfect (well not bad for not making a single measurement)

So now lets turn our attention to the top gap. i was very happy with the top gap as you can see
4.0.jpg

4.1.jpg

so i figured if it worked for the bottom a spring on my improvised card-stock wafer should work for that as well so i fashioned another using the same method as before. however this time i made the spring shorter as I didn't need quite as much bounce as you can see
4.2.jpg

4.3.jpg


it worked nicely and provided a very snug fit for the 18650 battery. i modified the wiring harness so the top could be removed easily for battery swapping
4.4.jpg

4.5.jpg

put it all back together and boom it turned on and worked like a charm and i present
5.jpg



i threw on the protank3 i bought earlier in the day filled it up with some whirling dirvish and punched it up to around 14 watts and needless to say it vaped great.


so Victory

now i would like to go over a few things i would have changed in my build

#1 i would have build it with the spring on the top cap so when you change the battery you have to pull the bottom cap and not the top. there is

too much shit going on under the top cap with the tank connecter and the wires for it to be poping it on and off all the time

#2 while i love the superglue $ activator combo i would use the foam 2-sided discsas isolaters between the top and bottom caps

#3 only 1 spring on the top cap. the tension when putting either cap on is insanely to high theres too much bounce

#4 probably the most important thing i would do if i were to make another Eleaf mod or realy any mod... I would have measured i probably could

have avoided #1 and #3 if i would have grabbed some quick dimensions.

again i would like to give a big shout out and thank you to MoJo vapes in Peterborough ontario. this shop is awesome and without doubt one of the

best shops in Peterborough and the entire kawartha lakes

you can go check them out at

(705) 808-3208
193 Simcoe St.
Charlotte Mews
Peterborough, ON


disclaimer: they didnt pay me for this. they did give me the parts but at no time was there an agreement that i would promote their business in any way for it. i even paid for the juice


Luke
 

moecat

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Great first post and welcome! :)
 

kelli

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well, my istick got knocked off the table and the charging jack thingie came loose. i looked at all your pix, but i am the least mechanically inclined person on the planet, so it looked all complicated to me. but i am sure it's really a good presentation to those who understand such things. :)
 

ManaBase

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well, my istick got knocked off the table and the charging jack thingie came loose. i looked at all your pix, but i am the least mechanically inclined person on the planet, so it looked all complicated to me. but i am sure it's really a good presentation to those who understand such things. :)
Sorry to hear your istick got damaged but It really wasn't that difficult just a bit of soldering. I'm sure you could do it
 

ManaBase

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Welcome ManaBase, great post!
Hey Thanks I'm glad you liked it

sofar its been a pretty good experience. Everyone has been pretty awesome.
 

kelli

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Sorry to hear your istick got damaged but It really wasn't that difficult just a bit of soldering. I'm sure you could do it

haha....are you new here???
giggle.gif
 

ManaBase

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haha....are you new here???
giggle.gif
yeah I am new here that gives me the advantage of ignorance

but i think you can do it. give it a try whats the worse you can do break something that's already broken
 

moecat

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@ManaBase , by the way, did you use an Allen wrench or a hex screwdriver to remove the top and bottom plates? What size, if you remember?
 

kelli

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yeah I am new here that gives me the advantage of ignorance

but i think you can do it. give it a try whats the worse you can do break something that's already broken

ok i'll give it a go, but if i break a nail it's all your fault. :p
 

ManaBase

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@ManaBase , by the way, did you use an Allen wrench or a hex screwdriver to remove the top and bottom plates? What size, if you remember?
I actually used a small flat screwdriver because it was the closest thing. It was a small hex if memory serves
 

ManaBase

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ok i'll give it a go, but if i break a nail it's all your fault. :p
Deal

I'll take you for a manicure if you break a nail
and if you fix it you have to admit your a mod ninja
 

Damwow

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well, my istick got knocked off the table and the charging jack thingie came loose. i looked at all your pix, but i am the least mechanically inclined person on the planet, so it looked all complicated to me. but i am sure it's really a good presentation to those who understand such things. :)
Kelli pm me I have a guy on here that fixed my dna 30 box the pass thru quit working, he did a great job
 

Damwow

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Welcome to the underground! Love the way you did your introduction post!
 

Warhawk-AVG

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Nice...

One thing on the mod, the springs are a wee bit thin, you are probably loosing alot of volts/current thru the resistance in those springs, taking a bit of solder braid and soldering to the center of the top and down to the wire gives a HUGE reduction in resistance and loss thru the springs...but 20 watts max really ain't a HUGE amount of current compared to say a 100 watt fog throwing beast

Other than that kick ass mod bro! No longer have to use that "bulk generic BS Chinese battery" and use a good high current high mAh rating battery...awesome!

Welcome aboard man!
 

ManaBase

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Nice...

One thing on the mod, the springs are a wee bit thin, you are probably loosing alot of volts/current thru the resistance in those springs, taking a bit of solder braid and soldering to the center of the top and down to the wire gives a HUGE reduction in resistance and loss thru the springs...but 20 watts max really ain't a HUGE amount of current compared to say a 100 watt fog throwing beast

Other than that kick ass mod bro! No longer have to use that "bulk generic BS Chinese battery" and use a good high current high mAh rating battery...awesome!

Welcome aboard man!
Yea it was loosing quite a bit. The build concluded around 5am so just working was where I declared victory

However I've decided that I'm going to tear it down and make a full boxmod out of it. Gonna use proper 18650 holders and a good 510 maybe some swanky buttons,perhaps even a backlight. The goal is to have the box and components worth more than the original istick

Maybe do an internal switch with two separate battery systems try and shoot for 4 days vaping at 15 watts without recharging

Re-engineering for the sake of re-engineering. That and I have to change voltage with a screw driver as we broke the button holder with our "enthusiasm" while opening it

Thanks for the comments
Welcome to the underground! Love the way you did your introduction post!
Thank you very much. I hate the "hi my name is Tim and I'm an avid koala hunter" or whatever people say about them selves.

I figured something that might spark an interest or get someone hacking their stuff is a win in my books

 

kelli

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What happened? Did it release the magical smoke of happiness

no, it released the stench of dead istick. it won't do anything now. just lies there. dark. dead. deceased. so sad. too bad. :(
 

kelli

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Kelli pm me I have a guy on here that fixed my dna 30 box the pass thru quit working, he did a great job

thanks but you're too late sweetie. i sent it to another guy i know. if he can fix it, he will pass it on to someone who needs it worse than i do. i have 3 others. :)
 

Uber300

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@ManaBase
What a great first post, just a wonderful post in general. I did the same thing with my VaporSharkDNA30, Instead of making mine a pop in/ pop out battery, I changed the battery to a SonyVTC5. The VS has a great micro-usb charging port, but came with a 1200mah battery, needless to say, if you wanted to vape on 30watts, it would only last about 15 minutes, if you were lucky. Now I get about 2-3 hours of vape time at 30watts.
They only thing I would have changed about your design (believe me, I was very impressed with what you accomplished). I would have used copper PCB board in place of the card stock that held your spring. Absolutely Brilliant man!!!!!
 

ManaBase

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@ManaBase
What a great first post, just a wonderful post in general. I did the same thing with my VaporSharkDNA30, Instead of making mine a pop in/ pop out battery, I changed the battery to a SonyVTC5. The VS has a great micro-usb charging port, but came with a 1200mah battery, needless to say, if you wanted to vape on 30watts, it would only last about 15 minutes, if you were lucky. Now I get about 2-3 hours of vape time at 30watts.
They only thing I would have changed about your design (believe me, I was very impressed with what you accomplished). I would have used copper PCB board in place of the card stock that held your spring. Absolutely Brilliant man!!!!!

Thanks I'm glad you liked it.

The PCB is an interesting thought. However my primary goal was isolation as the unit doesn't have a common ground. I was pretty worried about shorting.
 

Uber300

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Of course
 

kelli

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That's one of my favorite questions to ask people IRL

yeah, well i have to ask, cause of the trail of damaged or broken people i've left in my wake. :p
 

ManaBase

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yeah, well i have to ask, cause of the trail of damaged or broken people i've left in my wake. :p
Lol welcome to the club ...

I guess "technically" some people
Would "consider" me
An ”asshole"

Bastards !

 

Uber300

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I'm a highly functional nonviolent sociopath, so I leave many broken people in my wake
 

kelli

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The Motley Vapor

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nice post welcome i have the same project going i did the same thing to the button lol got it all together put phillips screws in bottom power on bottom the problem im having is after a few battery changes the wire breaks need to solder again thinking of reversing wires grounding to case then only need to remove bottom cap like other mods before i do was wondering if you came up with a good solution
 

UncleRJ

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A much belated welcome from me as well as a job well done with this post/project!
 

Rin Vapes

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I took my iStick apart because I wanted to see if I could replace the 510 connection as the threads were stripped. What a shit storm inside. I ended up losing one of those button cushions (for lack of a better term) as well and didn't even know until I went to actually try to fix the damn thing. I eventually want to try to use what left to mod it but don't know if I'll actually ever do it. Yours is the first I've seen. It looks good.
 

Mykline

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Great first post. I would most likely do the same thing. I even bought a broken MVP version 1 just to fix it. Got one hell of a deal on it. Could tell by his pictures what needed to be fixed before I bought it. All I had to do to fix it was reset the 510 and solder two wires.
Plus I got two kanger pro tanks a kanger pro tank 3 and a iTaste VTR box in the deal.
 
Great post! I was looking for your pictures on this post but they seem to have disappeared. Is it possible to repost this? I need to replace the power button as it got ripped off. Is there is a circuit diagram for this piece? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Just the textual parts helped quite a bit btw...

Thanks! DooshBagVapr
 

pete67

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Great post! I was looking for your pictures on this post but they seem to have disappeared. Is it possible to repost this? I need to replace the power button as it got ripped off. Is there is a circuit diagram for this piece? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Just the textual parts helped quite a bit btw...

Thanks! DooshBagVapr
Hello and welcome to VU. I hope they put the pictures back on.
 

pete67

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