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Evic Vtc Mini 2 0 Update & Install
- Thread starter Jh Vapes
- Start date
Thanks for posting this. I just downloaded the update. Stainless Steel temp control is the #1 thing I hoped for from this mod.
The stainless steel dual-coil Crown heads have nickle legs welded to the coils. Only the 1.2 ohm heads have pure SS wire and they're too high ohm for temp control. For SS temp control on the Crown it would probably be best to either use the RBA or rebuild a normal head with pure SS wire. I just did the mod upgrade. Think I'll try the eGo One Mega with a rebuilt stainless steel coil first, and the Crown with a rebuilt SS head later tonight.
Edit to add: I threw in a 26 gauge 316L spaced coil into a eGo One head. It came out to 0.54 ohms and it's working in SS temp control mode with the VTC v1.30 update.
Edit to add: I threw in a 26 gauge 316L spaced coil into a eGo One head. It came out to 0.54 ohms and it's working in SS temp control mode with the VTC v1.30 update.
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Agreed. Do you have just 316 or others as well?
If that's what's in the lower res Crown heads, could the NR-R-NR throw the TC off?
Could the VTC's SS TCR be for the 316?
Stay tuned readers... for those answers... and more running acronyms... later tonight.
Sadly no. I only have 316 in 24, 26, 28 & 30 gauge. I definitely agree that the NR-R-NR wire would throw the temp control off. I haven't tried using a stock SS Crown head with the new VTC update, but it could also have something to do with the .25 & .5 coils being parallel. Pretty much every Ni or Ti coil head uses a single wire coil. Also, for temp control to work properly the coil should not be contact coil. You want an evenly spaced coil with a solid contact at the connection for reliable readings with any TC mod.
The stock Crown coils have a few things that make them sketchy for SS TC. They are dual parallel, the parallel coils sometimes make contact, and they have NR-R-NR legs.
Does anybody know of any functional Ni or Ti heads that have parallel coils?
I did the upgrade and on SS mode 60 watts and resistance locked at .53 the crown coil is working great,no complaints here.
Great to hear. Thanks for posting. I have a fresh box of .5 ohm Crown coils and it would be great if they work with the update. I've used them in Ni or Ti temp control mode on the VTC before the upgrade and those coils would throw the mod back into power mode every once in a while. Lots of people have found them to be extremely hit or miss. It would be nice if we didn't have to rebuild the normal Crown coils. I'll wait for more feedback before giving them a go.
I too haven't had any issues with the .25 stock coils in ss tc mode.
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Uwell says the prebuilt coil is "SUS316 heating wire".
Been vaping the stock SS Crown coils all night with zero issues...nickel legs or not. Just seems to work.
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Done and done...works great with SS316. Very pleased.
Definitely. 316 wire will work perfectly with the new VTC upgrade. I've been vaping on it all night in temp mode. Drained a tank bone dry to see if it would give a burnt hit and it never came close. I couldn't be happier. The upgrade works.
I'm so impressed that Joyetech put out two separate updates, one for people who want the new screen layout and one for those who prefer the original screen. Now that stainless is working for TC I'm definitely getting a second VTC.
Mal the Mello King
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I've been using the 0.25 coil for the crown with no issues so far and now they have a gold mod coming out I can see myself getting that lol.. They would release new stuff just after I bought the black one
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I think I'll get one of the new kits, but you're right, the TRON-T looks ridiculous. I'd get the S or the original kit in white before the TRON-T. I can't believe they still plan on putting those awful CL coils with the new kits. So many people throw their tanks in the trash when they try the eGo One Mega with those lousy coils. I'd like to see a review of the TRON tanks before getting a new kit with one. I'd like to know that the airflow won't be restricted or noisy. It's a strange design. Who knows, it could be open and dead silent, but I don't want to be the guinea pig. If the new VTC kit costs a lot more than the original I'll be happy with another first gen.
Mal the Mello King
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That's a good point.. I'm sure it'll be thoroughly reviewed soon or at least by the time I'm out of basic training and back in the world lol.. But at the rate vaping is evolving I'm sure it'll probably be loads of new stuff to catch up on by then!!
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Don't be a chicken shit... test the tank.
Andy's got one for ya right here, only $15... http://www.vapingunderground.com/threads/joyetech-tron-s-t-atomizer-kit-14-99.154338/
Or the whole smash for $50.
Oops... Black only so far. of course.
Damn. Only $50 for the new kit. I'd happily order a white or grey one for that price, but China shipping is a no go around the holidays, especially for mods. If he gets them in the US warehouse for that price it's a done deal.
The Ijoy Solo Mini also looks interesting, but I'm already in love with the large vertical screen and all around performance of the VTC. It looks like 2016 is gonna kick ass, as long as the government doesn't shut the industry down.
Um I dont think you know what you talking about sir becasue there is no weld marks on any of my coils what so ever have i have pulled them apart
You couldn't be more wrong kid. The .25 and .5 Crown coils use dual parallel coils and they both have non resistance wire legs. They are welded where the dual coils turn into single strands. Only the 1.2 ohm SS heads are free from welds and they're useless for temp control on the VTC. It can't do TC above 1 ohm. I've rebuilt every Crown head on the market. I certainly do know what I'm talking about.
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I have taken mine apart there in no weld marks or anything so nice try stop spreading rumors this has been debunked a while back by many reviewers
That's a tough question. The problem is, I'm not a high wattage vaper so I never push my coils. Even on the Crown I don't vape above 30 watts (my current RBA build is running at a nice and cool 20w). On the eGo One I have a CLR build with a .54Ω SS coil set to 25w at 380°. It was running at 35w 400° yesterday when I was trying to burn the cotton and it was fine.
About the prebuilt kanthal heads.. I'm honestly not sure what they can handle but I'm pretty sure I vaped them above 20 watts with no issues. I always have my own coils in the CLR heads so it's been a while since I vaped on a stock coil. If you're getting a burnt taste I would remove the cotton and check how the coils are spaced. You can actually dry burn the coil if you're careful and don't burn it too hot. Use 20w pulses to get the coils glowing and see if it has hot spots, then rinse the coil under water to cool it down. You don't want to burn the insulator. If you see a hot spot you can either build a new coil or space out the hot spot until the coil glows evenly. Rewicking is a piece of cake. It doesn't take a lot of cotton for the 2.5mm coil.
My last kanthal CLR build was a .9Ω twisted wire contact-coil. If you have some twisted kanthal I highly recommend it. Cutting the leads is tricky but the flavor rocked, it wicked beautifully, and it liked more watts. That said, my current 26 gauge .54Ω spaced coil is outstanding with temp control on the VTC Mini. You can definitely run it hotter without getting a burnt hit. I completely dried out the cotton last night. Vaped it until the tank was bone dry and it still has the same cotton in it today. If you want a warm vape with a CLR head then 26 gauge stainless steel is a great option for temp control. For kanthal I like 28 gauge twisted wire in a CLR. That's just my experience. Every vaper has their own favorite builds for each atty. I prefer a .9Ω Clapton in the Crown RBA.
Do you have a link to a reviewer that show the .25 or .5Ω coils without non-resistance legs? Either Uwell changed the design of their coils or you are misunderstanding which coils we are talking about. Every single one of my stainless steel .25 & .5 Crown coils uses NR-R-NR wire.
Edit ti add: I have an worn Crown coil saved that I use as a reference to rebuild the heads. Just checked again. It clearly has NR wire welded to the dual coils. I used a magnified visor. If I was wrong about anything it was thinking that the 1.2Ω coil did not have NR-R-NR wire legs. They also have welded legs. That means ALL Crown SS coil heads have NR-R-NR wire. Need proof: CLICK HERE <<-- <<--
How do you like them apples? Get a magnifier! I needed one to be certain myself, which is why I use a visor to rebuild. It helps fight the stupid.
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Same here, except my "cold" coil read 0.52 Ohm. The important thing here is, you must lock in the resistance.
Yup. I've only rolled for my RDAs. While I've never cracked the case, I do rewick my square heads... just like that. Gotta watch out for that tiny insulator.
Well, it's plugging away well enough at 17w and better air and flavor than the CLs, so I'll dig into the issue later. And I do have a bit of twisted 28, but I'll probably hold off on that until I've done a couple of these things. Fiddly little builds.
Thanks... now to see how best to slow the leaking of the Crown RBA.
The best trick I've found for the Crown RBA is to wick a 2.5mm diameter coil like normal (covering up the juice holes with dry cotton), then wet the cotton with juice and gently rework the wet cotton so it "sticks" to the inner wall around the juice holes. I don't force it, I just make sure the cotton is covering the holes and sticking to the inner wall "around" those holes. Almost every time I've straight wicked, primed and vaped the RBA without reworking the wet cotton it has leaked. Sticking the wet cotton to the walls has kept it from leaking at all during normal use... unless I top fill. That's always Russian roulette.
I'm sure there's probably a better way. Hopefully somebody will post it.
I have one RBA for my two Crowns. However, I'm still using the replacement coil heads.
I wonder, if it would help to run the cotton through the coil as usual, but leaving longer wicks, putting the ends together (towards the top), threading it through the chamber, while putting the chamber on, then gently pushing and spreading the cotton in the chamber, of course paying attention, not to hinder the airflow. I guess, with this method, the trick is to find the proper length of those wicks, in order to find the right balance for wicking material in the chamber. Too much, you get dry hits, too little, it will leak.
I'm not sure if a pan cake wick would work.
I wonder, if it would help to run the cotton through the coil as usual, but leaving longer wicks, putting the ends together (towards the top), threading it through the chamber, while putting the chamber on, then gently pushing and spreading the cotton in the chamber, of course paying attention, not to hinder the airflow. I guess, with this method, the trick is to find the proper length of those wicks, in order to find the right balance for wicking material in the chamber. Too much, you get dry hits, too little, it will leak.
I'm not sure if a pan cake wick would work.
Just stuff it in there! (That's what she said)Well, I was picturing last night some combo/variation of both your suggestions. I just called it "pancake" almost generically. Building in an enclosed space is going to be a new experience for me.
Oh joy.
How dafug we get to Crown tank and coils from Evic Mini?
Does anyone know if the wattage spike was addressed with the firmware update?
Does anyone know if the wattage spike was addressed with the firmware update?
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1.) The Crown's replacement coils can now be used in TC with the VCT Mini.
2.) I never had any issues with the wattage spiking, with firmware V1.20 & V2.0. Can you give more details?
I'll see if I can find the link again referencing it.
In the meantime, it referenced the VT & the VTC, with a graph display. Showing an initial surge that lasted for approximately 1.5 seconds when the button was pressed, then dropping back into normal operating range.
I have both, I love the hell out of them. They're not causing any issues, and I haven't updated my firmware on the mini yet. I was just curious if the update included a fix.
IMO, this surge is done on purpose, in order the heat up the coil quicker when in TC. You can see that happening on a virgin DNA200 as well. However, w/ the DNA200 you can adjust it via Software.
That's my thoughts also. But some people complained about burning cotton. I've never had that issue. I found it rather nice that it did it in power mode too.
I'll update when I get home. And hope for the best
I never noticed a surge in power mode, but then I upgraded my VTC mini to FW V1.20 the same day, I received it. However, you would need an ozilloscope, in order to measure it properly.
The guy that posted the info used one. It spiked at just over 30 watts briefly.
I don't consider it an issue really. But I only noticed the difference because I go between the Evic and a MVP. It's noticeable. But I just assumed that was what was meant to be happening.
I was just wondering if it had been changed in the firmware update. Either way, I'll still be using it.
There was a youtube review where the guy talked about the surge, but I thought it was fixed with the v1.2 update. Maybe I'm remembering it wrong. If I can find it I'll post a link. I don't personally notice any boost when vaping in TC with stainless steel.The guy that posted the info used one. It spiked at just over 30 watts briefly.
I don't consider it an issue really. But I only noticed the difference because I go between the Evic and a MVP. It's noticeable. But I just assumed that was what was meant to be happening.
I was just wondering if it had been changed in the firmware update. Either way, I'll still be using it.
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I haven't applied any updates. So I don't know what's happened where. That's the reason for my asking.
But the SS option intrigues me. So I guess it's time to.
The SS option is why you saw so many posts about the Crown, due to it's replacement coils being made of SS wire. I also tested the SS temp control with my Crown. Just one word! Awesome! Just make sure to lock in the coil's resistance while the coil is at room temp.
I was able to test the SS TC with a Triton SS coil....NICE!!!!
hey i just got 316L in from lightning vapes. built a new coil (.16ohm), mounted it on my new Rafale X rda, and went to fire it on my VTC mini only for the device to jump out of SS316 mode and into power mode.
what gives?
i normally run Ti wire in Ti mode. never had an issue with my VTC mini until now trying to run SS316. i havent updated since the first time they introduced the SS mode in an update. and this is the first time im attempting to use SS mode. should i try to update again? was the first SS upgrade not so good?
any help is appreciated!
what gives?
i normally run Ti wire in Ti mode. never had an issue with my VTC mini until now trying to run SS316. i havent updated since the first time they introduced the SS mode in an update. and this is the first time im attempting to use SS mode. should i try to update again? was the first SS upgrade not so good?
any help is appreciated!
I believe it has been improved, it can't hurt to upgrade to the latest firmware and see if it helps
What kind of coils did you make with the SS wire?
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The Rafale X is a tricky RDA but it could be anything. We need to know what kind of coil you made (spaced, contact, etc.). It's a good idea to upgrade. They really did make the temp control functions better, but the newest interface is a little different. That said, I never had an issue using SS in TC with the firmware you are using unless my build was off. I'm running a 316L Clapton coil from Lightning Vapes in temp control in a Merlin RTA on a VTC mini right now.
You may want to try a different RDA before anything else.
You may want to try a different RDA before anything else.
That's a strong possibility... I have pretty much zero problems with my lightly spaced SS.
SS is approaching the dodgy edge of current TC, the fewer potential resistance trouble factors... the better.
I'm running a SS vertibraid coil from Advanced Vape Supply in one of my tanks right now using a VTC Mini (another Merlin RTA). You absolutely must make a spaced coil for TC to work with vertibraid wire reliably. They sometimes need to be dry burned to make sure you don't have hot spots or hot legs. It isn't hard, but vertibraid needs more attention than any other type of wire I've used for temp control. Finicky stuff. Once you make one that's nicely spaced and the leads are tight it's a terrific vape. Absolutely first rate and it works very well on the VTC Mini in TC.
That said, I prefer 316L Clapton wire. Just normal single core 316L clapton wire. It's every bit as easy to make a reliable build for SS TC as normal wire, but the flavor improves. It isn't necessarily better than vertibraid, just more user friendly.
TROOTH! That's why I prefer normal single-core Clapton wire for my SS TC builds. Works every time. I say that but I'm using a fused Clapton in one Merlin and a vertibraid in another.LOL... we do everything we can think of to make TC harder.
Low TCR wire... exotic, wrapped, fused, contact etc. coils... minimal resistance when higher should be better.
We're our own worst enemies.
At least I have a normal SS Clapton in the Bachelor mini, but that's on a Pico and not a VTC Mini.
ok so i was able to update and now my VTC isnt jumping out of SS316 mode anymore. still have some issues tho... now the temp does not seem to get anywhere near the set temp. at least not on the display. what is happening tho is that the coil is getting red hot! temp control is def not working on my SS build.
none of this nonsense ever happened with Ti wire. i could build any kind of coil and the TC on my VTC mini has always been reliable.
so is it my my build? is it the wire? is SS wire just more finnicky and has to be spaced? my Ti coils never needed to be spaced.
i think im going back to Ti. i just hate having to work so hard to clean it. even the Ti from lightning vapes comes pretty dirty and its a PITA to clean. still better than the TC not working however. ugh
none of this nonsense ever happened with Ti wire. i could build any kind of coil and the TC on my VTC mini has always been reliable.
so is it my my build? is it the wire? is SS wire just more finnicky and has to be spaced? my Ti coils never needed to be spaced.
i think im going back to Ti. i just hate having to work so hard to clean it. even the Ti from lightning vapes comes pretty dirty and its a PITA to clean. still better than the TC not working however. ugh
Were you using a Ti vertibraid contact coil in temp control? That would be the only fair way to make a comparison to your current build. The 316L vertibraid will work fine on the VTC mini but it should be a spaced coil with firmly tightened grub screws.
gotcha. yeah its not spaced. so there lies my issues i believe. on to LV to order more Ti. now ive got 95+ feet of SS wire ill never use. knew i shoulda ordered the 25 footerz.