In 2021, Squid Game proved it isn’t only New York set shows like And Just Like That… and Gossip Girl that leave a long-lasting mark on fashion. Not only is it Netflix’s biggest series launch of all time, but it instantly created a defining image and the go-to Halloween costume only a month after it first hit the streamer. Now in an exclusive to IGN video, costume designer Cho Sang-kyung explains the inspiration behind the teal tracksuit and red guard uniforms, which have since caused a global sensation.
“I wanted the viewers to have the same first impression of the series as I did,” Sang-kyung says about her experience of reading creator Hwang Dong-hyuk’s immersive script. Not only did the designer factor in the words on the page when conceptualizing the look, but she also considered the Netflix user interface, and what might stand out amid the interminable scroll. The bright color palette serves a dual purpose in this respect as it is eye-catching if you don’t know what the series is, and it is also an easily identifiable marker when you are familiar with the South Korean series.
Sang-kyung’s has a history of creating memorable costumes and her previous work includes, The Handmaiden, Oldboy, The Host, and Lady Vengeance. This year marks the first time Sang-kyung has been nominated for a Costume Designers Guild Award, which honors excellence in film, television, and short form design — the ceremony takes place on March 9. The TV and film categories are separated into Period, Sci-Fi/Fantasy, and Contemporary with Squid Game appearing in the latter. It is an eclectic group that speaks to the breadth of contemporary costume design, which features Emily in Paris, Euphoria, Hacks, and Mare of Easttown.
The episode the designer submitted is “VIPs,” which not only features the signature contestant and guard threads, but also the ornate masks and opulent robes worn by the titular VIPs. Despite the overt dystopian setting this version of South Korea is not set in some miserable future but grounded in our reality. This is particularly evident in the clothing worn by protagonist Seong Gi-hun (Lee Jung-jae) when he tries to dress up for his daughter’s birthday before he enters the murky game world. Sang-kyung notes the “mix-matched” well-worn suit jacket and baseball cap are not what typical fathers in South Korea wear. Rather, it speaks to his financial predicament, immaturity, and anxious state — not an alternate universe.
Putting the contestants in the same retro tracksuit, classic baseball raglan, and slip-on white sneakers could be viewed as stripping these players from their identity (aside from a number), but Sang-kyung’s intention is to give the marginalized members of this society a voice through their attire. “I wanted their presence to stand out, so I suggested dressing the characters in matching tracksuits commonly sold in the past in supplies stores in front of schools,” she says. The school reference also nods to the childhood games that have been transformed into a deadly contest.
“As always, a simpler approach sends a stronger message,” she says about this captivating aesthetic. The teal tracksuit is a reference to the designer’s youth, which in turn informed the masked guard attire. Sang-kyung explained to Dong-hyuk the uniform would pop off the screen if she used a contrasting shade, which is how the menacing visual came to life. The opening game also incorporates these two colors, but it is the crimson splatter that acts as the contrast during “Red Light, Green Light.”
The Squid Game contestants endure a variety of physical challenges and Sang-kyung also had to consider the function of these garments whether during the tug-of-war game or the dormitory fight to the death. A tracksuit is functional from both the storyline point-of-view and for the actors performing these scenes.
Sweats have been a staple during the pandemic and the utilitarian contestant outfits also tapped into a work from home sartorial statement. No wonder it caused a spike in online searches for similar garments. In October, global fashion shopping platform Lyst reported spikes in retro-inspired tracksuits (up by 97%) only days after the series had landed on the streamer. The most popular item was white slip-on sneakers with searches increasing by a whopping 145% — Vans being the most viewed — and even the color teal was up 130% from the previous week. It cannot be understated how much Sang-kyung’s designs impacted fall shopping in 2021. Even red boiler suits and white t-shirts saw an increase in demand. It is unclear whether the expanded Squid Game universe will continue this surprising fashion influence with any new trends, regardless, the tracksuit has already made the costume hall of fame.
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“I wanted the viewers to have the same first impression of the series as I did,” Sang-kyung says about her experience of reading creator Hwang Dong-hyuk’s immersive script. Not only did the designer factor in the words on the page when conceptualizing the look, but she also considered the Netflix user interface, and what might stand out amid the interminable scroll. The bright color palette serves a dual purpose in this respect as it is eye-catching if you don’t know what the series is, and it is also an easily identifiable marker when you are familiar with the South Korean series.
Sang-kyung’s has a history of creating memorable costumes and her previous work includes, The Handmaiden, Oldboy, The Host, and Lady Vengeance. This year marks the first time Sang-kyung has been nominated for a Costume Designers Guild Award, which honors excellence in film, television, and short form design — the ceremony takes place on March 9. The TV and film categories are separated into Period, Sci-Fi/Fantasy, and Contemporary with Squid Game appearing in the latter. It is an eclectic group that speaks to the breadth of contemporary costume design, which features Emily in Paris, Euphoria, Hacks, and Mare of Easttown.
The episode the designer submitted is “VIPs,” which not only features the signature contestant and guard threads, but also the ornate masks and opulent robes worn by the titular VIPs. Despite the overt dystopian setting this version of South Korea is not set in some miserable future but grounded in our reality. This is particularly evident in the clothing worn by protagonist Seong Gi-hun (Lee Jung-jae) when he tries to dress up for his daughter’s birthday before he enters the murky game world. Sang-kyung notes the “mix-matched” well-worn suit jacket and baseball cap are not what typical fathers in South Korea wear. Rather, it speaks to his financial predicament, immaturity, and anxious state — not an alternate universe.
Putting the contestants in the same retro tracksuit, classic baseball raglan, and slip-on white sneakers could be viewed as stripping these players from their identity (aside from a number), but Sang-kyung’s intention is to give the marginalized members of this society a voice through their attire. “I wanted their presence to stand out, so I suggested dressing the characters in matching tracksuits commonly sold in the past in supplies stores in front of schools,” she says. The school reference also nods to the childhood games that have been transformed into a deadly contest.
“As always, a simpler approach sends a stronger message,” she says about this captivating aesthetic. The teal tracksuit is a reference to the designer’s youth, which in turn informed the masked guard attire. Sang-kyung explained to Dong-hyuk the uniform would pop off the screen if she used a contrasting shade, which is how the menacing visual came to life. The opening game also incorporates these two colors, but it is the crimson splatter that acts as the contrast during “Red Light, Green Light.”
The Squid Game contestants endure a variety of physical challenges and Sang-kyung also had to consider the function of these garments whether during the tug-of-war game or the dormitory fight to the death. A tracksuit is functional from both the storyline point-of-view and for the actors performing these scenes.
Sweats have been a staple during the pandemic and the utilitarian contestant outfits also tapped into a work from home sartorial statement. No wonder it caused a spike in online searches for similar garments. In October, global fashion shopping platform Lyst reported spikes in retro-inspired tracksuits (up by 97%) only days after the series had landed on the streamer. The most popular item was white slip-on sneakers with searches increasing by a whopping 145% — Vans being the most viewed — and even the color teal was up 130% from the previous week. It cannot be understated how much Sang-kyung’s designs impacted fall shopping in 2021. Even red boiler suits and white t-shirts saw an increase in demand. It is unclear whether the expanded Squid Game universe will continue this surprising fashion influence with any new trends, regardless, the tracksuit has already made the costume hall of fame.
Continue reading...