First Mech

[407Vapes]

So I am currently thinking about investing in my first Mech and an RDA. I would first like to say I do not know much about Mech mods or building my own atomizers, but I'll just YouTube that later. This thread is for you guys to give me suggestions on what to get.
There are a few parameters that I ask you all follow:
1. Please keep all suggestions under $150 for the mod and atty.
2. Please post a picture or a link to where I can get it.
3. Have fun with it, I'm totally open to styles, colors, and sizes.


P.S. I would also take suggestions for box mods as well seeing as that I currently use an MVP.

 

[VapeChild]

Im also pretty new to mech mods. But a word to the wise. If you buy a clone, review the manufacture of the clone (ie ehpro, hcigar...) i bought a clone (mod) on amazon and thought i was set. I ended up buying a clone of a clone of a clone, thus i bought a piece of crap. Once you narrow down ur selection, find who clones that individual product the best.

 

[Dr3d]

@407Vapes, why a mech? Asking because knowing your goals will help form a recommendation.

 

[407Vapes]

@407Vapes, why a mech? Asking because knowing your goals will help form a recommendation.

Just the want to try something new for myself. I just want to experience all aspects of vaping.

 

[nightshard]

150$ is a tight budget for an authentic US made mech + RDA, but there are alternatives like:
http://gus-mod.gr/zencart_gus/
http://mini-ecig.com/battery_blocks
And you could always buy one authentic and one clone or both clones.

 

[Slicknic]

http://101vape.com/mechanical-mods/400-brass-nemesis-clone.html
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/305-tobh-atomizer-clone-by-tobeco-.html
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/490-ud-youde-igo-w-plus-rda.html

I recommend going with clones for your first Mech and rda. A year ago Nemesis would have been
the suggestion every time, and imo it's still a good suggestion to start with. Igo w is great to learn
rebuilding on and a solid atty. The tobh is a little more difficult but not really hard at all and is still
my favorite atty to use. Don't break the bank. If you end up liking mech's, you will buy more. Save
some dough for later.

 

[MoFasterMo]

For a authentic mech mod I highly recommend the copper
Tres Evo V2 for $99.99. I love this thing, so much I have the copper and gold plated one.
There is a Grimm Greene review on the page...
http://vapenaked.com/product/tres-evo-tvc/

For rda's there are a lot of good low price authentic choices.

 

[Dr3d]

This is a Stingray Clone in a USA Warehouse for <$35. You have a traditional top cap with center pin, plus it comes with a hybrid top cap for a direct atty to battery connection when you are ready. The mod will work with 18350, 18500 or 18650 batteries and the whole world loves the drip tip design. I'm recommending 'cause it is inexpensive and gives you a chance to try a variety of tube mods in a single package.

http://focalecig.com/Product/-Ship-from-USA-SXK-18650-Stingray-XClone-Mechanical-Mod-14031

http://focalecig.com/Product/-Ship-from-USA-Stingray-X-StyleMechanical-Mod-by-SXKBlack-14209

I'm a tank guy so I'm not the one to lead you through the field of RDAs. Good vaping on your journey.

 

[jackssurvival]

Mutation x v2 deep well easy to build on and chuck clouds like crazy best part 35 bucks for an authentic. And you can get a flagship authentic for around 100 both on amazon or ebay or anything tobeco is pretty good

 

[Eric DeCastro]

Nemesis from FastTech. If you are interested let me know and I'll post links.

 

[floresroach]

I have a King V2 mod I bought at a local shop for 40$ on sale, no complaints so far, I also have a atlantis tank to use while I'm driving (dripping is a horrible idea while driving) and as far as RDA's go I have a mephisto and a doge V1 I absolutely love. You wanna get good batteries. I wouldn't order any SONY batteries because legit ones are really rare to find and I don't trust the Xstar stuff. I'd get some good 18650 2500 Mah 3.7 volt IMR's and I also recommend the nitecore i2 charger. AWT and MXJO have some decent batteries. When using an RDA MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT CHAIN VAPING!!!
You run the risk of venting a battery. I would recommend an IPV box mod with temp control if you want to chain vape your RDA


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Eric DeCastro]

That doesn't make sense I have never vented a battery from chain vaping. That is just wrong advice.

 

[KingFisher]

Ive purchased 8 mods in thr past 6 weeks. Everything from 150W IPV3 and 4 mechanical mods. Mechanicals are all clones. Here is the biggest things i have learned about mechanical mods. Avoid stainless steel. The threads suck. I have been in the food manufacturing field for 30 years and you can ask any plumber or pipe fitter what the biggest nightmare material that is threaded and they will all say the same thing.... stainless. Knowing what i know about threads i bought a stainless Nemesis anyway and thought no problem. I have an advantage... i know how easy the threads bind up so i will be extra careful. ... i liked it but i don't use it because its a pain in the butt with the threads still binding. I also have a 100% copper penny mod, copper sir lansalot mod, and a brass buster mod. Both the copper and brass rock. My fav so far are the copper mods. Connecting pins are solid copper and voltage drop is Almost nothing. I prefer a locking button. Atty's.... same deal. I brought 12+ of them in 6 weeks. 3 drippers and the rest are rba. Wont list them all now but ill name the 3 tops for me. Let me know if you want the entire list...if you are in the states ill be happy to give u a new, only used a couple times rba. Its a high end one but just wasnt what i liked. My most used and favorites are. Are 91% russian, Kayfun lite plus, Kayfun 3.1. For drippers tugboat and TOBH. All of these are very easy builds. Some of my kayfuns are running both single and dual coils from 0.3 to 1.2 ohms. They are great to learn coil builds. The kayfuns are built well to. I have them all. I was surprised at how well the tebeco kayfun was made. Perfect. I also saw crappy tebeco ones at a vape shop but when i found the ine i have i bought it. Threads were smooth and tolorences were tight. You can save buying online but at a store you can touch, check the threads, grt a feel for it. I paid 25 bucks more for the russian at a store than online but i checked it and it was worth it. Let me know and ill donate you a RBA tank to learn with

 

[Northern Michigan Mods]

I personally have used many mods. If you are looking for a standard Mechanical mod I would say go with the Panzer or the Pegasus. I have the Stingray myself and it is a very nice mod but the only downside is the distance you have to turn the lock ring. With the panzer mod you can actually set it on the table and it wont trigger the button. We are also releasing our Wood mech mods within the next month. They will be featuring single and dual 18650 set ups. I will be sure to get some pictures on here as soon as possible.

 

[407Vapes]

So a buddy of mine is selling a 4-9 setup. He hasn't given me a price yet, but what do these normally go for and how good are they?

 

[Dr3d]

So a buddy of mine is selling a 4-9 setup. He hasn't given me a price yet, but what do these normally go for and how good are they?

I own a brass 49 clone. I did NOT point you in that direction because I did NOT want to direct you lock you into a Hybridized top cap setup. No center pin in the 49 so the Atty positive pin makes direct contact with the battery. This isn't a problem if the Atty's you want to use have protruding center pins, but short city if you think of powering up a clearomizer.

Second concern with the 49 setup is the "integral" fire button. This means that the contact magnetically attaches to the battery negative terminal which opposes a disc which is captured by the battery tube. Battery rattle is a way of life and cannot be eliminated without firing the mod.

That said, it was my first mech. I understood enough that I didn't vent any batteries. But I'd be untruthful if I didn't admit to near miss shorts as I tried to work through a few of my go to clearomizers.

 

[407Vapes]

I own a brass 49 clone. I did NOT point you in that direction because I did NOT want to direct you lock you into a Hybridized top cap setup. No center pin in the 49 so the Atty positive pin makes direct contact with the battery. This isn't a problem if the Atty's you want to use have protruding center pins, but short city if you think of powering up a clearomizer.

Second concern with the 49 setup is the "integral" fire button. This means that the contact magnetically attaches to the battery negative terminal which opposes a disc which is captured by the battery tube. Battery rattle is a way of life and cannot be eliminated without firing the mod.

That said, it was my first mech. I understood enough that I didn't vent any batteries. But I'd be untruthful if I didn't admit to near miss shorts as I tried to work through a few of my go to clearomizers.

My buddy is selling it to me for like $30 and I plan on buying a better one around march, but for the price is it a good deal you think?

 

[ej1024]

The last photo is BS
Sent from my
LUMIA 1520

 

[Dr3d]

My buddy is selling it to me for like $30 and I plan on buying a better one around march, but for the price is it a good deal you think?

If it is an authentic, and you want it ... it may be.

Here is a 4nine clone 34% cheaper, stateside even, than the deal your buddy is offering you.

http://101vape.com/mechanical-mods/368-4nine-mechanical-mod-clone.html

I still believe that this mod 1) is for advanced users, and 2) has an out-dated, niche focused apeal. A year ago it was the shortest (49 mm in 18350 configuration) mech on the market so its limitations were more bearable.

 

[Slicknic]

If the 49 is authentic the 30 dollar price tag may be good, if it's a clone, pass.
I also agree that hybrid style mech's are not beginner friendly. They are where you'll
end up though. I have a 49 and I prefer the SMPL to it, but again, I'd never recommend
them to a first time mech user.

 

[RichS]

Why spend a boat load of money on something you may not like?
K100 $10.00
Smok RDA $6.95
Safety Fuse $2.99


K100 can be found here http://www.hoosiervapes.com/Empire-Style-K100-Telescope_p_176.html
Smok RDA can be found here http://shop.desertvapes.com/product.sc?productId=887&categoryId=197
Safety Fuse can be found here http://www.hoosierecig.com/7A-resettable-magnetic-fuse_p_118.html

If you like this and want to step up then go for it, but to spend $$$ just to see if you like it is crazy.

 

[CgS_Drone]

Ask 10 people and get 10 different answers.

I started off with a Nemesis clone and a Trident V2 clone. I still use the Trident and have changed to a all brass Cartel mod with recessed button. Would I recommend the Trident? ya it's been good but there is better out there for the same money.

I have been really impressed with the Quasar clone by Cigreen. The Nemesis got to me after awhile with the locking ring but maybe it was just the clone that I had, seemed like you had to turn forever to lock and unlock it. Everyone is different though I guess that is why they make so many different choices.

I also bought a Homes RDA by Cigreen, if my wife ever lets me use it I will tell you if its any good or not.

 

[Robert B]

I think the Smpl's are great first mods. You only have one thing to deal with or worry about. Making sure the positive pin on the atty protrudes out a bit. Nothing else to worry or think about. Screw on the atty, slide in a battery, screw on the fire button, & vape. No fiddly battery adjustment bs.

 

[CloudPusher]

I own a brass 49 clone. I did NOT point you in that direction because I did NOT want to direct you lock you into a Hybridized top cap setup. No center pin in the 49 so the Atty positive pin makes direct contact with the battery. This isn't a problem if the Atty's you want to use have protruding center pins, but short city if you think of powering up a clearomizer.

Second concern with the 49 setup is the "integral" fire button. This means that the contact magnetically attaches to the battery negative terminal which opposes a disc which is captured by the battery tube. Battery rattle is a way of life and cannot be eliminated without firing the mod.

That said, it was my first mech. I understood enough that I didn't vent any batteries. But I'd be untruthful if I didn't admit to near miss shorts as I tried to work through a few of my go to clearomizers.

I have two 4nines and the first one i got i vented because my drunk ass plugged a kanger into it one night(wanted to try the new .8ohm coil out). I had to order new magnets and went ahead and also ordered a new one in SS as well. I actually liked the SS version better for a while. Now i'm back to the brass one. Never had any threading issues with the SS though.

 

[407Vapes]

Ive purchased 8 mods in thr past 6 weeks. Everything from 150W IPV3 and 4 mechanical mods. Mechanicals are all clones. Here is the biggest things i have learned about mechanical mods. Avoid stainless steel. The threads suck. I have been in the food manufacturing field for 30 years and you can ask any plumber or pipe fitter what the biggest nightmare material that is threaded and they will all say the same thing.... stainless. Knowing what i know about threads i bought a stainless Nemesis anyway and thought no problem. I have an advantage... i know how easy the threads bind up so i will be extra careful. ... i liked it but i don't use it because its a pain in the butt with the threads still binding. I also have a 100% copper penny mod, copper sir lansalot mod, and a brass buster mod. Both the copper and brass rock. My fav so far are the copper mods. Connecting pins are solid copper and voltage drop is Almost nothing. I prefer a locking button. Atty's.... same deal. I brought 12+ of them in 6 weeks. 3 drippers and the rest are rba. Wont list them all now but ill name the 3 tops for me. Let me know if you want the entire list...if you are in the states ill be happy to give u a new, only used a couple times rba. Its a high end one but just wasnt what i liked. My most used and favorites are. Are 91% russian, Kayfun lite plus, Kayfun 3.1. For drippers tugboat and TOBH. All of these are very easy builds. Some of my kayfuns are running both single and dual coils from 0.3 to 1.2 ohms. They are great to learn coil builds. The kayfuns are built well to. I have them all. I was surprised at how well the tebeco kayfun was made. Perfect. I also saw crappy tebeco ones at a vape shop but when i found the ine i have i bought it. Threads were smooth and tolorences were tight. You can save buying online but at a store you can touch, check the threads, grt a feel for it. I paid 25 bucks more for the russian at a store than online but i checked it and it was worth it. Let me know and ill donate you a RBA tank to learn with

Well first off I want to just thank everyone who posted. The amount of knowledge I've received from you guys has been overwhelmingly helpful and I am forever grateful for all the help. Secondly I've just decided I'm going to pick up the 49 and give it the good old college try, but will certainly take up the information about other mods for future purchases. Thirdly, Kingfisher, if you are really serious about donating an rba I would have to take you up on that offer. I'm not much the type to turn down free stuff. Lol. Just pm me if that offer is still on the table and we can talk logistics.

Again, thank you all very much for all the help. It's truly been amazing.

 

[floresroach]

That doesn't make sense I have never vented a battery from chain vaping. That is just wrong advice.

I already vented two. When you chain vape on an RDA with a mech mod the battery heats up, in some cases (not all) depending on your battery you can expand the metal on the battery causing it to vent. Chain vaping makes the RDA hot, which will conduct the heat to the RDA, which will make the battery chamber hot, that's just my experience, I could be doing something else wrong. I asked some pros at a few different B&M shops and I got the same answer from all of them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Caloy]

If I'm going to buy a new Mechanical, I'm going with this $52, And buy batteries, chargers, drip-tips and juice with the remaining $99:
Mod: http://www.angelcigs.com/slug-style-18650-mechanical-box-mod-copper-by-shenxi.html
Atty: http://www.angelcigs.com/vertex-v2-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer-copper-1-1.html

Hopefully the copper on the atty atty, would match the copper of the mod. If not I'll use th stainless steel cover on the atty instead.

 

[Slicknic]

With a mechanical mod you should always know what your ohm rating is and what amp draw it needs.
This is why every rebuilder should have an ohm meter and know ohms law or use an ohm calculator.
Use batteries which can handle the amp load of your build. It's important to know the actual max continuous
discharge current of your batteries, which is sometimes lower than their listed specs.

Every time I change cotton and dry burn the coils I check to make sure the wire leads are snug in the
posts and tucked tight to them before I re-wick. I chain vape often and the mod can get warm. It should
not get hot. If your mod is hot, do not vape it, take the battery out and let the mod and battery cool off.

Using the above safety measures, I have never vented a battery.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

I already vented two. When you chain vape on an RDA with a mech mod the battery heats up, in some cases (not all) depending on your battery you can expand the metal on the battery causing it to vent. Chain vaping makes the RDA hot, which will conduct the heat to the RDA, which will make the battery chamber hot, that's just my experience, I could be doing something else wrong. I asked some pros at a few different B&M shops and I got the same answer from all of them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you are doing something wrong. maybe your build resistance is too low for your battery. I do nothing but chain vape and yes the mod gets hot but I leave at least 2 amps head room meaning on my 18350 builds if my amp rating is 7 amps I don't go above 5 amps at full power to give even more head room. you ARE doing something wrong. a battery will not vent if you chain vape if you are within your battery's limits.

 

[2c5000]

I think the Smpl's are great first mods. You only have one thing to deal with or worry about. Making sure the positive pin on the atty protrudes out a bit. Nothing else to worry or think about. Screw on the atty, slide in a battery, screw on the fire button, & vape. No fiddly battery adjustment bs.

does the SMPL have a lock of any kind? i love its simplicity, but need that lock.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

does the SMPL have a lock of any kind? i love its simplicity, but need that lock.

no lock

 

[Robert B]

does the SMPL have a lock of any kind? i love its simplicity, but need that lock.

Like Eric says, no lock. But when using a flat top battery, the button is inset and the spring is strong.

 

[2c5000]

no lock

Like Eric says, no lock. But when using a flat top battery, the button is inset and the spring is strong.

View attachment 12341

thanks! i run .6-.8ohm coils and really want the lock.

sucks cuz that SMPL is almost everything i am looking for.

 

[Robert B]

thanks! i run .6-.8ohm coils and really want the lock.

sucks cuz that SMPL is almost everything i am looking for.

You could try the praxis mod. Almost the same size as the smpl. Has a slider that locks the button, and the brass cap. You slide it and push the fire button at the same time. The authentics ($130) are sold out everywhere, but FT has a nice 1:1 clone here.

 

[Caloy]

I got the SMPL and it doesn't need a lock. I can put it on my pocket and it won't fire. The fire button is recessed so the tube itself will prevent it from firing. Also the button itself is a bit stiff adding to it's safety. I run a 0.24 ohm build and I carry it with confidence.

 

[2c5000]

I got the SMPL and it doesn't need a lock. I can put it on my pocket and it won't fire. The fire button is recessed so the tube itself will prevent it from firing. Also the button itself is a bit stiff adding to it's safety. I run a 0.24 ohm build and I carry it with confidence.

just because its recessed doesnt mean a key or something in your pocket couldnt get pushed up in there and fire it. i know its not likely, but i want to be certain.

 

[Caloy]

Oh yeah, one drawback of the SMPL is that you need your atty's 510 pin sticking out. On atty with spring loaded 510 pins like the Nautilus and Atlantis, it will short out.

 

[KingFisher]

Well first off I want to just thank everyone who posted. The amount of knowledge I've received from you guys has been overwhelmingly helpful and I am forever grateful for all the help. Secondly I've just decided I'm going to pick up the 49 and give it the good old college try, but will certainly take up the information about other mods for future purchases. Thirdly, Kingfisher, if you are really serious about donating an rba I would have to take you up on that offer. I'm not much the type to turn down free stuff. Lol. Just pm me if that offer is still on the table and we can talk logistics.

Again, thank you all very much for all the help. It's truly been amazing.

Offer is there.... Pm me your address and I will do my best to get it in the mail tomorrow. Busy day for me tomorrow but I will do my best. Worse case it will be sent this weekend but I'm pretty sure I can step away from work. You prefer atty tank or a dripper?