I am new to building but since my first coil I had a nak for it. My first build was a .29/.3 ohm dual coil build. Well I heard that the lower the more vapor production, so I tried making a simple .2 coil build but it came out to be .24 which I was happy with. Well I used to run a .3 as mentioned before and I would run it on 60.0w and it was nice flavor and decent clouds. Well now I have my .24 build and if I run it on anything higher than 52.0w it tends to give dry/burnt hits. It seems to get to hot on 52.0w with long hits so I normally run on 50.0w. I wicked it like normal and didn't do anything wrong. They heat up evenly and everything works fine except for the fact that when run higher it tends to give burnt or dry hits. I was wondering if anyone else had this issue? Is there any way to fix this? If requested i'll get pictures. Also I run it on a sigelie 150w.
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Goblin Mini RTA .24 coil build wont work past 52.00 watts, why?
- Thread starter Noobster
- Start date
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- Tags
- burnt hit error goblin mini
It has to do with your wicking, it can be picky and finicky but once you get it right then taking it up wont be a problem...Your demanding alot for a small rta deck also, I use 26g/ dual 6 wraps and can push it up to 60w if the wicking is done right. Try GrimmGreens method for wicking in the GM, its the same one I use.
It also depends on your e-liquid, not every juice likes it hot, and vice versa.
I follow GrimmGreens method to the T. It works great but for some reason this time it didn't do right. I have re-wicked this thing 5 times. First two times I didn't use a thick enough piece and it leaked. The next 3 were when my friend built the first coil. I then wanted to do my own so I made mine and re-wicked it. Both times it worked great. Now I do this and it's not working.... Hmmm. I'll try rewicking it but if that doesn't work i'll build a smaller coil. :3 Joking, but I do want a .1..... Also small RTA deck? Is .2 pushing what it can do? I still don't know too much about the limitations on these things. I was taught the basic safety precautions by the friend who built the first build but I didn't know they had limits....
I was using Mother Madison by Madison Vape co. and I also tried New Money by Sterling.
Try the Pancake Wicking Method but then lightly push the tips towards the Juice Channels, ever so lightly.
Also when you thread your cotton afterwards use your tweezers or scissors fluff the cotton ends as much as you can and then place the chimney on.
I typically don't push my Gobler mini builds to high wattage because I find the RTA just can't keep up. Juice ports are a bit small and my builds are small (so they have small wicks,1.5mm ID) to fit the deck. I'm almost always running them around 28watts to 30 watts with builds around .25 ohms. But the flavor and vapor are spot on so who cares? Just built a Bellus and THAT little RTA is handling 50 watts and keeping up just fine.
A resistance reading doesn't paint much of a picture. Coil geometry does. What are your build specs? Coil count, wire type and gauge, diameter and wrap count. That info and a pic would help us help you best.
Because of your mods capabilities you can pay more attention to the size, shape and mass of your coils than worrying too much about the resistance. Simply saying lower ohms equals more vapor is not correct. It's not about some number that alone is meaningless. You can achieve "X" ohms a million different ways. The physical dimensions of your coil(s), the amount of power you're applying, the size and shape of the chamber and amount of airflow determine performance. The resistance of the build is combined with a certain amount of voltage to make a certain amount of power so the resistance measurement needs to be considered and kept within your mods limits, but the ohms alone don't magically determine how your gear functions.
Because of your mods capabilities you can pay more attention to the size, shape and mass of your coils than worrying too much about the resistance. Simply saying lower ohms equals more vapor is not correct. It's not about some number that alone is meaningless. You can achieve "X" ohms a million different ways. The physical dimensions of your coil(s), the amount of power you're applying, the size and shape of the chamber and amount of airflow determine performance. The resistance of the build is combined with a certain amount of voltage to make a certain amount of power so the resistance measurement needs to be considered and kept within your mods limits, but the ohms alone don't magically determine how your gear functions.
Oh, okay. Thank you for the info. I will be taking photos when I do rebuild it. I looked at my coils and I think one has a over lapping loop. I don't know when it happened since when I made them I was really careful and rechecked after wicking...
I just bought a Youde UD Bellus RTA and Ijoy ASOLO 200W Temperature Control Box Mod. I think I am gonna try and do a nice build with it.
Try the Bellus with some Clapton coils if you make them. I set mine up with 2mm NiChrome 26/36 dual Claptons 5 1/2 wraps. I've been running it about 45-47 watts.