Good brand of spray paint for metal box?

[Iamme]

I am going to be painting a metal mech box. Seeing as I do not have a spray fun or the skills to use it, I'm going to have to use a spray can. I want a bright toxic green color. I found it in rusto brand, but wanted to know if anyone had ideas. For durability the better question may be what would be a good clear coat to finish it. Just looking for suggestions. I am going to lay a white base coat, then paint it green. Then I am going to mist it with some bright red to look like blood splatter and clear coat it. I found some nice biohazard decals I am going to pit in the center of the front and back lid when the painting is said and done. Any tips let me know.


Thanks in advance.

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

I always like the engine heat paint in cool colors for things I want to rattle can.

 

[Xhalin]

I always like the engine heat paint in cool colors for things I want to rattle can.

Roger that- BBQ paint lasts forever as well..

 

[Iamme]

So something along these lines?

http://www.caswellplating.com/paint...-enamel-with-ceramic-grabber-green-lime.html#

Would I still need to hit that with a base coat to prime it and then a clear coat to keep it from chipping as easy?

Sorry, My only work with paint was spraying model cars when I was a teen and I don't think testers is going to do this job lol.

 

[Mike H.]

Id venture to say most all rattle can paints are considered base coat/ clear coat ,meaning its already pre mixed, hence the glossy finish.

In my opinion, unless you have a spray gun, thats gonna be your only option for a finish.

I spray a very light coat called a "tack coat"...This will give a better adhesion to the rest of the coats and allow it stick better...Do it in light thin coats and be patient to allow it to somewhat dry but not completely dry..give about 10 minutes between coats untill you have your desired finish...Once you have a a good 3 or 4 coats...let it dry fully...i mean for days...even put it in the sun if you can to bake it.

Once dry, take some 1200 wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand it to take down any uneven surface or orange peel using a flat wooden paint stick...stay away from the edges though...then you will need to buff and polish it to a luster finish on a medium speed...dont burn it.


Or just simply spray it and be done..lol

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

So something along these lines?

http://www.caswellplating.com/paint...-enamel-with-ceramic-grabber-green-lime.html#

Would I still need to hit that with a base coat to prime it and then a clear coat to keep it from chipping as easy?

Sorry, My only work with paint was spraying model cars when I was a teen and I don't think testers is going to do this job lol.

Yep!

Roger that- BBQ paint lasts forever as well..

Yep if flat black is what he's after. Think he's more leaning toward green though.

Id venture to say most all rattle can paints are considered base coat/ clear coat ,meaning its already pre mixed, hence the glossy finish.

In my opinion, unless you have a spray gun, thats gonna be your only option for a finish.

I spray a very light coat called a "tack coat"...This will give a better adhesion to the rest of the coats and allow it stick better...Do it in light thin coats and be patient to allow it to somewhat dry but not completely dry..give about 10 minutes between coats untill you have your desired finish...Once you have a a good 3 or 4 coats...let it dry fully...i mean for days...even put it in the sun if you can to bake it.

Once dry, take some 1200 wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand it to take down any uneven surface or orange peel using a flat wooden paint stick...stay away from the edges though...then you will need to buff and polish it to a luster finish on a medium speed...dont burn it.


Or just simply spray it and be done..lol

Great advice!

 

[Iamme]

Cool. Thanks everyone.