Help on building my first Mech Mod

[Lumination]

Hello everyone, pre-thanks for hopefully some help. I recently purchased 26g kanthal wire, and cotton bacon for my subtank mini RDA. Now I want to know what Mech mod is good for beginners, and will I need new wire? Or will I be able to use 26g kanthal safely? I prefer safety over extreme clouds etc. Also I was browsing mech mods, and I started feeling extremely out of depth when I started seeing couls with 3 pillars where the wire goes. I thought there was only 2. Anyways can anyone help me on how to build a safe .3-.5 mech mod? Like batteries etc,

 

[BKTOAD]

Have you built coils at all?

If not, i would get proficient at building on a regulated mod.

Also, would get an RDA to learn to build on, rather than the subtank rda.

Plenty of build videos on youtube.

 

[IMFire3605]

Hello everyone, pre-thanks for hopefully some help. I recently purchased 26g kanthal wire, and cotton bacon for my subtank mini RDA. Now I want to know what Mech mod is good for beginners, and will I need new wire? Or will I be able to use 26g kanthal safely? I prefer safety over extreme clouds etc. Also I was browsing mech mods, and I started feeling extremely out of depth when I started seeing couls with 3 pillars where the wire goes. I thought there was only 2. Anyways can anyone help me on how to build a safe .3-.5 mech mod? Like batteries etc,

26awg is a fine wire for the subtank, as stated above get a cheap clone RDA to practice with, maybe look at a coilmaster builders kit with all the tools you'll need including an ohm reader.

1) I always suggest, running a mech, you need 30amp CDR batteries, and don't build any lower than about 0.25ohms to give some safety room.
LG HB2, 4, or 6
2) being you are thinking of using a tank that has no bottom adjustable pin, do not purchase a mech with no adjustable top positive pin, this is for safety, if the positive pin and negative threads of the tank base at the same time touch the top positive of the battery, boom, game over, so do "NOT" get a mech like the SMPL or Able, the insulator of the subtank is rubber/silicon and recedes over time leading to the bottom pin receding as well.
3) practice, practice, practice. Build on your test RDA, read its ohm's, rebuild again to get comfortable wrapping, troubleshooting shorts and faults.
4) Get used to using this formula
4.2v/your ohm's=what you max amps will be
Do not put an atomizer on your mech if it is over 15 to 20amps
(Google play and the apple App Store have Ohm's law calculator apps, downloading one to your phone/tablet is advised, 4.2v and your ohm's in the respective boxes hit calculate it will figure the rest out for you)

In all honesty I would not suggest running the subtank on a mech period, see #2 above why I say this given the pin connection issue, maybe a Limitless RDTA or other such rebuild able tank in all honesty, that subtank was mainly designed for regulated mod's.

Stay safe


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

 

[Lumination]

Thanks for the reply, and help. Appreciate it very much, and is extremely helpful.

 

[BreSha6869]

I use Subtank Minis on mechs all the time. You just have to be very careful as some STM bases have positive pins that are exposed a millimetre or two (good) and some are flush (kaboom!). I obviously only use the former.

I wouldn't recommend anything but a RTA/RDA on a straight to battery mod (hybrid as many wrongly call them) though.