Hi All, Need help with temp control on X cube 2

[SirRichardRear]

Hi All,

I'm a pretty experienced builder, been doing it for a few years, but temp control is new to me. I decided to get a temp control mod. I was using a sigelei 150watt before this and after some research decided on an xcube 2. I upgraded the firmware to the latest version no problem but I can't seem to get temp control to work.

I'm using my velocity RDA because I read that grub screws make a better connection, I started with Ni200 wire (26 guage) and was able to make a single spaced 10 wrap 3mm coil .06 resistance but it wouldn't produce any vapor even at 600. I did set it for NI wire in the settings as well. After some research i basically read ni200 wire kinda sucks. I decided to try stainless. I read it's more like kenthal can be used in VW mode and dry burned.

So I made a dual coil, 10 wrap 2MM build with the SS316L (28 gauge) wire and get .36ohm. I set the mod to temp control mode (i tested and the coils heat up perfect in VW mode. about 30 watts gets it to glow dark red from the center. no hot spots. Set it for SS and started at 400 F (i read between 400-480F is where most people use TC mode) and worked my way up to 600F but still got no vapor. I tried finding more details on the TCR for SS316L to program into the mod but got no luck finding it. The default from SMOK clearly can't be right. I had the same issue with my NI build. I seen videos too of people new to it trying to make it work with little luck, either getting no vapor or starting a fire.

I did manage to get a work around, I set it for TI wire instead of SS (even though I'm using SS) and at 280F it seems to work well, but I know this technically isn't correct. My coils still work perfect in VW mode though, but in TC i can't get it to work. Does this mod just suck for TC? Most of the sites i checked had it listed as a good mod for TC but info is hard to find on it (seems the DNA chip? is more popular) Any advice from someone more experienced on this would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Foggz]

.00092 is what i use for SS316l TCR - when you say your @ .36ohm is that read off the cube or when you are building using a dif meter?

not real familiar with the cube .. does it have an option to lock in the resistance?

also .. is there a preheat setting?

 

[SirRichardRear]

.00092 is what i use for SS316l TCR - when you say your @ .36ohm is that read off the cube or when you are building using a dif meter?

not real familiar with the cube .. does it have an option to lock in the resistance?

also .. is there a preheat setting?

That's the read off the mod itself, I can get a different read later when I get home off my coil master meter and compare them. It's arriving today. I believe it automatically locks the resistance when you put it in and select it's a new coil that's why it has to be put on the mod when it's at normal temp and not after it's been fired. According to steam engine the .36 is pretty accurate based on my build.

Not sure what you mean by pre-heat but it does give you the option to fire -20%, -10%, 0%, 10 %, and 20% for the 1st 2 seconds higher/lower. I have it set at 0%.

EDIT: Just tried your .00092 and even at 600F i get nothing. the setting for TI i'm using is 00350. I suspect somewhere between your 00092 and the TI 00350 would be the correct TCR. The default from Smok for SS is 00060

 

[Foggz]

OK - yeah just got done with a quick look at the manual for that... I would check to see what firmware is running on it as there is a firmware upgrade available. The option to FIre etc.. sounds like a preheat mode to me.. that can make a difference so run through those after you set the tcr - also that unit has a 'draw effect' option.. ie soft medium hard .. also a setting i would run through the options of... just double check that the 510 is clean.. is the battery fully charged? (doh!) gotta ask ;p

 

[Foggz]

00060 is probably for SS 304 I would think .. some users i saw are running it as high as 108 .. so I would bump it up a couple of points at a time to see if that helps .. ?

 

[SirRichardRear]

OK - yeah just got done with a quick look at the manual for that... I would check to see what firmware is running on it as there is a firmware upgrade available. The option to FIre etc.. sounds like a preheat mode to me.. that can make a difference so run through those after you set the tcr - also that unit has a 'draw effect' option.. ie soft medium hard .. also a setting i would run through the options of... just double check that the 510 is clean.. is the battery fully charged? (doh!) gotta ask ;p

Firmware up to date 1.098 Updated it last week when i got the mod. The mode i was talking about is the draw effect mode. I leave it on normal which is 0%. I've tried all the modes and they seem to work right. min gives a nice soft draw while max gives a large pulse of vapor to start then evens out. 510 is clean, I clean it daily with qtips. Batteries fully charged. I have 2 sets of batteries. 1 set of samsung Q30 and 1 set of LG HG2. batteries are less then 2 weeks old.

I think my issue is either the mod itself or the TCR setting. I'll try and play around with it, but your 00090 seems correct based on what I've read.

 

[SirRichardRear]

00060 is probably for SS 304 I would think .. some users i saw are running it as high as 108 .. so I would bump it up a couple of points at a time to see if that helps .. ?

00108 gave me nothing still even at 600f. i kept bumping it up and at around 0200 it seems to work good at the 400-430F range. Seemed to work a bit better at the "rigged" settings of TI 00350 and 300F. My best guess is either the wire is bad (doubtful) the Mod is inaccurate (most likely) or the TCR is wrong (doubtful) but i think i can make it work if i play around and find the right TCR for it. that seems to be the key to making it work to adjust for the mods inaccuracy. Sadly I didn't see any complaints on it prior to getting it.

 

[Foggz]

00108 gave me nothing still even at 600f. i kept bumping it up and at around 0200 it seems to work good at the 400-430F range. Seemed to work a bit better at the "rigged" settings of TI 00350 and 300F. My best guess is either the wire is bad (doubtful) the Mod is inaccurate (most likely) or the TCR is wrong (doubtful) but i think i can make it work if i play around and find the right TCR for it. that seems to be the key to making it work to adjust for the mods inaccuracy. Sadly I didn't see any complaints on it prior to getting it.

well it actually may be an issue with the mod so i would contact them for a replacement if you can't get it working correctly. There are several threads on the cubis and issues such as tcr settings etc... I would def check the firmware version first thing tho and update if it's not the latest one. I'm sure a little reading and checking will give an answer one way or another..

 

[SirRichardRear]

well it actually may be an issue with the mod so i would contact them for a replacement if you can't get it working correctly. There are several threads on the cubis and issues such as tcr settings etc... I would def check the firmware version first thing tho and update if it's not the latest one. I'm sure a little reading and checking will give an answer one way or another..

I've checked around and really couldn't find much info on it. especially using SS but even ni200 didn't work for me. I'll contact the store for a replacement and see if that fixes it maybe

 

[Foggz]

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/smok-x-cube-ii-smoks-temp-control-take-2.95847/page-11

seems that ss is an issue with older firmware @ least from quick reads I did.. lots of info in this thread ^

edit it does look to be a cool mod tho.. hope you can get it working correctly ..

 

[SirRichardRear]

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/smok-x-cube-ii-smoks-temp-control-take-2.95847/page-11

seems that ss is an issue with older firmware @ least from quick reads I did.. lots of info in this thread ^

edit it does look to be a cool mod tho.. hope you can get it working correctly ..

I'll read through that. Thanks. A lot of it is old info though

 

[Foggz]

cool .. let me know how you make out - lots of msg's from this month as well tho so should be some up to date info

 

[SirRichardRear]

cool .. let me know how you make out - lots of msg's from this month as well tho so should be some up to date info

Thanks. I found this vid

he used TI mode at 00200 for SS at 400 but that was old firmware before the SS upgrade
then he made this one for SS https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...&feature=iv&src_vid=JdSFF80M-F8&v=24byyoRNknI
here he says 105 for SS but 092 seems to be the "correct" sounds like it's a firmware issue. hopefully it gets fixed up but i think i can rig it to make it work. Thanks for the help!

 

[SirRichardRear]

Seems to work best at SS 00200 and 400F

 

[Foggz]

cool.. im pretty sure it IS a fw issue.. once you upgrade you should be good to go as well with the 'correct' settings - yes your welcome no problem!

 

[Powerman]

Are you spacing your coils? I know you spaced nickle, but you have to space SS too.

There is no other TCR, you already have it. 91 316/317. 304 is around 104. The most I've juked TCR is 30 on SS. For some reason one tank needs it.

Juking the TCR up, you are telling the mod keep giving power until you see a bigger resistance change. It's a way to make up for a weak Vape. But there are a few reasons for weak TC Vape.

All your connections have to be solid. Your ohms can't vary at all. SS has such a narrow range it matters. My tanks may vary 2-3 thousandths at most on the evolve analyzer.

And what usually gets overlooked is wicking. In power, you will get dry hit. But in TC you just get a weak Vape. It wont burn, but due to some physics, it will only vaporize what it's supplied.

But a weak Vape it not no Vape. And if you switch to power and it isn't dry then that's not exactly it. You don't have to juke your TCR way up. Your TCR is 91. If you are over 120-130 you are way out of bounds. 430 has one of the highest for SS and it's 140. See that your ohms are stable. The whole tank not just the deck.

 

[SirRichardRear]

Are you spacing your coils? I know you spaced nickle, but you have to space SS too.

There is no other TCR, you already have it. 91 316/317. 304 is around 104. The most I've juked TCR is 30 on SS. For some reason one tank needs it.

Juking the TCR up, you are telling the mod keep giving power until you see a bigger resistance change. It's a way to make up for a weak Vape. But there are a few reasons for weak TC Vape.

All your connections have to be solid. Your ohms can't vary at all. SS has such a narrow range it matters. My tanks may vary 2-3 thousandths at most on the evolve analyzer.

And what usually gets overlooked is wicking. In power, you will get dry hit. But in TC you just get a weak Vape. It wont burn, but due to some physics, it will only vaporize what it's supplied.

But a weak Vape it not no Vape. And if you switch to power and it isn't dry then that's not exactly it. You don't have to juke your TCR way up. Your TCR is 91. If you are over 120-130 you are way out of bounds. 430 has one of the highest for SS and it's 140. See that your ohms are stable. The whole tank not just the deck.

Thanks for the info. I made this video to send to the site i purchased my mod from to show them the issues i'm having. If you could, please let me know if you see me doing anything wrong. Thanks!

 

[Foggz]

it won't burn if it's dry.. that's the TC doing it's job .. "temp protected"
ohm's on the TAB will be slightly dif than on the mod .. that is normal cuz the mod is reading the whole circuit .. including itself I would NOT overide what the mod is reading as it's resistance.

A build working in wattage mode is not necessarily proof that it is correct for TC tho.. wattage mode won't take into account fluctuations of resistance.. as powerman mentioned

Your ohms can't vary at all. SS has such a narrow range it matters. My tanks may vary 2-3 thousandths at most on the evolve analyzer.

which could still be involved in this case.. I had the same issue with one tank until i took it apart down to the pin and cleaned it.. then it worked well . (not saying that is the issue just something to consider)

two things I would do here before trying to get another one... check using a different tank/rda and....

Would absolutely .. reload the firmware... could just have been an issue there.

if those two things don't fix the issue then i would try to get it replaced .. good luck bro

 

[SirRichardRear]

it won't burn if it's dry.. that's the TC doing it's job .. "temp protected"
ohm's on the TAB will be slightly dif than on the mod .. that is normal cuz the mod is reading the whole circuit .. including itself I would NOT overide what the mod is reading as it's resistance.


A build working in wattage mode is not necessarily proof that it is correct for TC tho.. wattage mode won't take into account fluctuations of resistance.. as powerman mentioned

which could still be involved in this case.. I had the same issue with one tank until i took it apart down to the pin and cleaned it.. then it worked well . (not saying that is the issue just something to consider)

two things I would do here before trying to get another one... check using a different tank/rda and....

Would absolutely .. reload the firmware... could just have been an issue there.

if those two things don't fix the issue then i would try to get it replaced .. good luck bro

I've tried on my velocity and he'll boy with both single and double coils and I tried ni200 and ss316l. I've tried not changing the resistance as well and still no luck.

I didn't try redoing the firmware. I'll give that a try and let you know how it goes. I didn't really think of that. Thanks for the advice.

 

[TechnoGeek]

I've tried on my velocity and he'll boy with both single and double coils and I tried ni200 and ss316l. I've tried not changing the resistance as well and still no luck.

I didn't try redoing the firmware. I'll give that a try and let you know how it goes. I didn't really think of that. Thanks for the advice.

I have two Xcube II's, both are running 1.098 updated from 1.097, both work great.

For SS316L I use TCR between .00088 and .00105 and it works the same as my DNA mods, as far as vape temperature, etc...

My GUESS is there is something wrong with the MOD, based on your info and video.....or, maybe you missed a step in flashing? The NUMicro ISP is a bit tedious/pain......

When you flashed to 1.098 did you follow the directions EXACTLY?

1. Did you remove the batteries
2. Were you holding the firebar the entire time during the process?
3 Did you do the erase option FIRST, prior to flashing?
4. Did make sure the config 1x setting was 00013000

5. When you flashed did you tick BOTH the APROM and Config options?



I ask, as I have read a few people not following the directions EXACTLY and having various problem....the issue were fixed by reflashing...

I'd try to reflash first, if that still doesn't work, time for a return/exchange.....

BTW, re-download the tool/firmware. I've also read somewhere that Smok released several versions of 1.098 for the Xcube II. I don't know if it's true, but better safe than sorry...

When I download AND extract here is the file name I see....

XCUBE II-VIVI-52 (160616)V.1.098(checksum=0x28F9).hex

 

[SirRichardRear]

I have two Xcube II's, both are running 1.098 updated from 1.097, both work great.

For SS316L I use TCR between .00088 and .00105 and it works the same as my DNA mods, as far as vape temperature, etc...

My GUESS is there is something wrong with the MOD, based on your info and video.....or, maybe you missed a step in flashing? The NUMicro ISP is a bit tedious/pain......

When you flashed to 1.098 did you follow the directions EXACTLY?

1. Did you remove the batteries
2. Were you holding the firebar the entire time during the process?
3 Did you do the erase option FIRST, prior to flashing?
4. Did make sure the config 1x setting was 00013000
View attachment 56235
5. When you flashed did you tick BOTH the APROM and Config options?

View attachment 56236

I ask, as I have read a few people not following the directions EXACTLY and having various problem....the issue were fixed by reflashing...

I'd try to reflash first, if that still doesn't work, time for a return/exchange.....

BTW, re-download the tool/firmware. I've also read somewhere that Smok released several versions of 1.098 for the Xcube II. I don't know if it's true, but better safe than sorry...

When I download AND extract here is the file name I see....

XCUBE II-VIVI-52 (160616)V.1.098(checksum=0x28F9).hex

Thanks for the info! awesome write up. yes I did it exactly as shown and got the PASS at the end. I flashed it and redid the update again and will test later and let you know if it worked. If it doesn't work after that, my next step i guess is an exchange

Also the filename you listed is the same one i used. Hopefully when i test it later it's all good

 

[SirRichardRear]

So i reloaded the upgrade again as a couple people here suggested and boom, works perfect now. with the TCR at 00092 for the same setup as the video and at 400 i'm getting amazing flavor that stays cool and doesn't get hot. It was the firmware. Thanks guys for all the help!

 

[TechnoGeek]

So i reloaded the upgrade again as a couple people here suggested and boom, works perfect now. with the TCR at 00092 for the same setup as the video and at 400 i'm getting amazing flavor that stays cool and doesn't get hot. It was the firmware. Thanks guys for all the help!

I'm glad that worked for you.

I have even used the NUMicro ISP tool to un-brick someone else's Xcube after the old normal update failed. I keep all the old hex files, and update tools, just in case.... My understanding, it should be impossible to brick the Xcube, as you can always re-flash using the ISP tool with the .hex files.....

In the past, a few of the Smok Xcube updates broke TC mode, and their older standard tool(more consumer friendly) doesn't allow downgrading AND they only allow you to download and install the most current version,, unless you hack the method a bit.

So if Smok still used the older tool, and they released a bad update, without hacking the method of the tool, you had to use the ISP tool to downgrade to get TC working again.....My suggestion, ALWAYS keep a backup of the working versions, so you can downgrade if need be.....

BTW, the simple hack for the older tool which downloads from the internet is to start the process, allow it to download the current file(give it time to make sure it's completed the download)...Then change the name of the new file to something else .latest, or something. Then make a copy of the older file you want to load, name it the same as the newest file, and then finish the update process. Yes, simple/stupid, but it's worked for me.....Also, I think the reason SOME people have bricked in the past, is even the consumer friendly tool sucks, and will hang, sometime NOT download the complete file, BUT will still allow you to flash with an incomplete file, with no warnings, or errors........which then bricks it for the standard tool....

 

[SirRichardRear]

I'm glad that worked for you.

I have even used the NUMicro ISP tool to un-brick someone else's Xcube after the old normal update failed. I keep all the old hex files, and update tools, just in case.... My understanding, it should be impossible to brick the Xcube, as you can always re-flash using the ISP tool with the .hex files.....

In the past, a few of the Smok Xcube updates broke TC mode, and their older standard tool(more consumer friendly) doesn't allow downgrading AND they only allow you to download and install the most current version,, unless you hack the method a bit.

So if Smok still used the older tool, and they released a bad update, without hacking the method of the tool, you had to use the ISP tool to downgrade to get TC working again.....My suggestion, ALWAYS keep a backup of the working versions, so you can downgrade if need be.....

BTW, the simple hack for the older tool which downloads from the internet is to start the process, allow it to download the current file(give it time to make sure it's completed the download)...Then change the name of the new file to something else .latest, or something. Then make a copy of the older file you want to load, name it the same as the newest file, and then finish the update process. Yes, simple/stupid, but it's worked for me.....Also, I think the reason SOME people have bricked in the past, is even the consumer friendly tool sucks, and will hang, sometime NOT download the complete file, BUT will still allow you to flash with an incomplete file, with no warnings, or errors........which then bricks it for the standard tool....

Thats awesome. I'm definitely saving the file. The whole process seems very archaic but i mean you can't expect perfect software from a Chinese manufactured vaping device. They aren't microsoft. I'm just happy it worked and year I agree it shouldn't be brickable since you can wipe out the device at any time and do a clean install, I just wish it had a check if something loaded bad and it clearly doesn't.

 

[Foggz]

@SirRichardRear - Glad to hear that that all worked out for you !! Thought it might be the FW after you had tried everything else.. so good that you don't have to go thru the hassle of getting a replacement .. @TechnoGeek - Awesome info ! amazing help there!
take care guys !

 

[SirRichardRear]

@SirRichardRear - Glad to hear that that all worked out for you !! Thought it might be the FW after you had tried everything else.. so good that you don't have to go thru the hassle of getting a replacement .. @TechnoGeek - Awesome info ! amazing help there!
take care guys !

Yeah the people on this site are awesome so far.