How long do 18650 batteries last, on average?

[supermarket]

How many charge cycles do 18650 batteries have , on average, before performance starts decreasing?

I figured since most of you guys on this board probably vape as much as I do, at the very least, and probably a lot more, you'd have the experience necessary to answer these questions.

Have you guys had any 18650 batteries fail or decrease in performance yet due to regular usage? How often do you replace your batteries? How many months/years did they last you?


I'm asking because I've been using two sets of 18650s on rotation for about a year now, and instead of lasting 3-4 days like they used to, I'm now only getting ONE day out of them, before I need to switch.

This might not even be the batteries - because the charger I'm using (which is an Ultrafire 2 bay charger), seems to be having issues. For some reason, when I'm charging two 18650s now, ONE battery seems to finish first, while the other one takes FOREVER. Would this be a problem with the charger, or the batteries? I'm thinking the charger, because it does this to BOTH sets of batteries.



Anyway, long story short.....I either have to replace my charger, or my batteries, and I'm not sure which. It is probably a good idea to replace both, but considering I'm out of work now on short term disability, money is tight right now.

Thanks guys

 

[supermarket]

Oh, one more thing! Anyone want to recommend me some really good 18650s for my Sigelei 100w? Ive been using some VTC5s and purple EFests.....but I keep hearing good things on this board about the Samsung 25R? or the LG HE2? HE4?

 

[Lefty]

Depends entirely on how you use them. Top line cells are usually rated at 300-500 full cycles. The deeper you discharge them the fewer the cycles. Swapping them out at higher voltage can substantially increase the number of cycles but of course you get less use per charge. High amp loads can put more wear on them as well. Basically it's a judgement call based on performance and when the cell no longer takes a full charge. If you are experiencing this behavior with two different sets then a quality charger would be my first purchase followed by new cells if the old ones don't come around. The Samsung or either of the LG's would be fine.

 

[Doots]

I would suggest you definitely upgrade your charger.

 

[OBDave]

Rule 1 of batteries/chargers - don't use anything with "fire in the name. A Nitecore i2 can be had for about $12, Efest LUC v4 for $20ish (their chargers are good, batteries not so much).

I used to run my batteries down to the point they wouldn't fire any more, and noticed a significant decline after only 100 charges or so. Then I learned to take them out and charge when your mod still indicates about 50 percent life - will try my best to do this going forward to get the 300-500 cycles I'd been expecting rather than the 150-200 I'll likely get.

You've got it right with the brand and models on the LG and Samsung batteries most folks around here consider best - plus they're usually cheaper than inferior cells like the Efest...

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

 

[NemesisVaper]

Most high drain cells available drop to 60% of rated capacity by the end of 300 cycles. A cycle us considered from 4.2v to 2.5v under load in most cases. Expect better cycle life the less you drain the cell before charging, because in that case you're not doing a full cycle.

Do you have a multi meter? A full charge is 4.2v so you can see if they're getting a full charge if you're able to measure them.

If it were me I too would junk that charger and get a Nitecore or LUC.

Your cells will be constantly degrading over time with each cycle and it can be hard to see at first until the drop is enough. Look after them and they do last a long time. They're also extremely cheap, so, while I'm very safe l don't worry much about keeping them alive as long as possible. I adhere to the amp limit, don't under discharge and just use them and enjoy them.

Definitely investigate a bit more, borrow a meter from a friend/work etc if you don't have one.

 

[jambi]

Resurrecting this zombie thread because I have a question related to charging amps and maybe feedback will come.

I have 12 pairs (24 total) Sony/Murata VTC6 batteries in rotation. My oldest are well over two years old (my starting dates rubbed off them ) and have been in constant, heavy use for I'm sure 300+ charge cycles. My 8 newest are 'Murata' labeled and were put into service today, while I'm rotating out my 'oldest' looking 4 pairs.

I've never had a Sony battery fail on me. Yellow Samsungs are junk. I had 2 pairs of those and 2 of them popped while charging, so I threw the other two away. Brown HGs are also junk. I invested in 4 pairs of those and they started dying off after 3 months, so I gave them away. This was a long time ago, maybe those are better batteries now, but they failed me.

I vape at 70 to 80 watts on regulated 2x18650 devices. All my devices have a 3.20v cutoff. None of my batteries have ever drained below that. My batteries are married for life. If one dies I toss them both. I've avoided 3x18650 devices even though I wanted to play with them because I don't want to have to remarry my pairs.

On the batteries I'm retiring, the only performance degradation I've noticed is they discharge faster than they used to, but that's to be expected. They still hold full charge and run down to 3.20 without performance issues, they just do so faster than the fresh sets.

My chargers until now have been a trusty, now ancient LUC V4 and Nitecore I2. I've always charged at 0.5 amps, because I was of the understanding that batteries last longer the slower you charge them. I recently got an XTAR VC4S, which doesn't allow me to manually set charge rate. The lowest I can charge is one amp, and I can only achieve that by keeping all four bays full. If I put only two batteries in the XTAR, it auto-charges at 2 amps. Sucks (also sucks that it's so damned difficult to remove batteries from the middle bays, but that's a gripe for another thread).

My question is, does charging at 1 amp vs 0.5 amps appreciably reduce the life of 18650 batteries?

 

[Bigrick]

I also have a trusty Luc v4. I bought it off let go for $6. This was 3 years ago and was the best $6 I have ever spent. So it lives on 1 amp charging. I also have a set of 3 25R's that are married and only used in my Rx Gen 3 - 300 that are also about 3 years old. I have just recently noticed a decrease in performance. Not severe but they do not last quite as long. It seems like it only takes about 90 minutes to charge. I do however always charge at 1 amp and have not noticed any battery issues due to doing so. Have a great day. Peace and love to all.
Rick

 

[gsmit1]

trusty Luc v4

I had en Efest charger for about a year that I wound up giving away and it was a perfectly unspectacular, perfectly good charger. Did what it was supposed to do. I've gotten more advanced ones since then, but I'd definitely recommend Efest for a basic solid low cost charger. Not their batteries though. Hit or miss.

 

[gsmit1]

My question is, does charging at 1 amp vs 0.5 amps appreciably reduce the life of 18650 batteries?

Not enough to worry about. If you don't need em in a hurry charge at .5. Can't hurt and might squeeze a hair more life out of em. If you need em sooner, charge at 1 amp. In the best case scenario it's not like you'll get an extra year out of em or something at .5 over 1 amp charging.

Most 18650s (that we use) are rated for 1.5 amp charging anyway I think. Going over that will make a much bigger difference than .5 to an amp will.

 

[Bigrick]

I had en Efest charger for about a year that I wound up giving away and it was a perfectly unspectacular, perfectly good charger. Did what it was supposed to do. I've gotten more advanced ones since then, but I'd definitely recommend Efest for a basic solid low cost charger. Not their batteries though. Hit or miss.

Yep that's the one. Charges 20700's is it's biggest asset.

 

[Bigrick]

I got a bnib Golisi s4. I am leary about using it. It was a prize. Btw also got 2 batteries as well. Golisi claims their batteries will last some thing like 1000 cycles with their technology

 

[gsmit1]

Yep that's the one. Charges 20700's is it's biggest asset.

Mine was THIS one. I only had 18650s at the time. Worked great.

I eventually needed to move up and wanted to be able to set charging current so I got an OPUS BT-C3100. Served me well for 2 and half years and still does.

Recently I got one of THESE. That's a monster.

​

 

[Carambrda]

After 9:45 in this vid is where he talks about slower charging vs faster aging:

Here's another vid he made about the effects of 2A charging:

His take on when we should replace a battery is after 12:43 in this recorded live stream:

On my Nitecore UMS4 the charging rate can be adjusted in small (100mA) increments from 300mA on up to 2A, and, this can be done separately on each bay. And it runs at a much cooler temperature compared to all the older models from Nitecore. It just needs a USB QuickCharge 2.0 compatible wall adapter piece from a reputable brand like Anker or Aukey, but you can also use a newer QuickCharge 3.0 compatible one because the version number is downward compatible. I use one that supports version 3.0 by Anker and is rated for 18 watts (no DP nor multi-port, just the regular AI model of it that has a green LED above the port). The UMS4 charger can handle up to 3A in total so that's all four bays summed together, for example 2×800mA (bay 1 and 3) + 2×700mA (bay 2 and 4) or the other way around, etc.. The charger keeps restarting itself regularly if you try to go above the 3A maximum total. To help save the micro USB port, I just leave the USB cable attached to my UMS4 as much as possible, and I carefully avoid both accidental bumping the connector and brutal pulling of the cable. And gently plug it in.

Nitecore chargers like the UM2, UM4, UMS2 and UMS4 didn't receive a better than average rating on the Lygte.dk review website. But the guy is just a noob, and he never even said a single word about why he thinks the ratings he gave are justified... IMO the UMS4 is a noticeably better charger than ANY of the similarly priced chargers out there. And BTW, I also own the much raved about SkyRC MC3000 that was thrice the cost, and that rarely gets used, simply because it isn't as convenient to use.

 

[Carambrda]

Golisi claims their batteries will last some thing like 1000 cycles with their technology

????????

 

[gsmit1]

But the guy is just a noob

Noob? Come on now. I saw in a conversation on Reddit that even Mooch specifically recommended his reviews my friend.

I also own the much raved about SkyRC MC3000 that was thrice the cost, and that rarely gets used, simply because it isn't as convenient to use.

I would say it's inconvenient to learn. (It definitely ain't for everybody) Once it's setup and you're acquainted with how it works, it is only mildly less convenient than a drop and go simple charger.

I set up some charging routines on my phone last night. Took a couple minutes and you can save them for future use so you only have to do it once. Of course you do have to know what that stuff means in there, which I know you do. I stick the batteries in, wait 5 seconds for it to do it's analysis, choose the charging profile I want from my phone and tap start.

That's less convenient than a drop and go charger, but I love the accuracy and control it gives me. Or you can just use "dummy mode" and drop and go like any other charger, except with a lot less control than the other modes, but with all the accuracy. You do have the extra step of pressing the enter button even in dummy mode.

As is always the case, I'm not picking a fight for the sake of it, nor am I impugning your knowledge, but nobody can be right about everything all the time

 

[Carambrda]

Noob? Come on now. I saw in a conversation on Reddit that even Mooch specifically recommended his reviews my friend.


I would say it's inconvenient to learn. (It definitely ain't for everybody) Once it's setup and you're acquainted with how it works, it is only mildly less convenient than a drop and go simple charger.

I set up some charging routines on my phone last night. Took a couple minutes and you can save them for future use so you only have to do it once. Of course you do have to know what that stuff means in there, which I know you do. I stick the batteries in, wait 5 seconds for it to do it's analysis, choose the charging profile I want from my phone and tap start.

That's less convenient than a drop and go charger, but I love the accuracy and control it gives me. Or you can just use "dummy mode" and drop and go like any other charger, except with a lot less control than the other modes, but with all the accuracy. You do have the extra step of pressing the enter button even in dummy mode.

As is always the case, I'm not picking a fight for the sake of it, nor am I impugning your knowledge, but nobody can be right about everything all the time

Mooch never made it a secret the fact that Mooch doesn't know at all much about commercial chargers, and doesn't have enough time and resources to do a lot of serious charger testing. According to what Mooch has said, publicly on YouTube that you can still watch for yourself just in case you don't believe, Mooch uses an expensive laboratory style power supply instead, and uses the SkyRC MC3000─that he kept confusing with the XTAR Dragon during several of his Power Hour live stream sessions BTW─just for charging LiFePO4 cells, nothing more. Mooch also had no idea that the newer models from Nitecore (i.e., the UM2, UM4, UMS2, and UMS4) don't use an internal power supply. In fact the guy who pointed that out to Mooch was, as you probably could have guessed, me.

But any review that fails to include even just a single word of why a charger is rated "good" as opposed to is rated "excellent" is not a review in my book. Rather, it's just a poor attempt at being a shill (at least that's how it comes off if you can be honest), and to become a bit "famous" on a few battery related forums/subforums, where there are minions like on ecf. The most obvious reason why he [HKJ at Lygte-info.dk] is just a noob, though, is that he makes noob mistakes like not knowing the simple fact that his temperature measurements of the outside surface of the chargers he has "tested" all are just utter fantasy. Had they been somewhat accurate, you would actually burn the skin of your hand touching an older Nitecore charger. The reality is that everyone who owns, or who has owned, an older Nitecore charger already knows that they tend to run fairly warm, but still a very far stretch away from burning hot. I also own both the Nitecore D4 (2016 version) and the Nitecore NEW i4 so I'm only telling you exactly how it is, no unicorns and no pixi dust added. Whereas the UMS4 runs barely even lukewarm charging 4 batteries at the fastest charging speed that the UMS4 can charge them at. Not a single word was mentioned in his so-called "review" about that, either. Sorry, but that's what I call blatant foolishness, if I may be so bold to say so Sir.

Finally, as for why I find my UMS4 lots more convenient to use than my MC3000. The USB wall adapter that I'm pairing with my UMS4 doesn't take up any desk space, very unlike the external power supply of the MC3000, and, the UMS4 takes up less desk space than the MC3000 already to begin with. Not that this is always a problem to me, but... for reasons of safety, you have to stay within line of sight of your charger (and awake)─and be able to reach your charger in the possible event that something goes wrong─till all charging is finished so, it means you have to take the charger with you when you decide to move to the next room, and find a suitable non flammable surface to put it on. The difference in weight between these two different chargers alone is reason enough to make my conclusion valid. But that's not where the story ends, as the story gets even better after you also factor in that the bays on the MC3000 are so deep, I can't even put an 18650 in there properly without bumping/rubbing the battery against the inside of of the bay. I mean, reaching down there actually feels like I'm lacking a fucking uspide down periscope. By comparison, on the UMS4 the length of the bays in cohort with the smoothly sliding brackets are making it a breeze, even with a 20700 or 21700. Just my 2 Eurocents.

 

[gsmit1]

Just my 2 Eurocents.

Make it 4

 

[Carambrda]

Make it 4

If your goal is to get twenty Dutch persons to go inside a Citroën 2CV at once, you only need to throw 2 Eurocents into it. Making it 4 just causes the car to splode, which is a big problem because currently here in Belgium due to the coronavirus it is forbidden to set off fireworks.

 

[Bigrick]

????????

I was incorrect Golisi states that their 26s 18650's are good for 800 cycles. Pretty farfetched I know. it is an okay battery and does well in my series mech. Rated at 35 cdr ( I know ) and 2600 mah. They behave similar to vct5a's in performance. They are okay but they were a contest, I only BUY quality brand cells.

 

[Carambrda]

I was incorrect Golisi states that their 26s 18650's are good for 800 cycles. Pretty farfetched I know. it is an okay battery and does well in my series mech. Rated at 35 cdr ( I know ) and 2600 mah. They behave similar to vct5a's in performance. They are okay but they were a contest, I only BUY quality brand cells.

The Golisi S26 has "CDR: 25A / MAX: 35A" printed on its wrap. So to be fair, Golisi didn't rate it at 35A CDR, but "max" ratings, or pulse ratings are useless so, because they are targeting vapers with their marketing campaigns, what they are factually doing is they're still playing with our safety by trying mislead those who don't know which one of both these numbers is the correct one to use for calculating battery safety for vaping. I.e., just because the CDR number that they put on the wrap is still accurate, doesn't also mean they're not misleading anyone. And neither does the fact that other rewrap companies are doing it too, when the reality is that they could always decide to just take the useless number off, as doing that would be called leading by example, by putting the safety always first. That is, even, though you are correct with your statements, that their S26 isn't a bad battery, and that, despite that, people shouldn't buy it if, for example, they can get a genuine Sony/Murata VTC5A, which gives slightly better performance, especially on a mech, and can get it for less money. Or, for another example, if they can get a genuine Molicel P26A for less money, as that one ALSO outperforms the Golisi S26. Either way, I just wanted to lay this out in the open field.

As for "quality brand cells", I can see what you mean about that, but, peope should also realise, that this tends to be a bit of a laden term. Rewraps are not rejects, and, the vast majority of them either are manufactured by the "Big Four" (Sony/Murata, LG, Samsung, Panasonic/Sanyo) or are manufactured by E-One Moli Energy Corp. ("Molicel"). So if that's the case, then the quality is still the same (aside from differences typically small, that are caused by cells having been subjected to different storage conditions─for better, or worse─and sometimes maybe also having different grades... if they have been "cherry picked"). They are using the same exact battery under the wrap, albeit a rewrap company may change the battery under the wrap at any time, and may change it in such a particular way that may be hard for us to detect visible change. And they often price gauge, also in addition to often playing the numbers game with what numbers they print on the wrap. The only reason why I have bought some certain, specific, rewraps was because the OEM version wasn't available to me at the time when I bought them, and they offered better performance for how I intended to use batteries, when compared to the best performing choice of OEM batteries available to me at the time.

Several of these rewrap choices are still available to me right now, but I would no longer buy them if I needed to buy new batteries. That's just because they have been dethroned some time ago and/or the OEM version is available to me now so they are obsolete in terms of new buying decisions─but not in terms of still continuing to use them until their cycle life will finally run out, as the quality still isn't bad.

 

[gbalkam]

Mooch never made it a secret the fact that Mooch doesn't know at all much about commercial chargers, and doesn't have enough time and resources to do a lot of serious charger testing. According to what Mooch has said, publicly on YouTube that you can still watch for yourself just in case you don't believe, Mooch uses an expensive laboratory style power supply instead, and uses the SkyRC MC3000─that he kept confusing with the XTAR Dragon during several of his Power Hour live stream sessions BTW─just for charging LiFePO4 cells, nothing more. Mooch also had no idea that the newer models from Nitecore (i.e., the UM2, UM4, UMS2, and UMS4) don't use an internal power supply. In fact the guy who pointed that out to Mooch was, as you probably could have guessed, me.

But any review that fails to include even just a single word of why a charger is rated "good" as opposed to is rated "excellent" is not a review in my book. Rather, it's just a poor attempt at being a shill (at least that's how it comes off if you can be honest), and to become a bit "famous" on a few battery related forums/subforums, where there are minions like on ecf. The most obvious reason why he [HKJ at Lygte-info.dk] is just a noob, though, is that he makes noob mistakes like not knowing the simple fact that his temperature measurements of the outside surface of the chargers he has "tested" all are just utter fantasy. Had they been somewhat accurate, you would actually burn the skin of your hand touching an older Nitecore charger. The reality is that everyone who owns, or who has owned, an older Nitecore charger already knows that they tend to run fairly warm, but still a very far stretch away from burning hot. I also own both the Nitecore D4 (2016 version) and the Nitecore NEW i4 so I'm only telling you exactly how it is, no unicorns and no pixi dust added. Whereas the UMS4 runs barely even lukewarm charging 4 batteries at the fastest charging speed that the UMS4 can charge them at. Not a single word was mentioned in his so-called "review" about that, either. Sorry, but that's what I call blatant foolishness, if I may be so bold to say so Sir.

Finally, as for why I find my UMS4 lots more convenient to use than my MC3000. The USB wall adapter that I'm pairing with my UMS4 doesn't take up any desk space, very unlike the external power supply of the MC3000, and, the UMS4 takes up less desk space than the MC3000 already to begin with. Not that this is always a problem to me, but... for reasons of safety, you have to stay within line of sight of your charger (and awake)─and be able to reach your charger in the possible event that something goes wrong─till all charging is finished so, it means you have to take the charger with you when you decide to move to the next room, and find a suitable non flammable surface to put it on. The difference in weight between these two different chargers alone is reason enough to make my conclusion valid. But that's not where the story ends, as the story gets even better after you also factor in that the bays on the MC3000 are so deep, I can't even put an 18650 in there properly without bumping/rubbing the battery against the inside of of the bay. I mean, reaching down there actually feels like I'm lacking a fucking uspide down periscope. By comparison, on the UMS4 the length of the bays in cohort with the smoothly sliding brackets are making it a breeze, even with a 20700 or 21700. Just my 2 Eurocents.

Do the 20700 or 21700 fit in an 18650 mod?

 

[Lady Sarah]

Do the 20700 or 21700 fit in an 18650 mod?

Are you joking? Or are you actually asking a serious question? Have you ever seen these batteries? There is no way that is going to happen without reinventing the mod like @gadget! Does

 

[Carambrda]

Are you joking? Or are you actually asking a serious question? Have you ever seen these batteries? There is no way that is going to happen without reinventing the mod like @gadget! Does

Yes and no. There exists at least one example of a brand, that @gadget! is a little bit (you know... just a tiny little bit...) familiar with, and that doesn't necessarily always need to be reinvented, at least not if you are referring to the process of shaving off a layer of metal from the inside of the tube in order to enlarge its inner diameter. Certain specific 18650 tube mechs from Purge Mods use a separate so-called "male tube" between the actual mod and the button. These specific mods are: Skull, Maelstrom, Silencer, See No Evil, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, Suicide King, Serenity, and Karma. These can accept a 20700 battery after you replace their 18650 compatible male tube with a 20700 compatible one, as these male tubes are all interchangeable. A 20700 compatible male tube can either be bought separately as an authentic, optional accessory or be borrowed from one of those specific 20700 mods that use one. So, with these, it also is possible to do the opposite, i.e. put an 18650 compatible male tube inside a 20700 mod. But the male tube from my Purge Mods Skull & Shield, which is a 21700 mod, doesn't fit inside any of these mods. That's because the 21700 compatible male tube is slightly bigger in (outer) diameter.

On a side note, I wouldn't recommend to anyone to try and enlarge a 20700 compatible male tube. The metal in the top part of these male tubes is already fairly thin, and, making it even thinner just doesn't seem like it would be a good idea. When the first 21700 tube mech mods came out, soon ppl started acting like 20700 mods were all of a sudden no longer relevant. That's a real shame, as the Sanyo NCR2070C battery is still a very awesome battery to be using in a mech. Personally, I, think that ruling out any and all 20700 mech mods is very often more a result from narrow-mindedness than it is about everything else. It's that same kind of poor attitude that's been killing all things vaping. I'm perfectly okay with ppl wanting to show off gear. But this doesn't also mean that they have to exaggerate, or that they always have to. Sorry if I'm getting a bit carried away here. But I would shake my head less often if more ppl decided to build/buy better coils as opposed to necessarily always try to reinvent performance by becoming what I like to call just another fucking 21700 apostle. Sorry again, for my doing it on purpose.

 

[gadget!]

Yes and no. There exists at least one example of a brand, that @gadget! is a little bit (you know... just a tiny little bit...) familiar with, and that doesn't necessarily always need to be reinvented, at least not if you are referring to the process of shaving off a layer of metal from the inside of the tube in order to enlarge its inner diameter. Certain specific 18650 tube mechs from Purge Mods use a separate so-called "male tube" between the actual mod and the button. These specific mods are: Skull, Maelstrom, Silencer, See No Evil, Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, Suicide King, Serenity, and Karma. These can accept a 20700 battery after you replace their 18650 compatible male tube with a 20700 compatible one, as these male tubes are all interchangeable. A 20700 compatible male tube can either be bought separately as an authentic, optional accessory or be borrowed from one of those specific 20700 mods that use one. So, with these, it also is possible to do the opposite, i.e. put an 18650 compatible male tube inside a 20700 mod. But the male tube from my Purge Mods Skull & Shield, which is a 21700 mod, doesn't fit inside any of these mods. That's because the 21700 compatible male tube is slightly bigger in (outer) diameter.

On a side note, I wouldn't recommend to anyone to try and enlarge a 20700 compatible male tube. The metal in the top part of these male tubes is already fairly thin, and, making it even thinner just doesn't seem like it would be a good idea. When the first 21700 tube mech mods came out, soon ppl started acting like 20700 mods were all of a sudden no longer relevant. That's a real shame, as the Sanyo NCR2070C battery is still a very awesome battery to be using in a mech. Personally, I, think that ruling out any and all 20700 mech mods is very often more a result from narrow-mindedness than it is about everything else. It's that same kind of poor attitude that's been killing all things vaping. I'm perfectly okay with ppl wanting to show off gear. But this doesn't also mean that they have to exaggerate, or that they always have to. Sorry if I'm getting a bit carried away here. But I would shake my head less often if more ppl decided to build/buy better coils as opposed to necessarily always try to reinvent performance by becoming what I like to call just another fucking 21700 apostle. Sorry again, for my doing it on purpose.

I'm so glad you gave us your opinion, it's valued so much here.

Sent from a Galaxy far far away

 

[Carambrda]

I'm so glad you gave us your opinion, it's valued so much here.

Sent from a Galaxy far far away

lol

 

[gbalkam]

Are you joking? Or are you actually asking a serious question? Have you ever seen these batteries? There is no way that is going to happen without reinventing the mod like @gadget! Does

Actually, I know for a fact they will not fit, but was wondering why the hell they were mentioned in a post about 18650 batteries.

 

[gsmit1]

the Sanyo NCR2070C battery is still a very awesome battery to be using in a mech.

The only cell I run in my XXXs

 

[Carambrda]

The only cell I run in my XXXs

You debunk my theory, that I am the only one here who knows what's good. The Sanyo NCR20700A is the only 30A 20700 that I never bought, as that one AFAIK never became available at NKON in The Netherlands, which is where I prefer to get all my batteries from. 1/ it's less than 60 miles from where I live so the shipping is reasonably fast and cheap, 2/ they package the batteries with a fuck ton of clingwrap so no moist can start to accumulate under the battery wraps if you let the batteries slowly get to room temperature before you unpack them when the weather is cold outside, 3/ in my own personal experience their customer service leaves nothing to be desired, 4/ they are on Mooch's list of recommended battery vendors, 5/ their battery prices are loads cheaper than Akkuteile.de in Germany, 6/ they tend to restock frequently on specific batteries I want, 7/ they usually can ship all the various batteries at once so that I only need to receive one package instead of having to wait for multiple packages to arrive one by one over the course of several days or weeks.

Before I switched to the Sanyo NCR2070C, I was using the Vapcell Gold with bright white logo and text 20700, which is a 30A battery also, and that hits almost equally as hard as the Sanyo NCR20700A according to Mooch's test results. Vapcell also rewraps the latter battery as their Vapcell Gold with black logo and text 20700, but AFAIK this rewrap was also never available around where I live. There also exists a Vapcell Gold with pink-ish off-white logo and text, that was preliminarily estimated at only 20A-25A by Mooch, it has a bit less mAh also in addition to this, but the good news is that it still also hits a lot harder than the 5-legged Molicel 20700A that was once rewrapped by iJoy during those days when 20700 mod choices were still extremely limited, i.e., the first half of 2017. The pink-ish off-white can be easily confused with the aforementioned bright white logo and text if you aren't yet aware of this difference. I still use these older batteries on occasion, as they hit less hard than the Sanyo NCR2070C so they can still be useful to tame a coil build that's just a tad too hot.

 

[Supernoob]

300,000 puffs.