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I have no idea what batteries i need

Ok, so I'm having a little bit of an issue. I very recently started thinking of building and all the payoffs but its a little daunting tbh, especially with the possibility of my vape turning into a hand grenade.

The setup is on an unregulated device and it's only going to have one coil, with it being .3 or .35 ohms. Can anyone tell me what batteries would be safe with it? (the batteries are parallel) Any and all recommendations are needed!
 
honestly, I just need build suggestions for an unregulated parallel box mod. something that chucks and isn't too complicated.
 

lucifah

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Hi. So you're just starting with rebuildables and want to do that on a parallel mech mod, but aren't yet familiar with the batteries available? I'd very strongly encourage you to watch Battery Mooch's videos, which cover all the basics and safety considerations better than anybody else. He has achieved kind of guru status for all things batteries and their safe use.

Then, I'd start building on a regulated device. Can be a cheap single battery mod. You'll need one anyway (or use a coilmaster tab or the like), and if it's just to measure the actual resistance of your builds. It protects you from a lot of beginner errors, such as shorting out coil and top cap due to long legs, builds which touch the deck, all of which could cause your batteries to do things you definitely don't want them to do!

Also have a look at Steam Engine for all sorts of helpful calculators.

Be safe. We don't need more headlines.
 

The Cromwell

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If you do not know ohms law and figuring battery current from coil resistance you do not need to be using a mech.
Watch some of Mooch's videos and learn.

And yes ALL builds to be used on a mech need to be tested with an ohmmeter or trusted regulated mod. And test resistance with cap on just in case the coil or leg end touches the cap.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCePHh3NMvu3rW2LFJeOWo-Q/playlists
 
If you do not know ohms law and figuring battery current from coil resistance you do not need to be using a mech.
Watch some of Mooch's videos and learn.

And yes ALL builds to be used on a mech need to be tested with an ohmmeter or trusted regulated mod. And test resistance with cap on just in case the coil or leg end touches the cap.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCePHh3NMvu3rW2LFJeOWo-Q/playlists
I was planning on getting pre-built coils and just figuring out what batteries i need but ill definitely do my own research regarding ohms law and such

thanks for the info
 

zaptear

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I was planning on getting pre-built coils and just figuring out what batteries i need but ill definitely do my own research regarding ohms law and such

thanks for the info

This is what u need to know

To get the amps ur coil will call for
The math is
4.2 divided by the ohms of ur coil

Let’s say u are using a .15 ohm coil

4.2/.15= 28 amps
Samsung 20s are 30amp cells so if u have them ur fine

Vtc5a are 25 CDR




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The Cromwell

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And if you buy a prebuilt .3 coil once it is installed and heated a bit it will not be .3 unless you are very lucky.
ALWAYS check atty resistance when using on a mech.
Take care and enjoy vaping.
Some of it just take more knowledge than other parts.
 

The Cromwell

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This is what u need to know

To get the amps ur coil will call for
The math is
4.2 divided by the ohms of ur coil

Let’s say u are using a .15 ohm coil

4.2/.15= 28 amps
Samsung 20s are 30amp cells so if u have them ur fine

Vtc5a are 25 CDR




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yep but I thought he said a parallel mech?
 
Ohh and btw it is hard to go wrong go wrong with VTC5A cell from a trusted source like Illumn.com or others that are on Mooch's blog.
Unless you are going crazy low ohms then you need a true 30 amp CDR rated cell which you can find on Moochs blog.


https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blogs/mooch.256958/
i already have the mech mod and everything done with it i just need the batteries and looking at ohms law it seems that two of the batteries you just mentioned are fine at .3 ohms thanks again for the info
 

MyMagicMist

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And if you buy a prebuilt .3 coil once it is installed and heated a bit it will not be .3 unless you are very lucky.

Yep, lots of my .3 builds fluctuate from .3 to .28 -.33 after firing and a bit of use. It takes some experience by doing to get your fluctuation down to around 0.0.2 +/-. I can get there but often am around 0.04 +/- depending on the build and its quality.

What is need understood here is that yes, firing and use cause some fluctuation in your coils. To a degree that's acceptable and fine. If you're having coils fluctuate wildly though more than a whole point or two, better to remove that build and try another. If you're in the 0.01 range and about 0.05 +/- you're in a "sweet spot" or "golden" area of a build. You're doing real well in building then.
 

zaptear

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Parallel is 4.2v but isn't 4.2v just a safety margin? I remember Mooch saying experienced users can use 3.7v because of voltage drop.

It’s still 4.2 volts urs ur choice if u won’t to use more amps being parallel the cells splitting the amps you can push a bit harder just don’t got crazy


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The Cromwell

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Parallel is 4.2v but isn't 4.2v just a safety margin? I remember Mooch saying experienced users can use 3.7v because of voltage drop.
3.7 is an average votlage sag output voltage from most Li cells.
However that drop varies according to the cell and the load on the cell and state of charge.
3.8 or so is more reasonable for a VTC5A and more like 3.6 for a 25R under the same load assuming both batteries are fully charged.
 

zaptear

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3.7 is an average votlage sag output voltage from most Li cells.
However that drop varies according to the cell and the load on the cell and state of charge.
3.8 or so is more reasonable for a VTC5A and more like 3.6 for a 25R under the same load assuming both batteries are fully charged.

Shod not really go off sag volts but that’s your choice


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zaptear

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3.7 is an average votlage sag output voltage from most Li cells.
However that drop varies according to the cell and the load on the cell and state of charge.
3.8 or so is more reasonable for a VTC5A and more like 3.6 for a 25R under the same load assuming both batteries are fully charged.

A parallel shod not sag that low nom at 4.1-4.13 on my parallels I have tested


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The Cromwell

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A parallel shod not sag that low nom at 4.1-4.13 on my parallels I have tested


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I was speaking of individual cells in this case.
Per Mooch's graph a fully charged VTC5a will drop to 3.9 at 10 amps draw.

One thing to consider in a parallel mod is that if one battery loses connection the other battery is carrying the full load.
 
Last edited:

Ralph_K

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Member For 4 Years
It was a Mooch youtube video. I think he said 3.7 but could be 3.8 but he was talking about a single battery tubed mech.
 

The Cromwell

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It was a Mooch youtube video. I think he said 3.7 but could be 3.8 but he was talking about a single battery tubed mech.
For a good fully charged cell 3.7 is pretty typical output voltage for a cell operating at near it's CDR.

many using mechs use 4.2 to calculate their actual wattage on a mech.
They think they are running maybe 110 W when in reality they are running maybe 85-90 due to cell voltage sag under load.
 

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