You need to know what kind of current drain is being put on your battery AND the limits of said battery.
After battery sag (the internal voltage of the cell will sag when in use, the more it's pushed, the harder it sags. Anything over 100W on a single 18650 is going to push you down to around 3V, even fully charged at 4.2V.) and also voltage drop which is voltage lost in transit due to the mod itself.
Steam engine is one tool of many, ohm's law is a full equation and I believe you should be forced to learn it if you're going to build anything, the batteries you put in your mods aren't toys. They CAN cause harm if pushed hard enough and the last thing we need is another 'exploding mod' news story.
The thicker the wire (AKA the more surface area), the less wraps, the lower the resistance. We use resistance wire as when current flows through it, the resistance causes it to heat. The more power, the more heat. So MORE wraps and thinner wires would yield a higher resistance.
When you're building on an unregulated mod you need to take several variables into account. If you want MORE power, thicker wires or specialty wire (twisted, clapton, staple, etc.) are a good choice. You can also parallel wire on your bit when wrapping to cut your resistance down by around 50%.
Also, DON'T use shit batteries. If your battery isn't made by LG, Sony, Panasonic or Samsung (if an 18650) it's likely a rewrapped B/C-bin cell with exaggerated amp limits. The HIGHEST continuous rating on ANY battery 18650 wise is around 30A. The LG HG2 is the best, having a cont. rating of around 33A.
Most batteries in the 18650 range have a rating of 15-20A continuous, 30-40A pulse. Keep that in mind.